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Author: Acton, William.
Title: A new journal of
A new journal of
By William Acton.
LONDON, Printed for R. Baldwin, near the Oxford Arms in
TO My Worthy and Most Respected Friend and Master
Worthy Sir,
AS I had the honour to wait up|you in your Travels to
Sir, Your Most Sincere, and Most Faithful Servant, W. A.
1 A New JOURNAL FROM
The Thirtieth we came to dinner to
Oct. 1. we hired Mules to carry us up the Alps by the way of Mount Senis, and came to Ramasse being one league, from thence to the great Cross two leagues more, which is the highest part of the Mountain that you go over, from whence we came to Bossoline to din|ner, which is about 12 miles more, from thence to
At
About five miles from
About a mile from
The new Fortifications that the Duke is making about Turin, being all of Brick, consisting only of Ba|stions and Curtains, are worth your observation.
The 9th. of Oct. we left
From
In
Tuesday the 16th. we went from
The 20th of October we went from
From
Tuesday the 23d of October we went from
The next day being the 24th of October, we arriv'd at
November the First we went from
Est, Est, Est, propter est, Herus meus mortuus est. From this place we went to Vi|terbo, eight miles more, where we lay; it is a very pretty town, and in most of the streets thereof there is fine Fountains. From hence we went the next day to Capreole, twelve 19 miles more, where there is a fine house of the Duke of Parma, but going to ruine, here we dined and after Dinner went to Monte Rossa, ten miles, where we lay; from whence the next day being Tuesday the 6th. of November, we came to Rome, two and twenty miles more.
The Eighth of November we took our Jonrney for
Upon Wednesday we hired Horses and rid out of Town, passing through the Grotto of Pausilinus, which Lassel in his Voyage of
About a mile from this venemous Grotto is the burning Mountains called by the name of Sulpha terra, the principal matter that burns is Brimstone, mixed with other Mi|nerals: We were as near the burn|ing part of it as we durst go, for the smoke and fire was sometimes rea|dy to choak us. But which was most to be admired, was to see fire and smoke come furiously out, if you thrust but a stick into that levelled part of the Mountain on which we walked, the hilly part thereof being blown up and consu|med with burning some time before.
From hence we went to
28 From hence we took our Boat again, and returned to Puzzeolo, where one may see the beginning of a Bridge, carried on at least a mile or two into the Sea; it is re|ported to be the unadvised enter|prise of the Emperour Caligula, who thought to have made it over an arm of the Sea three or four miles long. The same night we return|ed to
Upon Saturday we took a view of
Thursday the 29th of November being returned to
Upon Saturday the 1st of December we went to the Villa Burghese, belonging to a Prince that bears the same name, where we saw abundance of fine Statues, whereof the Gladiator and Apollo taking hold of Daphne are most worth remark: These two last Figures being one intire piece of White Marble, representing Apollo's pursuit of Daphne to ravish her, when she changes into a Tree, was done by Seignior Bernin; the Painting is very good; the fine Gardens and the variety of Waterworks is worth seeing: There is a Sea-Horse-Head, and an Elephants Head worth taking notice of.
Sunday, the 20 of December, we went to St. Paul's Church, about a mile and an half out of
Munday we saw Prince Pamphilio his 33 Palace, one of the Popes Nephews, about a mile out of Town.
Tuesday we went from St. Peter's Church to the Inquisition, whose build|ing we saw, but they would not per|mit us to go into the Prisons: From hence we went to the Church of St. O|nestrio, where the body of Torquatus Tas|sus the Italian Poet lies Interred; we saw his Study, some of his own Manu|script, the Cup he usually drunk out of, and the Room he died in, in which there is now a fine Library.
From this place we went to the Queen of Swedens Palace, where there is most excellent pieces of Painting done by the best hands, as Titio, Bonoretta, Carrag|gio and others.
From thence we went to Farnesi's Pa|lace, where we saw that Incomparable Masterpiece that was brought from
Over against this in a Little Palace of Seignior Pighinis, there is two of the finest Statues of Marble that is to be seen in Rome, the one is Meleagre, or as some say Adonis, the other is a Venus.
Wednesday we saw the Palace of Mon|talto, where there are a great many fine Statues and curious Waterworks, in a most spacious and fine Garden. From hence we went to Ludovisio's great Gar|den, where in one Apartment we saw a Bed of inestimable value; it was all beset with Precious Stones, and by this Bed, in a large Box, we saw a petrified man.
Thursday we saw the Palace of Cardi|nal Spada, and the Hospital where all the Pilgrims that come to
Saturdry we saw Prince Pallastrino's Pa|lace, and upon Sunday we went to Santa Croce in
Monday the 10th. we saw Cardinal Ghisi's Pallace, where there is a most admirable collection of Pictures, and the richest Portiers or Door hangings that are in Rome, there was a very rich bed of wh te Sattin, painted they say, with the Juice of Flowers, so curiously that it took up five years time to do it in:
Tuesday, we saw the Effigies of the King of France on Horseback, cut out of one intire piece of pure white marble, by Cavalier Beruin; it was not then quite finished, yet it seemed to challenge the finest thing of that nature that ever was made: It was to be sent into France, so soon as it should be finished.
Wednesday, we saw the Cupola of St. Peters, and went into the Ball which is near seven Foot Diameter, and will hold ten or twelve men at a time completely.
The Church of St. Peter with the por|tico and thickness of the walls is one 37 Thousand and Fifty eight Palmes in Length.
The breadth of the Church in that part that makes the Cross is six hundred and seventy Palmes.
From the Pavement to the twelve A|postles is two hundred and twelve Palmes high.
The Cupola is one hundred and nine|ty Palms diameter, and six hundred and fifty two from the Pavement to the Cross, that is fixed upon the top of the Cupola.
The Lanthorn of the Cupola, and the great Altar in the middle of the Cross of the Church do measure alike, in height one hundred twenty six Palms and a half.
The Thursday following, we went and saw the little Pallace of Cardinal Ghisi, where there is a very pretty Armory, and many natural Curiosities, amongst the rest the Cockatrices were worth re|mark: His fine Garden, and those ma|ny Artifices by water, from which it is almost impossible to avoid being wet, unless the Gardiner be your Friend, were all very well worth our sight.
Friday the 14th. we were introduced by the French Ambassador, and admitted 38 to the honour of kissing the Popes toe.
Saturday, we saw the Prince Burgese's Pallace which is esteemed the finest in
Sunday, we went to the Church of St. Sebastian about three miles out of Rome· it is one of the seven Churches, and where they tell you our Saviour met St. Paul, and conversed with him, and left his Foot-steps for a mark thereof, if you can believe as the Church of
Monday 17th. we began with the new Church of St. Nichola Tolentino, which is well adorned with good Painting and a fine Altar.
From hence we went to Porta Salaire, or Collina, through which Hannibal and Bremus King of the Galls entered, when they came to Rome; a little within this Gate you see the place where they used to inter the Vestal Nymphs. We went 39 forward and came to Porta Pia, so called, from Pius Quartus Pope of Rome, in whose time it was built, the workmanship was Michael Angelo Boneretta's, the pretty Sa|bines that were ravished by the Romans, came in at this Gate.
From this Gate we went to the Tem|ple of Sta. Agnese, it is about a mile be|yond the Walls of the City, where there is a great many fine Marble Pillars very antique, and Candlesticks taken from the Temple of Bacchus, but the four Porphery Pillars that bore up the great Altar are most worth remark.
Near to this you see the place they call Roma Subterranea, you go under ground and are conducted into several narrow passages on the right and left hand, you may see several niches and con|cavities in which were Skulls, and other Bones of Saints and Martyrs which in the times of Persecution fled thither and died there, and were buried, as our Au|thor reported.
Near to this place is the Church of St. Constanza, heretofore the Temple of Bac|chus, in which you may see that Por|phery Sepulcher either of Bacchus, or of Constanza, as is believed; it may challenge the whole world for a Curiosity.
40 From hence we went to the Church of St. Victoire, where you may see the fine Statue of St. Terraise, made by Cavalier Beruin, near to this is that of St. Susanna, where the Painting is not much amiss.
From hence you may see the Tower or Church of St. Bernard, their Garden was heretofore a Theatre, opposite to which are the Baths of the Emperour Di|oclesian, by which you may take notice of eight great Marble Pillars which bore up the Ruines of a most noble arched Fabrick now partly converted to a Church.
Not far from hence there is a little Church called Pudantiene, where you may see that lovely Chappel of Cajeton, and in it admire that incomparable Altar-piece, which represents the birth of our Saviour and the three Kings coming to worship him, made by Petrus Oliverus Romanus; the Mosaick work is worth taking notice of, besides the fine Statutes.
Hard by this little Church you may take notice of the Bath of Agripina, the Mother of Nero, now in the
From hence we went and saw the pretty Church of St. Martin, upon Mount Esquelyn, built upon the ruined Baths of Titus Vespasius: At the end of 41 this Church was the Tower of Nero, up|on which he sat playing on a Harp whilst the City of
From hence we went to the Church of St. Peter in Vincoli, where there is a very fine Statue of Moses; and they say the last thing that was done by Michael Angelo. I should have told you that it was between Porta Salaire and Porta Pia, about three miles from Rome, where Nero the Emperour killed himself, to prevent a most shameful death that was prepared for him.
Tuesday we went about three miles out of
In the wall of the City you may see the fine Piramid, or, as some say, the Sepulchre of Caius Cestius; others say it is the Sepulchre of Remus. It was finish|ed in 330 days, which was but a very short time for so great a work.
Thursday after dinner we saw the Pal|lace of Prince Justiniano, where there is fine Statues and Painting. Then we went and saw the Popes gardens at Monte Cavallo.
Friday, near the Church of St. Sebasti|an, which is some three or four miles out of
Saturday, we went to Campidoglio, where you may see erected the Trophies of the Emperour Trajan when he returned to Rome, victorious over the Transilvanians. In the middle Court you see the copper Horse, vulgarly called the Horse of Con|stantine the Emperour: In the Court call|ed 44 Conservatori, you may take notice of the Head of the Emperour Domitian, the Head and an Arm of the Emperour Com|modus, the Tomb of Mamea the Mother of Alexander Severus, with many other fi|gures very ancient. The Apartments a|bove Stairs are full of old Statues and fine Painting, the Idol of Hercules, and the figure of a Wolf, with Romulus and Remus hanging at the Dugs of it, are very antique and worth remark, they are of Copper.
From hence we went to Mount Capi|tolin, hard by which you may see three fine Pillars that remain of the Temple of Jupiter; on the top of which Pillars you may take notice of a Stone with fine old carving on it, of those things which do denote the use and intent of the structure; for by the Bullocks Head and Horns dressed with Flowers, the Ax, the Sacrificers Knife, and Bason to receive the Blood, and other things of this nature, one may easily believe the report, that it is the remains of the Tem|ple of Jupiter, where they used to Sacri|fice to that Deity. Near to this you see the Temple of Concord: And not far from hence that fine ancient Pillar, upon which was set the Statue of Domitian the 45 Emperour; a little farther we saw the Dungeon where the Romans formerly used to imprison the most notorious Ma|lefactors, amongst the rest St. Peter and St. Paul are said to have been kept here; they shewed us a Pillar to which their Chains were fastned, and close by it a little Fountain wherein, they say, the Goaler and his Family were baptized after they were converted to the Christian Faith. In this place stands now a little Church dedicated to St. Joseph, it is at the foot of that great descent of Marble Steps where the Romans used formerly to throw down the Criminals that were condemned to die: By this you may see the Triumphal Arch of the Emperour Septimus Severus, erected against his re|turn from the Conquest of the Partheans, near to this is the Church of St. Martin, where you may see his stately Sepulchre in a Vault, and his fine Image of Marble upon the great Altar; they likewise pre|tend to shew you where his Body was found. A little way from hence is the Church of St. Francis, and in it that no|ble Sepulchre, erected to his memory by Pope Innocent the tenth, and another in|comparable piece of Petrus Oliverus, which represents the entry of Pope Gre|gory 46 the 11th into
Wednesday, the 2d of January, we pas|sed by the Church of St. Maria Maggiore, which stands upon Mount Esquilino, and came to the little Church of St. Bibian, where you may see her fine Statue, made by Cavalier Bernin; there is good Paint|ing in Fresco, done by Dietio Cortone; they shew you a little Pillar of Porphery, to which they say St. Bibian was tied when she was martyrized.
Near to Porta Palestina is the Temple of Bacchus, built by Augustus Caesar, to the honour of his two Nephews, Cajus and Lisius; it is now vulgarly called Ga|lusia. From hence we went and saw Sancta Croce, which is one of the Seven Churches, the Pillars thereof were taken out of the Temple of Venus and Cupi|don, which Temple was ruined by the 47 Emperour Constantine; behind the great Altar is the story of St. Helena, mother of Constantine, seaching for the Cross of our Saviour, done in Fresco by Perusino the Master of Raphael Urbin. From hence we went to the Temple of the Empe|rour Claudins, now called St. Stephens Church; it is built round, and sup|ported by abundance of fine Pillars; the History of the persecutions of the Chri|stians by the heathenish Emperours, from the time of our Saviour to Constantine the first Christian Emperour, is painted round the Church.
Saturday we went again to the Campa|doglio, where in a little Court going up Stairs, one may take notice of four se|veral pieces Carved in Stone, which re|present the coming of Marc. Aurel. in tri|umph to Rome. Above Stairs take no|tice of the great Hall painted in Fresco by Joseph Darpin; in the next Room is the Statue of Anthonio Columne; and in the next to this the Head of Junius Brutus that overcame the Tarquins, the Head of Mithridate an eminent Captain against the Romans. In another room we saw the Head of Fabritius a brave Soldier against the Pirots, and the Head of Si|mon that betrayed
Not far from hence is the Temple of Anthonin and Faustin, now called the Church of St. Laurence, where there is a fine Altar-piece, done by Pietro Cortono: Hard by this is the Temple of Romulus and Remus, now the Church of St. Come and Damian. And not far from hence we saw the Triumphal Arch of Titus Vespasian, erected upon the taking of Rome: Not far from this you may see the Triumphal Arch of Constantine, by some called that of Trajans, because most of the best Figures carved in Stone, and what else is there most worth your no|tice was brought from the Triumphal 49 Arch of Trajan, to whose honour it was built after he had subdued the Tyrant Maxanae: Near to this you may see the Ruins of the Amphitheatre, where St. Ig|neas, a Disciple of St. Peters, in the raign of Trajan, was devoured by Lyons. We went afterwards a little farther, and saw the nine Vaults where the water for the use of the Amphitheatre, as also for the Baths of Titus Vespasian was preserved; some say they were first made to keep water in for the use of Nero's Gardens. From hence we went to the little Tri|umphal Arch of Septimus Severus in Foro|bauno, erected by the Merchants and Goldsmiths, upon Stones where one may see carved the Ax, the head of the Victim, and several other things that were made use of in their Sacrifices to the Heathenish Gods. Hard by this stands an Antick-piece of square Build|ing, which has on every side a great Door built Arch-fashion, and twelve Niches, formerly, they say, there was fourteen such Buildings which divided the City of
Monday we went and took a view of Trajans Colomn, esteemed one of the finest pieces of Antiquity the World af|fords; all the most memorable and most noble exploits of his Life are lively re|presented by incomparable Carving, quite round the Pillar, from the top to the pedestal; the Model of which has been lately taken by the French King.
From hence we went to Mont. Avan|tin, where we saw the Church and Con|vent of St. Dominick's Order, it was here|tofore the Temple of Juno; there is one thing remarkable in it, a round Marble Stone, which they say the Devil threw 51 at St. Dominico when he was at prayers. Near to this is the Church of St. Alexis, heretofore the Temple of Diana. From hence we went to the Isle of Tiber, which lies between the Bridge of Four Heads, and the other Bridge called---where the Church of St. Bartholomew now stands, it was heretofore the Temple of Aesculapius, the God of Physick. We went from hence to the Church of St. Cicile, where we saw the fine Statue of Marble, made in the same manner, lying as when her Body was found: Near to this there is another Church, where in a little Chappel you may see a fine Altar|piece, painted by Hanibal Carasco, and a fine Antick Tomb. From hence we went to the Church of St. Chrysogorio, which is built upon the Ruins of an Hospital that Augustus Caesar had made for the use of his maim'd Soldiers. Near to this there is another Church called Sancta Translaverie, heretofore an Hospi|tal for the use before-mentioned. From hence we went to the place where St. Peter was martyrized, where there is now a Church called by his name; there is in it a fine piece of Painting of the transfiguration, done by Raphael Urbin: This place was heretofore called the Ga|nicul[...].
52 Tuesday following we went to St. Peters Church, and observed the four Statues of Copper, which support St. Peter's Chair; in which Chair the Popes are usually seated when the solemnity of Co|ronation passes on them; the two out|ward figures represent St. Ambrose and St. Augustin, and the two inward St. Cy|ril and St. Chrysostome; on the Right Hand of the Altar you see that incom|parable fine Statue of Marble made by Gulielmus Dellaporta; we went afterwards underneath the Church into the Vaults where we saw Otto the eleventh Empe|rour of Germany as he was there intomb'd, with the Sepulchre of Carola Queen of Jerusalem, Cypre, and Armenia; from hence we went into the Pope's Armory, where they say are Arms sufficient for 65000 Men.
We afterwards went to the Chappel, where we saw that excellent piece of Painting, which represents the Day of Judgment, done by Michael Angelo, who amongst other things that he had figured to be in Hell, puts in a Cardinal in his Pontificalibus, which was drawn so near to the life, that whoever saw it knew it to be the very picture of such a Cardinal, an eminent Man then living in Rome, who 53 they report came to see the Painting be|fore it was finished, and hastily rushing in at the door, over which Michael An|gelo hapned to be then at work upon a Ladder, chanced to throw him down, which to be revenged of, he paints the Cardinal in Hell, whereupon the Car|dinal complians to the Pope, who was then Leo X. of the great indignity done him by Michael Angelo, who had placed him amongst the Devils in Hell; to which the Pope returned this Answer, That he indeed was heartily sorry for it, and could have wished that he had placed him in Purgatory, for there he could have fetched him out; but being once in Hell, there was no redemption. So that the Cardinal remains there to this day.
Friday, we went to the Baths of An|thonio Caracallo, Son to Septimus Severus, from whence were taken all the Pillars that are now in St. Paul's Church, and the Bull of Farnese before mentioned, to|gether with the two great Marble Ves|sels that stand in the Piazza Farnese; these Baths, they say, had 1500 Rooms in them. In going to these Baths, be|tween Mont. Palatin and Mont. Aventin, we saw the Circle where the pretty Si|bins were ravished.
54 From hence we went to the Church of St. Laurence, being one of the Seven where there is abundance of fine Marble Pillars with other Stones finely Carved, relating to Sacrifices; from whence one may conclude that it had formerly been some Heathenish Temple: Upon the right and left hand going into the Church, you may see two Ancient Tombs of Marble.
We afterwards saw the Castle of St. Angelo, were the Popes Triple Crown is kept, in which there is planted a great many Brass Guns, whereof 'tis believed the major part was made of the Brass ta|ken from the Pantheon, and one of them made out of the Brass Nails only that were imployed in the Brazen Work of that Temple, so vast was the quantity of Brass found there.
From hence we went to the Pallace of Medicis, where we saw these principal Statues, (viz.) the Rotatore, being a Coun|try Fellow that discovered the Conspi|racy of Cataline against the Republick of Rome. A Venus made by Cleomenes the Son of Appolodorus of
From hence we went again to St. Pe|ter's Church, where we saw the head of the Spear that, they say, pierced our Sa|viours Side, and a piece of the Cross, with a Handkerchief that, they say, St. Veronnica gave him to wipe the Sweat from his Face, when he was going to Mount Calvar loaded with the Cross; whereon is to be seen plainly the print of a Face which, they say, affixed it self so to the Handkercief as soon as our Savi|our had made use of it.
Monday the 21th of January we left
It was first miraculously brought from
From hence they conducted us to the Treasury of the Order of this Holy House, which without doubt is the richest in Christendom, for that innumerable quantity of Precious Stones, as Dia|monds, Pearls, Rubies, &c. too many to be particularly mentioned, that they have there amassed together, likewise Vessels of Gold and Silver in abundance: There is also one fine piece of Painting, done by Hannibal Caratio; after this they shewed us the Apothecaries Shop, where|of the Pots were all Painted by Raphael Urbin. From
Wednesday, the 30th. of January, we left Ravenna, and went to Fienza, 20. miles, here it is they make the fine Earhen 62 Ware; the next day we came to Bo|logne, where we saw a great many fine Churches and Convents, to wit, that of St. John in the Mount, in which there is very good painting, especially one piece made for St. Cicilia by Raphael Ur|bin, and another fine piece done by Hannibal Caratio. In the Convent of St. Dominico, there is behind the great Altar, a fine piece, done by Machael Angelo: The Tomb of St. Dominic is ve|ry fine; in the Quire you see the Hi|story of the Old and New Testament, Carved in Wood, very curiously done by Franck. Damiano, a Lay Brother, and a Lamp of Silver, sent to them from the Indians about thirty years ago; they shewed us St. Dominic's Chamber for a great Curiosity. From hence we went and saw the Silk Mills, which was well worth our trouble, and one or two Pal|laces, and then we went to the fine Gal|lary of Aldovandino.
Monday, the 4th. of February, we went from Bologne to Modene 20 miles, where within four miles of that Town, near to the Great Road, is scituated a strong place called Urbin the Eighths Fort; it is a square, fortified with Ravelins and Demilunes, the best regular Fortificati|on 63 that I had then seen in Italy: The Town of Modene is inconsiderable, the Fortifications of it are old and decayed, but the Citadal may be taken notice of: We saw the Duke and his Pallace, in which there is nothing more remarka|ble than the Collection of Pictures.
Tuesday we went from Modene, and lay eighteen miles off at a little Town, called Cento, and from thence to Ferrara eighteen miles, where coming into Town you may take notice of a Fort, which seem'd to me to be a Pentagone very well fortified; in the Town is the Castello, surrounded with deep Ditches of Water; here the Popes Legate re|cides: They shewed us a fine Colomn not finished· whereon is to be placed the Statue of the Pope, that at present stands hard by the Domo, which is a ve|ry old Church. The Benedictins is a fine Monastery, where we saw the Tomb of Arioste the great Poet, and Author of Orlands Furioso. Over against the Domo, you may take notice of two Statues, re|presenting two Brothers, one a Duke the other a Marquess, of the House of Este; one of them delighted much in sporting and playing tricks, and had a House built for that purpose, but now 64 out of use. It became afterwards a Pro|verb, when any one would be playing the Fool, to say, (il Fratello del Duca è morto) which is as much as to say (leave off Fooling.)
Thursday following we went to Din|ner to Ravigo, the first Town in that Road that belongs to the Venetians, 22 miles from Ferrara, where we passed the River Poe, and the White Channel; after Dinner we went 15 miles more, to a Town called Mont Selevie; not far from hence we passed the River Adige; and a Friday morning we came to Padoue, ten miles, from whence the same day we took Bark, and arrived at
Sunday, the 3d. day of March, we went from Padoue to Vicenze 18 miles, where about a mile out of Town we saw a pretty Pallace, called the Roton|da; it is a very fine Prospect and be|longs to the Marquess Martio Capra; we also saw the Garden and Labyrinth of Conte Valinerana, the Amphitheatre and Triumphal Arch of Poladio, with what else was considerable. Tuesday the 5th we went thirty miles more, and came to Dinner at Verona, where the finest Tombs, and the richest that ever I saw of Marble, are there erected to the honour of the Family of the Scali|geres, who were formerly Masters of this Town; then we went to the Am|phitheatre, which is much like to that in Rome, but a more intire thing within, for the Spectators Seats or Places which are the Circular Degrees or Steps with|in side remain all whole, the outside is much more ruined than that in Rome. 69 From hence we went to Conte Juste's Garden, where you have a prospect of the whole Town; I took notice of the Pine Trees in the Garden, which are the finest I ever saw. From this Gar|den we went to St. George's Church, where we saw two pieces of Painting, very much esteemed, done by Paul Ve|roncse: It is thought that this Town is the biggest (except Venice) that belongs to the Venetians; its scituation is upon the River Adige.
Wednesday, the 6th. we left this place and went to Mamoue 24 miles, the Duke thereof and Dutchess his Wife, are both of the Family of Gonzaga: We saw the Town and the Dukes Pallace, but nothing worth remark in either· for about forty years ago it was plun|dered by the Germans, yet something remains in the Closet of Natural Curi|osities worth taking notice of, to wit, two or three Children Mummies, one of them like to a Satyr, the other two very Monstrous, there being but two Bodys, but to each Body Members for two Children; one of these Children was a Male, the other a Female very discernable: There was likewise a Man Mummy, he being about 360 years ago, 70 a very Tyrannick Governour of this place, was killed, and thus preserved for a detestable spectacle to after Ages. Of several Cockatrices I had seen in our Travels, the biggest was in this place. The little Hall painted by Gulio Romano of the Trojan History is worth taking notice of. The Town of Mantoue is well fortified by Nature as well as by Art. Ver[...]a, the place I made mention of before this, is likewise strongly forti|ed with thick Walls and deep Ditches. About five miles from Mantoue, in the road to Brescia, there is a fine Palace, belonging to this Duke, called La Fon|talla. The same day being the seventh, we arrived at Brescia 40 miles, riding all the way through a very delightful Coun|try. The Town of Brescia is strong, ha|ving good Walls and Ditches. The Castle that stands upon a little Hill has a great many good Cannon in it, and commands the Town. About 160 years ago the French were Masters of it, who with the assistance of some forces from Bologn made a strong sally upon the Town, plundering, and putting all to the Sword; ever since which time they have remained in Peace. The Town-House was one of the finest buildings in 71 all these parts, but by an accident burnt the remains of it is worth one's regard. The ninth we went from hence to Ber|gamo 30 miles, where we lay that night, the next morning, being Sunday the 10th we went into the Town, which is scitu|ated on a Hill, and well fortified: This is one of the finest prospects of Italy, we saw the Domo, and in it the Sepulchre of Bartholomew Collione, late Patron of the Town; there are four fine pieces kept lockt up, some call it Painting, but o|thers affirm it to be all but Wood In|laid, which makes the Pieces the more Curious.
After Dinner, the same day, we went to Le Fournaise 16 miles, where we lay that night; it is but a Village, and lies upon the River Adda. The next day we rode 14 miles upon the same River|side, and came to
From this place we came the 13th to a little Village called Buffe[...]lo 20 miles, it lies upon Navillio, a small River, and from thence the 14th to Vercelle 20 miles more: Then we came to the River Tissi|no 4 miles, and so to Novarra 6 miles; this is the strongest place upon the Fron|tiers of
From Pignerol we came to
FINIS.
Author: Clenche, John. Title: A tour in France & Italy, made by an English Gentleman, 1675 Date: 1676 Bibliographic name / number: Wing (CD-ROM, 1996) / C4639 Physical description: [2], 123, [1] p. Copy from: Folger Shakespeare Library, Washington, D.C Reel position: Wing / 2460:05 Table of Contents ›› Opens in popup window
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A tour in France & Italy, made by an English Gentleman, 1675 270Kb A Text Creation Partnership digital edition TCP Phase II Added to EEBO in December 2014 View document image [1] Document Images
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A TOUR IN France & Italy, Made by an English Gentleman, 1675.
LONDON, Printed for the Author, 167Single illegible letter.
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ERRATA. Page. Line. Errors. Corrections. 17. 3. Appear, Appearing. 18. 5. Hand, End. 20. 2. Tower, Town. 35. 16. Duae, Dux. 47. 5. Calacumes, Catacumes. 63. 8. Capital, Capitol. 68. 25. Unitage, Vintage. 72. 19. Carso, Corso. 79. 6. Monta, Monte. Ibid. 8. Fontana, Fontane. 80. 9. Capital, Capitol. biId. 13. Corile, Cortile. 82. 16. Of the some Pillars, &c. Of the Emperor Ner|va, some Pillars, &c. 83. 25. Are seaven, &c. The sette Sale are 7. 84. 21. di Bave, di Bove. Ibid. 26. Auma, Numa. 85. 16. The Colonna is, The Colonna Triana is. 86. 25. Guglio, Guglia Vaticana, &c. Ibid. Ult. a paret loco, a patre looo. 87. 28. Teaching, touching spiritual matters, &c. 99. 28 & 29. Are Denominicon 1020 are 1020. put into 16. Troops, &c. Ibid. 30. The Foot of the same, 25078. The Foot of the same denomina|tion, 25078. 111. In the Mar|gent. Pope oblig'd. Pope obey'd. 114. 5. Publickly, Politickly.
