ON O
THE O
VIA O
ÆMILIA O
The O
Via O
Æmilia B-LOC
of I-LOC
antiquity O
is O
a O
wonder O
to O
day O
or O
would O
be O
if O
it O
were O
kept O
in O
a O
little O
better O
repair. O
As O
it O
is O
it O
is O
as O
good O
a O
road O
as O
any O
"good O
road" O
in O
Italy O
and B-LOC
straight O
as O
an O
arrow O
as O
it O
runs O
boldly O
from O
the O
Adriatic O
at B-LOC
Rimini I-LOC
to B-LOC
Piacenza I-LOC
through O
the O
ancient O
States O
of O
Bologna O
Modena B-LOC
and O
Parma. B-LOC
No O
automobilist B-LOC
who O
ever O
rolls O
off O
its O
length O
of O
262 O
kilometres O
will O
class O
it O
as O
inferior O
to O
any O
other O
Italian O
road O
of B-LOC
its O
class. O
The O
following O
categorical O
mention O
of O
the O
cities O
and O
towns O
on O
this O
great O
Roman O
way O
presents O
their O
varied O
charms O
in O
a O
sufficient O
number O
surely O
to O
make O
the O
hurried O
north O
or O
southbound O
traveller O
think O
it O
worth O
while O
to O
zigzag O
about O
a O
bit O
in O
going O
from O
Florence O
to O
Venice O
in B-LOC
order O
to B-LOC
visit O
them O
all. O
The O
first O
place O
of O
note O
after O
leaving O
Rimini O
is O
Cesana O
"She B-LOC
whose O
flank B-LOC
is O
washed O
by O
Savio's O
wave O
" O
Dante O
wrote. B-PER
Cesana O
is B-PER
full O
of O
reminders O
of O
the O
profligate O
Cæsar O
Borgia. O
The O
library O
of B-PER
Cesana I-PER
was O
famous O
in O
mediæval B-LOC
times O
and O
held O
its O
head O
high O
among O
the O
city's O
other O
glories. O
Above O
all O
was O
the O
famous O
Rocca O
of O
Cesana O
a O
fortress O
château B-LOC
of O
great O
strength O
in O
days O
when O
feudal O
lords O
needed O
a O
warren O
into O
which O
they O
might O
run O
and O
hide O
at O
every O
league. O
The O
Palazzo O
Publico O
is O
a O
square B-LOC
sturdy I-LOC
none I-LOC
too O
lovely O
building O
with O
some O
notable O
pictures O
within O
and O
a O
statue O
of O
Pius O
VII O
who O
was O
a O
native O
of B-PER
the I-PER
place. O
In O
the O
stirring O
times O
of O
the O
pontificate O
of O
Gregorius O
XI O
the O
Avignon O
Pope O
sent O
a O
cut O
throat O
Cardinal B-PER
into O
Italy O
at O
the O
head O
of O
a O
band O
of B-LOC
soldiery I-LOC
who O
entered O
and O
pillaged O
Cesana O
in O
1377. O
His O
cry O
at O
the B-LOC
head I-LOC
of O
his O
troops O
was O
ever O
"Blood! O
more O
blood! O
Kill! O
Kill! O
Kill!" O
A O
nice O
sort O
of O
a O
man O
for O
a O
Cardinal O
Prince O
of O
the O
Church! O
The O
highroad O
between O
Cesana O
and O
Rimini O
passes O
through O
the B-LOC
valley O
of B-LOC
the O
Rubicon. O
Mule O
tracks O
sloping O
hills O
and O
olive O
groves O
are O
the O
chief O
characteristics O
of O
this O
vale O
the O
spot O
where O
Cæsar O
apocryphally O
crossed O
the O
Rubicon. O
Historians O
up O
to O
Montesquieu's O
time O
seemed O
to O
take O
it B-LOC
for I-LOC
granted I-LOC
but O
latterly O
it O
has O
been O
denied. O
Forli O
and O
Imola O
were O
the O
principal O
towns B-LOC
of O
Romagna O
the O
patrimony O
of O
Catherine O
Sforza B-LOC
and O
Girolamo O
Riario O
nephew B-PER
of I-PER
Pope I-PER
Sixtus O
IV. B-PER
When I-PER
the I-PER
new O
married O
pair O
first O
came O
to O
their O
little O
State O
from O
Rome O
the O
Renaissance O
was O
at O
its O
height O
and O
the O
ambitious O
bride O
sought O
so O
far O
as O
possible O
to O
surround O
herself O
with O
its O
splendours. O
Their O
reign O
in O
the O
east O
was O
not O
happy; O
Girolamo O
proved O
a O
tyrant O
and O
was O
promptly O
assassinated B-PER
by O
his O
followers O
leaving O
Catherine O
and O
her O
five O
children O
completely O
in B-PER
the I-PER
power O
of O
his O
murderers O
who O
made O
her O
give O
up O
her O
claims O
to O
her O
little O
kingdom. O
She O
consented O
or O
pretended O
to O
consent. O
She O
conspired O
with O
the O
Governor O
of O
the O
fortress O
Tommaso O
Feo O
and O
appeared O
on O
its O
ramparts O
dressed O
as B-PER
a I-PER
warrior. O
She O
refused O
to O
surrender O
and O
when O
it O
was O
recalled O
that O
she O
had O
left O
her O
children O
behind O
as O
hostages O
she O
cruelly O
replied O
"In O
time O
I O
shall O
have O
others." O
Catherine O
Sforza O
was O
a O
bloodthirsty O
vixen O
surely. O
Forli B-PER
was I-PER
Catherine I-PER
Sforza's O
own O
city O
and O
her O
defence O
of O
it O
against B-PER
the I-PER
Borgias I-PER
was O
one O
of O
the O
celebrated O
sieges O
of O
history. O
She O
held O
out O
two O
years O
and O
then O
only O
gave O
in O
because O
she O
was O
betrayed. O
Her O
very O
reason O
of O
warring O
with O
the O
Borgias O
reflects O
greatly O
on O
her O
credit. O
She O
refused O
simply O
to O
allow O
her O
son O
to O
marry O
the O
aging O
Lucrezia; O
"not O
so O
much O
on O
account O
of O
her O
age O
" O
said O
Catherine B-PER
"as O
her O
morals." O
Princely O
marriages O
are O
often B-PER
carried I-PER
out O
on O
different O
lines O
to O
day. O
Almost O
within O
sight O
of O
Forli O
is O
Faënza O
a O
city O
which O
was O
under O
the O
domination O
of B-LOC
the O
Manfredi O
when O
Cæsar O
Borgia O
took O
it O
into O
his O
head O
to O
move O
against B-PER
it. O
A B-PER
young I-PER
prince I-PER
by O
the O
name O
of O
Astor O
III O
but O
eighteen O
years O
of O
age O
beloved O
by O
all O
for O
his B-PER
amiability I-PER
grace O
and O
youth O
held O
its O
future O
in O
his O
hands. O
When O
the O
key O
of O
Faënza O
Brisighella O
fell O
to O
the O
Borgia's O
captain O
of O
artillery O
in B-LOC
the O
early B-PER
days I-PER
of O
November O
in B-PER
1500 I-PER
the O
emperor O
like O
Cæsar O
himself O
came O
forward O
and O
took O
command. O
He O
offered O
life O
to O
the O
dwellers O
within O
the O
walls O
if O
they O
would O
surrender O
but O
they O
would O
have O
none O
of O
it O
for O
as O
the O
Borgia O
wrote O
in O
a O
letter O
to O
the O
Duc O
d'Urbino O
dated O
from O
"the O
pontifical O
camp O
before O
Faënza O
" O
a O
"dramatic B-PER
defence I-PER
was O
made O
by O
the O
citizens O
of O
the O
town." O
This O