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A TOUR IN France & Italy.
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stones of near a foot broad; has abundance of Pa|laces which have no back Yards, nor stately Entrance; their Coaches stand in the Court, and their Stables under their Lodgings; their Rooms of State, all with the deformity of great unproportion'd Timber appearing on the Ceilings, nor excus'd by gilding, and the Churches neither beautiful nor neat: The River Seine runs through part of it, but is there so shallow, that it serves for nothing in the Summer but to wash their Cloaths, which they do upon long flat Boats: The Scituation is upon a level, excepting a little assent at the East|end; the Air so good, that it was never known to have the Plague, though there be ill Scents enough to make it continually suspected: The principal Traffick of this City, is, their Language, Dancing, Fencing and Riding-Masters, Babies, Toyes, &c. with which they supply all Europe, yet have enough left for their own use.
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which contains these Rooms; Guard-Chamber, Ante-Chamber, Dressing-Room, Bed-Chamber, a Closet for Private Councel, another for Devotions, a large Cham|ber for his Toys or Bijous, a Room built Gallery-wise to give Audience to Embassadors, a grand Sall for Ballets, and a Chamber for Comedies, with Theatre and Benches: Upon the same Floor is the Queens Appartment, which in every respect is as rich and large; but has one Room more, which is a Bed-Chamber distinct, for them to lye together; Under these (the Ground-Chambers) is the Dauphins, which are the same with those above: In these Lodgings there is much Gilding and Painting, Cabbinets of Eb|bony, inlay'd with Brass-Work, some Statues, &c. In one of the lower Rooms, is all the Models of the Towns in Holland and Flanders, with their exact For|tifications, Rivers, &c. In another, are ten thou|sand Poppits, representing so many French Souldiers for the Dauphin to exercise, being made to turn and charge at Pleasure: To this, which makes one side of the
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two Candle-sticks of prodigious heighth and weight; se|veral Stands near as big; 24. great frames for fruit and Banquets; a great Table with Figures emboss'd upon it of the Chariot of the Sun, &c. Some great Ewres, with other Plate of less weight and show, but none of Gold: Next to this is a little Armory, where the most remarkable suite of Armes is that, was given the King by the Venetians, very finely engraved with the Figures and Prospects of the Conquer'd Towns in Flan|ders, &c. Is exceeding light, yet Musquet proof, as appears by the dint in it; there is besides several strange Weapons, Armour of China, &c.
GOBLINS, A House built for the Kings Artificers, Note in marg: Goblins. such as Inlayers of Cabinets, Statuaries, Sculptors, Painters, Silver-Smiths, Tapistry-makers, &c. in all which, both great and small, the design is still the Kings Tryumphs, &c.
OBSERVATOIRE, A Building not quite finish'd Note in marg: Observatoire. Observa|toire. for the Kings Chymists and Mathematical experiments, which besides the sinking, it has below the Surface of the ground, there is a descent of 171. large steps; which go so low into the Rock, that at one side you meet the River Seine; from the bottom of this, by a hole quite through the Building, the Stars may be seen at Noon|day; round about it are Labratories in two degrees or Stories: The Building is Stone, without any Timber; the Chambers Arch'd as well as the rest; the Quaries
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just by it, which yield a Stone so soft, that at first digging, they work almost as easie as Wood.
INVALIDES, A sumptuous Hospital not quite fi|nish'd, Note in marg: Invalides. design'd for the maim'd Officers of the Army, and is therefore very large; it has two Courts, besides the Out-houses for Offices, &c. The first is equal to the Building of the
PALAIS, A great old Building which serves their Note in marg: Palais. Parliament, their Book-sellers and Milliners for an Exchange, their Merchants and Banquers for a Bourse, &c. but no room in it comparable to West|minster-Hall.
QUATRE NATIONS, A Church and Schooles Note in marg: Quatre Nations. Na|tions. built by Cardinal Mazarin; the Building pretty good, but the Cupola most remarkable, having much gilding about it; and like other French things, finer without than within.
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LUXEMBOURG, Both the House and Garden, the Note in marg: Luxembourg. Luxem|bourg. best in Paris; equalling to their bigness, the
BASTIL, A little old square Castle with four Note in marg: Bastil. Towers, serving for great mens Prison, like the Tower of London, but more fatal to its Prisoners.
PALAIS MAZARIN, Esteemed one of the first Note in marg: Palais Mazarin. Ma|zarin. Houses in France; resembles the first Court of Mon|sieurs, but the building higher.
THEATRES, Much worse than ours, so are their Note in marg: Theatres. Plays: In their Opera's their Scenes are infinitely in|ferior to those of Venice, as well as their Voices and manner of singing, being as unlike as Froggs and Nightingals.
FOIRE St. GERMAIN, A large piece of ground Note in marg: Foire St. Germain. under an ordinary cover of posts and tyles, divided into eight small Walks, or Streets; and the pleasure and benefit of it, is to cheapen, and then play for a Toy: It belongs to the Abbot, and yields him a very great Rent.
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TOWN-HOUSE, Has a good Front, one great Room, Note in marg: Townhouse. Town|house. with several Drawing-rooms, Offices for Clerks, &c.
SORBONNE, The only Colledge that deserves Note in marg: Sorbonne. taking notice of, Re-built by Cardinal Richelieu A|lamoderna.
St. DENYS, An old Church and Covnent, re|markable Note in marg: St. Denys. for its great Treasure of Gold, Jewels, Re|licks, Robes of Coronation, and for being Sepulchre to so many Kings and Saints.
St. GERMAINS, Has a fine Scituation, but the Note in marg: St. Germains. Ger|mains. House out of fashion; stands upon a Hill, and the River Sein running by it; on one side of it a Forrest which is well Wooded, and Pleasant; on the other an agreeable Country of Vineyards and Corn; has but one Court, is not large, nor any Rooms in it excellent; only the Kings Closet is pretty, being lined with Looking-glasses, painted with Cupids on them, and what there is of wood, cover'd with Gilding, the Roof being a Cupola, the Glasses very prettily deceive the eye, and the Floar in proportion of beauty to the rest; the Garden not extraordinary, but suitable to the House.
St. CLOUD, A House of Monsieurs, not large, but Note in marg: St. Cloud. pretty; stands upon a Hill, and the Garden (which is not yet in order) all the way descending to the River|side, the Cascade very good, which is ow'd to the Sci|tuation; has a great deal of Wood, but can never have any good Walks.
RUEL, A House so little, that it can only serve Note in marg: Ruel. the King to Collation in; the Gardens and Walks the most & pleasantest in France; the whole enclosure of it, being 300. Acres of ground, gives such room for variety, that there are Corn-fields as well as Cascades and Fountains in it.
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VERSAILLE, Though it seem to be scituate in a Note in marg: Versaille. hole, being overlook'd on every side with Hills, yet ne|vertheless stands on a little rising ground; the Front has wings, which by a new addition, are become much too long for the body; 'tis stone, colour'd as brick; not high, and cover'd with blew slate; the ridge with Iron gilded, which lyes on each side in Flowre-de luces, &c. Between the Windows little heads in niches; and for yet greater Ornament, the Roof is adorn'd with Pinacles; to approach the Door, there are two ascents of Marble Diamond cut; on the last a little gilded jette d'eau; and in each corner, at the setting on of the wings, two gilded Vollerys, or Cages, stuck against the Wall like Martins Nests: It affords not above three Appart|ments; the Kings, the Queens, and Dauphins; has some rich Furniture, and much painting; but his Majestys Bed-Chamber is most Bizzare, being meubl'd principally with Purslain, which it has in greater quan|tity and variety than any Potters Shop in Europe; ad|joyning to this, and the Queens Appartment, is a Terrase pav'd with Marble, supported with Pillars, and a Bason in the mid'st of it: The Garden is very large, and being a continued descent from the House, makes that side of it to appear higher, and more beautiful; has many Fountains, Basons, Statues, and great Walks, with tall Trees and Hedges; at the lower end a Canal, in which is a Yacht with all her Rigging: The King and all the Court enjoy the pleasure of it in their Coaches; the Deep-loose Sand, rendring it not agreea|ble to walk in. The Ministers and Nobility have Houses set at some distance on a piece of ground waste like Common.
TRIANO, half a mile from Versailles, stands a Note in marg: Triano. very fine Summer-House with Walks and Statues almost
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as beautiful as the other; the Roof all cover'd with Purslain Pots, or their Counterfeits; within furnish'd with Pictures, and paved with Marble.
REGALIO, At the bottom of one of the great Note in marg: Regalio. shady Walks was an Amphitheatre, made of Boughs and Flowers, wherein was conceal'd three sets of Musick, with which the King did entertain the Ladys: In ano|ther open part of the Garden, amongst the Fountains, was an infinit number of Trees, set with their branches full of Candles; in the mid'st of them, a Table with a Machine upon it, whereon was most artificially hung, all manner of Fruit, as if it were natural, with branches, leaves, &c. In the middle of it, abundance of Wax-Candles, and round about the bottom, places for dishes and covers.
COUNTRY, Towards Orleans has several agree|able Note in marg: Country. Hills, with pretty Houses on them, and two or three wall'd Towns, not much inferior to those upon the Loire.
ORLEANS Is large, ill built, ill paved, not one Note in marg: Orleans. good House or Gentleman living in it, and yet has a|bout forty Churches; it stands on the River Loire, which is very broad and beautiful, but very shallow; its chiefest Trade is Wine and Corn; the Fortifica|tions gone to ruin.
AMBOIS, A little wretched Wall'd Town, remark|able Note in marg: Ambois. for a Staggs horn, kill'd by Francis the First in the Forrest of Ardenne, which are fifteen foot high; his ribs they show seaven foot long, and of a prodigious thickness, and the joynt of his neck, which is a solid bone, is a foot diameter, all kept in the old ruinous Castle there; in which there is nothing else to be ob|serv'd, but a winding Stair-case, made for Coaches to run up, 35. fathoms to the Chambers; the Prospect of
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the Country from it is extream pleasant, the River very large, which having forsaken his old Channel, has there two stone Bridges.
BLOIS Has nothing good in it but its Scitua|tion. Note in marg: Blois.
MARMOUSTIER, A large Abby, wherein is kept Note in marg: Marmoustier. Marmou|stier. the St. Ampoule, that anointed Henry the Fourth; it ebbs and flows with the Moon, and was sent from Hea|ven to cure St. Martins Legg, which the Devil made him break by stealing away the Stair-case from his Chamber (now a pretty Marble Chappel on the side of the Church;) they also show a vast Tunn, wherein he kept his Wine, which probably was the Friend that stole away the Stairs.
TOURS Is not near so big as Orleans, though Note in marg: Tours. pretty large; the Houses are most of them cover'd with blew slate, as well on the sides as roofe; the Streets narrow, the best Church (St. Gratian) built by the English, and has the Windows painted as if they were Enamell'd; by the Rampart is a long Walk or Maille well set with Trees: It had a Castle, but now Ruins; along the River-side, is a Rock, under which there are infinit numbers of Burroughs of People, like those of Coneys; the Trade is Spinning, Weaving, and or|dering of Silks; it is an Arch Bishops Seat, the Sci|tuation in that part of the Country which they call the Garden of France.
SAUMURE, A little Wall'd Town under a Hill, Note in marg: Saumure. close by the Loire, not bigger than Windsor-Castle; the Walls very clean and free from Buildings: In the Subburbs, which is much larger than the Town, is a pretty new Cloister of Nostre dame d'Ardilliers, wherein is every day wrought Miracles: From the brow of the Hill, on which stands an old Ruinous Castle,
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there is a Prospect of a Country something like that about Windsor; it has abundance of Hugenots and their Churches, as in other Citys, without the Walls, and Subsists by being a School to Germans and Eng|lish. In the Road to Richelieu are two eminent Con|vents, Note in marg: 2 Convents. of the Order of St. Benoist, of Men and Women remarkable, in that the Men are sub|ject to the Women, and receive their Orders from them; the Lady Abbess is Sister to Madam Montes|pan, and in her Chappel lye two Kings of England Bury'd, who were Benefactors to it, Henry the Second, and Richard Cordelyon.
RICHELIEU: The famous Pallace of Richelieu Note in marg: Richelieu. is much less, and much lower Scituated than Aud|lyend; has a Mote about it, and a Canal at 50. yards distance again from that, which with several Cutts and Ditches, go a second time round it; in breadth it is a single House, has but one chief Court, the Stables and Offices plac'd on each hand in the approach to it, the Chambers are pretty square Rooms, but their Roofs all too low, which their heavy Timbers make to appear worse; there is great store of carved work on the Chimneys, Doors and Joice, and much French painting on the Ceelings: The Park exceeds the Garden, being very fine in its kind; has some Stags in it, a thing so rare in France, that they wonder at them there as Monsters: Near to this Pallace, is a Town built by the same Cardinal, and exactly Uniform, Wall'd and Moted too; it consists of one Street and two broad places at each end, whereof the one is a Market, but is so desolate and poor, that one would suspect the Plague were in it.
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Angers Stands upon the Main, a River that runs Note in marg: Angers. into the Loire, and almost as fair; 'tis Wall'd, ill built, not large, has an old Castle almost ruinous, which is yet a Garrison, and they show in it a Cage of wood, in a Dungeon, wherein was formerly kept Pri|soner a Queen of Scicily 21. years; it has a very good Maille set with double rows of Trees on each side, near as long as that in St. James's Park; not far from it a little Forrest, the Country about it, low, yet Wooded, Fertile, and Pleasant.
NANTS, Is less than Angers, but rather better Biult, Note in marg: Nants. they have an old Castle litile worth, which with suit|able Walls is all their Fortification: In the Carmelites Church, there is a Tomb of Francis the 2d. Duke of Bretagne, wrought by Mich. Colombus, which has ma|ny Figures about it, and all perfect; the Country is flat and woody, stands near the Sea, and upon the Loire, but its principal Trade is Brandy; near the Town, the Prince of Conde has a House which has a good Prospect.
ROCHEL Is less than Nants, has two or three Note in marg: Rochel. Streets built with low. Arches, under which are all their Trades-men, like an Exchange, and excepting those, and some few Houses, the Town is very ordinary, not having one good Church: The Harbour is little, and too shallow at flowing water for any Ship of bur|then; it has towards the Sea, two Block-houses for its defence, which is in effect all its Fortification: 'Tis almost all Hugenots, and their principal Trade, Salt: The Country from Nants thither, something resem|bling England, being Enclosure and Pastorage, ex|cepting a Fen of seaven Leagues next Rochel; the Sheep very remarkable, being most black, with white foreheads and tayles.
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ROCHFORT, The place where the King builds Note in marg: Rochfort. and lays up his lightest Ships of 40, 50, 60, and 70. Guns; the Charante a little dirty River, or rather Ditch, not so large as Puddle-dock, being the Har|bour wherein they ride; and so shallow, as well as narrow, that they cannot sail with their Guns in them; at the mouth of it is a little Fort, and by the side of it is a fine Store-house built of Free-stone, the length of 20. Ships, with several Appartments for such a number which lye every one over against their own dressing-room, and have their Terrible Names upon black Marble, in Golden letters over every door: The Country thereabouts Marshy and bad.
BLAYE, A great old Castle upon the River Giron; Note in marg: Blaye. the use of it to examine such Ships as pass to Bour|deaux, and the place where the English Trading for Wine were to leave their Guns; with this River, two Leagues nearer Bourdeaux the Garonne and Dor|dogne joyn, all which are muddy and troubled as a Torrent or Land-flood.
BOURDEAUX Stands upon the Garonne, a River Note in marg: Bourdeaux. more like Earth than Water, being near the Sea, is there very broad: It has one good Street with two or three good Houses in it; the rest of the Town narrow and ill built: It has 12. Parishes, but never a good Church; is govern'd by a Mayor, and six Jurats or Aldermen, is an Arch-Bishops Seat, and has a Parli|ament: Close to it stands a new Cittadel call'd Chasteau Trompette, design'd more to awe the City than defend it, which makes the Inhabitants hate the name of it; 'tis very regular and beautiful, has two Ditches; with|in the outwardmost is conveniencies for Horse, and in the other for Foot: The Country about it is a flat, cover'd with Vines; their sole Trade, Wine, which scarce any but the English buys.
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POITIERS, A stragling ill Scituated Town, low Note in marg: Poitiers. Marshy ground about it, and no good Water in it; the circuit of the Walls shews it has been larger much than it is; the best Building is the Church of St. Pe|ter, by Harry the 2d. King of England; 'tis a Bishops Seat, and govern'd by a Mayor.
CADILLIAC, A little infignificant Wall'd Town, Note in marg: Cadilliac. but the Duke of Espernons House there is not much inferior to that of Richelieu, being of the same sort of Building, and has a better Scituation, has finer Gardens and Orengery; but the dispute by his Nephews about the Title, makes it very much out of Repair.
AGEN, A Wall'd Town, stands upon the Garonne, Note in marg: Agen. neither well built, large, nor otherwise considerable, only that Scalligers House is there to be seen, and is a Bishops Seat; on the side of a Hill near it, is the Habitation of five Hermits, who have very good Ap|partments hewn out of the solid Rock; as also a Church, in which is a Spring that does wonders, produc'd there by the Tears of a Female Saint 13000. years agoe; the Father that shew'd it me, has been there 45. years, and is the most Devout, most Reverend, and most Simple Old Man I have seen; from hence is ea|sily discerned the Pyrenees, and a Country both fertile and pleasant.
MONTAUBAN, A little Town, pretty well built; Note in marg: Montauban the Market place has all the Houses upon Arches, and under them their Shops; in one part of it, is a pub|lick Fountain, which no Town else in France can boast, nor so good Wine and Provisions; 'tis a Bishops Seat, but consists most of Hugenots.
TOULOUSE Stands on a flat, is not bigger than Note in marg: Toulouse. Rouen, but esteemed the second City of France; is generally built of a pale soft brick, and so are the
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Churches, which might be demolished by scratching; it has divers Monasteries, and some very large; a fine Town-house, and at the West-end, a very good bridge, almost equal to Pontneuf, but the River under it not to be prais'd in the Summer: The Soyl is so hot, that in three months the Dead are dryed and taken up a|gain, and put into Vaults, where they may be Vi|sited: It has an Arch-Bishop and a Court of Parlia|ment, who glory in the priviledge of raising such mo|ney as the King requires themselves, and not to have the Officers of the Taille among them: It swarms with Lawyers, and is Poorer than any other part of France; yet the Country from Bourdeaux thither, the most fertile of the Kingdom, lying between two Rivers, and two ridges of Hills.
CARCASSONNE Is in two parts, both distinctly Note in marg: Carcassonne. Carcas|sonne. Wall'd, call'd the Citty and the Town, but neither of them worth notice, nor yet the Castle; the Country here is stony and barren, and about this Town are the first Olive-Trees I found.
NARBONNE Is the Frontier Town to Spain, Note in marg: Narbonne. stands low and unhealthfully, but pretty well Fortified; is an Arch-Bishops Seat, whose House is the best there; it has some pieces of Bridges, Aquaduets, &c. remain|ing of the ancient Romans; has no River, but a cut out of the Aude.
BEZIERS Has a Scituation upon a little Hill; and Note in marg: Beziers. the little River Orb by it, with a pretty good Bridge over it; the Country still Barren, but full of Olive-Trees, which here either breed, or some way draw a Quick|silver to their roots, that in time destroys them.
MONTPELIER Is one of the best built Towns Note in marg: Montpelier. in France, though one of the least, all of Stone, and most of it uniform, but the Streets insufferably nar|row;
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it stands on the side of a little Hill, so that coming from Toulouse all the Towns is seen, every House appear one behind another; is Wall'd, and has a little Cittadel, built about 40. years agoe, something like Chasteau Trompette; has Physick-Schools and Garden, and at some certain times the Apothecaries make the famous Confection of Alkermes in the pre|sence of the Magistrate; and next to that, their most considerable Trade is whiting of Wax, and making of Verdegrese: The Country about it is a little wild, as the rest of France, having no Enclosure, Meadow, or Pasturage, nor other Shade nor Tree but Olive; nor River, nor Water worth mentioning; and which is a greater defect, for the Ladys, there is wanting an a|greeable Walk, who having neither Park nor Garden, on the Plough'd ground do Trespass every Evening: At a Leagues distance on one side, is the Sea, and on the other Mountains.
FRONTIGNAN, A little ill-favour'd beggarly Note in marg: Frontignan. Town, yet Wall'd, remarkable for the Vines.
PORTSETTE, Where the King is making a Har|bor Note in marg: Portsette. in the Mediterranean, and has advanc'd a Mole already 600. yards, designs another Parallel to it, and the entrance to be just in the middle; the Stone they blow up out of a Mountain close by it, which is very good Marble: Here the famous Canal falls in, which is to joyn both Seas, but is scarce so large or deep as that in St. James's Park; the Garonne that runs that way, has saved a great expence, yet is never the less excessive, but so wisely plac'd upon the Provisions that Country spends, that his Majesty is a gainer by it: There are two or three Basons and Reservers, one pro|digious, being a Valley stopt up at one end, but the art to get water into them, is not yet known.
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NISMES, Where there is an Amphitheatre built Note in marg: Nismes. by the Emperor Trajan; the Walls the least ruin'd of any the Romans have left; it has 63. Arches, and 470. paces in compass; there is also a House on Co|rinthian Pillars, 10. in front, and 6. at each hand, suppos'd to have been a Capitol, and the Ruins of a Temple to Diana upon the head of a Rivelet: The Town is not for any thing else considerable, the Trade making of Stuffs, and the Country thereabouts Rocky: The Hugenots have a Temple in it, which is large and well contriv'd, and no less than 1200. Communi|cants belonging to it; near a third part of the people in these parts of France being of that Religion.
PONT du GARD, An Aquaduet made by the Note in marg: Pont du Gard. Romans 82. foot high, between two Hills cross a Ri|ver, almost perfect still; it has three rows of Arches, one upon another, and the lowermost serves for a Bridge.
AVIGNON Is the Popes, bought for a safe Re|treat Note in marg: Avignon. upon occasion, is Govern'd by a Vice-Legate, has the best Walls of any Town in France, though but lit|tle good Building in it; stands upon the rapid River Rome, half of which being the Kings, the Bridge between the two Owners remains broken: The greatest Curiosities are the Altar-piece in the Celestines Church, given by a King of Cecilly, which has 40. Figures, all cut in one Marble, and Laura's Tomb (Petracks Mistriss) in the Cordeliers Church, with the Verses found in it written by him, and the Medaille of a Fortune with it: In this City are abundance of Poor Jews, which for distinction wear yellow Hats, and to them an equal number of Whores, which are the great|est part of the Inhabitants; the Country thus far stony with many rows of Hills.
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ORENGE, A little Town very ancient, as the Note in marg: Orenge. Ruines of the Antiquities there do shew: It has now lost its Walls and Castle; the Principallity extends a|bout 8. miles in length, and 6. in breadth, and is very Fertile.
VIENNE, A little City standing likewise upon the Note in marg: Vienne. Rhosne, remarkable for Pilates having dwelt there, and the old Tower of the Gate-house, from which he threw himself into the River.
VALENCE, Another Wall'd City not worth no|tice, Note in marg: Valence. unless the breeding Lawyers can make it valuea|ble: It has a Bishop, who is Count of Valence and Die, two Bishopricks united; and is temporal Lord not only of that, but of several other places in that Country.
LYONS Is Scituate between two Hills, and lyes Note in marg: Lyons. about the belly of the biggest, in form of a half Moon, so close crouded up, that some part of it is crept upon them: It stands on the Rhosne and Saone; two Ri|vers, that by the help of the Mountains furnishes it with Foggs, that for most part of the Winter conceal the Sun; the Buildings are high, Streets large, Shops better, People neater and richer much than in Paris: It Trades considerably with Germany and Italy; Prints Books and exchanges Money for all Europe: It has an Arch-Bishop that esteems himself Primate of France; Eleaven Parishes, and in the great old Church of St. John, a ridiculous Clock mightily valued there; which, besides twenty other tricks, has little brass Angels that appear when it strikes; a Cock that is to be sup|posed to Crow, &c. but the Closet of Monsieur Ceruiere does ten times exceed it: The most extraordinary thing is the Town-house, which is equal to that at Amster|dam, with pretty Walks behind it: It is rather less
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than Rouen, and may be term'd the fourth great Tower of France; the Country about it not very fer|tile, but from Beauvoysin thither, seems pleasant, by reason of its ugly Neighbour, Savoy.
GRENOBLE Stands at the foot of a great Moun|tain, Note in marg: Grenoble. and upon the little River Isere, besides the Tor|rent called the Drac: It has the Fortification of 8. Bastions, is the place where the Parliament of the Pro|vince Assemble, and is famous for Gloves.
GRAND CHARTREUX, Scituate in the most Note in marg: Chartreux. Solitary place that can be found in the World, a|mongst horrid Mountains, worse than the Alpes, and the way from Chambery, hewn out of the side of Rocks in steps, with continual Precipices, a roaring Torrent in the bottom, and through the melancholly shade of Pines and Fir-trees; the House large, but far from being beautiful or regular; has about 50. Fathers, and half as many Brothers, which are necessary Trades|men, that work continually for the others; none else being admitted. A Stranger that is so Foolishly curi|ous as to come there, is Lodged for a Night; and a Fa|ther, whose particular business it is, entertains him; and in the Morning he Records himself in a Book at his going away. On the top of the Hill, in the Desart, is the Chappel of St. Bruno, once his Habitation, which he finding very cold, resolv'd t'abandon; but St. Peter appeared to him, and would never be quiet till he had promis'd the contrary, which is the sole reason that all these wise Fathers remain in this miserable place, though they have many pleasanter in that and other Provinces; the King of France, Duke of Savoy, and other Princes, having been so great Benefactors to them, that 'tis thought they are now able to ransome almost any one of them.
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ROHANNE, NEVERS, MOULINS, BOUR|BON, Note in marg: Rohanne, Nevers, Moulins, Bourbon, Briare. BRIARE, &c. Are not worth notice, nor the Country comparable to that part of the Loire, below Orleans.
BEAUVOIS, ABBERUILE, MONTREUILLE, Note in marg: Beauvois, Abberuile, Montreuille, Montreu|ille, Boulonne. BOULONNE, are pretty well Fortified, but not in good Repair; best towards Paris, which seems to have been the work of the English; the Buildings resembling our Market-Towns, low Timber Houses, with some few Brick amongst them; the Country like the rest, open, bears Corn, but not Fertile.
CALAIS Is strong both to Land and Sea, has Note in marg: Calais. Ramparts, Ditches, Citadel, Block-Houses, &c. and is a prettier Town, though less than the four former.
FRANCE in general Would be a very pleasant Note in marg: France in general. and agreeable Country, had it Enclosures and Pastu|rage; is neither so Fertile generally as Italy or Eng|land, nor yet has no ground altogether so Barren as ei|ther of them; very few Woods, Parks, or Forrests, and fewer Villas, or noble Country Houses; Rivers not many, and of those scarce any Navigable; much Corn, but not plump and large, Wines in good quan|tity, but without any flavor, and most of them tart and crabbed; Provisions of no kind excellent, their Poultrey lean, little or no Fish, scarce any Beef, Mut|ton, nor Veal that's good.
Their Horses little, and so strangely put together, that scarce any of them can either Trot or Gallop, and 'tis easier to teach an English Horse to dance, than one of them to amble, for they can only go the Pas, whence their Coaches, and all manner of Veiture, is so slow, as 'tis intolerable.
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Doggs of no kind worth a farthing, and to conclude, such is the nature of the Clime, or Soyl, that it pro|duces no Animal in perfection, but Asses.
The People nevertheless, the most gentile of any, giving Laws to us and others; for Fashions and Be|haviour, and yet not careful to be exact in either, but do all things as it were by chance, with a becoming negligence that extreamly pleases---observable in their Linnen, Cloaths, Houses, &c. in all which, they ab|hor exactness.
Nor has their Language any certain Pronounciation, but varies continually, as he that speaks affects, so that they do not understand, but guess at each others meaning, yet is esteem'd the sweetest in the World, al|low'd th'advantage of the Nose and Lisping.
Their Complexions generally yellow and swarthy, the Men wither'd, the Women thick lipp'd, flat-nos'd, a little turning up, which gives an aire to faces, and is emulated by our English Ladies.