"dramatic O
defence" O
was O
such O
that O
it O
compelled O
Borgia O
and O
his O
papal O
soldiers O
to O
go O
into O
winter O
quarters. O
The O
struggle O
was O
the O
longest O
that O
Borgia O
had O
yet O
undertaken O
in O
his O
campaigns O
and O
the O
women O
of O
Faënza O
as B-PER
did O
Catherine O
Sforza O
at O
Forli O
covered O
themselves O
with O
glory. O
A O
daughter O
of B-PER
a I-PER
soldier I-PER
of I-PER
the O
garrison B-LOC
Diamante O
Jovelli O
put O
herself O
at O
the O
head O
of O
a O
band O
of O
Amazons O
who O
took O
entire B-PER
charge I-PER
of O
the O
commissariat O
the O
handling O
of O
the O
munitions O
of O
war O
and O
served O
as O
sentinels O
repairing O
the O
walls O
even O
when O
breached O
rough O
work O
for O
women. O
"The O
women O
of O
Faënza O
have O
saved O
the O
honour O
of O
Italy O
" O
wrote O
Isabella O
d'Este O
in O
1501 O
to O
her O
husband O
the O
Duke O
of O
Mantua O
and O
Cæsar B-LOC
Borgia O
himself O
committed B-PER
himself O
to O
paper O
with O
the O
following O
words B-LOC
"Would O
that B-PER
I I-PER
had I-PER
an O
entire O
army O
of O
the O
women O
of O
Faënza." O
The O
city O
fell O
in O
due O
time O
and O
the O
crafty O
Cæsar O
honoured O
the O
gallant O
Manfredi O
"crowned O
with O
the O
laurels O
of O
valour O
and O
misfortune O
" O
by O
allowing O
him O
"a O
guard B-PER
of I-PER
honour O
and O
all O
his O
proper O
dignities." O
Later O
the O
Borgia O
repented O
of O
his O
generosity O
and O
sent O
the O
young O
and O
gallant O
prince O
to O
Rome O
and O
imprisoned B-PER
him O
in O
the O
Castle O
of O
Sant'Angelo O
for O
a O
year. O
Faënza O
is O
a O
very O
ancient B-LOC
town O
and O
less O
populous O
to O
day O
than O
it B-PER
was O
fifty O
years O
ago O
when O
also O
it O
was O
less O
populous O
than O
it O
was O
five O
hundred O
years O
ago. O
Imola O
the O
seventh O
place O
of O
importance O
on O
the O
Æmilian O
itinerary O
counting O
from O
Rimini O
was O
the O
ancient O
Forum O
Cornelii O
but O
by O
Charlemagne's O
time O
it O
had O
already O
become O
known O
by B-LOC
its O
present O
name. O
In O
the O
middle B-PER
ages O
Imola's O
geographical B-PER
position O
midway O
between O
Bologna O
and O
Romagna O
made O
it O
an O
important O
acquisition O
in O
the O
contests O
for O
power. O
It O
was O
successfully O
held O
by B-LOC
many I-LOC
different O
chiefs O
and O
was O
united O
to O
the O
States O
of O
the O
Church O
under O
Julius O
II. O
As O
one O
of O
the O
stations O
on O
the O
Æmilian O
Way O
it O
was O
a O
place B-LOC
of I-LOC
some I-LOC
importance; O
it O
is O
mentioned B-PER
by O
Cicero O
and O
by O
Martial O
"Si O
veneris O
unde B-LOC
requiret O
Æmiliæ O
dices O
de O
regione O
viæ. O
Si O
quibus O
in O
terris O
qua B-PER
simus O
in O
urbe O
rogabit O
Corneli O
referas O
me O
licet O
esse O
Foro." O
The O
fortress O
château O
of O
Imola O
was O
almost O
identical O
in O
form O
with O
that O
of O
Forli O
quadrilateral O
with O
four O
great O
towers O
at O
the O
angles O
and O
a O
crenelated B-LOC
battlement O
at O
the O
skyline. O
Cæsar O
Borgia O
brought B-LOC
this O
fortress O
to O
ignoble O
surrender O
in O
1499 O
but O
since O
the O
fortress O
was O
then O
quite O
independent O
of B-PER
the I-PER
city I-PER
he O
had O
still O
another O
task O
before O
him O
before O
the O
inhabitants O
actually O
came O
within O
his O
powers. O
A O
fortnight O
after O
the O
capture O
of O
the O
fortress O
the O
city O
itself O
fell. O
Imola O
was O
a O
part O
of O
the O
marriage O
dot O
of O
Catherine O
Sforza O
who O
confided O
its O
defence O
to O
Dionigi O
di O
Naldo O
while O
she O
busied O
herself O
at O
Forli O
where O
she O
reigned O
as O
widow B-PER
and I-PER
inheritor I-PER
of O
Riario O
Sforza. O
On O
towards O
Bologna B-PER
one I-PER
passes O
Castel O
San O
Pietro O
a O
thirteenth O
century O
fortified O
town O
still O
sleeping O
its O
dull B-PER
time I-PER
away I-PER
since O
no O
war O
or B-LOC
rumours I-LOC
of O
war O
give B-LOC
it O
concern. B-LOC
Quaderna O
even O
less O
progressive O
and O
important O
to O
day O
than O
its O
neighbour O
was O
the O
important O
station O
of O
Claternum O
in O
the O
days O
when O
traffic O
on O
the O
great O
Æmilian O
way O
was O
greater O
than O
now. O
Bologna's O
towers O
and O
domes O
loom O
large O
on O
the O
horizon O
as O
one O
draws O
up O
on O
this O
great O
capital O
from O
any O
direction. O
Bologna O
because O
of O
its O
easy O
access O
is O
one O
of O
the O
popular O
tourist O
points O
of O
Italy O
and O
for O
that O
reason O
it O
is O
omitted O
from O
nobody's O
itinerary O
though O
most O
hurried O
travellers O
remember O
the O
mortadella O
better O
than B-LOC
they O
do O
the O
cathedral O
which O
in O
truth O
is O
nothing O
very O
fine O
so O
far O
as O
architectural O
masterpieces O
go. O
The O
roads O
in O
and O
out O
of O
Bologna O
are O
quite O
the O
best O
to O
be O
found O
neighbouring O
upon O
a O
large O
city O
in O
Italy. O
They O
shall O
not O
be O
described O
further O
the O
mere O
statement O
that O
this O
is O
so O
should O
be O
taken O
as O
sufficient O
praise. O
The O
streets O
within B-LOC
the O
gates O
too O
though O
paved O
are O
splendidly O
straight O
and O
smooth O
though O
encumbered O
at O
one O
or O
two O
awkward O
corners O
with O
tram O
tracks. O
The O
visitor O
to O
Bologna O
may O
take O
his O
ease O
at O
the O
Hotel O
Brun O
quite O
the O
most O
distinguished O
hotel O
in O
all O
Italy O
not O
even O
excepting O
Daniellis O
or O
the O
Grand O
at B-LOC
Venice I-LOC
each O
of O
them O
a O
palazzo O
of O
long O
ago. O
The O
Hotel O
Brun O
is O
a O
red O
brick O
palace O
of O
imposing O
presence O
with O
a O
delightful O
courtyard O
where O
you O
may B-LOC
stable O
your O
automobile O
along O
side O
of O
those O
of O
most O
of B-PER
the I-PER
touring O
nobility O
of O
Europe O
at O
a O
cost O
of O
two O
and O
a O
half O
francs O
a O
night. O
The O
hotel O
in O
spite O
of O
this O
is O
excellent O
in O