If they have any defects, they are abundantly sup|ply'd by their good Meen and admirable Deportment, which gains them access before all other Nations, and above the rest are happy in this, that they can never mistake or commit absurdity by gestures or otherwise, a French-man being every where a Master of Cere|monys.
The Nobles are most extravagantly Courteous, and so Impartial in their Friendship, that they never ex|press, or shew, more to one man than another.
Are naturally Chollerick, which together with ex|tream Poverty and Misery, makes them so brave, as not to regard any danger, a Valour the Gentry are brought to by Fatigue and Service; the Vulgar by continual Taxes.
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Are of an humour airy, and very diverting, always in motion, and ever making some kind of noise or o|ther, Talking, Dancing, or Singing, being very like those impertinent harmless Flyes that are always busie about you, though neither to sting nor suck you.
Generally Amorous, but the Men rarely Jealous, and who will enjoy their Women, may do it at their Pe|rils.
Are very Apprehensive, or Eucillè (as they term it) understanding what you mean, before they know what you will say.
All naturally Poets, so that they cannot write a Let|ter without some Verses in it.
No less Historians, Printing every Mans History, or Memoire that is not hang'd in Effigie, for being great lovers of their own fame and glory; their own impar|tial Pens does Immortalize it.
GENEVA, A little Town, stands in a Flat, with Note in marg: Geneva. Mountains at some distance on every side, being the several Territories of France, Savoy, Swiss Valesi|ans, &c. by whose quarrels and emulation, it preserves it self; has pretty slight works about it, and an Arse|nal not very considerable; has no good Building, and is only famous for its Religion; there is a Lake which is 18. Leagues long, and 5. in some places broad, has admirable Trouts in it, and gives Birth to the rapid Rhone.
CHAMBERY, The chief City of Savoy, is about Note in marg: Chambery. the size of Saumure, but better Built; stands inviron'd with great Mountains, and is the place where the Par|liament resides.
MONTMELIAN, A little Town, by which upon Note in marg: Montmelian. Montme|lian. a Rock stands a very strong Castle that commands the Passage, and has the River Isere running by it.
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MONT-CENIS, The highest of all the Alpes, is Note in marg: Mont-Cenis a League up, two upon the top, (which is a kind of Plain or Valley between the Peaks) and in the mid'st of it, a Lake; the descent two Leagues more, which is troublesome and horrid in respect of the rude Rock and Stones which lye as if carelesly all at once there thrown and tumbled down the Hill; at the foot of it is Novalese and Suza, where Savoy ends, and Piedmont be|gins.
TURIN Stands at the foot of the Hills, on part of Note in marg: Turin. the same tract of Land with Lombardy; is lately en|larged by new regular Walls and Ditches; has a Citta|del on the back of it, and the River Po running by it; the Buildings are of Brick, plaister'd over, not ex|cepting the Duke's Pallace, from which there is a very fine new Street, with a square at each end, on Por|tico's like Covent-Garden.
The Old Pallace has two or three good Rooms in it, and joyning to it, in the great Church, a black Mar|ble Chappel now building, to keep our Saviours Winding|sheet in; but the prettiest thing in the House is the Dutchess her Bathing-Room, from which to her Bed-Chamber, she goes up and down by Counterpoize.
LAVENERIE, A pretty little House three or four Note in marg: La Venerie. miles distant, in which the Duke delights for Hunting|sake, a new straight Street leads to it; at the end of which is an Oval Building, and two high Marble Pil|lars with Statues on them: In the Court immediately before it, is a brass Stagg in the mid'st of a Bason, with Dogs about it: The House has abundance of Painting and Gilding; the Gardens very fine, and a high Semi-circular-wall with heads in Niches finishes the first, and then descending, there are two noble Grotta's, a Fountain, and a Semi circular wall, bent the other
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way, at the end of this last, is design'd a Temple to Diana, of which I saw the Model.
LA VALENTINE, A little neat House of the Note in marg: La Valentine. Valen|tine. Old Dutchesses; on the other side of Turin, upon the banks of the River Po, and therefore stands plea|santly; it has much Gilding, and better Pictures than any of the other.
The Duke calls himself Royal Highness, and Note in marg: Duke. glorys in having continued there a thousand years, and in all probability he may continue there a Million yet; for except Piedmont, which is not above a days Journey in length, and very narrow; none would covet any of his Territories: Savoy being so Horrid, Barren, and Cold, that one would think it could never have other Inhabitants than Bears; yet he has in it many mise|rable Villages, and 'tis said, could raise 20000. Men; but his Country being almost Inaccessible, needs nei|ther Armes nor Policy to preserve it; and therefore 'tis no wonder if its Duke have not the latter, since Nature gives nothing in vain.
His Principal Revenue is Salt, which he Note in marg: Revenue. sells after the French fashion to his People, and in all things Governs like them; his Court and little flat Country, being France in Minature, all speak|ing, cloathing, and living as they do; with all sorts of Gabels and Impositions he is esteemed to have a Million of Crowns yearly, besides his Pension from the French, to let them into Italy upon occasion.
GENOA, One of the Stateliest Citys of Italy, Note in marg: Genoa. stands close under the Barren Appennines, and washt by the Sea (Gli san Corona i Monti e Specchio il Mare) from whence it appears like a half Moon, and at each point two stout Ramparts, besides little Forts, as that at the foot of the Pharos, &c. Has an admi|rable
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Mole, a Block house to secure its Galleys, and a noble Enclosure, with abundance of Docks to build them in: The Streets are generally narrow, but the Buildings most Magnificent, consisting in effect of Pallaces, of which the chiefest are those of the Impe|riali of the Prince d'Oria, of the Duke d'Oria Marchese Durazzo, and Sigre. Balbi. The Churches are beautiful beyond expressi|on, Note in marg: Annunciata and in particular that of the Annunciata, which is supported with Pillars of white and red Marble, like Ivory staind, and so polish'd, that they may pass for Jasper; the Roof all Carved, Gilded, and curiously painted; the Altars finer yet, having such peculiar Ornaments as one might think impossible in Nature; and all this at the Charge of two Brothers; the Lomellini Merchants that give a third part of their gains to the Adorning of it.
The Jesuits, and that of St. Ciro, are not Note in marg: St. Ciro. much inferiour, the last exceeding it in Painting and Pillars.
DUOMO Is large, and has black Marble Pillars, Note in marg: Duomo. but not so fine as the former.
St. DOMENICO Is long and pleasant, its Pillars Note in marg: St. Domenico. Dome|nico. and Arches black and white.
St. PIETRO E PAOLO, Is plain, but well built, Note in marg: St. Pietro e Paolo. most remarkable for its Figure, being almost round, and having five Cupola's.
SPEDALE MAGGIORE, A great Hospital built Note in marg: Spedale Maggiore. at the publick charge (except some few Benefactors) for poor Whores, Old Men and Bastards, wherein 4. long Galleries with Iron Beds in them, they have di|stinct Appartments, as many over them again to work in, and as many Rooms about the Chappel to hear Mass. PALAR-
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In the Doges Pallace, which is great, is the Note in marg: Palazzo del Doge. Armory which can furnish 30000 men, and there is kept the Armour, their Women wore in the Holy War.
St. PIETRO del ARENA, Is a Village by the Sea|side Note in marg: St. Pietro del Arena. of Villas, and fine Gardens, which are made more pleasant by the great number of Orange-Trees, Mirtles and Fountains.
The Genouese Territories are but small, yet Note in marg: Revenue. their ordinary Revenue is said to be half a Million of Crowns yearly, and every Town pays besides its Souldiers, Officers, and Magistrates.
The City it self has a good Wall, besides the security Note in marg: Strength. of the Hills at its back, and 20. Ships and Galleys upon occasion at Sea.
Their Intrest is altogether Spanish, oblig'd to Note in marg: Intrest. it, not only by their present profit of returning all their money, &c. but by a great sum, long agoe lent the Spaniards, which will never be repaid, to keep them in awe, and by their Estates in the Kingdom of Naples, which they are not permitted to sell to other than Genoueses.
Their Trade is Sattins, Velvets, Taffeties, &c. but Note in marg: Trade. their best, Exchange of Money.
Their Government is by a Doge, chosen every Note in marg: Government. Govern|ment. two years, and eight Senators; but on occasions of making War or Peace, the Grand Counsel Assembles, which consists of 400. Elected out of the Families of the best Citizens.
NOVI: Their Frontier Town to the Millaneses, is Note in marg: Novi. little and inconsiderable; the Country from Genoa thi|ther, all Mountains.
TORTONA, The Frontier to the Genouese, like Note in marg: Tortona. Novi.
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PAVIA, A better Town than either of them; has Note in marg: Pavia. a fine Statue in Brass of Antoninus Pius on Horse-back; and in one of the Churches lyes Buried the fa|mous St. Augustine, a Duke of Suffolk, and Bishop Parker.
At a little distance from Pavia, is the Carthusian Note in marg: Carthusian Monastery. Monastery, the second of the Order, and the finest they have; on the Frontispiece of the Church is abundance of Carving, besides Marble Statues, Heads, &c. Within 'tis magnificent, though not built strictly a la-moderna: On the sides are particular Chappels for each Religious, all along rail'd with Brass of great heighth and beauty, as also is the face of it before the Quire; the Alter|pieces are the hands of excellent Painters, and the Pillars to them curious Marbles, Lapislasuli and Jasper; the great Tabernacle so rich, that 'tis valued at 20000 l. In the Sacristy is the back of an Altar of Ivory, in which is rarely cut in Figures the History of the New Testament given by a Queen of Cicilly: The Tomb of the Founder Giovanne Galeszzo Visconti, Duke of Milan, in a very fine white Marble, with Fame and Victory at head and feet; a great quantity of Plate, Jewels, &c. Their Cloister large, their Cells neat, and Gardens vast, and a great Pond in the midst to keep their Fish in, which has a little current running through it, all fac'd with Stone and other Ornaments about it.
MILAN Is only to be prais'd by saying 'tis great, Note in marg: Milan. being full ten miles in compass; has few good Buildings or Streets; the Houses generally of Brick, the Churches which of all sorts are recon'd to be near 200. are in|ferior to those in other parts of Italy, excepting so much of the Duomo as is built, which is all of white
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marble, with a bundance of Statues of the same, standing upon the Walls on the out side; within, the Pillars sutable, exceeding other Churches, in that the Marble is solid, and not crusted; the Floor is the most beautiful of all, being the finest Pavement I have seen; the Church is more than half finished, and has Scaffolds standing as if intended to go on, and a man or two kept knocking there to excite Charity.
SPEDALE MAGGIORE, The great Hospital is a Note in marg: Spedale Maggiore. Princely Building, standing upon stone Pillars in a large Quadrangle, has Conveniencies and Endowments for 4000. Poor.
The Lazaretto is as extraordinary in its kind, being Note in marg: Lazaretto. a square of near a mile about, and a little Rivelet running round it.
In St. AMBROGIO, is the Brazen Serpent Note in marg: S. Ambrogio. Ambro|gio. upon a Marble Pillar, which the Children of Israel Worshipp'd, and the place where St. Ambrose himself lyes Bury'd.
The Closets of Sigre. Canonico Setali, in which are Note in marg: Curiosities. all manner of Rarities: In the first, great variety of Burning-glasses and Reflecting-steels of great breadth, and several other Instruments for Solar and Mathema|tical experiments: In others are all sorts of Stones, Minerals, Shells, Horns, Beasts, Fishes, &c. that are rare, as Camelions, Rhinocera's, Sword-fishes, &c. Cloth of the stone Abestos, that is made clean by throwing into the fire; a Load stone but of two ounces weight, that takes up 25. pound of Iron; in another all manner of Clocks and Watches, as those of perpe|tul motion, with Bullets, of local motion, &c. In others Armes of India, China, &c. with their Kings and Priests hahits, curious Figures in Ivory, Anatomies of Abortives, fine Cabinets, Collections of Medails, &c.
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strange Looking-glasses, Nuts, China Manuscripts, &c.
CITTADEL Is larger than that of Antwerp, and Note in marg: Cittadel. is esteemed one of the best in Europe, has all sorts of Conveniencies, and Shops within it self to Accomodate the Soldiers, which are all Spaniards; it stands close by the Town, but the Government independant of him that governs Milan.
The City has twelve Senators chosen by the King, Note in marg: Government. Govern|ment. whereof three must be always Spaniards; these make and alter Laws, determine all Causes Civil and Criminal without appeal; the Governor has the priviledge of be|ing a Judge amongst them, and such is their respect to him, that they never reject any thing he pro|pounds.
The Revenue Spain draws from it yearly, is not less Note in marg: Revenue. than a 100000. l. Sterl.
Their Dominions so large in this fertile Country of Note in marg: Strength. Lombardy, that they can raise 50000. Men.
It ahounds with Artizans of all sorts, in so much, Note in marg: Artizans. that 'tis thought to have more than all Italy.
Lodi, Piacenza, Two pretty little Towns; the first Note in marg: Lodi, Piacenza. Pia|cenza. frontier to the Venetians; in the latter stands an ex|cellent brass Statue of Alexander Farnese, the great General, on Horse back; the Country about these Towns a perfect Garden.
PARMA Has a pretty River runs through it, and Note in marg: Parma. is esteemed to be three miles in compass; the Walls very good and regular. The Duke's Pallace has two square Courts, and the Theatre for Opera's in it, the finest in the World, being able to receive 14000. per|sons, and may hear from the extremities of it distinct|ly; by the side of it is a less for Comedies, which is very pretty: At some distance he has a Summer House with Gardens, Fountains, Orangery, &c. but out of or|der:
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His Stables are very good, and his Coaches ex|cel all Christendom in Richness and Ugliness, the one all of Plated-silver emboss'd, as also the Carriage and Naves; another of Velvet Embroider'd, so massie and gross, that it seems as rich, but more detestable in its shape, being as big as a Chamber, having four great arm'd Chairs in it, besides the usual Seats behind them again; and the Gilding is equal to the rest of the foolish cost, of which the Wheels have their pro|portion. The Cupola of the Duomo is Painted by the hand Note in marg: Duomo. of Carreggio, but faded very much, and the Floor is paved with large Marble.
The Duke's Revenue is said to be 400000. Crowns Note in marg: Revenue. a year, of which he spends much in Guards, never go|ing abroad without one of Halberds, and one of Ca|rabines, and his Mother and Dutchess have the like.
In all his Dominions he can raise about 20000. Note in marg: Strength. Men, having other little Territories, besides that rich Cauntry about Parma.
The Government of his Towns is by Podesta's, Note in marg: Government. Govern|ment. which have Power in all civil matters, and a Governor has the care of the other, but all Appeal (upon occasion) to the Councel of State at Parma, of which, Marquess Vigolino is the principal.
His Intrest is French. Note in marg: Intrest.
REGIO is the Duke of Modena's Frontier and Note in marg: Regio. best Town, of which Prince Lewis is Governor.
MODENA: In the Pallace is an Apartment of Note in marg: Modena. six Rooms, as richly gilded and furnished as any in Italy; the Dukes Stables and Horses better much than Parma; close by the Town he has a good Cittadel, and in the rest of his State he has two more.
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The chief Manufacture of this City, is making of Note in marg: Trade. Vizard-Masks, and Masquerading Habits, for which they have a very good return, and the Duke (though but 16. years old) is a great encourager of Trade and Protector of Virtuosi.
His Revenue is about 300000. Crowns a year, in|cluding Note in marg: Revenue. his little Mountainous Country of Garfagna, next Tuscany, which supplyes him with Oyle.
His Intrest and Government is exactly the same Note in marg: Intrest. with Parma, and his chief Councellor is Secretary Gatti: When he goes abroad, in the same manner at|tended too; has the same Guards; can raise as many Men upon occasion, and has very near as many Acres as his Neighbor Duke.
BOLOGNA Stands at the end of that rich Tract Note in marg: Bologna. of Land, that scarce the World cau equal; is large, well built, most of it upon Portico's like Covent-Gar|den; has several fine Monasteries, but that of St. Do|minick is the greatest, nourishing 150. Fryers: That of St. Michele in Bosco, being on a Hill with admi|rable Prospect, excels all the rest, and has the finest Dormitory.
The City is rather under the Protection, then Go|vernment Note in marg: Government. Govern|ment. of the Pope; for though he have a Cardinal-Legate there, he can act nothing of Consequence with|out the consent of the Senate, who have the Militia in their own hands, which in the State consists of ten thousand Foot, and a thousand Horse, besides six thou|sand Citizens, Commanded by a Maestro di Campo of their own, for all which, they have Magazins of Amu|nition, &c. and can as easily re-take the Government into their hands, as they did unwisely part with it: Though they Coyn their Money with the Popes Armes upon it, they also impale their own device of Liber|tas
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with it; and as a further mark of liberty, they constantly maintain at Rome an Embassador, but the Legate lives in greater State amongst them, and at their charge too, having Guards of Horse and Foot which continually attend him, and besides the charge of Vice-Legate and other Officers sends the Pope yearly a hundred thousand Crowns clear, which arises, from Impositions on Salt and Fish; the Post and the Secre|tary-Office for senceless Dispensations, &c. Their chief Trade and business is Silk, of which Note in marg: Trade. their is brought out of their own Territories (to every Fair) a million and two hundred thousand pound weight, besides 200000. by Strangers, all which is order'd in Bologna, and employs thirty thousand People, and their Hemp not less than 12000. besides little Doggs, Wash-balls, and Salsicci, which are the best in the World.
FLORENCE Stands close under the Appennines, Note in marg: Florence. and seems every way else, to have a large Plain en|clos'd with Hills; in which are an infinite number of Villas, and some of them very fine, as that of Poggio Imperiali, the great Dukes by the Town Wall, which has delicate Walks of Elci, fine Gardens, Fountains, &c. Near it is a fine Maille, set with Trees by the River which runs through the City; and on the other side of it, has a quantity of Meadow-ground well Wooded, with a Farm House upon it, where the G. Duke keeps his Dairy, and in the Summer is very plea|sant.
The G. Dukes Pallace stands within the Wall, Note in marg: Paluzzo del G. D. is very Magnificent, built of great rough stones Alla Rustica, has but one Court, the wings to the Front being still wanting; most of the Rooms are painted by the excellent hand of Pietro di Cortona,
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which with rich Hangings makes them appear very noble Apartments, especially those of the Cardinal Le|opoldo, where is the greatest and best collection of Pictures I ever saw: The Garden lyes most of it on the side of the Hill, but is nevertheless very pleasant, and has at the bottom a fine Parterre, environ'd with Cypress, and a cut of water, with a tall marble Foun|tain in the mid'st, the Bason of which, is of one stone, and is 36 Braeei about. In the Galleries belonging to the Old Pallace, are Note in marg: Gallery. kept the Dukes Curiosities, Treasure. &c. On each hand are the Statues, and over them the Pictures of the most famous men of former Ages, by the greatest Ma|sters; that of Brutus being unfinished by Mich. Angelo has these Verses by him writ under it.
Dum Bruti Effigiem Sculptor de marmore ducit. In mentem Sceleris venit & abstinuit. By the side of these Galleries are divers Rooms with variety of rarities: In some the Weapons and Armour of the greatest Captains in the World; a Musket and Pistol of massie-gold, secret Armes for Revenge, &c. the skin of a Horse, whose Main is 5. yards long; a Load-stone that takes up 60. pound of Iron, &c. In others little Pagan gods of Brass and Iron; the Head of Tiberius Cezar in a Turquoise as big as an Egge; Statues of the G. Dukes Ancestors in Porphry; a great Ebbony Cabbinet set with Stones, and within it, the Passion of our Saviour cut in Ivory, by Mich. Angelo; a Nail half Gold, half Iron; a lump of Gold as 'twas digg'd without Oar or Refining; shells of Mother of Pearl, with the Pearls growing to them; an Emerald in Embrio, half Stone, half Earth; a great Cabinet of
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Medials set so thick with precious Stones, that 'tis valu'd at five hundred thousand Crowns; a Unicorns Horn, great numbers of Cups Christal and Agat, &c. three Tables Inlaid with variety of choice Stones into Flowers, Birds, &c. the bigest of them the richest and finest in the World, being most of it Inlaid with Pearls, Rubies, Saphirs, Emralds, Cornelians, &c. In others, his Plate which is very considerable, one Service of it all of pure Gold, besides abundance of ancient Vessels of the same, Swards set with Diamonds, &c. a Saddle and Bridle of Gold set with Turquoise Stones; a Cup of one entire Eme|rald, the rich Bed-posts to his Marriage bed; a rare steel Cabinet design'd a Present to the King of France; the Antependium of an Altar set with Stones very rich, all of massie-gold, and these words with Rubies upon it, Cosmus 2. Dei Gracia Magnus Duae Etru|riae ex uoto, and it had been sent to Loreto had he recovered of his Sickness: From these Galleries runs a little Close one, to the Dukes Pallace for his Highnesses conveniency, being near half a mile long: Before this old Pallace, in the Piazza, stands the Statue of Cosmus the great, on Horse-back, in brass, and his Victo|ries express'd on the Pedestal, the Fountain of Nep|tune and Trytons, the two Gigantick Statues of Da|vid by Mich. Angelo, and Hercules killing Cacus by Bandinelli: In the Portico are those in brass of Per|seus Judith, and Rape of the Sabins in Marble: With|in this Pallace is also shown his rich Embroider'd Marriage-Coach, valu'd at 40000. Crowns. The Chappel of St. Lawrence is round, and Note in marg: S. Lorenzo. three parts finish'd, lin'd with polish'd Jasper of several colours, the Roof to be of Lapis Lazuli; about the middle of the Walls, Niches for all the Statues of the Dukes, which are to be of brass gilded, with Cushions of great value, and Crowns before
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them, set with Jewels, as appears by those al|ready done; below them, are round it, the Armes of all his Citys, with their Names and Motto's in Calce|donia; the Altar and Tabernacle have all the Mate|rials that Art or Nature can furnish to adorn it; the four Pillars are of Christal, their Capitels of Massie|gold, and the rest of it proportionable. The Church, to which this Chappel adjoyns, has two Note in marg: Church. Brazen Pulpets much esteem'd, being the work of Do|natello: In the Sacristy are the four Statues of Day, Night, Aurora, and the Evening, said to be made by Mich. Angelo, but much to be doubted: Above in the Cloister is kept the famous Library of Manuscripts, esteem'd the best next to the Vatican.
Upon this Bridge are four Statues, repre|senting Note in marg: Ponte Trinita. Tri|nita. the four Seasons of the year, said to be made by Mich. Angelo, and I believe the Bridg it self, being the neatest I ever saw; the Arches so extended, that at a little distance they seem almost streight, and without any bending; in the Piazza (be|fore it) stands the Porphry Statue of Justice.
The Demo on the outside is crusted with Note in marg: II Duomo. white, black, and red Marble, the Steeple by it of the same, not wanting the least Stone, or any of its first Ornaments: The Church within (except the Pavement) has nothing worth taking notice of, only that its Cu|pola was the first that ever was made, and serv'd Mich. Angelo for a pattern for that of St. Peters in Rome.
S. MICHELE: Round about this Church are the Note in marg: S. Michele. Statues of St. Thomas, St. Matthew, St. George, St. Peter, &c. very much esteem'd.
In the Baptistery by the Domo, is the Statue of Magdalen, by Donatello, and the doors to Note in marg: II Battisterio. Battiste|rio.
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this little Church are valued above all the rest, being the History of the Bible cut in brass, by Lorenzo Cion, who was his whole life about it. In the Annunciata is the famous Picture of Ma|donna Note in marg: Annunciata del Sacco, by Andrea del Sarto, and in the Piazza the brass Statue of Ferdinand on Horse-back.
In this Church, Sa. Croce, the Pulpit is of rare Bas|sorelieuo, Note in marg: S a. Croce. cut out of white Marble, and at the entrance stands the Tomb of Mich. Angelo, having Archi|tecture, Sculpture, and Painting, in the Figures of Women sitting and lamenting upon it, and his own Busto above them.
The great Dukes Court has all the great Officers Note in marg: Court. that's usual in other Soveraigns Courts; but the most in view are his two Secretaries of State, his two Privy-Councellors, his sixty Gentlemen of his Bed-chamber, his eight Escuyers, and his twenty-four Pages.
His Highnesse going abroad, is constantly attended Note in marg: Guards. by a Troop of Germans, and a Guard of Halbertiers, several Coaches, and in every respect the equipage of a King.
The only Order of Knight-hood in this Court, is that of Note in marg: Knights of St. Stephen. St. Stephen, whereof the great Duke is grand Master, in imitation of that of Maltha, and like that none can be admitted but upon the same proofs of Gentility: The number of the Knights is at least 700. dispers'd all over Italy, but oblig'd to serve several years in his Highnesses Gallies that they may be capable of Com|mendums: The Revenue of the Order is about 200000. Crowns, most of it at the G. Dukes dispose, the rest in private Families: Their place of Residence, Pisa.
In the Government the G. Duke is absolute, but yet Note in marg: Government. Govern|ment. allows them a Senate in shew of Liberty, which consists of 40. Senators, all chosen by himself, and never act
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contrary to his Will: 'Tis accounted very Honourable, because they have the priviledge of being cover'd be|fore the Duke, and have generally the best Employ|ments of the City, and Governments in Toscany con|ferr'd on them: In the Dukes absence, the Auditor Fiscal, a kind of Lord Mayor, does govern. The G. Duke Taxes no Lands, but the Product of Note in marg: Revenue. them, so that no Horse or Beast, House or Ground, can be sold, or Daughter Marry'd, but in every 100. Crowns, seaven Crowns three quarters must be paid to his Highness; his whole Revenue being annually 1200000. Crowns which arises thus,
Le Dogane di tutto il suo Stato 200000 Gabelle delle Porte 150000 Della Contratazione 200000 Dalle Farine 150000 Dalle Deccime 100000 Beni Stabili 100000 Dal Sale 50000 Avanzi di Magistrati 50000 Appalte di Forni 30000 Dal Tabacco 25000 Aquavita 20000 Posta 30000 Carta 15000 Assignamenti diversi 50000 His principal Citadel in Florence is very considera|ble, Note in marg: Strength. having in it an Armory of four large Rooms, wherein is Armes for 80000. Men, all in excellent order; and in his whole State he has 26. Garrisons, in all which (in times of Peace) are but 2482. men; but he has besides these, the Train'd-Bands, which
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amount to 3000. Horse, 65000. Foot; and the Citys of Florence, Siena, and the Countrys some miles about them, which are disarm'd for the Dukes security, would make upon occasion 20000. more: The Officers are paid by his Highness, and the Soldiers have some pri|viledges: His Troop of Life-guard consists of a hun|dred Germans, whose pay is three Giulio's a day, their Horses kept, and Free-quarter; his Guard of Halbertiers are the same number, and have five Crowns a moneth, with several other advantages; he has also a Guard of Reform'd Officers, Italians, whose pay is 14. Crowns a moneth, and the Maestro di Camera is al|ways their Captain: The Captains of the several Guards have 1000. Crowns a year, the common Soldiers a Giulio a day; which pay, what it wants of other Princes, is recompenc'd by its certainty, and little or no de|ductions; some heing paid every week, others every moneth punctually. His Intrest is Spanish, loves the English, and has a Note in marg: Intrest. perfect aversion for the French, as all Wise men natu|rally have.
PISTOIA Is not now considerable. Note in marg: Pistoia.
LUCCA, Is a pretty Town near as good as Florence, Note in marg: Lucca. paved and built much after the same manner; the For|tifications very regular, fac'd with Brick; the Rampart exceeding large, set with Trees, like Antwerp, and like it stands clear from Houses, and in a flat, but Moun|tains at some distance on every side: The Churches are least considerable, but in the Augustins they shew a Hole, where an Unbeliever was suck'd in alive, for throwing stones at the Virgin; and in another lyes Bu|ryed Richard King of England, who dyed in his Pilgrimage.
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They have four or five little Towns more in their Note in marg: Strength. whole State; and 'tis said, they may raise in their small Territories 15000. Men.
'Tis Govern'd by a great Counsel of Citizens which Note in marg: Government. Govern|ment. are changed every year, and a Confaloniero, as most of the other Citys in Italy have.
The constant Revenue of this little Republick, is Note in marg: Revenue. esteemed to he near 200000. Crowns a year.