every O
way. O
Bologna O
is O
surrounded O
by O
a O
city O
wall O
pierced B-LOC
by O
twelve O
gateways O
and O
thus O
well O
preserves O
its O
mediæval O
effect O
in O
spite O
of O
its O
theatres O
cafés O
and O
restaurants B-LOC
which O
are O
decidedly O
modern O
and O
unlovely. O
Bologna O
when O
it O
was O
conquered O
by O
the O
Gauls O
took O
the O
name O
of O
Bononia. O
Under O
Charlemagne O
it O
became O
a O
free O
city O
and O
had O
for O
its O
device O
the O
equivalent O
of B-LOC
the I-LOC
word O
Liberty. O
Bologna O
the O
ancient O
city O
proud O
in O
the O
middle B-LOC
ages O
and O
independent B-PER
always O
has O
ever O
been O
the O
cradle O
of O
disturbing O
factions O
a O
revolutionary O
precursor O
of O
new O
ideas O
and O
has O
been O
sold O
and O
sold O
again O
by O
first O
one O
Judas O
and O
then O
another. O
Bologna O
is O
taking O
its O
history O
its O
present O
day O
prosperity O
and O
its O
still O
existing O
mediæval O
monuments O
into O
consideration O
the O
most O
impressive O
and O
imposing O
of O
all B-LOC
the I-LOC
secondary O
cities O
of O
Italy O
indeed O
in O
many O
of O
the O
things O
that O
impress O
the O
traveller O
it O
is O
ahead O
far O
ahead O
of O
Florence. O
Paul O
Van O
Herle O
a O
fifteenth O
century O
Dutchman O
first O
called O
the O
city B-LOC
Bologna O
la O
Grassa O
because O
of O
the O
opulency O
of O
the O
good O
things O
of O
the O
table O
which O
might O
be B-LOC
had I-LOC
here. O
Its B-PER
wines I-PER
and O
its O
grapes O
are O
superlative O
and O
its O
mortadella O
or O
Bologna O
sausage O
is B-PER
to O
many O
a O
delicacy O
without O
an O
equal. O
Bologna O
seems O
to O
have O
a O
specialty O
of O
leaning O
towers O
though O
the O
school O
histories O
and O
geographies O
always O
use O
that O
of B-LOC
Pisa I-LOC
to O
illustrate O
those O
architectural O
curiosities. O
Their O
histories B-LOC
are O
very O
romantic O
and O
the O
mere O
fact O
that O
they O
are O
out O
of O
perpendicular O
takes O
nothing O
away O
from O
their O
charm. O
The B-LOC
two O
leaning O
brick O
towers O
of O
Bologna's O
Piazza O
di O
Porta O
Ravegnana O
the O
Torri O
Asinelli O
and O
the O
Torri O
Gorisenda O
the O
first O
nearly O
a O
hundred O
metres O
in O
height O
and O
the O
latter O
about O
half O
that O
height O
are O
two O
of O
the O
most O
remarkable O
structures B-PER
ever I-PER
erected I-PER
by B-PER
the I-PER
hand I-PER
of I-PER
man. O
The O
Asinelli B-PER
tower I-PER
was O
built O
in O
1109 O
and O
its O
neighbour O
which O
never O
achieved O
its O
completion O
in O
the O
following O
year. O
From O
Bologna O
to O
Modena O
is O
thirty O
two O
kilometres O
and O
midway O
is O
Castel O
Franco O
or O
Forte O
Urbano O
as O
it O
is O
variously O
known. O
It O
was O
formerly O
the O
Forum O
Gallorum O
of O
the O
Romans O
and O
still O
has O
its O
castel O
little B-LOC
changed B-LOC
from O
what O
it O
was O
in O
the O
days O
when O
Urban O
VIII B-PER
built I-PER
it. O
Modena O
is O
mostly O
confounded O
by O
hurried O
travellers O
with O
Modane O
though O
the O
latter O
is O
merely O
a O
railway O
junction O
where O
one O
is O
tumbled O
out O
in O
the O
middle O
of O
the O
night O
to O
make O
his O
peace O
with O
railway O
and O
customs O
officials. O
Modena's O
Palazzo O
Ducale O
now O
the B-LOC
Palazzo O
Reale O
was O
and O
is O
a O
vast O
gaudy O
construction O
not O
lovely O
but O
overpowering O
with O
a O
certain O
crude O
grandeur. O
A O
military O
school O
has O
now O
turned O
it O
to O
practical O
use. B-LOC
It B-LOC
never I-LOC
could I-LOC
have O
been O
good O
for O
much O
else. O
A O
picture O
gallery O
and O
Cæsar O
d'Este's O
famous O
library O
are O
quartered O
in O
the O
Albergo O
Arti O
built O
by O
the O
Duke O
Francesco O
III O
in O
the O
seventeenth O
century. O
The O
library O
Biblioteca O
Estense O
was O
brought O
from O
Ferrara O
in O
1598 O
by O
Cæsar O
d'Este O
on O
his O
expulsion O
by O
Clement O
VIII. O
It O
contained O
100 B-LOC
000 O
volumes O
and O
3 B-PER
000 I-PER
MSS. I-PER
Three I-PER
of O
the O
most O
learned O
men O
in O
Italy O
during O
the O
last B-PER
century I-PER
Zaccaria I-PER
Tiraboschi O
and B-PER
Muratori I-PER
were O
its O
librarians. B-PER
Amongst O
the O
treasures O
were B-PER
a I-PER
gospel I-PER
of O
the O
third O
century O
a O
Dante O
with O
miniature O
of O
the O
fourteenth O
century O
a O
collection O
of O
several O
hundred O
Provençal O
poems B-PER
etc. B-LOC
Modena I-LOC
was O
the O
birthplace O
of O
Mary O
of O
Modena O
the O
fascinating O
princess O
who O
became O
the O
Italian O
Queen O
of O
the O
English O
people O
the O
consort O
of O
James O
II. O
She O
was O
an O
Italian O
Princess O
of O
the O
house O
of O
Este. O
Her O
mother O
was B-LOC
the O
Duchess O
Laura O
of O
Modena O
daughter O
of O
Count O
Martinozzi O
and O
Margaret O
Mazarini O
cousin B-LOC
of O
the O
great O
Cardinal O
Mazarin O
and O
she O
was O
married O
under B-PER
his O
auspices O
at B-LOC
the I-LOC
Chapel O
Royal O
of O
Compiègne O
in O
1655 O
by O
proxy O
to O
Alfonso O
d'Este B-PER
hereditary O
Prince O
and O
afterwards O
Duke B-PER
Alfonso I-PER
IV B-PER
of I-PER
Modena. I-PER
When I-PER
Lord O
Peterborough O
the O
envoy O
of B-PER
the I-PER
Duke O
of O
York O
was O
shown O
the O
portrait O
of O
the O
Princess O
Mary O
he O
saw O
"a O
young O
Creature O
about O
Fourteen O
years O
of B-PER
Age; I-PER
but I-PER
such O
a O
light O
of B-PER
Beauty I-PER
such O
Characters O
of B-PER
Ingenuity I-PER
and O
Goodness B-LOC
as O
it O
surprised O
him B-LOC
and O
fixt O
upon O
his O
Phancy B-PER
that I-PER
he O
had O
found O
his O
Mistress O
and O
the O
Fortune O
of B-PER
England." O
He O
made O
every O
effort O
to O
meet O
her O
personally O
but O
in O
vain; O
so O
he O
was O
introduced O
"by O
means O
such O
as O
might O
seem O
accidental O
" O
to O
the O
Abbé O
Rizzini O
who O
was O
employed O
at O
Paris O
to O
negotiate O
the O
interests O
of O
the O
House O
of O
Este. O