PISA, An ancient Town, stands in a Marshy place, Note in marg: Pisa. has a good River runs through part of it, and an A|quaduet upon Arches, that brings water from Moun|tains four miles distant, and has nothing else remark|able, except the Camposanto be, which is made of Holy Earth brought from Jerusalem in 50. Galleys.
LEGORNE Next to Florence, the most conside|rable Note in marg: Legorne. in the G. Dukes State, is excellently fortified both to Land and Sea, where it has a Mole of greater length than Genoa, and by it the fine Statue of Fer|dinand the First, with four Slaves in Brass at his feet: Being a free Port, 'tis fill'd with Strangers, of which the Jews are not a less number than 5000; of English Merchants Families there are about ten; as many of Hollanders, but many more French of all sorts.
'Tis the Magazine of the Streights, and has a good Note in marg: Trade. Trade, particularly with England, who carry thither Cloath, Lead, Tin, Iron, Spices, and Herrings; the only Commodities to be had there, is Silk, Wine and Oyl.
It has two Governors, the one Millitary, the other Note in marg: Government. Govern|ment. Civil; the first is General Borri, the latter Marchese Medici: His Highness constantly keeps four Galleys, esteem'd the best in the Mediterranean, and several little Ships Crusing against the Turks.
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SIENA Is very near as large and beautiful as Note in marg: Siena. Florence, the Streets neatly paved with a sort of little Bricks set edg ways, and being built on a rising ground, are always clean; the Piazza is very spacious, and the Domo is a very noble Church, all of white and black Marble both within and without; the Floor In-laid in Historical Figures, by extraordinary Masters; the Roof Azure, sprinkled with little Stars of Gold; the Li|brary by the side of it curiously painted in Fresco, by Pietro Perugino: 'Tis one of the best Towns of the G. Dukes State, and speaks the best Italian of all Italy.
MONTEFIASCONE, Is remarkable for the Tomb Note in marg: Montefiascone. Montefias|cone. of the Drunken German Bishop, who kill'd himself here, with drinking this excellent Wine, and has therefore this Epitaph writ by his Man, who had Orders to mark the doors as he went with Est three times, where he found the best,
Est est est propter nimium est Dominus meus mortuus est. In this Country the Duke of Parma has a fine House, Note in marg: Caprarola. Scituate on the side of a Hill, which gives it a Pro|spect of Rome, though 40. miles distant.
VITERBO, Is a pretty little Town with many Foun|tains Note in marg: Viterbo. in it; from thence (in the Summer-time) to Rome, the Air is esteem'd Unhealthful.
ROME, As in other things, in its Scituation, ex|cels Note in marg: Rome. all other Citys, having so many agreeable Hills in and about it, that whether pursuing pleasure, or busi|siness, a Man has several times, every day, the prospect of this fine Town and Country: The Figure of it is almost round, the River Tyber running through it,
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and five Rivelets, or great branches more of water by Aqueducts brought to it, which supplys such a number of Marble Fountains, that there is no Street nor Court where they do not run perpetually; and so many and admira|ble are the Churches, Pallaces, and Gardens, that 'tis impossible (at least for me) exactly to describe them.
S. GIO. LATERANO, Of which the Pope is Note in marg: S. Gio. Laterano. La|terano. Bishop, and therefore has the Precedency of all other Churches; is very large and beautiful, stands upon Monte Celio, one of the seaven Hills; was first built by Constantine the Great, and was formerly the place of the Popes Residence; the Roof is richly Gilded, has much good Painting, the Pillars to the side-Altars ve|ry fine and uniform, and so is the great Tabernacle; in which is shut the wooden Altar, St. Peter and his Successors, in time of Persecution, carryed about with them to say Mass at; and therefore is so Sacred, that none but his Holiness himself can Celebrate at it; and to make it more estimable, there is also the Heads of St. Peter and St. Paul, which are shown upon Festi|vals; the Altar of the Sacrament is also very remark|able, having a Tabernacle of rare polish'd Stones, and four Brass gilded Pillars that anciently were Saturns; it has the name from the Table it includes, on which our Saviour eat the last Paschal Lamb, being for cer|tain the very same; besides divers other most precious Relicks, as the Smock and hair of the B. Vergin, somthing of the like nature of Mary Magdalen; the Cloath with which our Saviour wiped the Disciples Feet; the Water and Blood that came out of His Side; some of the Barly-bread He multiplied; a Shoulder of St. Laurence; a Tooth of St. Peter, &c. In the Cloister, the pierced Porphry Chair, on which the Pope
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is set amongst other Ceremonies at his Creation: The Tomb of Cardinal Respone, who being yet alive, has erected it with this fancy, Death holding his Grave-stone, and Time carrying his Coffin: In the Porch is the Statue in Brass of Henry the 4th. of France, who re|stored or gave them part of their Revenue: In the great Piazza, before it, stands the tall Obelisk of 100. foot high, with Hierogliphicks on it, brought from the Circus Maximus.
BAPTISTERY of CONSTANTINE, Joyns Note in marg: Baptistery of Constantine. Constan|tine. in a manner to this Church, wherein that Emperour was Christned; 'tis round, the Well or Font rail'd a|bout with Marble; the Canopy or Tabernacle over it, supported with noble Porphry Pillars, and the Roof painted with the History of his Conversion, Conquests, &c.
SCALA SANTA, Is a Building on purpose for the Holy Stairs which our Saviour went up Note in marg: Scala Santa. to Pilate, and some can see the very drops of Blood and Tears still upon them He then shed, which little Grates protect: 'Tis a very fair white Marble Stair-case, and has on each hand others to re|turn down upon, when they have gone up that upon their knees; at the top of it is a little Chappel, called the Sancta Sanctorum, there being Christs Picture that was made by an Angel, and formerly his Prepuce, or Fore-skin, which now Hallows another place.
S. PETERS, Is the second Church in esteem in Rome, Note in marg: St. Peters. and first in the World for Beauty and Architecture, in|finitely surpassing in both, either the Temple of Solo|mon, or that of Diana at Ephesus, and to Bramante and Mich. Angelo is attributed the glory of it, but principally to the last: The out-side is of Free-stone, the Frontis-pice supported with vast Pillars; over which is a row of Balconies or Pavillions, where the Pope is
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Crown'd; and from thence (on several Festivals) Blesses and Curses; on the top of all is our Saviour and his Twelve Apostles, Statues of ten foot long; and below them, upon the Balustres of the two Stately Portico's (that enclose the great Piazza, in form of an Ampki-Theatre) stand an Army of Saints; in the middle, the Guglia of 100. foot long, Dedicated to Augustus; and on each side a great Fountain: The approaches to it is up 24. Marble steps; the entrance at 5. Doors, whereof one is Holy, the two middle-most covered with Brass in Historical Figures: The Porch is 289. foot long, and 44. broad; the Roof gilded, and Floor paved with wite Marble; and at one end of it, the Statue of Constantine on Horse-back, by Bernino; the Church it self 520. foot in length, and 380. foot broad; the top of it divided into little gilded squares, with a Rose in each; the Pavement inlaid Marble; the walls and sides of the Pillars (except the very mid|dle) crusted with the same, well polish'd, adorn'd with many little white Figures of Angels, the moral Vir|tues, fine Tombs, Altars, Chappels, &c. The Cupola is very large, being 170. paces in compass, lined with Mosaick work that describes Heaven, supported by four great Pillars, in which are the Statues in Niches of Veronica, St. Helen, Andrew, and Longinus, all Gigaintick, and the last of Bernino's hand; under it stands the high Altar, whose four famous Brass Ser|pentine-Pillars were likewise made by him, which with|out the Canopy, weigh 100000. pound: 'Tis a very noble thing, but not sufficient to excuse the Sacriledge of robbing the Pantheon for it; before this Altar is a Vault rail'd and hung about with Silver Lamps; and in it lyes half St. Peter and St. Paul; at the further end of all is S. Peters old Wooden Chair lockt up in a View document image [24] containing page [45] Document Images
brass case, expos'd only on its Feast-days, supported by the four Doctors of the Church, of the same Mettal gilt, by rare Bernino's hand; and over it an Host of Angels, with a Glory Artificially made of yellow horn; and in the midst of it, the Holy Ghost upon wing, hovering; on each side are the Tombs of Urban the 8th. and Paul the 3d. and under the latter, lyes the fine white Marble Statue of Youth, which for being Ravish'd by a Spaniard, wears now a Drapery of brass: On the side of the Church, not far from the great Al|tar, under a Canopy of State, in a sitting posture is the brazen Statue of Jupiter, that stood anciently in his Temple, and now has the good fortune to represent St. Peter, and be as much Worship'd as ever, none passing but kiss and put their heads under his feet, not even the Cardinals, his hand lifted up that seem'd to throw the Thunder, now is suppos'd to bless, and the other makes a shift to hold the Keys: The most consi|derable Reliques are the Spear that Wounded Christs Side, the Handkerchief He wiped his Face with; a piece of the Holy Cross, some of the Hay that He lay on in the Manger; the great Pinces or Plyers, with which they took the Primitive Saints in pieces; the Head of Thomas Becket of Canterbury, with as ma|ny Arms, Leggs, Ribs, &c. as would Re-build him at the Resurrection. The Church is Vaulted underneath, wherein are the Tombs of divers Cardinals and Popes, and amongst them, that of Adrian the 4th. an English|man: The maintenance for this Fabrick is about 20000. l. Sterling, annually.
S. PAOLO Was Built by Constantine, is 120. paces Note in marg: S. Paolo. long, and 80. broad; the round marble Pillars which are about 100. were taken from Antoninus his Bathes; it is one of the four Churches that have Holy Doors;
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and under the high Altar lyes the other half of the bodyes of St. Peter and St. Paul: The Chappel of the Sacrament is very fine, but the Eloquent Crucifix that talk'd with St. Bridget, is of all other things most wonderful; the considerable Reliques are St. Paul's Chain, the Head of the Samaritan, an Arm of St. Ann, a Finger of St. Nicholas, &c. The doors of brass in History.
Sta. MARIA MAGIORE, Stands upon Monte Es|quilino, Note in marg: S a. Maria Magiore. is the fourth Church that has Holy Doors; the Pillars of the Portico, and within, are all of Por|phry, of one entire piece; the Roof gilded; on each side of it two neat Chappels, that cost near two millions of Crowns, of Sixtus Quintus and Paulus Quintus; in the first is kept our Saviours Cribb, inclos'd in Sil|ver, and in the other, the Picture of the Virgin, made by St. Luke, which a 1000. years agoe (being carried about) slopt a great Plague; but the fine Statues, Jas|per Pillars, and Painting of the Cupola, by Guido Rheni, are nevertheless of much more value: Before the great entrance into this Church, stands the tall white Marble Corinthian Pillar, of the Temple of peace, with the B. Virgin in Brass, gilded upon it; and at the other end, an Obelisk with Hieroglyphicks, which part fronting to the City, is Re-built and Beautified by this present Pope Clement. It has Relicks enough to fill a Charnel House, not only of Saints themselves, but of their Companions, and amongst the most pre|cious, some of the Vesture of Thomas Becket of Can|terbury.
S. LORENZO, Built by Constantine, has a piece of the Grate, and the entire Stone, upon which S. Lau|tence Note in marg: S. Lorenzo. was Brotld, set in Christal; before which, who|ever Prays, frees a Soul out of Purgatory: It has also
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one of the Stones that was thrown at St. Stephen, which are the greatest Rarities to be observ'd in this Church, which I mention, because one of the seaven.
S. SEBASTIANO, One of the Seaven Churches al|so, Note in marg: S. Sebastiano. Sebasti|ano. is famous for the Calacumes under it, wherein are Bury'd in the Walls, 274000. Christians that were Persecuted and Martyr'd by the Roman Emperors: The place be|ing a Meander of several Miles, they there met with security to exercise their Religion; the several windings were occasion'd by their digging of Earth thence, to mix with their Morter, &c. for the Building of Rome. This Church has also a pretty quantity of Relicks; the body of its Patron, and his Figure in a dying posture, by Bernino's hand; but the principal is the Stone on which Christ stood in the High-way, when he appeared to S. Peter in the place where now is the Chappel Domine quo vadis, and left the print of his Feet up|on it.
Sta. GROCE in GIERUSALEMME Is Built like|wise Note in marg: S. Croce in Gierusalemme. Gierusa|lemme. by Constantine, in the place, and out of the Ruins of Venus her Temple, of which a good part still remains. Is the 7th. Church, and has its name by reason of the Holy Earth, brought from Gerusalemme; upon which stands a Chappel, into which no Woman is to enter, quite contrary to its former Dedication: The Relicks here are extraordinary, having a Vessel of the Blood of our Saviour, one of the Nails and Title of his Cross, one of the Pence he was sold for, the Spunge that he had with Vinegar; St. Thomas his Finger that toucht his Side, &c. The Picture at the High Al|tar of Rubens painting.
MADONNA del POPOLO Has the greatest Note in marg: Modonna del Popolo. priviledges, next to the aforesaid seaven Churches, and several fine Ornaments and Statues, as those of Da|niel
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and Habakkuck, by Bernino; that of Jonas by Raphael Urbin, much esteem'd, being the only Statue he ever made; the fine Chappel of Chigi, &c. of his Architecture too. In the high Altar is preserv'd the Navel of our Saviour, some Milk and Attire of the Virgin, some Dust of St. John Baptist, &c. and in the place where it now stands, was formerly Nero's Urn, which was the occasion of Building this Church, as all the Popes Bulls and Indulgences granted it do testifie, Nero's ashes had perpetually a crew of roaring Devils about them which were so mischievous, that they lamed and suffocated all people that pass'd near the place, which oblig'd Pope Paschal to order a three days Fast; and upon the third night, the Virgin came her own self to his Bed-side, and bid him throw Ne|ro's Urn into the Tyber, and build her a Church in the place, which the next day, in a solemn procession of all the Cardinals was perform'd, the Pope laying the first Stone of the Foundation, which set all the Devils on howling, and put them to flight: Before it stands another Obelisk with Herogliphicks on it, and in it is also the famous picture of the Madonna, made by St. Luke.
TRE FONTANE, Is a pretty Church, wherein are Note in marg: Tre Fontane. Fon|tane. three Fountains made by St. Pauls Head, leaping there 3. times after it was cut off, and three stone heads to shew the places exactly; there is also one of the Pillars, upon which he was Executed, and a Picture of St. Peters Crucifixtion, by Guido Rheni: Close by this Church are two others, under the one of them, ten thousand Martyrs lye that Dioclesian caused at once to be slain in that place, after they had finish'd the Fabrick of his Baths; and in the other is the Head of Anastasius, which the whole Councel of Nice affirm can do Mira|cles,
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as cast out Devils, cure the Sick, &c. and for this reason, this place is the most holy after the seaven Churches aforesaid.
S. BARTOLOMEI stands in the place of Note in marg: S. Bartolomei. Bartolo|mei. Esculapius; his Temple has the Tabernacle sup|ported by 4Single illegible letter fine Porphry Pillars, some Chappels, &c. painted by Carraccio: The Island where it is, made by Corne, the Rabble threw into the River, in the time of the ancient Romans.
S. ONOFRIO: In this Church is the Tomb of Note in marg: S. Onofrio. Torquato Tasso, and in the Cloister, the Chamber where he dyed, with some of his Furniture and Manu|scripts: Here is good paintings of BaldSingle illegible letterssar di Siena and Hannibal Carraccio; and from hence is an in|comparable prospect of Rome.
S. PIETRO in MONTORIO, The place where Note in marg: S. Pietro in Montorio. St. Peter was Crucified is a neat Chappel set about on the outside with Pillars, and in it his Statue: In the Church is the Transfiguration of our Saviour, by Raphael, said to be the best he ever made.
S. MARIA in TRASTEUERE A pretty Church, Note in marg: S. Maria in Trasteuere. the first that was built in Rome, has a fine Piazza before it, the Roof richly gilded, supported with marble Pillars, the Tabernacle with Porphry; stands on the very same ground that formerly did the Taberna meritoria, where the lame Soldiers were relieved, and where the Fountain of Oyl, as they say, did miracu|lously foretel Christs Unction, as the present Inscrip|tion.
Dum tenet emeritus miles sum magna Taberna Sed dum virgo tenet me major nuncupor & sum: Tunc oleum fluo fignans magnificam pietatem Christi Nascentis, nunc trado petentibus ipsam.
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S. FRANCESCO in RIPA GRANDE: Is the Note in marg: S. Francesco in Ripa grande. place where all the Boats and Merchandize Arrives, that comes to Rome, and formerly the abode of great S. Francis; in this Church the Piety is by CaSingle illegible lettera[...]co.
S. MARIA del CARMINE: Has the E[...] richly Note in marg: S. Maria del Carmine. gilded, the Pillars entire, of reddish Marble, the Ta|bernacle supported by four graind, and colour'd like ex|cellent wood.
S. GRISOGONO Is a pretty Church, in which Note in marg: S. Grisogono. Griso|gono. lyes Robert Arch-Bishop of York, and Cardinal of this place; the Pillars of the high Altar of a Stone different from all I have seen.
S. MARIA del HORTO, Has a good Front, and Note in marg: S. Maria del Horto. Pictures to the Altars of good hands, stands in the ground given to Mutius Scevola for a reward of his incredible courage.
S. CECILLIA, Is a Church that was formerly her House, and under the high Altar lyes her Effigies in Note in marg: S. Cecillia. white Marble, with many Lamps burning about it; at the entrance is seen divers antient Statues yet entire; there also lyes the body of an English Cardinal.
S. SPIRITO, Is an Hospital of great Revenue, where|in Note in marg: S. Spirito. there is two Churches; and that of Sta. Tecla only for the Women: In the Summer there is seldom fewer than 700. sick people, 300. Girles, 1000. lit|tle Children in the Nurses armes, and 100. little Boys which go in blew Coats: The Sacristy is very fine, both as to its Building and Plate, of which they have a great quantity, besides Relicks of greater value, as three Fingers of St. Paul, &c. The occasion of Building this Hospital, and giving it this Name, was, that Innocent the 3d. heard a voyce that bid him rise, and go and Fish; and casting a Net accordingly into the Tyber, he catcht 400. Children, and being amaz'd
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at such a draught, praid for Illumination, and pre|sently a Model of this House was shown him.
In S. GIACOMO SCOSSA CAVALLI, Note in marg: S. Giacomo Scossa Cavalli. Ca|valli. are the Stones whereon our Saviour was plac'd the day of his Circumcision, and that on which Abraham would have Sacrific'd Isaac; they were a Single illegible letteroken from St. Helen to the Pope, and should have been put into St. Peters, but the Stones would go no further than to this place, nor the Horses carry them, and were therefore forc'd to build this Church on purpose: This Truth is ex|press'd in the very name as well as attested by all Ca|tholicks.
S. MARIA TRANSPONTINA Is a very neat Note in marg: S. Maria Transpontina. Transpon|tina. Church, and has a fine new Tabernacle: In it are the Pillars, at which St. Peter and St. Paul were publickly scourg'd, being the same that serv'd other Malefactors, and stood in the Foro Romano.
S. ANGELO, Is a litte Church Dedicate to the An|gel, Note in marg: S. Angelo. Pope Gregory imagin'd he saw sheathing of his Sword when the Plague ceas'd.
S. ATANASIO, Is a Church of very good Archi|tecture, Note in marg: S. Atanasio. with a Celledge near it for instruction of the Grecians, who have the Jesuits for their Masters, and as they are ripe, are sent into their own Country.
S. TRINITA del MONTE, Is a handsome Church Note in marg: S. Trinita del Monte. and Convent of French, which has many Ornaments, besides paintings of Daniel de Volterra, Z[...]ch[...]o, and original Pictures of their French King, &c. Their Gar|den also is very pleasant, from this place there being an admirable prospect of Rome.
S. CARLO in CORSO, Is a very fair Church with Note in marg: S. Carlo in Corso. fine Altars, but most remarkable for its Saints, none but Mistresses, and such as want them, frequenting it, of which it has every Holy day a very great Congre|gation.
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S. GIACOMO de gl INCURABILE: Is a Church Note in marg: St. Giacomo Giaco|mo de gl Incurabili. In|curabili. and Hospital for such only as are not curable: At one end of it is an Octangular Chappel, very pretty, with divers Ornaments Bassorilieno, &c.
S. ROCCO, Has two Hospitals belongs to it, one Note in marg: S. Rocco. for Men, another for Women; and in the Church is a neat Marble Chappel.
S. AMBROGIO, A Little Church, has also an Hos|pital Note in marg: S. Ambrogio. Ambro|gio. for the Lombards; the Picture at the high Altar by Tadeo Zuccaro.
S. GIRALOMO de gli SCHIAVONI, A Titular Note in marg: S. Giralomo. Giralo|mo. amongst the 70. to the Cardinals, is peculiar to the Sclavonians, and has a good facciata.
S. LORENZO in LUCINA, Built on the Ruine of Note in marg: S. Lorenzo in Lucina. a Temple to Diana, has therefore that name; in it every Saturday night is Musick, and a Sermon in praise of the Virgin.
S. SILVESTRO, Has in it the miraculous picture Note in marg: S. Silvestro. Christ made of himself, and sent to the King of Soria, Abagarus, and here also is the head of St. John Baptist.
S. ANDREA del FRATE, Now repairing, for|merly Note in marg: S. Andrea del Frate. belong'd to the Scotch Fryers.
S. GIROLAMO della CARITA, Is a Church and Note in marg: S. Girolama Girola|ma della Carita. Society of Priests which live in Community upon their own expences.
S. MARIA in VIA, The Title of Cardinal Bellar|mine, Note in marg: S. Maria in Via. repair'd by him; is one of the most Sacred Churches in Rome, and built on this occasion: In a Well by Cardinal CapSingle illegible lettercci's Stable, was by accident fallen, or thrown in, the Picture of the Virgin, which though very deep, yet the Water swell'd to that Degree, that (in the Night) they lifted it out again, and carried it into the aforesaid Stable, where the
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Grooms found it floting, and the Cardinal their Ma|ster showing it with great Reverence to Pope Innocent the 4th. he order'd the Building of this Church; the Well yet remains, and is made more worthy the Peoples Devotion, by having added to it that very same piece of the Well whereon our Saviour sat when he talk'd with the Samaritan.
S. APOSTOLI, Dedicated to the 12. Apostles, Built Note in marg: S. Apostoli. by Constantine; in it is a Marble Statue, said to be made by Mich. Angelo.
S. MARIA in VIALATA, Is built on the Ruins of Note in marg: S. Maria in Vialata. the Tryumphal Arch of Gordian; the Front of it very noble, upon Pillars, over one another, the Portico open, with tall Iron Rails, the Faciata, the Architecture of Pietro di Cortona: In it is the Oratory of St. Luke, where he writ the Acts of the Apostles, and another Picture of the Virgin, made by him, which does as great Miracles as the rest of his Paintings.
S. MARCELLO, In which is the Chappel of the Note in marg: S. Marcello. Crucifix, which being carryed in procession, caused a great Plague to cease: In this Church also, besides ma|ny other Relicks, is the Body of the Soldier that pierced our Saviours Side: The Pulpit is very pretty, being white Marble, supported by an Angel sitting on a blew Globe spangled with Stars, made by Bernino: 'Tis built in the place, and on the Ruins of the Temple of Iside, an Egyptian Goddess.
S. MARCO, Is a little Church where that Evan|gelist Note in marg: S. Marco. lyes Buryed, and where he was Consecrated Priest, and made Pope too.
S. MARIA di LORETO, Is a very neat Church, built round, with a noble Cupola, adorn'd with divers Note in marg: S. Maria di Loreto. paintings of Zuccaro, &c.
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S. QUIRICO, Cast out Devils out of the Daugh|ter Note in marg: S. Quirico. of DiocleSingle illegible letterian, and in reward, had a House given him, where now stands thi Church.
MADONNA de'MONTI, Is the Architecture of Note in marg: Madonna de Monti. G[...]m [...]llSingle illegible letter Porta, built on this occasion, herSingle illegible letter be|ing once Single illegible letter Convent, they hSingle illegible letterd left on an old Wall the picture of the Virgin· against which was laid a Dung|hill, &c. Single illegible letternd she being disgusted, to be so affronted by extraordinary Miracles, made her self be taken notice of, to that degree, that the People in General Club'd to the building of her this Church, which now their Cha|rity maintains, and as a perpetual mark of their De|votion, every year offer her a Challice and four wax Tapers.
IL GIESU Is the Jesuits Church, a Majestick Note in marg: Il Giesu. Building, design'd by Vignola, their Sacristy so rich, that as they confess themselves 'tis worth 25000. l. Sterl. and their Hangings for it of so great value, that they cannot tell which is worth most, them or their Plate: Under the high Altar lyes St. Ignatius their Founder, and by him the great Bellarmine.
S. MARIA SOPRA MINERVA Is built upon the Note in marg: S. Maria Sopra So|pra Mineva. Mine|va. Ruins of Minerva's Temple, which was erected there by Pompey; it has Statues and divers Pictures by fa|mous Masters in its Chappels, particularly, one of our Saviour, by Mich. Angelo; before it stands a short Guglia, with Herogliphicks, mounted on an Elephant: The Society of this Church (five times a year) give Portions to young Girles that want Fortunes, a Charity his Holiness takes such pleasure in, that he oft comes himself to see the Procession, and suffers them one by one to kiss his Feet.
S. IGNATIO LOIOLA Is a noble Structure ad|joyning, Note in marg: S. Ignatio Loiola. and for the use of the Roman Colledge, but is not yet quite finish'd.
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S. FRANCESCO SAVERIO Is a little Church Note in marg: S. Francesco Saverio. belonging to the former, wherein the Jesuits exhort Sinners to lash themselves, and the Candles being put out, they wisely follow their advice, and scourge their naked backs, or what other part they please with knot|ted Whip-cords, which the Charitable Fathers always supply them with, let the number be never so great.
COLEGIO ROMANO Is a magnificent Building, Note in marg: Colegio Romano. the Windows, Corniches, and Ornaments of the Doors, Marble; within the Court, it has noble Portico's, great Rooms, and amongst them the Gallery of Father Kirker, full of Curiosities, and above all, two Basilisks, or Creatures exactly like their Description, a Sheckle of Silver with an Hebrew Inscription, and Manna falling into a Cup engraven upon it; the Anatomy of a Child three moneths old, which was Christned; several sorts of Clocks and Mathematical experiments, and the fine Figure of a Boy catching a Grass-hopper, by Bernino: The Fathers of this Colledge are 140. Jesuites, which instruct and discipline 2000. Youths, of which few or none are lodged by them: To teach them to Preach, they are sent upon Holy-days to all parts of the City, where like our Quakers, they get upon Bulks, or some high place, and Baul for an hour or two to the Rabble about them.
S. BARTOLOMEO e S. ALLESSANDRO de Note in marg: S. Bartolomeo Bartolo|meo e S. Allessandro de Bergamaschi. Berga|maschi. BERGAMASCHI Is a little Church Dedicate also to a third Saint, Maccute, an English Bishop that lived 1100. years agoe; and the place where it stands is called after his name: The painting in Fresco is by Polydore.
S. MARIA ROTONDA, Formerly Pantheon, Note in marg: S. Maria Rotonda. Dedicate to the Mother of the Gods, and all the Gods, but now varied to the Mother of God; and all the
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Gods, or Saints, and because in the Heathens time, it was full of Idols, that it might not now be altogether without Furniture, Pope Boniface the 4th. carryed into it 28. Cart loads of Bodys he took out of several Church-yards, and made Holy: But which is more Or|nament to it, there is Buryed famous Raphael Urbin, with this Distich under his Effigies, by Bembo,
Ille hic est Raphael timuit quo sospite vinci, Rerum magna parens, & moriente Mori. The cover of this admirable Structure being of Co|rinthian Brass, Pope Urban the 8th. took it away to make Cannons of it, and for some other uses, a thing, that all the Barbarous Nations that had sack'd Rome, never toucht; its Dedication, making it to all People and Religious Sacred, except the Catholick: Before this Church is a square Piazza.
S. MARIA MADDALENA Is a Church with a Note in marg: S. Maria Maddalena. neat front.
GLI ORFANELLI Is a Church of the Archi|tecture Note in marg: Gli Orfanelli. Orfa|nelli. of Volterra, joyning to it, a Colledge for Or|phans.
S. EUSTACHIO Was Built by Constantine; the Note in marg: S. Eustachio. S. Peter in Fresco by Perino Vaga.
S. LUIGI de'FRANCESI Was built by Lewis Note in marg: S. Luigi de Francesi: the 9th. the Architecture of the Front Giacomo della Porta; the Pictures are of Caravaggio, Bassano, &c.