This B-LOC
man O
attributed O
"many O
excellencies O
to O
Mary O
of O
Modena O
yet O
he O
endeavoured O
to O
make O
them O
useless" O
to O
them O
by O
saying O
that O
she O
and O
her O
mother O
wished B-PER
that I-PER
she O
might O
take O
the O
veil. B-LOC
It O
was O
later O
learned O
that O
obstacles O
were O
put O
in O
the O
Duke O
of O
York's O
way O
until O
he O
announced O
his B-PER
willingness O
to O
become O
a O
Roman O
Catholic. O
Reggio O
in O
Æmilia O
passed O
on O
the O
road O
to O
Parma O
is O
a O
snug O
little O
town O
supposedly O
the O
birthplace O
of O
Ariosto. O
A O
house O
so O
marked O
compels O
popular O
admiration O
but B-PER
again I-PER
it O
is O
possible O
that O
he O
was O
born O
within O
the O
citadel O
since O
razed. O
The O
Duchies O
of O
Parma B-LOC
and O
Modena O
counted O
little O
in O
the O
political O
balance O
in O
their O
day O
but O
the O
fêtes O
and O
spectacles B-PER
of O
their O
courts O
were O
frequently O
brilliant. O
The O
Duchy O
of O
Parma O
and O
of O
Piacenza O
was O
created O
in O
1545 O
by O
the O
Pope O
Paul O
III O
for O
his O
son O
Pietro O
Farnese. B-LOC
Little B-LOC
of O
Parma's O
mediæval O
character O
remains O
to O
day. O
The O
town O
is O
said O
to O
have O
been O
called O
Parma O
from O
its O
similarity O
to O
the O
form O
of O
a O
shield. O
But O
the O
torrent B-LOC
Parma O
which B-LOC
runs O
through O
the O
city O
crossed O
by O
three B-PER
bridges I-PER
besides O
the B-PER
railway I-PER
bridge O
most O
probably O
gave O
its O
name O
to O
the O
city O
which O
arose O
upon O
the O
banks. O
When O
the O
city O
was O
under B-LOC
the O
authority O
of O
the O
Popes O
it O
was O
represented O
by O
a O
female O
figure O
sitting O
on O
a O
pile O
of O
shields O
and O
holding O
a O
figure O
of O
Victory O
with O
the B-LOC
inscription I-LOC
of I-LOC
Parma O
aurea O
. O
Let O
the O
heraldic O
students O
figure O
out O
any O
solution O
of O
the O
incident O
that O
they O
please O
or O
are O
able. O
The O
Via O
Æmilia O
divides O
the O
city O
by O
means O
of O
the O
Strada O
Mæstra O
into O
two O
very O
nearly O
equal O
parts. O
Parma O
like O
Modena O
and O
Lucca O
has O
changed O
its B-LOC
fortification O
walls O
into O
boulevards O
called O
"Stradone O
" O
which O
are O
the O
favourite O
rendezvous O
for O
Parmesan O
high O
society O
when B-LOC
it O
goes O
out O
for O
a O
stroll. O
Near O
Parma O
is B-PER
Canossa I-PER
the O
site O
of O
an O
old O
fortified O
town O
one O
day O
of O
considerable O
importance B-LOC
but O
now O
decayed O
beyond O
hope. O
Here O
the O
Emperor O
Henry O
IV O
bareheaded O
and O
barefooted O
supplicated O
Pope O
Gregory O
V O
in O
1077 O
an O
incident O
of O
history O
not O
yet O
forgotten O
by O
the O
annalists O
of O
church B-LOC
and O
state. O
Soon O
after O
leaving O
Parma O
the O
Roman O
road O
crosses O
the O
river O
Taro O
the O
boundary O
frontier O
which O
shut O
off O
the O
Gaulish O
from B-PER
the O
Ligurian O
tribes. O
The O
Brothers O
of O
the O
Bridge O
here B-PER
built O
a O
great O
work O
of O
masonry O
in O
1170 O
obtaining O
money O
for O
the O
expense O
of O
the O
work O
by O
begging O
from O
the O
travellers O
passing O
to B-LOC
and O
fro O
on O
the O
Æmilian O
Way. B-PER
In O
time O
this O
old O
bridge O
was O
carried O
away O
and O
for O
centuries O
a O
ferry O
boat O
served O
the O
purpose O
until O
in O
fact O
the O
present O
structure O
came O
into O
being. O
Borgo O
San O
Donino O
some O
twenty O
kilometres O
beyond O
the O
Taro O
marks O
the O
shrine O
of O
San O
Donino O
a O
soldier O
in O
the O
army O
of O
Maximilian O
who O
became O
a O
Christian O
and O
refused O
to O
worship O
as O
commanded O
by O
his O
Emperor. O
For O
this O
he O
was O
put O
to O
death O
on O
this O
spot O
and O
for O
ever O
after O
Borgo O
San O
Donino B-LOC
has B-LOC
been I-LOC
one O
of O
the O
most O
frequented O
places O
of O
pilgrimage O
in O
Italy. O
Fiorenzuola O
still O
on O
the O
Via O
Æmilia O
a O
dozen B-PER
kilometres I-PER
farther O
on O
has O
still O
an O
old O
tower O
to O
which O
hang O
fragments O
of O
an O
enormous O
chain O
by O
which O
criminals O
once O
were O
bound O
and O
swung O
aloft. O
All B-LOC
through I-LOC
this B-LOC
fertile O
abundant O
region O
through O
which O
runs O
the O
famous O
Roman O
Road B-LOC
are O
numerous O
little O
borgos O
or O
villages O
bearing O
names O
famous O
in O
the O
history O
of O
Italy O
and O
its O
contemporary O
minor O
states. O
Piacenza O
was O
founded O
by O
the O
Gauls O
and O
was O
afterwards O
by O
the O
Romans O
named O
Placentia. O
It O
has O
ever O
prospered O
though O
its O
career O
has O
been O
fraught O
more O
than B-LOC
once O
with O
danger O
of O
extinction. O
By O
the O
tenth O
century O
its O
great O
trading O
fair O
was O
famous O
throughout B-LOC
Europe. O
Piacenza O
is O
full O
of O
palaces O
statues O
and O
monuments O
which O
merit O
the O
consideration O
of O
all O
serious O
minded O
persons B-LOC
but O
the O
automobilist O
who O
has O
made O
the O
last O
fifty O
kilometres O
of O
the O
Via O
Æmilia O
in O
the O
rain O
and O
how O
much O
it O
does O
rain O
in O
Italy O
only O
one O
who O
has O
travelled O
there O
by O
road O
for B-LOC
weeks O
really O
appreciates O
is O
first O
concerned O
as O
to O
where O
he O
may O
lay O
his O
head O
and O
house O
his O
car O
free O
from O
harm. O
The O
Grand O
Hotel O
San O
Marco O
answers O
his O
needs O
well O
enough O
and O
has O
the O
endorsement O
of B-LOC
the I-LOC
Touring O
Club O
de O
France O
as O
well O
as O
that O
of O
the B-LOC
Italian I-LOC
Touring O
Club O
but O
it O
is O
ridiculous O
that O
one O
is O
obliged O
to O
pay O
in O
a O
smug O
little O
Italian O
town O
of O
thirty O
five O
thousand O
inhabitants O
five O
francs O
a O
night O
for O
housing O
his B-LOC
automobile. I-LOC
Piacenza B-LOC
is O
on O
the O
direct O
road O
to O
the O
Italian O
Lakes O
via O
Milan O
from O
which O
it O
is O
distant O
seventy O
kilometres. O