S. AGOSTINO, Where there is another Picture Note in marg: S. Agostino. of our Lady, supposed to be made by St. Luke; most certain, it did stop a great Plague, being carried in Procession by Innocent the 8th. Here is also a Picture of Raphaels, and a Statue of St. Ann, by Sansovinus, that are mightily esteem'd, besides others by Volterra, Caravaggio, and the Fresco by Polydore.
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Sa. AGNESE Is the Architecture of Borromino; Note in marg: Sa. Agnese. a Church not large but most Majestick, having a Cu|pola and a Steeple ala moderna on each side of it; within, adorn'd with Marbles, Bassirilevi, &c. 'Twas built, and in this very place, because Sa. Agnese was brought hither to be Ravish'd, it being then a place for all Manner of sports, but had her Virginity miracu|lously preserv'd by her Guardian Angel.
S. ANTONIO de'PORTUGHESI Is a Church Note in marg: S. Antonio de Portughesi. Portu|ghesi. and Hospital peculiar to that Nation, of which the Em|bassador is always the Head or Chief.
S. APOLINARE Is a Church wherein there is most Note in marg: S. Apolinare excellent Musick, and belonging to it, a Colledge of Germans founded upon occasion of Martin Luthers Heresie.
S. GIACOMO de'SPAGNUOLI Is a Church and Note in marg: S. Graiomo de Spagnu. oli. Hospital for none but Spaniards; in it is a Picture by Annibal Carraccio, Sansovinus, with some Sculpture, by Bernino.
S. MARIA del'ANIME Is a Church and Hospital Note in marg: S Maria del Anime. for the Flemmings: In the Chappels are Paintings of Baldassere da Siena, di Giulio Romano, &c. and on the great Altar, about the Picture of the Madonna, Souls painted by the life, adoring her.
S. MARIA della PACE Has not only a fine front, Note in marg: S. Maria della Pace. but is admirably adorn'd within, being full of Paintings and Statues of great Masters: The Sibills and Prophets in the Chappel of Chigi, being the work of Raphael Urbin, and the Statues of St. Peter and St. Paul, of Mich. Angelo: The occasion of building this Church was, that under the Po[...]co of a Former in this place, called S. Andrea, stood the Picture of our Lady, at which an enrag'd Gamester throwing Stones, and making her bleed in several places, as is yet plainly to be seen;
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this Image was held in greater Veneration than any, and Sixtus the 4th. praying to it, offer'd the Virgi to Build her a new Church here to her self if she would cease the Wars then in Italy, which according|ly succeeding, he perform'd his promise.
CHIESA NUOVA Is a very neat Church, the Roof Note in marg: Chiesa Nuova. Nu|ova. gilded and painted by Pietro di Cortona, with seve|ral other Pictures on the Altars of Carravaggio, Guido Rheni, Rubens, &c. Adjoyning to it is the Oratory wherein every Festival is admirable Musick: In this Church likewise, the Virgins Picture being wounded by a Blasphemer, did bleed abundantly.
S. MARTINO del MONTE, Is a neat Church, Note in marg: S. Martino del Monte. where the Pillars and Pedistals are all of new Marble, the Roof gilded and deserves to be of the first Rate.
SPEDALE de'VECCHI, Is something like Suttons Note in marg: Spedale de Vecchi. S. Gio Battista Bat|tista de Fiorentini. Fio|rentini. Hospital, where 400. Old men Eat in good Order.
S. GIO BATTISTA de'FIORENTINI. Is the Architecture of Mich. Angelo, and would have been like the Rotonda according to his Model that they shew, but the expence proving too great, 'twas chang'd and finish'd by Giacomo della Porta; it belongs to the Florentines who have built an Hospital by it for their Country-men.
S. BRIGIDA Is a little Church and Hospital for the Swedes, the Picture of our Lady, by Hannibal Note in marg: S. Brigida. Carraccio: This Saint is very remarkable, because our Lady at seaven years old appeared to her, and put a Crown upon her head, and at ten our Saviour him|self made her a visit.
S. TOMASO degl INGLESE Is a Church and Note in marg: S. Tomaso degi Inglese Colledge for Education of English Jesuits, Dedicated to Thomas Becket, founded by a Rich English man for an Hospital, and afterwards made a Seminary for the
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good of this Kingdom, by Gregory the 13th. On this Saints day, every year, all the English in Rome are treated by them.
S. MARIA di MONSERRATO Has a good Note in marg: S. Maria di Monserrato Front, an Hospital by it, both belonging to the Spa|niards.
S. LORENZO in DAMASO Is built on the Note in marg: S. Lorenzo in Damaso. Ruins of Pompeys Amphitheatre; the Roof gilded, the Pictures by Zuccaro di Vecchi, and Pietro di Cortona; the Fresco by Giuseppe and Pomerancio: In this Church (three times a week) are also Exhorta|tions to discipline their naked backs with knotted Whip|cords.
TRINITA di PONTE SISTO Is a Church and Note in marg: Trinita di Ponte Sisto. Hospital that entertains Pilgrims, and such as are re|covering, discharg'd from other Hospitals; of the for|mer, in the holy years, they have very great numbers, for most of which they provide Meat and Lodging for three days, the Cardinals, Prelates, and sometimes Popes themselves, washing their Feet and serving them at Table: The last holy year but this, according to their Books, they received four hundred and forty four thou|sand and five hundred Men, and five and twenty thou|sand and five hundred Women; in which croud, they believe Angels do sometimes come disguis'd, and under the Pilgrims leather Gorget conceal their Wings; there is also here once a week a Sermon to the Jews, which they are oblig'd to come and hear: The Picture at the Altar is by Guido Rheni.
S. MARIA del PIANTO Is so called because the Note in marg: S. Maria del Pianto. Image of our Lady on the Walls of the Church wept to see two men quarrel, and the one kill the other in her presence; which Picture is with great reverence now kept within the Church, gives a name and
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badge to the Order, and procur'd Alms large enough to Re-build it.
S. CARLO de'CATENARI Is a well-built Church, Note in marg: S. Carlo de Catenari. the Front very fine, the painting in it of Domeni|chini, Lanfranco, Andrea del Sarto, &c. Here like|wise, every Friday-night, People are invited to lash themselves.
S. ANDREA della VALLE Is one of the finest Note in marg: S. Andrea della Valle. Churches in Rome; within, large and Majestick, built upon the Ruins of Pompey's Theatre, has several neat Chappels, that of Strozzi, the Architecture of Mich. Angelo; the Painting by Lanfranco, and Domeni|chini.
S. STANISLAO, Is a little Church and Hospital, Note in marg: S. Stanislao. built by, and only for the use of the Polacks.
S. MARIA in PORTICO Is built in the place Note in marg: S. Maria in Portico. of Mars his Temple, where the ancient Romans held their Councels of War, and on the occasion of the Vir|gins sending Pope John the first her Picture, very richly set, made in Heaven, and brought by two glo|rious Angels, which being afterwards Stolne (in the time of Clement the 7th. by Bourbons Soldiers) and carryed into Spain, came back of it self, and when Paul the 2d. committed a Rape upon her, and lock'd her in his private Chappel, she then also escap'd to this her own Church: Leo the 10th. desiring Victory a|gainst the Turks, had this Image carryed in Procession and devoutly bare-foot follow'd it with all his Cardinals; the same did Paul the 3d. and in the same manner was the Plague stopt, 1656. for which last favor she had this new Habitation made her, and a perpetual Feast on the 17th. of July, the day of this Pictures Appa|rition.
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S. CATERINA de'FUNARI, A neat Church Note in marg: S. Caterina de'Funari. and Cloister for Nuns, wherein is also provision apart for such Women, as by Poverty or Discord forsake their Husbands; there are Paintings of Zuccaro, Annibal Carraccio, &c.
S. ANGELO in PESCARIA, Built, and so call|ed, Note in marg: S. Angelo in Pescaria. upon occasion of St. Michael the Arch-Angel's ap|pearing in this place: The Chappel of St. Andrew is very pretty; the Paintings of Sacconi, Carracico's Schollar.
S. GIO DECOLLATO, Is a pretty little Church, Note in marg: S. Gio Decollato. De|collato. in which there are several Pictures of great Masters: The charge of these Fathers, is, to take care of the Souls of Malefactors that dye, whom they also Bury.
S. MARIA EGITTIACA Is a little Church and Note in marg: S. Maria Egittiaca. E|gittiaca. Colledge for the Armenians: In it is Built the exact Figure of Christs Sepulchre in Jerusalem; 'twas an|ciently a Temple to Jupiter and the Sun.
SCUOLA GRECA, Is an ancient Church, where Note in marg: Sevola Greca. they show an old marble Head, called Bocca della Ve|rita, which some would have to have served for the utterance of an Oracle, but has rather been an Orna|ment for a Sink or Common-shoar.
S. MADALLENA al CORSO, I sa Church and Note in marg: S. Maddalena Madda|lena al Corso. Cor|so. Monastery for neglected Whores; to which, besides o|ther Almes was given by Clement the 7th. the fifth part of all other Whores Estates, (whether publick or private at their Deaths) else if detected, they were not capable of making Wills.
S. SABINA Upon Monte Aventino, Is in the very Note in marg: S. Sabina. same place, where anciently stood Diana's Temple: In this Church the great Patriach S. Dominick us'd to pray, and vex'd the Devil so, that he threw a black Stone at him of the size and figure of a Holland Cheese,
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which in the body of the Church is now Chain'd to a Pedistal, together with the relation in Print.
S. ALLESSIO, Is built on the Ruins of Hercules his Note in marg: S. Allessio. Temple, who had it Dedicate for having here kill'd Caeus that had his Den near this place: In the Church is most devoutly kept a little Stair|case, under which St. Allexius lived 17. years in his Fathers House, desiring to be private: There is al|so his Statue which spoke to St. Alleria.
S. MARIA nel AVENTINO, Is the place where an|ciently Note in marg: S. Maria nel Aventino. was the Temple of the Buona Dea, into which, none but VVomen were to enter, and yet Cezar, was made a Cuckold there.
In S. SABA, are the marble Tombs of Vespasian Note in marg: S. Saba. and Titus.
S. BALBINA, Is the Title of a Cardinal, and found|ed Note in marg: S. Balbina. by St. Mark himself.
S. NEREO ed ACCHILLEO, Built on the Ruins of Note in marg: S. Nereo ed Acchilleo. the Temple of Iside; the Picture of Flavia, is by Cavre. Pomerancio.
S. SISTO, Was formerly the Temple of Mars, which Note in marg: S. Sisto. S. Sisto made to tumble down by a Battery of Prayers, and had it afterwards Dedicate to himself: In the same place S. Dominick did ouce Inhabit, exercising the Office both of Abbess and Confessor to a Convent of Nunns; during which time ('tis said) he did raise three men from the dead (or gave them a Being.) Here likewise is another Picture of the Virgin, made by St. Luke.
S. GIOVANNI a PORTA LATINA, A little Note in marg: S. Giovanni a Porta Latina. La|tina. Church where St. John was boyld in Oyl; was anci|ently a Temple to Diana, as is to be seen by the Fi|gures on the VVall of one on Horse-back, a Dog and a Clown running before him.
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MARONITES Is a little Church and Colledge, Note in marg: Maronites. wherein they say Mass in their own Arabick Lan|guage.
ARACELI, So called from an Altar in it, Dedi+cate Note in marg: Araceli. by Augustus in these words, Ara primo geniti Dei, which is now adorn'd with Marble Pillars, &c. 'Twas anciantly the great Temple of Jupiter, standing on part of the Capital Hill, and the ascent to it by above 100. white marble Steps; 'tis large, the Roof Gilded, and near the Door, on one of the Pillars, is A Cubiculo Augusforum: Here also is a Picture of our Lady by St. Luke: The Chappel near the high Altar is Painting, by Caure. Giuseppe.
S. GIUSEPPE de FALEGNAMI, Is a little Note in marg: S. Giuseppe de Falegnami. Faleg|nami. Church, Built by the Carpenters, and peculiar to them; under it is the Prison, wherein St. Peter and St. Paul were kept nine moneths, the Pillars to which they were Chaind; and in the Wall is the print of St. Peters Face, when he stumbled and ran his Nose against it, being so great a dint, that with two or three such knoks more he might have got that way out of Prison: In the mid'st of it, is a little dirty Spring which (they say) he commanded to appear when he wanted water to Christen the Goaler.
S. LUCA Is Built upon the Ruins of the Temple Note in marg: S. Luca. of Mars, now belonging to the Painters, and will be a very neat Church when finish'd: The Picture of St. Luke is by Raphel's hand; the Architecture is of Pietro di Cortona, who Built part of it at his own Charge.
S. ADRIANO, Was formerly the Temple of Saturn, Note in marg: S. Adriano. and so ancient, that 'twas before Romulus his time; the great brass Doores were carry'd to St. John La|teran.
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S. LORENZO in MIRANDA Is the Temple of Note in marg: S. Lorenzo in Miranda. Antonino and Frustina, converted to a Church; the Front, Pillars of the Portico and Architectave, with th' Inscription, being almost perfect still: The Picture at the high Altar is Pietro di Cortona's, the other of Domenichini; it belongs to the Apothecaries.
S. COSMO e DAMIANO Is the Temple Dedica|ted Note in marg: S. Cosmo e Damiano. to Romulus; it has its brass Doors still remain|ing, and in it the famous Picture of the Virgin that reprov'd Pope Gregory for not saluting her as he had us'd to do, This is most certainly true; but how the Old Man excus'd himself, is not Recorded.
S. MARIA LIBERATRICE, Where Cicero's Note in marg: S. Maria Liberatriee. Li|beratriee. House once stood; has in it three Pillars. taken out of the Temple of Jupiter.
S. MARIA NUOVA, Has before the great Altar, Note in marg: S. Maria Nuova. the Tomb of Sa. Francesca Romana, of rare Bernino's work, and one of the Pictures of our Lady, made by St. Luke, which though the whole Church was Burnt, yet took no harm: Here also is kept the Stone, upon which St. Peter Pray'd (and left the prints of his knees) that Simon Magus might fall, who took his flight about this place.
S. SEBASTIANO Is a little Church with divers Note in marg: S. Sebastiano. Sebastia|no. Pictures in it, and the place where St. Sebastian was Shot, but healing still so fast, that 'twas impossible that way to kill him; he was here beaten to death.
S. TEODORO Is a little round Church Dedicated Note in marg: S. Teodoro. to Romulus and Renuis, being the very place where they were found, and therefore here was placed the Sta|tue of the Wolf, with the two Boys at her Paps, now in the Capitol.
S. MARIA delle GRATIE, Was formerly the Temple Note in marg: S. Maria delle Gratie of Vesta, Built round, with Corinthian Pillars, which
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still remain; here also is another wonderful Picture of our Lady, by St. Luke's hand.
S. MARIA della CONSOLATIONE, Built on oc|casion Note in marg: S. Maria della Consolatione. Con|solatione. of the Virgins Image, on an old Wall, working Miracles: The Front is the Architecture of Martino Lunghi, and the Chappel of Matie, painted by Taddeo Zuccaro.
S. ANASTASIA, Is a Church with a handsome Note in marg: S. Anastasia. Front, built in the place where was once a Temple to Neptune; in it is preserv'd the Head-cloaths of the Virgin, which she pull'd off to swath our Saviour in; and likewise a part of Josephs Cloak, that serv'd for his Covering.
S. GREGORIO in MONTE CELIO, Abounds Note in marg: S. Gregorio in Monte Celio. with Pardons for the Dead, and besides, admirable Re|licks, has an Image of our Lady that spoke to St. Gre|gory; and which though not so wonderful, is yet very remarkable; our Saviour himself once came to him for an Almes; and at another time an Angel, who at his departure, confest he had been often with him before, and how that he had once got a Silver Poringer; for all which, having sufficiently testified his Gratitude, he flew away: This Saint, for being so much Heavens Favourite, was Sir named the Great; his Chappel is painted by Carraccio.
S. GIOVANNI e PAOLO, Were the two Eunuchs of Note in marg: S. Giovanni e Paolo. Constanza, the Daughter of Constantine, which she abandoning, they lived a melancholly, holy Life, in the place where now stands their Church. The two Chappels are painted by Raphael di Regio, and Pari Romano.
S. STEPHANO ROTONDA, Is built on the Ruins Note in marg: S. Stephano Roconda. of the Temple, of the Emperor Claudeus; there is a Picture by Raphael, Perino del Vaga, and some paint|ings of Pomerancio.
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S. QUATRO, So called from four Bodies made Note in marg: S. Quatro. Saints, by Pope Leo the 4th. for to Hallow this Church, which he drew like a Lottery, out of the Church-yard, not knowing whom he Single illegible letterook; but since ('tis said) their Names have miraculously been reveal'd.
S. EUSEBIO Is a little Church, built upon the Note in marg: S. Eusebio. Ruins of the Emperor Gordians Pallace.
S. ANTONIO Is a very pretty Church; to the Fa|thers Note in marg: S. Antonio. of which, is committed the Spiritual care of all the Horses, Mules, and Asses in Rome, who upon that Saints day, come in a noble Procession to receive their Blessings; and that they may succeed, they bring every one Offerings with them of Wax-Candles, Money, Hay, Oats, Bricks, &c. according to their Employment, which two Priests receive, who stand with great brushes and pails of Holy-water in a proper place to give their Benedictions.
S. PRASSEDE: In a Chappel of this Church is Note in marg: S. Prassede. to be seen a piece of the Pillar, at which our Saviour was scourg'd: And which makes the Church more con|siderable, there is in it 3300. Saints Bodies, and some Pictures, by Giulio Romano, Giuseppe and Zuc|caro.
S. PIETRO in VINCOLI, Preserves St. Peters Note in marg: S. Pietro in Vincoli. Fetters: In this Church is a famous Statue of Moses in white Marble, much bigger than the Life; by Mich. Angelo, and the best that ever he made.
S. DOMENICO a Monte MAGNANAPOLI, Note in marg: S. Domenico Domeni|co a Monte Magnanapoli. Magnana|poli. S. Silvestro a... Has another famous Picture of our Lady, painted by St. Luke.
S. SILVESTRO a Monte CAVALLO, In it, and the Chappels, divers Paintings by great Ma|sters.
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S. ANDREA Is a little neat Church, Built by Note in marg: S. Andrea. Prince Panfilio, and Caure. Bernino, the Architect; 'tis so lined with fine Marble, and adorn'd with little Statues of Angels, Cherubs. &c. that for the bigness of it, 'tis as fine as any thing in Rome.
S. VITALE Is Built on the Ruins of the Temple Note in marg: S. Vitale. of Quirino, who here appeared to Proculus.
S. LORENZO in PANISPERNA, Stands where Note in marg: S. Lorenzo in Panisperna. Panisper|na. St. Laurence was put upon the Grid-iron by the Emperor Decius, whose Pallace stood in this place; the Mar|tyrdome painted in Fresco; and to make it more Holy (by a Miracle) they show the Tomb of a Scotch Virgin.
SAPIENZA Is a well-built Colledge for publick Note in marg: Sapienza. Lectures; the Architecture of Giacomo della Porta.
PROPAGANDO FIDE Is a Colledge of noble Note in marg: Propagando Propagan|do Fide. Building for Eastern Students of Catholick Divinity, who are afterwards sent home to make all their Country|men (if possible) as wise as themselves.
S. PUDENTIANA, The Daughter to a Roman Note in marg: S. Pudentiana. Pudenti|ana. Senator, Converted by St. Peter, in whose House he lived Seaven years, now a Church: There is a fine Chappel built by Cardinal Gaetano, lined with curious polish'd Jasper and Marble, adorn'd with Pictures and Statues: At the Altar a Priest doubting whe|ther the Ostia he had Consecrated, were flesh or not, it leapt out of his hands, and all bloodied the Stones, over which, are now two Glasses set to preserve the spots, which are very visible to the eye of Faith: Here also is a Well, in which they say is the blood of 3000. Martyrs; and they have likewise some of St. Pe|ters old Cloaths, and the wooden Altar, at which he first said Mass.
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S. DEGLI ANGELI, Is the Therme of Dioclesian, Note in marg: S. Degli Angeli. An|geli. with little alteration converted to a Church for the Carthusians, who out of the same Ruins have also Cells; the Dedication is to the seaven Angels that are God-All mighties assistants.
S. BERNARDO Is a great round Tower belonging Note in marg: S. Bernardo. to the Therme of Dioclesian, now made a Church.
S. SUSANNA Is a very neat Church and Front; Note in marg: S. Susanna. the History is painted by Baldassere da Bologna, the other Pictures of Pari Romano, &c. Here was the Campo Scelerato, where the wanton Vestals were Bu|ryed alive.
S. MARIA della VITTORIA, Is so called for the Note in marg: S. Maria della Vittoria. Vitto|ria. Battle of Prague: The Chappel of Cardinal Cornaro is very fine, being the Architecture of Bernino; that of Gessi is Painted by Domenichini; a Crucifix by Guido Rheni.
In S. AGNESE: On the Feast-day, by the Pope, &c. Note in marg: S. Agnese. two white Lambs are solemnly blest, and of their Wool Palls made and sent Presents to the Patriarchs, Bishops, &c.
S. COSTANZA was the Temple of Bacchus, which Note in marg: S. Costanza. is entire still, and serves for a Church without altera|tion; 'tis round, supported with double rows of Marble|pillars, and in the Roof old Mosaick work of Uni|tage, &c. In it, stands a great thick Chest, or Trough of Porphry, with a cover suitable to the rest of its Beauty; on the Corners of which, is figur'd Child hood, Youth, Man-hood, and Old Age; on the other Bassori|lievo in Grotesque, Boys with Baskets of Grapes, &c. The use of this no man can guess, but the Vulgar call it Bacchus his Tomb.
PALAZZO VATICANO Stands close to St. Pe|ters, Note in marg: Palazzo Vaticano. on the side of an agreeable Hill, and is vast,
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but not uniform. In the Chappel Sisto, by the great Hall is Mich. Angelo's last Judgment, but so dark, that one can scarce discern an Angel from a Devil: The Library is one large Room, supported with Pillars like a Church; about which are low Presses, wherein are kept the Books, and the like by the side of the Walls; and over them Historical Paintings in Fresco; at the end are some little Rooms Gallery-wise, that cross this, which are also stor'd with choice Manuscripts, as a Terence 1200. years old; a Chinese-book, whose leaves are infinitely thinner and smoother than Paper, made of some Herb, others of Barks of Trees, Hyere|gliphicks of Mexico, Mass-books with Figures of Saints, Angels, &c. in admirable Minature; a Volum of all Insects with their Figures painted; Henry the 8th. his Book against Luther, Dedicated to the Pope; his Love-Letters to Anna Bullein; an ancient Greek Bible writ in Gold· &c. The great Gallery is furnish'd with large Maps in proper colours of Italy; the other Rooms with Velvet; the Roof and Sides (in all the principal) Paintings, by divers great Masters of Devotion, &c. but most of them by Raphael; and amongst the rest, there is an Armory for 30000. men. The great Gar|den has diversity of Pleasure, Trees of all sorts, as Palms, &c. A little Wood, a Flat, an Ascent, great Fountains falling from high, others bursting like a River out of rude Rock cover'd with Greens, Grotta's, &c. The little Garden is thick set with Orange-Trees, and variety of Fountains; at the upper-end are two brass Peacocks, once gilt, and stood upon the Tomb of Scipio Affricanus, and by them the great brass Pine-apple, taken from the Moles Adriani: By this, in a little Court, are the admirable Statues preserv'd of Laocon and his Sons, bit by Serpents; the Trunk of Hercules, View document image [37] containing page [70] Document Images
by which Mich. Angelo learnt so much; two Venusses, two Rivers, Nile and Tyber; a great Hercules, that admired one of Antinuus of Oriental Marble.
PALAZZO FARNESE, Has before it a fine Note in marg: Palazzo Farnese. Piazza with noble Fountains; was design'd by Mich. Angelo, is square Building, clear from other Houses, and on every side a great Enterance: The Court is up|on Pillars, in which is the admirable Statue of Her|cules found in the Therme of Antoninus Caracalla; that of the Vestal, that to Vindicate her Chastity brought water in a Sive from the Tyber; above, are Galleries again in the same manner: In the Rooms are great numbers of Statues and Pictures; among the rest Mich. Angelo's, and Raphael Urbins, done by their own hands; but beyond all, is the Salle, painted by Hannibal Caraccio: On the back-side the Court is the famous Statue of the Bull, with Dirce tyed to his Horns, &c. which is as wonderful for the size, as the work: For the Garden wanting here, it has a noble one by Ponte Sisto.
PALAZZO BURGHESI, Is the Architecture of Note in marg: Palazzo Burghesi. Martino Lunghi; has 19. Rooms on a Floor, the first two Stories in the Court supported with Pillars; the Garden (being in the mid'st of Rome) little, yet has three great Fountains, besides divers small ones plac'd between every two Orange Trees; and to recompence the want of ground, has a Garden and Fountains like|wise on the top of the House, which has a noble Pro|spect: The Rooms are richly furnish'd, besides the Pictures and Paintings, which are in great quantities, by the greatest Masters, as Titian and Mich. Angelo's by their own hands; the famous Crucifix of the latter, and the Bed-Chamber hung all with naked Venusse's in several postures: The Princess, her Room of Audience
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has two Fountains and Basons at each end, of a Mar|ble, like the best Wall-nut, and Tables, and Door|cases too of the same, so admirably colour'd and grain'd, that none would take it to be Stone: The great Look|ing-glass they show as a Curiosity, for having the frames of Christal entire, without any mettal to joyn or fasten them.
MONTE CAVALLO, Is the Popes Re|sidence; Note in marg: Monte Cavallo. Ca|vallo. has an open large Piazza before it, whereon stand the two famous Grecian Horses that give it the name; it has a great noble Court and Garden, with great Variety of Fountains, Grotta's, Groves of Orange-Trees, and every thing proportion|able except Furniture; the Architecture is of Dome|nico Fontane.
PAZZORELLA Is the House where Lunaticks and Note in marg: Pazzorella. Fools are kept, most of the Mad-men in it, being Priests, and amongst them, one that believes himself to be the Pope, and were he in his Habit, might easily be mistaken, being very like him both in person and face.
PALAZZO del S. UFFICIO, Is the Pallace of Note in marg: Palazzo del S. Ufficio. the Inquisition, where there are divers Grave Fathers attending, but the holy Tormentors have now little to do.
PALAZZO PALESTRINO, One of the finest Note in marg: Palazzo Palestrino. Pa|lestrino. in Rome, is built on the side of a Hill, has abundance of Chambers, and those very well stor'd with Statues, Pictures, and other rich Furniture; of the first, there is a Cupid and a young Lady of the Family rarely done, by Bernino, and Raphaels Mistress painted by him|self, as also the famous Venus by Titian; of which, there are so many Copies: The Grand Salle, the paint|ing of Pietro di Cortona.
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PALAZZO CHIGI Is a new and excellent well|built Note in marg: Palazzo Chigi. Pallace, the Architecture of Bernino; the Rooms all well contriv'd and richly furnish'd, most of them with Tissue, and full of excellent Pictures of the great|est Masters, and in every one of them sweet Bags of different and admirable perfumes: In one Chamber, called the Foutesterium are Looking-glasses with Christal frames, hung with great drops of the same, valued at 12000. Crowns; the Bed of White-sattin, rarely pain|ted in Flowers, and Embroider'd with Gold, and the Ceeling painted with greens, &c. suitable to the rest.
PALAZZO PANFILLIO Is in the great Piazza Note in marg: Palazzo Panfillio. Navona, in the mid'st of which, stands that fine Gu|glia and Fountain, with the Figures of the four famous Rivers of the World, by Bernino: This Pallace has a|bundance of Rooms, Statues, and Pictures, and is noble building, but none of these of the first rate, only the Gallery is the painting of Pietro di Cortona.
PALAZZO PANFILLIO, In the Carso, a Street Note in marg: Palazzo Panfillio. almost the length of Rome, wherein the Ladies in the Evening take the Air: This Pallace will be fine when finish'd, but the additional Building makes it in some disorder; amongst others the Statues there of Ber|nino's six Boyes are very good.
PALAZZO COLONNA Is a great Pallace richly Note in marg: Palazzo Colonna. furnish'd: In his Garden, on the side of the Hill of Montecovallo was the Therme of Constantine, and on the top of it, the place where Nero stood to behold Burning-Rome; the Ruins of this Pillar there being all white marble Stones of Prodigious bigness, some six yards long and four Diameter, curiously cut in foliage, &c.
PALAZZO ORSINI Is a great Pallace built on Note in marg: Palazzo Orsini. the Ruins of Pompey's Theatre.
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PALAZZO di PAOLO 3o. Is a Pallace which Note in marg: Palazzo di Paolo 3°. has had three famous Architects, Sangola, Mich. An|gelo, and Vignola.
PALAZZO SISTO 5o;. Is the Architecture of Note in marg: Palazzo Sisto 5. Giacomo Fontana, not now Inhabited.
PALAZZO GHIGI Is in the Longara, wherein is Note in marg: Palazzo Ghigi. the Banquet of the Gods, by Raphael, the freshest colours I have seen; as well as the Pallace, the Gardens, Fountains, and Walks of Orange Trees are pleasant.
PALAZZO di RAPHAEL was Raphael Urbins own Note in marg: Palazzo di Raphael. Habitation, a very pretty Pallace.
PALAZZO di CAFFARELLI, Is a very noble Note in marg: Palazzo di Caffarelli. Pallace, built by Raphael Urbin also.
PALAZZO de i RE d'INGHILTERRA Is a Note in marg: Palazzo de i Re d'Inghilterra. d'Inghil|terra. ueat Pallace, formerly belonging to the Kings of Eng|land; for their Embassadors, the Architecture of Bramante.
2. PALLAZZI MASSIMI: The one Architecture of Note in marg: Palazzi Massimi. Baldassere Peruzzi, the other of Domenico Fontana, in both are many Statues and Pictures.
CASA PIGHINI Is the house where those admirable Note in marg: Casa Pighini. Pig|hini. Statues are of Meleager and a Venus, for which, my Lord Arundel offered 12000. Crowns.
PALAZZO del GRAN DUCA Is a fine Pallace Note in marg: Palazzo del Gran Duca. of the Great Dukes, Built not above 30. years agoe, and has a piazza before it.
PALAZZO GAETANI, Is a large and noble Note in marg: Palazzo Gaetani. Pallace; the Architecture of Bartolomeo Amanati.
PALAZZO della CANCELLERIA Is a very Note in marg: Palazzo della Cancelleria. Can|celleria. great Pallace, Built of the Stones fetcht from the Am|phitheatre, as were those of Farnese and St. Marks, is the Architecture of Bramante, and the Habitation of Cardinal Barberine the English Protector: In the Court stand two Gigantick Figures, representing two Muses.
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PALAZZO CAPO di FERRO Is the Architecture Note in marg: Palazzo Capo di ferro. of Giulio Mazzoni, very much adorn'd with Festons, Statues, Bassicilievi, &c. Within 'tis yet finer, having many Statues and Pictures; of the first, in the Hall, is one of Pompey bigger than the Life, much esteem'd, the next Room painted by Mich. Angelo; others by Volterra, Piamentino, &c. The Garden has two fine Fountains, Orange-Trees, &c.
PALAZZO MUTI Is a little Pallace with Statues Note in marg: Palazzo Muti. on the top of it, possest by the Heirs of Mutius Scevola, it being anciently his Habitation.
PALAZZO GIUSTINIANO Is the Architecture Note in marg: Palazzo Giustiniano of Gio Fontana, A Pallace well stor'd with Statues, being so full that it seems a Ware-house of them, and amongst the croud, is one of a Goat, as if alive, that of Dea Natura, of Lelia and the Swan, by Bernino, A Muse, a Sibel, &c. has some Pictures also of Titian.
PALAZZO ALTIERI Is of the present Popes Note in marg: Palazzo Altieri. Al|tieri. Family, now Building a mighty addition to it for his Nephew.
PALAZZO ALTEMPS, In which are divers Sta|tues Note in marg: Palazzo Altemps. and Pictures, one of the last, by Raphael, of the Virgin, worth 5000. Pistols, and a rare Bassorilievo, of the Triumph of Bacchus.
2. PALLAZZI MATEI, Have in them several Sta|tues Note in marg: 2. Palazzi Matei. and Paintings.
PALAZZO FALCONIERI Is the Architecture Note in marg: Palazzo Falconieri. of Borromine: Within, it has divers Statues and ex|cellent Pictures, a Garden of fine Fountains, and the Tyber running by the end of it.
PALAZZO LANCELLOTTI, Has a good Note in marg: Palazzo Lancellotti. Collection of Statues and Pictures: The Architecture of Maderni.
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PALAZZO VEROSPI Is the Architecture of Ho|norio Note in marg: Palazzo Verospi. Lunghi: In this Pallace is a very fine Collection also of Statues and Pictures.
PALAZZO RIARI Is Inhabited by the Queen of Note in marg: Palazzo Riari. Sweden, in which are several noble Rooms, as that wherein every Tuesday the choicest Voyces and Musick of Rome is heard; but some principally furnish'd with excellent Pictures of Carreggio, Carraccio, Paolo Veronese, a Venus by Titian, and that admired little Picture of our Lady, with our Saviour in her Hand, and St. John kissing him, by Raphael, and cost 10000. Crowns; her Hangings the design of Vandike, and her vast Silver Flower-pots upon Pedestals of the same, are very fine too.
PALAZZO SAVELLI Is Built on the Ruins of Note in marg: Palazzo Savelli. Sa|velli. the Theatre of Marcellus and Semcircular like it.
PALAZZO ALDOBRANDINI, Has seve|ral Note in marg: Palazzo Aldobrandine. Aldobran|dine. excellent Statues and Pictures; and in the Gar|den (which is very delightful by iis Prospect, Orange-Trees, Mirtles, Fountains, &c.) is an ancient Picture of a Marriage made in the time of the old Romans, which is much valued for its rarity, there being but only that in Rome.
PALAZZO MAZZARINI, Has before it a ve|ry Note in marg: Palazzo Mazzarini. spacious Court, and in the Garden the Picture of Aurora, by Guido Rheni.
PALAZZO SALVIATI Is the Architecture of Note in marg: Palazzo Salviati. Lippi, Built on purpose to Lodge a King of France in.
VILLA del G. DUCA Is the great Duke's Pal|lace Note in marg: Villa del G. Duca. on Monte Trinita; from whence it has an incom|parable Prospect of all Rome, and the Country about it; before it is a very fine marble Fountain; and in the Balcony of the second story, is another: In the
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Rooms, besides many excellent Statues, are these ad|mired ones; The Venus made by Cleomenes, Son of Apolidorus, esteem'd the best in the World, the Wrestlers, and the Clown listning to Catalines Con|spiracy are not to be equal'd, nor that of the Gladia|ator threatning Heaven, besides divers Heads upon curious marble Pillars, &c. In the Garden, which is vast, are likewise noble Fountains and Statues; at the entrance, two great white marble Lyons which stand as Guards; a Silenus in Brass, holding a young Bacchus in his Arms, and many others; an Obelisk with Hie|rogliphicks, Walks lin'd with Orange-Trees, Groves of Elci, &c. So much Beauty and Pleasure, that nothing can be added.
VILLA BURGHESI Has the approaches to it by fine Walks, through a delicate little Park, full of tall young Trees, most Elci, which are always green, and stor'd with variety of Deer; on one side of it pleasant Gar|dens, Note in marg: Villa Burghesi. Burg|hesi. with all sorts of Fountains, Grotta's, Vollerys, &c. close Walks, with water convey'd through the boughs, which all the way drops like Rain, to coole them; on the other side, at some distance, Canals and Fish-ponds; behind it principally, but indeed every way an incom|parable Prospect: The Pallace it self Crusted with rare pieces of Bassirilievi, and a great many Porphry Fi|gures stand like Centinels about it: Within, 'tis fill'd with Statues, Pictures, and other Curiosities in too great number to be remembred; but some of the principal are, that of Diana which was Worship'd by Augustus Cesar, the Gladiator, original of that in St. James's-Park, the Apollo and Daphne turning into a Lawrel-Tree of Caure Bernini, the best he ever made; David with his Sling, by the same hand; the Hermaphrodite, or Iside, that turns in her sleep to a man, lying upon a
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Quilt, which is so natural, that there's none but mis|takes it; the Heads of Hannibal and Scipio; eight rarely pollish'd Pillars of Porphry, with little Statues on them, two of green marble, and two of Pido|echio; a Seneca of Touch-stone, coming out of an Affrican Bath; a red Woolf with Romulus and Re|nuus at her Paps; a Head of Alexander the Great; Eneas with his Father on his Back, and his Son in his Hand, by Bernino also; four more Porphrey Pil|lars, with Urns of the same; the Statue of Agrippina, and the Gladiator her Lover, both Ancient; a Silenus excellent also; a Cup of a petrifi'd Moucheron, which to the eye is still the same; and a Chair that locks them fast that sit in it, whose opening bottom gives leave to treat Woman or Boy at pleasure.
VILLA PANFILLIA Stands high, has an excel|lent Note in marg: Villa Panfillia. Pan|fillia. Prospect, Gardens, Grotta's, Statues, and Urns, some fine Fountains, and many large Walks in and a|bout the Park; Has within, many Statues and Pictures, as those of St. Peter and St. Paul, by Mich. Angelo; of the former, the best is the Angel wrestling with Jacob.
VILLA MATEI: Has fine Gardens, VVa|ter-works Note in marg: Villa Matei and Prospect; in the Pallace and Sum|mer-House these excellent Statues, Apollo fleaing Mar|sius, three Cupids asleep with their Heads laid upon each other; Andromeda; an ancient Head of Cicero an Amazon, Cleopatra, Hercules, a Gigantick An|toninus, Brutus and Porcia, &c. rare Jasper Tables and marble Pillars.
VILLA LUDOVISA Has a Scituation as fine as Note in marg: Villa Ludovisa. Ludo|visa. the others, great Gardens, noble shady Walks, Grotta's, Fountains, &c. and two Pallaces, on each side one, wherein there are Pictures of Titian, Mich. Angelo;
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Caraccio, Guido, Rheni, &c. Two Statues of Apollo, a rare one of a dying Gladiator, the Porphry Oracle that spoke; three excellent heads of Scipio, Affricanus, Seneca, and Cicero; and among the rest, the real Body of a Man turn'd to Stone, so hard and perfect, that to satisfie Charles the 5th. of the truth of it, they broke one of his Legs, where the bone under the petri|fi'd flesh plainly appears; besides other Curiosities, there is a Bedstead valued at 100000. Crowns, the Posts of Oriental Jasper, the Head, Teaster, &c. set with pre|cious stones; the Walls within the Pallace plaister'd with marble, beaten to powder, which afterwards be|comes as hard and smooth as at first.
VILLA MONTALTA Has a Garden not inferior Note in marg: Villa Montalta. Mon|talta. to any in Rome, has excellent walks, admirable Water|works, Trees, Fountains, &c. In the House several Statues and Pictures, as that of David and Goliah, where you may see their Back-sides too; the Ariadne and Bacco, by Guido Rheni; the Busto of Caius Ma|rius; a Picture which one way seems a bunch of herbs, and turn'd and held another way, is the face of a man, a piece of Mosaick Land-skip, several Urns, &c.
VILLA FARNESE: Is a Garden on part of Monte Note in marg: Villa Farnese. Far|nese. Palatino, wherein there are pleasant Walks, Fountains, and Prospect.
PUBLIQUE FOUNTAINES Are those two noble Note in marg: Publique Fountains. ones in Piazza Vaticana, by Caure. Maderno.
That great one on Monte Gianicolo, that discharges five Rivelets, brought by Aquaduct from Bracciano, by Paolo 5°. the Architecture of Gio. Fontana.
That before St. Pietro Montorio, by the same Ar|chitect.
That of Sisto 5o. on Monte Viminale, issuing in three great branches adorn'd with Statues of Aaron, &c. by Domenico Fontana.
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That in Piazza Barberina, by Caure. Bernino.
That in Piazza del Popolo, by Domenico Fon|tana.
That in Piazza di Spagna, in the form of a Ship, discharging a vast quantity of water, by Bernino too.
That in Piazza di Monta Cavallo, by Domenico Fontana.
The Quatro Fontana, with Figures in cumbent po|stures, by Pietro di Cortona.
That in Piazza di Sa. Maria Maggiore, by Carlo Maderno.
That in Piazza di S. Giovanni Latterano, by Do|menico Fontana.
That in Piazza di Madonna de'Monti, by Giacomo della Porta.
That in Campidoglia, with the Statues of Nilus', Tigris, and Rome, by Mich. Angelo.
That in Piazza di Muti, by Giacomo della Porta.
That in Piazza Giudea, by the same Architect.
That in Piazza di Sa. Maria in Trastevere, by Gio Fontana.
That by Ponte Sisto, which falls in great quantity from on high, like a Cascade, by Dom. Fontana.
The two in Piazza Farnese, by Giralomo Rai|naldi.
That in Piazza Mattei, by Giacomo della Porta.
That in Piazza Colonna, by the same.
The great one at Monte Citorio, by Francesco da Volterra.
That in Piazza della Rotonda, by Giacomo della Porta.
That del Duca di Bracciano, by Antonio Casoni.
That in Piazza Scossa Cavalli, by Carlo Maderno.
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That del Aqua Acetosa, by Caure. Bernino.
That in Piazza Navona, with Neptune and the Sea-gods, by the same.
That famous one under the Guglia, in the same Piazza, with the Statues of the four quarters of the World, a Sea-Horse, &c. by the same Architect.
That unfinish'd one of Trevi, which discharges three Rivelets.
The Capital stands on an Agreeable Hill of Note in marg: Campidoglio. Campido|glio. about 120. steps ascent; on each hand are the Tri|umphs of Marius, and the two great Statues, and Horses of Constantine, or as some say, of Castor and Pollux; in the mid'st of the Corile, or Piazza, is the famous Statue of Marcus Aurelius, some think of Lucius Verus, others of Constantine on Horse-back, plac'd upon a Pedestal, made by Mich. Angelo, who admired this Figure so, that he ask'd this Brazen Horse why he did not goe, so like it is to Nature: On one side of it, is Rupes Tarpeia, not high enough now to break any mans neck; and in the Front is the Pallace of the Senators, built on the Ruins of the former; a|gainst the face of the Stairs is a rare Fountain, and close at each end (but dis-joynd) the two Wings, or Pallaces of the Conservatori, design'd by Mich. Angelo, supported with Pillars in Porticos; and on the flat tops of all the three Structures, Statues set in equal distance: In the inward Court of one of these, in white marble, are the measures of the ancient Romans, as their Canna, Palmo, &c. of Corn, Oyle, &c. The Pillar which stood in the Foro, from which they counted their miles to any place, the Colonna Rostrata, in memory of their Victory against the Carthaginians; the Statues of Julius and Augustus Cesar; the broken white mar|ble Colossus of Apollo, whose Toe I measured, is thicker
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than my middle; the head and hand of that of Como|dus, not much less than the former; the admired Sta|tue of the Lyon tearing the Horse; the Rape of the Sabines in Bassirilievi, the Tryumphs Sacrifices, &c. of Marcus Aurelius in Mezzo Relievo; the little Idol like a Monkey, taken from the Pantheon, and the an|cient Roman Laws, in Brass: In the Rooms is painted in Fresco the Rape of the Sabines, Hannibal, and Scipio, Cocles on the Bridge; the Horatij and the Curatij; that of Brutus, commanding the death of his Son; Mutius Scevola with his hand in the Torch, by Perugino: The Statues in Brass of young Hercules, once worship'd in his Temple on the Aventine Hill of Caius Marius, of Junius Brutus; that rare one of the Boy picking the Thorn out of his foot; that the Woolf with Romulus and Remus; the Heads in mar|ble of Socrates, Cicero, Virgil, Plato, Diogenes, &c. In the old Pallace the old Statue Marforius, Domitian in Bassorilievo, worship'd like a God; the Statue of Pudicitia, of Alcibiades, of the Woman Cursing Hea|ven for want of a Fortune; an old Hercules, once gilded, with many more Ancient and Modern of Popes, Generals, &c. their marble Calendar, &c. the Roomes painted by Giuglio Romano. Of the infinite number of Temples, and other an Note in marg: Curia Calabria. Cala|bria. tient Buildings, few are now remaining; but the most, in Foro Romano: and on the back-side of the Capitol, is an Architrave, of the Curia Calabria.
Near that, is a great part of the Temple of Con|cords Note in marg: Temp. Concord. Con|cord. Portico yet standing, and three delicate Pillars, of some other rare Structure; not certainly known of what.
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The Tryumphal Arch of Septimius Severus, Note in marg: Arch. Septim. Sep|tim. Sever. Temp. Saturn. Sa|turn. Temp. Mars Temp. Anton.... of white marble, with his Victories in Bassirilievi.
The Temple of Saturn, now a Church.
Employd as the former.
The Temple of Antoninus Pius, and Diva Faustina his wanton Wife; the Portico of Corinthian Pillars almost perfect still.
The Temple of Romulus and Remus, in the Ruins Note in marg: Temp. Rom of which, was found a Map of old Rome, engraven in large marbles.
The Temple of Peace, of which three great Note in marg: Temp. Peace. Arches still remain, and was the richest and most beautiful of all the rest, as the white marble Pil|lar does sufficiently testifie on the Pedestal, before Sa. Maria Maggiore.
The Ruins of the Foro, of the some Pillars Archi|traves, Note in marg: Foro Nerv. &c.
Three Pillars of the Temple of Jupiter Stator. Note in marg: Jup. Stator. Lake Curtius. Cur|tius. Pallace, Palatine. Pa|latine.
The Lake of Curtius, now a Common-shoar.
The great vast Ruin of the Emperor's Pallace on Monte Palatino, the most pleasant and entire Hill of all the seaven.
The ruinous walls of the Circus Maximus, all still remaining, which lined with Seats, held near 200000. Note in marg: Circus Maximus. Max|imus. People.
The Temple of Janus Quadrifrous, a square Note in marg: Temp. Janus. Ja|nus. white marble Building, with four Entrances, or Gates.
The Arch built to Septimus Severus, and Marcus Note in marg: Arch. Septi. mus Severe, Seve|re, and Marcus Aurelius. Au|relius. Arch... Aurelius, by the Gold-Smiths, whereon is described in Bassorilievo, their Tryumphs Sacrifices, &c.
The Arch of Constantine almost perfect still, with some excellent pieces of Bassorilievo on it, taken from other places; the rest detestable.
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The Arch of Titus, which was the finest, and Note in marg: Arch. Titus. is the most ancient Architecture of them all, and has still the spoiles of the Temple of Jerusalem in Mez|zorilievo upon it.
Part of the Arch of Gallienus, and the like of Gor|dian. Note in marg: Arch Galli. & Gordian.
The inward VValls of Vespasians Amphithea|tre, Note in marg: Amphitheatre. Amphithe|atre. and one part of the outward, with Pillars on each side of every Niche, four degrees high, one over another, and a part of the Meta Sudans by it.
Antoninus his Baths, a Ruin wherein there are four Note in marg: Therme Antoninus An|toninus Caracalla. Ca|racalla. places large as Westminster-Hall, besides divers less, nothing speaking more the greatness of the Romans than these prodigious Baths, of which the Pillars were all of Oriental Granite, as appears by those two in the great Dukes possession at Florence.
On Monte Aventino are also many broken walls, Note in marg: Monte Aventino. A|ventino. pieces of ancient Temples, &c. not now distinguish|able.
The most entire of all the Baths, is that of Note in marg: Therme Diocletian. Di|ocletian. Dioclesian; part of the great Arch'd Roof perfect still, and many of the Pillars which are all of a piece, re|maining too.
Are seaven great Archt places under ground, Note in marg: Sette Sale. said to be made by Dioclesian also, for the same use.
The Bathes of Constantine very much ruin'd. Note in marg: Therme Constantine Castello d'aqua d'a|qua Giulia.
The Ruins of a Structure that serv'd to distribute the water into the City, brought thither by the Aqua|ducts.
In the walls of Rome stands the fine entire white marble Piramid of Cestius, one of the Epuloni, and Note in marg: Piramid C. Cestius. within it were some Statues, but now wall'd up.
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Is a great hill, made of the broken pots thrown Note in marg: Monte Testaccio. Te|staccio. there in the old Romans time.
Is still remaining, now called by St. Paul's name. Note in marg: Porta Trigemmini. Tri|gemmini. Porta Maggiore. Mag|giore. Temp. Sun.
And the Aquaduct joyning to it, with all its Inscription perfect still.
On the Quirinal Hill is the Ruins of a Temple of the Sun, and near the Temple of Peace, another also of the Moon.
A little round Fabrick, built on white marble Pillars, Note in marg: Temp. Vesta. now a Church.
Is another little Temple, plac'd where Romulus and Remus was found. Note in marg: Temp. Romul. Ro|mul.
Of the same figure with the two former, and Note in marg: Temp. Bacchus. Bac|chus. in all respects perfect still.
Is a place wall'd in of about 450. yards long for Note in marg: Circus Caracalla. Ca|racalla. Games and Exercises; in the midst, it had two of those obelisks now erected in the City, and on one side of it, is the Ruins of a Temple of Mars.
Is a Tower of about eight or ten yards thick, Cased Note in marg: Moles Mettella. Met|tella. with white Marble, where Crassus, her rich Husband, placed her Ashes, called Capo di Bave, from such Heads on the Corniche.
A place with ruin'd Walls of a great compass, where Note in marg: Pretorium. the Pretorian Bands did Quarter.
What is now call'd Caffarelli, was anciently the Note in marg: Caffarelli. Fountains of Egeria, Auma, Pompillius his Deity, to whom in imitation of Moses, he went to receive Laws, Divine and Moral, for the People. 'Tis a long Archt Grotta, under a Hill, and at the further end, a mar|ble Figure lying along, leaning upon her hand, and water from three places over it perpetually running; formerly there was a thick Wood before it.
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The Ruins of the Temples of Mars, Venus, and Note in marg: Temp. Venus. Ve|nus. Cupid, are yet to be seen, and secret passages under ground to every one of them.
The Pillar is still in the Foro, on which Domitian's Note in marg: Colonna Domitiano. Statue stood, and was ador'd.
The Common-shoar to old Rome is lined with Free Note in marg: Cloaca Maxima. Temp. Alba Dea. stone, and so large, that a Cart might pass in it.
The little round Temple of Alba Dea, now a little Church.
Enough of the Erarium is now remaining too, to Note in marg: Erarium. shew how strong and great a Fabrick the ancient Ro|mans had for their Armes and Treasure; 'tis built alla Rustica, like the great Dukes Pallace.
The old Bridge Aurellius, with some Repairs, is still Note in marg: Pont Aurelius. Aure|lius. in being, now called Ponte Sisto.
The Colonna is of white marble, one hundred and sea|venty-three Note in marg: Colonna Traiana. foot high; about it is described in rare Basso|rilievo, that Emperors Wars, Victories, &c.
The Colonna Antonina has been injur'd by the Fire, Note in marg: Colonna Antonina. is 175. foot high, and adorn'd as the other; near it are Eleaven Corinthian Pillars, part of the Portico of that Emperors Pallace.
The Theatre of Marcellus would have contain'd 80000. Note in marg: Theatre Marcellus. persons; the Walls still so good, that 'tis now made a Pallace by Sigre. Savelli.
The Panteon, A round Temple, By Agrippa De|dicated Note in marg: Pantheon. to the Mother of the Gods, and all the Gods is perfect still, all but for its Cover of Corinthian Brass, of which Urban the 8th. Rob'd it; on the Architrave is this Inscription, M. Agrippa, L. F. Cos. tertium fecit; within, 'tis white marble, roof and sides, the Pavement the same, and Porphry; has no Window but that in the middle of the Roof; its heighth is its breadth, which is 144. foot. The Portico has all its Pillars still
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remaining, which are of Granite, of one entire piece, 53. foot high, 61. Diameter, and best of the Corinthian order, the door also (which is all cut out of one stone) is as tall as the Pillars, the door it self fac'd with brass. The Mausoleum Augusti is round; at the en|trance Note in marg: Mausoleum Augusti. two ancient Statues, and a Head over the door; within, it has three stories one over another, covered with Earth, now Gardens, and in the Circumference a low Building, like a Vault, for the Ashes of the Em|perors.
That of Adriani, Now Castel Angelo (because Note in marg: Moles Adriani. Adri|ani. an Angel was seen upon it) was of the same form and use, before it was made a Castle: It has now five Bastions, a Garrison in it, and may resist an Enemy a little while: Here the Pope keeps his Triple Crown and Money; and from the Vatican hither, is a Corridore, by which his Holiness may escape from danger.
By it is the marble Bridge Elius, now called St. An|gelo Note in marg: Pons Elius. too, with the 12. fine new Statues upon it, An|gels, holding every one something relating to our Sa|viours Passion, as the Cross, Spear, Spunge, Nailes, Hammer, Crown, &c.
In the River by it, are some of the Piles and broa|ken Note in marg: Tryumph Bridge. Arches remaining of the Tryumphal Bridge.
The Guglio Vaticana is of one entire piece, and on the Note in marg: Obelisco Vaticano. top of it, part of the true Cross of our Saviour plac'd; on the side of this Obelisk are these words, Divi Cesari, Divi Julij F. Augusti Tiberio Cesari D. Aug. F. Au|gusto Sacrum.
The biggest of the Obelisks is that before St. John Note in marg: Aguglia Laterana. La|terana. Lateran, which is 112. foot long, besides the Basiis, has this and another Inscription to the same purpose; Fl. Constantinus Aug. Constantini Aug. F. Obeliscum a paret loco suo motum diuque Alexandriae jacentem
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trecentorum remigium impositum Navi mirande va|stitatis per mare Tiberimque magnus molibus Ro|mam convenctum in Circo Max ponendum S. P. Q. R. D. D. The Guglia before Madna. del Popolo is 88. foot Note in marg: Aguglia alla Madonna del Popolo. long, and upon it, this Inscription, Imp Cesar Divi F. Aug. Pont Max. Imp. 12. Cos. 11. Pot. 14. E|gipto in Potestatum Populi Romani redacta soli Do|mum dedit.
That before Sta. Maria Maggiore is 42. foot high, Note in marg: Aguglia di Sa. Maria Maggiore. Obeli co Mahuto. and taken from the Mausoleum of Augustus.
That of St. Mahuto is full of Hierogliphicks, named after a Brittish Bishop that lived in this place above a 1000. years agoe.
In the Great Dukes Garden is a Guglia full of Hie|rogliphicks Note in marg: Obelifco di Medici. too: Such another in the Garden of Matei, and another mounted upon the back of an Elephant in the Piazza Minerva.
The Government and Court of Rome altogether con|sists Note in marg: Court and Government. Govern|ment. of Church-men, and except in that and greatness, differs but little from other Courts, the Officers being much the same, whose several Charges do make a Vol|lum; but what is most observable to a Stranger, is
The Colledge of 70. Cardinals, of which six are Bi|shops, Note in marg: Colledge of Cardinals. 50. Priests, and 14. Deacons, who sit in the next Room to his Holiness (on red Benches) like the House of Lords, teaching Spiritual matters.
The Governor of Rome, and the Judges, under him, Note in marg: Governor. in Civil and Criminal, who upon any Suit or Com|plaint, cite both Parties, and presently determine it; the whole expence not amounting to one single Fee, to drowsie Lawyers given here for Non-sence.
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The Cardinal Padrone, a great Minister, applyed to Note in marg: Card. Padrone. Pa|drone. on all occasions, and courted by every one, as Favou|rites usually are.
The Captain, or General of the Popes little Army, Note in marg: General. which is more or less, sometimes two, three, and now but a 1000. men in Rome, part Italians, part Ger|mans, except 300. Swizzers, who are Guards to his Holinesses person; and 200. light Horse-men, who serve for the same purpose.
The Militia which his Holiness can command upon Note in marg: Militia and Galleys. any suddain occasion, are but 80000. men, nor has he more than five Galleys, which are in port at Civita Vecchia.
The Traffick of the State of the Church, consists in Note in marg: Traffick. Oyl, Allum, Silk, and Corn; of which last, they have great quantities, and would have four times more, were all the Campagna Till'd.
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Duccats. The certain Revenue of the Church Note in marg: Revenue. is yearly 2600000 Doganadi di Roma 375000 Appalto di Tabacco Note in marg: Thus 14000 Appalto di Fieno Paglia, &c. 24000 Appalto della Carta e Cera 26000 Appalto del Sapone 10000 Tesoreria della Romagna 233000 Tesoreria della Marca 250000 Tesoreria di Perugia ed Umbria 108250 Tesoreria di Ferrare 34000 Tesoreria di Bologna 18000 Maritima e Campagna 22000 Provincia del Patrimonio 52000 Stati di Castro e Ronciglione 50000 Salare e Polveriere 30000 Lumiere 29000 Posta 34000 Tesoreria d'Urbino 20000 Dateria 350000 Assegnamenti deviersi 880250 The Religion, (allowing the change of Names, and Note in marg: Religion. some few Ceremonies) is the same with that of the an|cient Romans, as appears by Antiquities of Bassirilievi, Medailles, Histories, &c. For as these, they had their Pope in the person of a Soveraign, (Cezar Imperator, Pontifex Maximus) who had the charge, and was the only Interpreter of all Divine things, did order and decree what Altars, to what Gods, what days, and in what Temples they should Sacrifice: The care to keep out Heresies and Ceremonies; had a peculiar habit and a Miter, not unlike those now worne; were ador'd, at their Deaths, new ones chosen, by petty Popes or Car|dinals, had Flamines, Arch-Flamines, and Proto-Flamines, as Bishops, Arch-Bishaps, and Patriarchs; wrought Miracles, Canoniz'd Saints, did Dedicate Tem|ples to them, made Images in memory of them, and Worshipped them, as they now do; some of which Sta|tues could speak too, as well as several of the Modern; had Convents and Colledges of several Orders; had Nuns and Abbess, whose Rules were much the same with the present Monasteries; kept a Jubilee, had Processions, as that of the Virgin, Mother of the Gods, whose Image, with divers others, and particularly that of Jupiter (on his Festival) was carried through all the Streets with great Pomp, as now is seen in the Feast of Ged every year; made Holy-water, and plac'd it at the entrance of their Temples; us'd Wine, and
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an Ostia, or Wafer made of Flowre, Salt, and Water, both which the Priest tasted before he put them on the Sacrifice; kept Fasts, burnt Incence, gave Almes, &c. Priest confest before Sacrifice, had Musick and Singing-Boys; wore Surplices, had their Heads shav'd; turn'd their Faces to the East, and had very near all the same Gestures in their Devotions, and they and their Bene|fices depended absolutely on the will of the Pope.
FRESCATI Is a pleasant little Town, about 12. Note in marg: Frescati. miles from Rome, Scituate upon the side of a Hill which has the Prospect of all the Compagna; on the highest parts at considerable distance; are three Villa's, which besides other delights, of shady walks, &c. are incompa|rable for their Water-works.
That of the Belvedere, has a River brought six Note in marg: Belvedere. miles, which tumbles down in Cascata's, and other in|finit forms seaven several times; the side of the Hill be|ing cut into so many ascents and plains; three of these Fountains are met in so many several Stories, before the Pallace, and the other four in the same manner a|bove it; two of the uppermost being rustick, with great store of Trees, are of all the rest, the most agreeable; but from that call'd the Theatre (which is a sumptuous wall with Balustres and Statues on the top, and Niches for those of Atlas, Polyphemus, Hercules, &c. on the sides) is imitated Rain, Hail, Snow, and Thunder, which may be heard four miles; and the same water makes Organs play, Horns winde; and in a Room, called the Hall of Apollo, he with all his Muses, on Mont Barnassus, joyn in Concert.
That of Ludovisa has many of the same Ornaments Note in marg: Villa Ludovisia. Ludo|visia. and Fountains; & amongst the rest, in a thick Grove of Trees, a noble Bason enclos'd with marble Balustres; out of every Rail of which, runs a thread of Water,
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besides the great one in the mid'st, and lesser about it. Much bigger, and of more State than either of the Note in marg: Villa Montedragoni. Mon|tedragoni. former; is that of Montedragoni, has the same Pro|spects, such like Water works, fine Gardens, Fountains, a Park, &c. The approaches to it, through long walks set with Lawrel-Trees and Hedges.
TIVOLI Stands yet higher than Frescati, and a Note in marg: Tivoli. little further from Rome, but has the Prospect of it, and the Compagna beyond it: Here is the Grand Cas|cata, or Cattaract of the River Aniene, or Teverone, which falls with that Violence that it makes a Mist for a great distance round about; on the corner of a Hill by it, is the Ruins of a Temple, wherein Sibilla Ti|burtina was ador'd, and under it the Grotta where she lived.
Here also is the Pallace and famous Garden belong|ing Note in marg: Villa d'Este now to the Duke of Modena, which is larger, has better Prospect, more Fountains, greater Variety of Water-works, Grotta's, &c. than any other Villa what|soever, besides the Models it has of old Rome, where are most of the Temples and publick Buildings, accor|ding to their ancient Figures.
In the Rode to it, runs the little stinking Nitrous Note in marg: River Albula. Al|bula. River Albula, which though not much bigger than New-River, is yet sufficient to Poyson a Country.
About Twelve miles from Rome, is a Sum|mer Note in marg: Castel Gandolfo. Gan|dolfo. House of the Popes, but has nothing but its Scitua|tion considerable; stands on a Hill, has a Lake like a great Fish-pond by it, and a View of Rome before it.
VELETRI Is a little pretty Town; in it is the Note in marg: Veletri. Statue of Urban the 8th. and the Pallace and large Single illegible letterarden of Ginetti; the Walks all set with Lawrel-Hedges,
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and in them Lawrel-Trees which look with great round tops, and streight Stocks, like Orange-Trees: In the the most shady parts there are some thicker than my middle, and tall as Elmes, and being on the side of a Hill, has a fine Prospect of the Campagna.
TARACINA Has nothing now remarkable but the Note in marg: Taracina. Ruins of an old Temple.
FUNDI Is the first Town in the Kingdom of Na|ples, Note in marg: Fundi. and having been since the time of the Ro|mans burnt, has nothing in it more worth No|tice.
MOLA Is a little Town by the Sea side, where Note in marg: Mola. Cicero had a Villa, and his several Grotta's, with Fountains in the sollid Rock, divers Archt Vaults, with his place of Burial, are still remaining, the Garden close by the Sea, and now full of tall Orange-Trees.
GAETA Is a little Town and Castle on a Pro|montary Note in marg: Gaeta. that stands in the Sea, joynd to main Land, only by a little neck: Here is kept the body of the fa|mous Bourbon, and is shown the Rock that split at our Saviour's Passion.
In the open Fields, without any House, or other Note in marg: Amphitheatre. Amphithe|atre. Ruine than of an Aquaduct, stands the remains of an Amphitheatre, near a fine River, which was anciently the Scituation of the Town Minturna: Here an open fertile Country begins to show it self, the way from Rome, thus far being full of Hills, with (nevertheless) some fruitful Valleys, and those Mountains cover'd with Figgs, Olives, Orange-Trees, Sage, Rosemary, &c.
CAPUA Is a little insignificant Town, and two Note in marg: Capua. miles distant now from the place where that great City stood, of which there is no other remains, but the Ru|ins of an Amphitheatre, and some pieces of such other
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publique Structures; here is the entrance on the Cam|pagna felice, which all the way to Naples, is a Gar|den, something like Lombardy, but in all respects, finer.
NAPLES Has one end next the Mediterranean, Note in marg: Naples. like a Crescent, as Genoa's middle stands, and the rest of it oblong backward from it: Beyond the little neck of Sea is Mont Vesuvius, and a range of some other barren Mountains; behind it a Semicircle of fruitful Hills; and on the other side, the delicious Campagna: The Houses in general are well built, of Stone, high, well-glaz'd, and flat-roof'd, to walk upon; the Streets admirably paved, and some of them very large; has some very great Piazza's, many Pallaces, fine Gardens, Fountains, and the best Churches of any City in the World.
On a Hill that over-looks it, is the Castle of St. Ermo, Note in marg: Castel St. Ermo. cut out of the solid Rock into that form.
Near that is the rare Carthusian Monastery, which Note in marg: Carthusian Monastery. has a Prospect as good, if not better than Greenwich: The Town, the Sea, the Country, Islands, and Pro|montories, at a very great distance; the Cloister is of white polish'd Marble, with Pillars and Balustres of the same; and in the mid'st of the Quadrangle, Hedges of Oranges, &c. The Church, Chappels, and Sacristy, are yet much finer, being not only Marble, but richly gilded and painted; the Floors admirably paved with squares of white and red, and the great quantity and great pieces of Plate as remarkable as the rest.
St. Paolo was anciently ths Temple of Castor and Note in marg: St. Paolo. Pollux, as the noble Portico, great Pillars, Archi|trave, &c. with the Greek Inscription, still remaining, showes: 'Tis now Dedicate to St. Peter and St. Paul, under whose Statues lies two Truncks, which they make
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the Vulgar believe, were the Statues of the first Pa|trons, and that the Voyces of these Apostles made them to tumble down; the Walls and Pillars of this Church are cover'd with Silver Vewes; the Roof rarely painted and gilded. The Anunciata is very stately, the Roof, Cupola, &c. Note in marg: Anunciata. painted and gilded as the former: In the Treasury are vast Figures, Vessels, &c. of Silver. In the Sacristy they show the two Infants of Bethlemme, with their Wounds, &c. Adjoyning is the great and well-endow'd Hospital which maintains near 3000. Poor.
The Jesuits is a noble Structure; the best of the Or|der, Note in marg: Il Giesu S. Maria Nuova Olivietani, Oli|vietani, &c. fine and rich in all respects as the others; so is that of Sa. Maria Nuova, that of the Olivietani, and several more in general excelling the Churches in Rome: In that of the Dominicans is the famous Crucifix that spoke to Thomas Aquinus; and in the fine Chappel in the Duomo, is kept S. Gennaro's Blood, which boyls when brought near his Head; and in that of S. Ma|ria del Parto, the Tomb of Sannazarius, once his House.
The Vice-Kings Pallace is of Stone, and stately; Note in marg: Palazzo del Vice Re. the Front very large, supported with Pillars, and has a noble Piazza before it, from whence to the Mole is an admirable descent for Coaches, like a winding-Stair-case.
The Garden of di Vico has an excellent Prospect, Note in marg: Giardino del Marchese Mar|chese di Vico. Vi|co. abundance of fine Fountains, and other Water works; and being on the side of a Hill, is so prettily contrived, that there are Gardens like Rooms, one over another, for three or four Stories: Besides these, there are ma|ny other Pallaces and Villa's, as that Royal one of Pog|gio Reale, of Pietrabianca, &c.
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Virgils Tomb stands likewise in a Garden on the side Note in marg: Sepolechro di Virgillio. of a Hill, and on the top of it, grows a Lawrel, which though ill us'd by curious Strangers, yet flourishes: on a Wall by it, is this Epitaph.
Qui Cineres Tumulo hec Vestigia conditur olim, Ille hoc qui cecinit pascua, rura, duces. They here also say he had a House, and show a little stone Seat, enclos'd like a Closet, with an excellent Prospect, where he writ his Georgicks.
The Mole lies like a bended Arm into the Sea, and Note in marg: Il Molo. being very large, there they goe in the Evenings to take the Fresco: At the further end of it is the Pharo's; by the side of it, the Castle Nuovo; and on a Rock in the Sea, the Casile Uovo.
The great Market place is large, at least as Smith|field, Note in marg: Il Mercato. stor'd with admirable Provisions of all kinds; but the Pork, Bacon, and Pidgeons so extraordinary, that they seem quite different meats from ours. Their Fruits, Limonades, Creams, Sherbets, Wines, &c. and the Cheapness of them all, deserves no less to be ad|mired and prais'd, In this Piazza, like the place a|bove said are their Gallowes and Executions.
Vesuvius is about nine miles from Naples, but by Note in marg: Monte Vesuvio. Ve|suvio. its great heighth, appears very near; the way to it, is all cover'd with Stones burnt into Cinders of all sizes; the Hill it self very steep, cloath'd in Ashes; the sharp top blown away, and a round hole in it, esteem'd a mile wide, which is very deep, but of an equal bore; the sides of it is Rock, the bottom a perfect flat, except the very middle, where it perpetually smoaks, and by its venting there, has rais'd a little Hill, the upper part of which is tipt with Sulphur.
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Behind Naples is a passage cut through a Mountain, Note in marg: Pausilippo. large enough for two Carts to pass, long at least as the Maille in St. James's Park, and very high, by which means it is not very dark, the light striking in at each end, a great way; and in the middle of it is a Lamp that hangs there for the Virgins sake, who has our Saviour in her Lap.
The Grotta del Cane, is a little place cut in the Note in marg: Grotta del Cane. side of a Hill, where there breaths out from the ground a Vapour of that malignity, that in a moment it kills a Dogg, if his head be held low to it; and they usu|ally throw him into the Lake Agnano, close by, which they say revives them again; but if they hold them too long in the Grott, they'l be mistaken, witness a Dog that follow'd me from Rome. A Torch held in the same manner, will instantly go out; and in this ex|periment is seen its force, for hold high, it burns as at other times; but lower and lower, blewer and blewer, till it extinguish; 'Tis kept lockt, least some silly Ani|mal should go into it for shelter, as once a Pilgrim did, and died.
The Solfatara has Hills round it, and seems to be a Note in marg: Solfatara. place where a Mountain once stood; the ground is very hot, sounds hollow, and in divers places the Sulphureous smoak issues with great noise and violence: They make Cups and Pots of the Earth, which are us'd Physically, and gather great quantities of Sal-Armoniack, Nitre, Vitriol, and other preparations, from this natural La|bratory. As anciently, so it is still believed to be the mouth of Hell; the Fathers Capucins just by it, hear|ing oft Sighs and Groans of Souls in pain, and some|times see them in the shape of Birds with humane faces, come out thence to aire themselves, with a great black Keeper, like a Raven with them; at whose
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dreadful Croaks they all plunge into the fire a|gain. Close by the little arm of Sea, of 3. miles and Note in marg: Puzzuolo, and Baia. a half broad, stands Puzzuolo, now a wretched poor place; and on the other side, the Ruins of Baia, to which Caligula made a Bridge, thirteen of the prodigi|ous Piles and Arches being yet remaining: Of that fa|mous Town, some of the Streets may yet be known, but has nothing left remarkable.
Near it are the Elizian Fields, a place of no great Note in marg: Elizium. Bliss, yet would have still been Paradice, had it not lost its Priests.
The Piscina Mirabile is a vast Cave, or Cellar, Note in marg: Piscina Mirabile. Mi|rabile. entirely under ground, lined with a plaister as hard as flint, supported with abundance of huge square Pillars, and suppos'd to have been a reserver of Water for the Roman Galleys that lay hard by it, in the Mare Mor|tuum.
The Cento Camerelle are a hundred little Grotta's Note in marg: Cento Camerelle. Ca|merelle. in the manner of the former, and for the same pur|pose, though some say, for to keep Slaves in for the use of the Galleys.
Of Agrippina's sumptuous Villa, the only entire part Note in marg: Sepolc'r Agrippina. A|grippina. remaining, is her Tomb, which in a dark hole, amongst the Ruins, by Torch-light may be seen.
Near that on the Shoer is a Ruin of Cicero's Villa, Note in marg: Villa Cicerone, Cice|rone, Lucullo, Lu|cullo, Palazzo Nerone, Ne|rone,... that of Lucullus; a little further, that of Nero's Pal|lace, and other Buildings; and on a Hill washt by the Sea, the Walls of a modern Castle; not much further, Cicero's Bathes, formerly in great esteem.
At a little distance are the hot Bathes cut in a hard Note in marg: Bagni Tritoli. Tri|toli. Rock in several Entrys to Sweat in, which are so warm, that 'tis almost impossible to endure two minutes, at the further end.
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By this is the new Mountain, a Hill, esteem'd a Note in marg: Monte Nuovo. Nu|ovo. mile or two in compass, that about 100. years agoe, did rise in one night after, a terrible Earth-quake, and al|most dryed up the Lake Lucrinus.
Near the Shoar is a great Ruin of the Temple of Note in marg: Tempio d'Hercole. Hercules, and some remains of the Villa of Hor|tensius.
The Sybills Grott is a large passage, cut in a Hill, Note in marg: Grotta di Sibilla. like that of Pausillippus, and formerly a Rode to Cuma, now wall'd up in the middle; about 150. yards with|in it, there is a streight Entry, which leads to di|vers little Rooms of several sizes, the one of which has been adorn'd with Mosaick work, &c. In the fur|thest, there is a Spring of luke-warm water, which makes it suspected that these Chambers were cut for the sake of that; but being so far from light, or air, then what is suffocating, I cannot guess at the use, or the Inhabitant.
Just before the entrance into this Grotta, is the Note in marg: Lago Averno. Aver|no. round Lake Avernus; and on the side of it, the Ruins of the Temple to Apollo, which is made an Argument, that the above-said Rooms were the Lodgings of a Si|bill: At a little further distance are several scatter'd Ruins, and in the Hills about it, abundance of Baths and Sweating places, esteem'd good for several Dis|eases; and in the Romans time had Statues there e|rected, that pointed, and Inscriptions that told what part and distemper every Bath was proper for; but the Salernian Physicians growing poor by it, went una|nimously one night and defaced them both.
Further on by Cuma is the Lake of Accheron, Note in marg: Palude Accherusia. Ac|cherusia. which now is no more horrid than the former, only its water of worse colour.
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The Government of Naples is by a Vice-Roy, whose Note in marg: Government. Govern|ment. Commission is usually for three years, with the allow|ance of 24000. Duccats annually, besides what he fleas off the People: He is assisted by a Privy Coun|cel, two Secretaries of State, and four Doctors of the Law, called Regenti della Cancellaria, which are term'd also his Councellors, and in matters of Impor|tance, are joyned with the former. Of the same de|nomination there are likewise two always residing in the Court of Spain, and sit in the Councel of Italy there, exactly to enform them of the State of Naples; and in these, and all Courts of Justice, at least half of them must be Spaniards.
The City is between eight and nine miles in com|pass, Note in marg: Strength. with Bull-works alla moderna, and encloses 300000. Inhabitants, besides Monasteries and Stran|gers; has an Arsenal and five Castles; a Mole and Squadron of seaven Galleys; a Guard of fifty Horse al|ways next the person of the Vice Roy; a hundred Hal|berdiers that Guard in the Pallace; five Troops of light Horse-men, and 4000. Spanish Foot, which are there daily upon Duty likewise, and besides, supply the Castles.
The Kingdom is esteem'd to be 1468. miles in com|pass; Note in marg: Garrisons. in all the several Castles of which, and Guards upon the Sea-coasts, there are but 1608. Spanish Foot.
The Militia of Horse, called the Battaglione, are deno|minicon Note in marg: Militia. 1020, put into 16. Troops: The Foot of the same 25078. Every 100. Families furnishing five Souldiers, such as their Officers shall approve, which are oblig'd within, or out of the Kingdom, to serve five years, and then to be relieved by others sent in their room; but during the time of such Service, ought to receive the
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same pay with the Spanish Foot. Of these, as well as all other Force in the Kindom, the Vice-Roy is Cap|tain-General. The several Provinces have Governors called Primi Note in marg: Governors of Provinces. Provin|ces. Guisticieri, which are allow'd a Guard of twelve Hal|berds, but their Governments last but two years.
The Revenue, which before the Rebellion, in 1647. Note in marg: Revenue. was to the Treasury fifteen Carlini a Family, besides all other payments, for the maintenance of the Army, &c. and the free gift that every two years the Parliament in that time made, of 1200000. Duccats, is nuw 42. Carlini a Family, in lieu of all the other payments and gifts. And in lieu of the Excise and Gabels that were upon all sorts of things necessary to life, it was agreed likewise to give the King 300000. Duccats yearly, which is since increas'd 113000. Duccats by an ex|traordinary Imposition on Tabacco, not included in the Covenant, because judg'd a thing not necessary to hu|mane life. The Imposition on the Sheep and Pastu|rage in Apuglia, amounts to 200000. Duccats yearly, And what the King receives in lieu of his Knights Service, or Tenure d'Adogo, 100000. yearly, which is all the certain Revenue the Spaniards have in the Kingdom of Naples.
The chief policy in this Government, is the keeping the Nobility at odds, which are so unwise as to be so to the Note in marg: Policy. greatest degree imaginable, not daring any one of them to go 20. miles out of Town, without a Guard of 50. or a hundred Horse, with which they are supply'd for the most part out of the Troops of Banditi, that for this reason are by them supported and protected, every great man having his Squadron of Rogues ready at a little summons to attempt any thing upon his Enemy. The Inquisition, they here, would very fain have as severe
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as 'tis in Spain, but the people are always ready to rebel on the least offer at it. The holy Chamber brought by Angels to Loreto, Note in marg: Loreto. has now a Church built over it; before which is a Fountain, and the Statue of Sixtus Quintus; and for yet better security from eyes and hands, is wall'd about with Marble, beautified with Statues of Sibills and Prophets; within 'tis little, the materials brick; has but one Window, and at that the Angel entred when he brought news of the Incarnation; the Furniture is much better, for the Cupboard of Plate they had sent with the House, was only some earthen Vessels; but now it has several of Gold, set with Jewels, besides Sil|ver, Amber, &c. there not being a Prince, nor great Family in Europe, that on the score of some danger or deliverance have not made their presents to it, except the English, who have either been more fortunate, or wiser than the rest. What is of value above all the Riches, is the Virgin with our Saviour in her Arms, made of Cedar, by St. Luke, which came also with the House, and is defended by an Iron-gate: In the Room where they keep their most superfluous Treasure, they show divers rich Gowns, for this Image, which are kept for Holy-days. It has an Apothecaries Shop be|longing to it, for the use of Pilgrims, in which there are some pots that were painted by Raphael Urbin. The next remarkable thing is their Cellar, which is the largest in Italy, stor'd with vast Tuns of excellent Wine; another mark of Peoples Charity.
ANCONA Stands upon the Gulph; towards Note in marg: Ancona. Land is defended by a Castle, and has a short Mole into the Sea; the Tryumphal Arch of Trajane, the most remarkable thing.
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RIMINI Preserves upon a Pedestal the Stone, that Note in marg: Rimini. Cesar stood on, when he perswaded his Souldiers to march to Rome.
FERRARA Stands on a flat, by the noble River Note in marg: Ferrara. Po; has a Cittadel and excellent Walls, with water round them of great breadth: Before the Duomo are two Statues in Brass, of the Family d'Este; and in the Monastery of the Benedictives, the Tomb of Ari|osto; and is such a sort of Town as Parma or Mo|dena.
VENICE, The Free-born State which neither A|thens, Note in marg: Venice. Sparta, nor Rome could boast, stands in the Adriatick, upon little Islands, every way two or three Leagues from Land, for which distance the water a|bout it being very shallow, renders it impregnable; the main Sea is kept off by a long natural Bank of twenty or thirty miles, so that the strongest winds are not prejudicial: The body of the City is esteem'd five miles in compass, besides the scatter'd Islands about it; the Houses so close for want of ground, that there are more than in a Town of double that circuit: It is well built, has divers Pallaces, and if inferior to any other Citty in Italy, 'tis in Churches: The Streets have con|venient passage for such as go on Foot, as well as for the Boats, having that admirable Scituation, that one may go to every House in Town by Water or by Land: In the middle of it is the Canal Grande, deep and large, over that, and all the rest, Stone Bridges of one Arch, under which their Gondola's conveniently pass; the number of which are said to be 20000. and in all the little Calle or Land-passages, little Shops well furnished.
The Church of St. Mark has a great deal of Mar|ble, Note in marg: S. Marco. both without and within, as the Front, the Pillars,
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Pavement, &c. but not modern Architecture, very high over the door, stands the four brass gilt Grecian Horses of Lisippus, sent by Tiridates, King of Arme|nia, to Nero. The Treasure of this Church is very great, shown always in the presence of one of the Pro|curatori; some of the principal things are the twelve Suits of gold Armour, set with Pearl, with Crowns worne by so many Virgins anciently on some Festivals; two other Royal Crowns, and the Doges, all set with Stones of great value; three great Carbuncles, a Flowre-de-luce with a great Diamond in it; a huge Saphir, a cup of one Turquoise, great Massive Candlesticks, and Chalice of Gold; two Crucifixes set with Pearl, &c. besides Relicks of greaier value, as a Tooth of St. Mark; another of Mary Magdalen, a lock of the Virgins Hair, some of the Blood at our Saviours Passion; a piece of John Baptist's skull; one of the Stones that was thrown at St. Stephen, &c. Before this Church is the fine Piazza built about Note in marg: Piazza St. Marco. with Portico's; and were it not for the Buildings that almost divide it into two, would be exceeding spacious.
Next to the Church is the Doges Pallace; very Note in marg: Palazzo del Doge. large, and was much finer before 'twas burnt, as by that part which escap'd, crusted with white Marble ap|parts: The Duke himself has only one Appartment, the rest employ'd for the use of Councels, Officers, &c. The great Senate Room is rarely painted, Roof and Sides, the end over the Doges Seat is by the hand of Tintoret, and esteem'd one of the four best pieces of the World: By the Chamber, where the Concillio di Dieci sit, is a little Armory, with Arms in great rea|diness for 1000. Men; the Muskets always charg'd, and Match so dispos'd in a little Engine with Gun|powder,
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that pulling a string, lights 100. pieces at once; to this, there is a door out of the Councel, and the Key lyes always by the Duke: There is also a great many Curiosities, as the Sword of Scanderbeg, some Persian Armour, secret Arms, as Halberds that dis|charge several times a Trunk with Pistols, laid Arti|ficially to go off at the opening; Cross-bows to shoot Needles, &c. The fine Church and Monastery of St. George has Note in marg: Monasterio di S. Georgio. Geor|gio. an Island to it self, with a Garden both large and plea|sant: In the Refectory is the excellent Picture, by Pa|olo Veronese, of the Wedding in Canaan, where a|mongst the Musicians he has plac'd himself; this like|wise is one of the four Renowned pieces, and is the freshest and strongest painting of all I have seen.
Before the Church of St. John is a brass Statue of Note in marg: S. Gio. e Paolo. Bartolomeo Colone on Horse-back: In the Chappel of St. Hiacinth the Martyrdome of the two Patrons, by Titian, which is the third famous piece; and that of Mich. Angelo's last Judgment at Rome makes the fourth: In the Refectory is a Painting by Paolo Ve|ronese, almost equal to his other; the Cloister and Dormitory very noble.
In St. Salvatore there is two Pictures by Titian, of Note in marg: S. Salvatore the Transfiguration and Annunciation.
The Church of our Lady is built in an Oval, but Note in marg: Madonna di Salute. not yet finish'd, was a Vow of the Senates in a great Plague.
In this Monastery of the Carita, there is the raising Note in marg: La Carita. up of Lazarus, painted by Bassan.
The Arsenal is esteem'd three miles in compass, but Note in marg: Arsenal. though not half so much, is vastly great, having Rooms not only for materials, and to make all sorts of Provisions of War, and Magazines for them, when done, but
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their Docks for Galleys, Ships, &c. are there also, and every thing that appertains to them, there furnish'd and wrought; all which employs constantly about 1500. Men. In two Chambers above-stairs are Arms for 50000. men, and in two other Rooms the same for 60. Gallies, among which there is the rich Bucentoro, gilded and carved all over, on which the Doge and Senators go to wed the Sea. The Island of Murano is the place where their Glass|houses Note in marg: Murano. stand, whose Trade is infinitely decreas'd, and the Canal by it, the place of Corso, where the Summer Evenings the Ladies take the Fresco.
The Diversions there in Carneval, are variety of Note in marg: Carnevale. Habits and Humors, 10000. meeting every After-noon in St. Marks Piazza, of almost so many different Shapes and Gestures, where there is freedom of saying or do|ing any thing whilst mask'd: After 'tis dusk, many of the best quality retire to the Ridotti, a sort of Gaming houses where they play at Cards, or talk with the La|dies, a liberty they only have at this Season, and for that reason, the men in general are Cuckolded but once a year, from thence they either go to the Comedies or incomparable Opera's, where the Scenes and Voices so far excel the French, that they have scarce resem|blance. Towards the latter end of Carneval, they make sport with Baiting of Bulls, and some of their heads are cut off with Swords at a blow: They have Girls, Boys, &c. that play all the Tricks on the high and low Rope, flye down from St. Marks Steeple, with Fire works, &c. In the Cavallerizzo I saw twelve no|ble Venetians richly arm'd and drest with Point, Fea|thers, and Habits of different colours (to distinguish them) perform on Neapolitane Horses all the exercises of Lance, Sword, and Pistol; at Sea-monsters so plac'd,
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that they made a pretty Figure in the action; after|wards the Deities of Earth and Sea in great Machines being present, to the Musick, soft Tromba, and incom|parable Voice of rare Antonina, gallop'd and stopt in such excellent time and order, that no Country Dance was ever better perform'd, not the least mistake or error happening all the time. The Soveraignty is in the Grand Councel, which Note in marg: Government. Govern|ment. consists of all the other Councels and Magistrates; next in the Senate, or Pregadi, the Colledge, the Councel of Ten, the Quarante Criminale, &c.
The Grand Councel having the Supream power, con|fers Note in marg: Grand Councel. Dignities, makes Laws, Creates Magistrates, and all the other Councels, and into it no Noble Venetian can enter, before the Age of 25. years, except by Balloting for it, and then if it be his lot, he may sit at 20.
The Pregadi are the body of the Senate, so called Note in marg: Pregadi. from being pray'd to come to Councel, has now an ad|dition of 60. more, called the Giunto, and admits be|sides the Colledge, the Concillij Criminali, the Coun|cel of Tenn, and some other Magistrates, in all to the number of 276. who Vote by little soft Balls like But|tons, white and yellow put into a Box devided, of the same colours, which takes away all fear of making Ene|mies, and prevents Cabals and Factions: To these are belonging 24. Secretaries, 12. attending, the others with Embassadors.
The Colledge consists of the Doge, and six Coun|cellors, Note in marg: Colledge. together stiled the Sigria. and the eldest of them, in the Doges absence supplies his place, so that busi|ness has no delay: There sits likewise three Capi, of the Quarante Criminale, which represent that Coun|cel; six Savij Grandi, five di Terra Ferma, and five Savij alli Ordini; which last, are young men, plac'd
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there only to Learn: These receive Petitions, open Let|ters, give Audience to publick Ministers, &c. but no positive Answers, those depending on the Senate. Note in marg: Embrs. Aud. At the Entrance of Embassadors into this Colledge, they all rise up, and are bare, except the Doge, who is so only to Cardinals and Princes, on whose right hand they are afterwards plac'd.
The Doge is chosen by all the Nobility of above Note in marg: Doge. thirty years old, by Ballotting several ways for Electors, and then they again for others, varying so often to pre|vent Factions: The Duke, when Elected, has no So|veraignty but in Name, the honour of a Throne, his Mantle and fantastick Crown; yet to make him some|thing esteem'd, they allow all Letters to be directed to him, Money Coyn'd, and Dispatches Sign'd by him, but no Guards, least he should make himself more conside|rable: His constant Revenue but 100. Zecchins a week, and his Children and Brothers deprived th'en|joying any great charge in the State, during his Life, he himself not being permitted to go out of Venice without Leave, and is then without any power.
The Councel of Tenn now increas'd to the number Note in marg: Councel of Tenn. of Seaventeen, besides the Duke and his six Councellors, Elected of different Families, without the least affinity or Alliance; are Judges of Treasons and all Criminal matters of highest importance, and Instituted for a check upon the Nobilli: These chuse amongst them|selves Note in marg: Inquisitors. three Inquisitors of State, who serve by turns, have power to enquire against the Doge himself, and every slight suspicion is sufficient to Banish, Imprison, or punish with Death, without mercy, any that reveal their secrets, or Usurp any of the publick Treasure, or Revenue, not regarding the doing an Injustice to par|ticulars for the publick good.
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The 40 Criminale is form'd most of the Nobilli too; Note in marg: Quaranta Criminale. of which sort of Council, there are two more, of a second Rank, or Poorer Nobillity; instituted, that none might be discontented, but every one might have his share in the Government: The one is called Civil Vecchia; the other, Civil Nuova: The first, for Appeals from the City, the latter from the Country; and they sit in Se|nate by turns, every sixteen Moneths; which Change is practis'd, in the Senate it self, the Councel of Tenn, and in all other Offices, and Magistrates, except the Chancellor: The People by that means, in a little space, being freed from Oppression, and ill Governours, if such should chance to be Elected: Besides, so many Councels prevents the Altering of the Government; which from a few, might easier succeed, and sooner dis|patch Business.
The Six Savij Grandi, are a kind of Ministers of State; who every day after Councel, consult together Note in marg: Savij Grandi. Gran|di. of that Dayes Business; and once a Week, carry what is Ripe to the Senate; and being Men of great Experi|ence, their Preparation prevents the Confusion that would arise from so many Opinions; the Ignorant be|ing ever the greatest Number in all Assemblies.
The Savij di Terra Ferma are inferior to the For|mer; Note in marg: 5 Savij di Terra Ferma. Fer|ma. can give their Votes in the Colledge, but not in the Senate: And of these are chosen the Savio Cas|siere, and the Savio alla Scrittura; the first provides and disburses the Money; the other has the Superinten|dance of the Militia.
The Procuratorij ought to be but Nine, but are now Note in marg: Procuratorij. Procura|torij. Thirty six; encreased by their Necessities in the Warr of Candia, then selling these Honours, for 20000 Duc|cats a piece; but as they dye, will come to their first Institution. The Dignity is esteem'd very great; for,
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having the doors of the Senate always open to them, and freed from being sent Embassadors, except in ex|traordinary; yet this Office nevertheless is void of all power, not having the liberty to enter either into the Grand Councel, or that of Tenn, but is purely Church|warden, and without any other Authority than what relates to the Church of St. Mark, the having a care of Orphans, &c. Citizens are admitted to have several Charges; one Note in marg: Grand Chancellor. of the Principal is made Grand Chancellor, with the Title of Exc^Single illegible letter. Ducal habit, and the priviledge to enter into Senate, Councels, &c. where he may give his O|pinion, but not Vote; his allowance 3000. Duccats a year, and worth 10000. more, is the only place that is for term of Life, and esteem'd the best in the Re|publique.
They have also three Avogadors, a sort of Attorney Note in marg: Avogadors. General, which to make more fierce and keen, are al|low'd good part of the Estates Confiscated: The seve|ral Providitori, &c. because too tedious, I omit; but 'tis to be observ'd that no man is suffer'd to enjoy two places, be they never so inconsiderable, and the Nobi|lity must run through the most inferior employments, before they can possess those that are desirable, by which means they arrive at the great ones, when they are in riper years, and fitter to manage them, and the small ones are not despised; for if any refuse the charge he is Elected to, he is fined 2000. Duccats, and Banish'd the Grand Counsel for two years.
The noble Families, with those added in the War of Note in marg: Number of Nobility. Candia, are about 220. and before that, to conceal their small number, and take away emulation, they gave leave to Secretaries, Lawyers, Physicians and Nota|ries to wear their habits, which they still continue.
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They are so Jealous of one anothers aspiring to the Note in marg: Jealousie. Soveraignty, that they will not suffer Popularity in a|ny, and therefore poyson'd Loredano for having emi|nently served his Country in quieting and appeasing a Tumult with his single presence, that none of the Magistrates with Arguments or Force could prevail upon.
To speak with any forreign Minister, or his Ser|vants, is no less than Treason, and therefore they flye them like the Plague, a Policy in such a Government, absolutely necessary, for in so great an Assembly there will be some, from whom Embassadors by their presents would not want Intelligence of their greatest secrets, and now no Treasure or Reward can prevail to make them hang upon the Gallowes by the foot.
Their own Embassadors, at their return, are oblig'd to give in writing an account of their Negociation, and to lay their presents before the Senate which marks of honor, they are nevertheless not deprived of.
In the Government they leave the Reins loose, in all Note in marg: Policy. things that are not directly prejudicial to the State; their greatest Vices, Wenching and Gaming, are coun|tenanc'd, because it renders them too Slothful and Ef|feminate to think of Rebellion; and in imitation of the Nobility, the Religious also take their liberty, it not being in the power of the Nuncio nor Pope him|self to hinder; for the Secular Magistrate can only im|prison, who will rather protect than punish; and they would not have the Priests of Exemplar piety, lest they should by the Vulgar be too much lov'd and rever'd, which might at one time or other prove dan|gerous to the State; besides, by conniving at their De|bauchery, they can the easier get their Monasteries sup|press'd by the Pope when they have need of money.
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The Spiritual affairs are govern'd by a Patriarch, Note in marg: Patriarch and Inquisition. which always is a noble Venetian, and chosen by the Senate, who have plac'd three Nobles also in the In|quisition, as Assistants, without which the Ecclesiasticks can effect nothing; and order'd that the goods of the Condemn'd should not go to the Church, but to the Heirs of the Criminal; so that, that, which in other places is a terrible Tribunal, there frights no body, having power only to act by the Senates will, who suf|fer Heresie because 'tis a City of Trade, and other Crimes and Sins being inferior to that, are not minded; Lutherans too, &c. are without scruple Bury'd in their Churches.
When any Dispatch arrives from Rome, the Senate Note in marg: Pope oblig'd. ob|lig'd. make use of two Doctors, one of Divinity, the other of Law; and the latter is to observe there be nothing in it any way to the damage of the State; and then ha|ving both Sign'd it, 'tis presented to the Senate, with|out whose assent no Bull has there any force; and if it require any Answer, those two above-nam'd Doctors form it to their mind; and then sending for the Nun|cio, tell him in very good words their Resolution; and if he reply, or desire any further satisfaction in the mat|ter, they are silent; and any Senator that has Relation to a Cardinal, or Popes Nephew, &c. cannot be at such debate.
The Devotion of the City in general, is after the Note in marg: Devotion. Example of the young Nobilli, who use the Churches chiefly for Love appointments: And for the Monaste|ries of Women, their Exercises are such as would have made even Aretine to blush, being accused of Wantonness, Shameful, and Incredible.
They permit abundance of Jews to Live and Trade Note in marg: Jews. there, who are obliged to keep a small Banck to lend
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to the Poor on Pawns, without Interest; and wear red Hats for distinction: These for their reputed Secrecy are very much cherish'd by the Nobility, there not being one but has his Jew for his Confident, nor Jew with|out his Protector. Their Territroies on Terra serma, are put into these divisions, La Marca Treviggiana, Il Friuli, Il Padou|ano, Note in marg: Government Govern|ment of Terra ferma. Il Vicentino, Il Veronese, Il Bresciano, Il Bergamasco, Il Cremasco; then part of Dalmatia, Istria, the Islands of Corsu, Zante, and Cephalonia, Cerigo, TSingle illegible letterne, and three places still remaining to them in the Kingdom of Candia. In the Government of these, to make them most secure, they do all they can possible to keep the Nobility at odds, and make them to each other mortal Enemies, a Policy begun by Erizzo Lieutenant of Udine, who observing the great Unity and Friendship of that Gentry, and natural Affection to the House of Austria, writ to the State that they would provide some remedy for the inconveniences that might grow from it. The advice was grateful, and im|mediately they sent him Ducal Letters to confer the Dignities of Counts on several of the most ancient Fa|milies, which he was to do on pretence of rewarding their merits: These Honours were greedily received, and immediately between them and those that wanted, grew a mortal feu'd, not yet extinguish'd, which has not only prevented them from having any Plots or In|telligence with their Neighbors, but by their frequent quarrels and follies, made them forfeit most of their E|states, to the great advantage of the Venetians.
Their strongest places are Orsinuovi, Peschiera, Note in marg: Places of Strength. Linago, Castel di Brescia, Castel S. Felice di Ve|rona and Palma Nuova in Friuli, which is one of the best, being round, with nine Royal Bulworks, three
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miles in compass, and requires 8000. Men. It is a Fortification against Germany, and secures that Coun|try from the Ravage of the Turks. As to their Souldiers, the Republique is serv'd by Note in marg: Souldiers, Galleys, &c. Strangers, Germans and others, their Militia of Terra Ferma being of little Value, having no experience; but they think them useful on any suddain Alarm, and might resist till they could provide better; besides, do serve to make a show to their Neighbors of seeming al|ways Arm'd: Their own people they dare not train, nor of them compose an absolute Army, lest they should turn their Arms upon the Nobility themselves, who they perfectly hate: The State therefore leaves them freely to enjoy all manner of Sloth and Luxury; the Republique by their Mony only, and others Dissenti|ons, having made themselves thus considerable, not by their own Valour. Of this Militia (such as it is) they have 139. Companies, and the Captains and Serjeants have Pay; they have besides 20. Companies, of 200. each; and 15. Troops of Horse that are all paid; six Gallys always in the Gulf, and 30. more in rea|diness, which they can double upon occasion.
Their Revenue is about four Millions and a half Note in marg: Revenue. yearly of Duccats, but in time of War they encrease their Gabels and Impositions on all things, which is ever paid without Force or Violence. In the last War with Candia, they sold all Offices, by which they rais'd 500000. Duccats, the Lands that was given to the Church of St. Mark, Commons, &c. besides the great sum by the suppress'd Monasteries, and the advantage they had by leaving the door of Honour open to all that brought 100000. Duccats to be made noble; which last has been of ill Consequence, for being most Mer|chants that were so admitted, that mony, and they, being
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otherwise employ'd, they have since considerably decay'd in their Trade; the soul of that, and all other States: In the same time they also had a Lottery, with which they got a very great sum of money, and drew most of it out of Strangers pockets, and a long time publickly delay'd the giving the Prizes, alledging they were not all drawn; so had the use of both. Of greatest advantage is the Banco di Giro, where Note in marg: Banco di Giro. the Republick have the Benefit of more than five Millions of Duccats without a farthing Interest; every Merchant putting in part of his Estate there, which upon any bargain is pass'd to another without other de|lay or circumstance, then altering the name; and if any man would have ready money for his Intrest in it, there are always those ready to give it him; and who have not moneys in this manner, have not any Credit; for there they go to see the worth first of him they intend to trust, and accordingly confide.
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Duccats. Datij di Venezia 1724988 Decime ordinarie 240000 Dalli Taglioni 80000 Dall Impositione del Campadego 70000 Dalle Decime del Clero 10000 Dalli Contributioni dell'arti 60726 Dall Universita dell Hebrei 52000 D'uffitij e Cariche Vitalitie 25000 Dalli Datij di Terra ferma 1168973 Dalle Decime 2810000 Dalli Taglioni 110000 Dall' Impositione del Campadego 90000 Dalle Decime del Clero 100000 Dalle Colte 40000 Rendite di Dalmatia 11448 Rendite delle tre Isole 132258 4195393
Constant Disbursments out of the Treasury. Duccats. Officiali del Arsenale 124000 Per comprare Robbe bisognose al detto Arsenale 89033 Frutti chepaga la Zecca 1692657 Per Salnitri 36000 Per Paga del Armata e suoi Bisogni 399043 Per i Biscotti 200000 Per mantenemento delle Fortezze 29000 Militie e Fortezze delle tre Isole 200053 Salarij del Sermo. Doge 97778 Cancellaria Ducale 11910 Per spese straordinarie 148924 Per il Magistrato dell Aque 40738 Per l'occorrenze del Cono. di Dieci 42350 Per la Fanteria di Terra ferma 128140 Per la Cavalleria della Medesima 32380 Per la Cavalleria di Dalmatia 31680 Per l'Offitiali condotti 25000 3135786 Traffick for many Reasons is forbidden to the No|bili; Note in marg: Traffick. yet privately nevertheless, most of them do use it; but the Trade in General, now is very inconsiderable, having long agoe lost that of the Indies from Aleppo, and since that with the Turks, the Genoese being crept into it; besides what the English and Dutch did fur|nish in the time of their War with Candia; before which they made in Venice yearly 2600. Cloaths, now
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not 500. which they sent into Turkie, besides Silks, Gold, Silver, Christal Glasses, &c. some of which went further on into Persia, Arabia, and Armenia. To a|void Transportation of their Mony to any Forraign Country, they wear nothing but their own Manufacture, having very severe Laws against Extravagance of Habit. The Pope and this Republique are like those Twins, which Note in marg: Intrest with Pope. growing together in their bodys, find such Impediment, that the one would certainly destroy the other, if they did not both know that on the life of his Companion depended his own, and not daring to Ruine, they assist each other.
To Savoy (though they hate that Duke for his pre|tension Note in marg: Savoy. to Cyprus) they always give their assistance, lest a more powerful Neighbour should come in his place.
They have much esteem and affection for the great Note in marg: Tuscany. Duke, believing him very wise, and of great knowledge in State affairs, and because Neutral to the two power|ful Crowns of France and Spain, and as a mark of their respect, his Resident is received with open doors, a Complement not allow'd to any other Prince in Italy.
There was anciently great Enmity between the State Note in marg: Genoua. of Genoua and this Republick; but since they appear'd for the Intrest of France, as well as Spain, it is much lessen'd.
The Duke of Mantoua they call their Son, having Note in marg: Mantoua. been under their Protection in his Minority, and upon any occasion are ready to defend his State at their own expence, being desirous he should absolutely depend up|on them.
With Modena they are luke-warm, and with Parma Note in marg: Modena and Parma. no correspondence; upon occasion of a disgust given
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his Resident at Venice, whether now he sends no more. With the Swizzers and Grisons they have great Note in marg: Swizzers and Grisons Friendship, as well in respect of resemblance of Go|vernment, as to resist Spain or the Emperor; against ei|ther of which, for their sakes they would make no scru|ple to declare open War, and do the like to France.
To the Emperors damage they are always forward to Note in marg: Emperor. contribute where it is not prejudicial to themselves, and the rather, because conscious how much they Usurp of his, They conclude he can never be their Friend; and are so strickt in their Dominion over the Adriatick, that they make him pay an acknowledgment for all Vessels that come into any of his own Ports in that Sea.
With Spain at present they have a pretty good Note in marg: Spain. Correspondence, because more inconsiderable than it for|merly was.
There is no Nation they hate so much as the French, Note in marg: France. for they look upon them as Authors of the War in Can|dia, and the loss of it too, giving them seeming suc|cours only, and behaved themselves there, as they did in their Fleet, assisting of the English.
With England they ever had, and still have a good Note in marg: England. Correspondence.
With Holland they did believe they should have had Note in marg: Holland. a lasting Amity, since they had both the same designes and the same fears from the two Crowns; but now out of Emulation of the Hollanders too great Dominion at Sea, there is no more that Friendship.
Denmark and Sweden are so remote, that they are Note in marg: Denmark & Sweden. insignificant to them, but their good wishes they would soonest bestow on the latter.
With the Great Turk they are forc'd to keep an Em|bassador, Note in marg: G. Turk.
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called il Bailo, lest he ravish some of their Territories in Dalmatia, &c. and out of that fear, fre|quently make presents to him, and the principal Sul|tana's in the Seraglio.
PADOUA Stands on the River Brent; on the Banks Note in marg: Padoua. of which, all the way to it, are Villas of the noble Ve|netians; 'tis environ'd with a Ditch, and great Ram|parts fac'd with Stone, but not alla moderna; is very large, and therefore very weak, low Built, few Inha|bitants, and most of the Houses upon Portico's of very ordinary Pillars. It has about 400. Schollars and 40. Professors, paid by the Republick, but scarce any Col|ledges: The Anatomy Schools only are remarkable, and the great Hall of Justice big almost as that in Westminster, and like it, without Pillars: In the Sci|tuation, and in every thing else it very much resembles Pisa.
The Church of St. Anthony has on the side of it in Note in marg: S. Antonio. Mezzo Relievo, the History of its Patron, and some of the Figures, by Sansovinus; and before his Tomb hang thirty or forty Lamps of Silver: On the other side lyes famous Gatto Mela, the Venetian General, who near the Church has his Statue on Horse-back, made by a Florentine.
Sa. Giustina is plain, but Majestick; the Archi|tecture Note in marg: Sa. Giustina much esteem'd, being built by Paladio; the floor Marble, black and yellow, finer than can be exprest, and the high Altar suitable: here are the Tombs of St. Luke and St. Matthias, and the Martyrdom of Sa. Giustina, painted by Paolo Veronese; the Mona|stery also is very fine and large; by it is the Campo Santo.
There is also a Church dedicate to our Saint Thomas Note in marg: S. Tomaso di Cantuaria. Cantua|ria. of Canterbury, and in it lyes an English Lady, Ka|therine Whittenhal.
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In the Street is the old Tomb of Anteonor, with Note in marg: Anteonor's Tomb. Gothick Letters on it, which makes it doubted whether his or not.
'Tis govern'd by a Podesta, as the rest of their Note in marg: Governor. Cities; a Magistrate that Judges on Life and Death, but suffers the Inhabitants to quarrel as much as they please; for the Padoans having been the Creators of the Venetians, now hate the very name; and they knowing it, suffer them to destroy one another, and gain that way a sweet revenge, having their Estates too into the bargain: The Schollars imitate the others, and have continually a civil War amongst them, but are seldom punish'd, lest is might perhaps be less famous for Anatomy, or that they should forsake the Town which wholly subsists by them. These Podestas have also the power to lay Tolls, have the care of High|ways, Hospitals, &c. Live in State, attended by Gentle|men; have their Guards, Coaches, Pages, &c. Are allow'd a Councel, but their Government not above two or three years durance.
That the Venetians receive by all sorts of Duties Note in marg: Revenue. and Impositions on the City and Country, is annually 174224. Duccats.
VICENZA Is a very pleasant Town, in a delicious Note in marg: Vicenza. Country, stands upon two Rivers, and near agreeable Hills; has many fine Pallaces, most noted is that great one in the Piazza, with the Gardens of Valmarana, Orangerie, Canal, &c. The Theatre built by Palladio, of a particular manner, and his Triumphal Arch by the Corso. This City and Province is Govern'd also by a Podesta, and the Revenue the Venetians draw from it, is 105311. Duccats annually.
VERONA Is very large, stands high, in a good Note in marg: Verona Air, and pleasantly; is generally well Built, full of People, abounds with all sorts of Provisions, has the
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Adice, a noble River runs winding through it, with four Bridges over it; has five handsome Gates and two Castles; has two Piazzas, one for Gentlemen, another for Merchants, and an old Amphitheatre, almost per|fect on the In-side, us'd by the City for several Sports. In the Monastery of St. George is that Saints Picture, made by Paolo Veronese, so much esteem'd that a Lord-Marshal of England could not buy it for 2000. Pistols. The Government is as the two former Pro|vinces, and the Revenue to the State yearly 139845. Duccats. In this Province is a Lake of 36. miles long; and Note in marg: Lago di Garda. near 14. broad, as clear as Christal, full of incompa|rable Trouts and Carpioni; the Country about it most delicious, affording excellent Moscatello, and all things that can be wish'd for: At the end of it stands a great Note in marg: Peschiera. Cittadel, call'd Peschiera, regular with five Bastions, through which all pass they please to permit, and not possible for any else.
BRESCIA Is pleasant, has Walls and Ramparts, Note in marg: Brescia. is indifferently well built, not so well, nor by much so large as Verona; has nevertheless several Pallaces, one new one with a flat Roof, whose Spouts are held by the Figures of Women, leaning over, as it were peeping at those that pass: In the mid'st of the Town, on rais'd ground, is an old Castle, and divers little Rivelets run through it; 'tis famous for Gun-Smiths, whose work is admirable for its cheapness as well as curiosity. The Revenue to the Venetians, out of this Province, is yearly 203680 Duccats.
CREMA Is a pretty little Town, and well Forti|fied, Note in marg: Crema and Bergamo. but worse than Brescia in all respects; parallel with Bergamo, both Frontiers to the Spaniards, but the latter the most considerable; four miles beyond
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these Cities the Venetian Territories end, which hi|ther is 160. miles; a Country like a Garden, with innumerable Rivelets and Brooks, and so fertile that I cannot remember I saw one ASingle illegible letterre of bad ground in it. The Revenue of this Province yearly, is 180592. Duccats to the Venetians.
LODINUOVA: The Spanish Frontier to the Ve|netians Note in marg: Lodi Nuova. Nuo|va. stands upon rising ground, has a River runs by it, is a v[...] little Town, and as indifferently Forti|fied.
MANTOUA has Single illegible letter secure, but base Scituation, Note in marg: Mantoua. being inviron'd with Marshes, and a Lake, so that there is but two entrances to it, and those over Bridges: The Town is inconsiderable; the Duke a petty Soveraign, of the same force and strength of Parma or Modena, having scarce 400000. Crowns yearly Revenue: His Intrest like the rest, to be of any mans side that can protect him.
MIRANDOLA is another Principality, whose lit|tle Note in marg: Mirandola. Monarch, with all sorts of Taxes and Impositions cannot make himself a Revenue greater than an Eng|lish Noble-man, being at most but 60000. Crowns a year.
NOVARA Is a Town not well Built, but well For|tified; Note in marg: Novara. is very populous, and the Frontier to Pied|mont: nine miles beyond which, the Spanish Domini|ons end.
VERCELLI, The Duke of Savoys Frontier Town Note in marg: Vercelli. to the Spaniards has on one side a little River, and is admirably Fortified to be on such a Sandy place: The Bastions are all very fresh and regular, and the watch Towers cover'd with Tin, which looks very prettily; the second Gate at the entry from Milan is nobly Built, but the Town very indifferently, yet not very little: Here every one speaks both Italian and French.
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CASAL, a little Town of the Duke of Mantoua's, Note in marg: Casal. and one of the strongest in Italy; has the River Po on one side, and a great Cittadel on the other, besides excellent Walls, Ditches, and Ramparts.
ITALY in GENERAL, except the Appennines, (which is a fourth part of it) is a perfect Garden; the Note in marg: Italy in General. Ge|neral. Trees and lusty Vines being every where set in order, most of it fertile, beyond expression; abounds with Ri|vers and Christal Lakes, excellent Pastur[...]e enclos'd with Quicksets, Lanes, &c. like England; has the most and the finest Cities, Church[...]· Pallaces, Gardens, Vil|la's, &c. of any Territory of its extent in the World; and this advantage above all other Countries in Eu|rope, that it produces all that they do, and that which they have not. Its Wines are incomparable, and of infinite variety and delicacy, pleasing at once both scent and tast; The Provisions of all sorts excellent, exceeding England in some things, and France in all.
The Horses admirable, both for shape and mettle, Note in marg: Horses. and they ride and drive them very like the English.
The Gentry so courteous and civil, that except in Note in marg: People. matters of Love, 'tis impossible to offend them; and to a Stranger they will almost pardon any thing.
Very constant in their Friendship, but at first Note in marg: Humour. sight not so familiar as the French, being generally more reserv'd, and too wise to be impertinent, or to be any mans Friend, or Enemy, where there's no reason for it.
Are of such a happy temper, that they can be ex|cellent Note in marg: Temper and Learning. Learn|ing. in any thing they please to undertake, even in Buffonncrie and Fooling, out-doing Monsieur himself, in whom 'tis natural; and besides their being the greatest Souldiers and Generals of all Ages, and ex|celling too in Politicks, the Mathematicks and solid Learning for Architecture, Sculpture; Musick, and
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Painting, are as much admired by the wisest of the World, as France is by others, for their Modes of Ha|bit, Speaking, Dancing, Riding, &c. The Ladies have fine Shapes and Features, rare Note in marg: Women. Eyes and Teeth, and colour generally not inferior to the more Northern Countrys, (excepting some very flaxen Beauties which a too feeble Sun has left unripe) and have as few ill breaths as crooked amongst them.
Their [...]rtues as great as any Womens, seldom be|ing Unchast, without Temptation, and then with such Note in marg: Vertues. secresie and caution, undefined span of illegible text is scarce a fault.
Have great Wit, and such variety of Charms, that Note in marg: Wit and Charms. their Love never cloys; and their incomparable Voices, and sweet Language, added to the rest, makes Italy a Paradice.
FINIS.
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Author: Barri, Giacomo, ca. 1630-ca. 1690.
Title: The painters voyage of
The painters voyage of
Licensed,
Roger L'Estrange. Decemb. 6. 1678.
[Figure:
PICTVRA
The Painters Uoyage of ITALY
Roma
W: Lodge [...] et fecit.
]
THE PAINTERS VOYAGE OF ITALY.
IN WHICH All the famous Paintings of the most emi|nent Masters are particularised, as they are preserved in the several Cities of ITALY.
Chiefly relating to Their Altar-pieces, and such other Paint|ings as are Ornamental in their Churches.
And Also Many choice Pictures, kept as Jewels, in the Palaces of particular persons.
Whereunto is added That excellent Collection of Signior SEPTALE, in his Closet at
Illustrated with The Heads of some of the most renowned Painters.
Written Originally in Italian by Giacomo Barri a Venetian Painter. Englished by W. L. of Lincolus-Inme, Gent.
LONDON, Printed for Tho. Flesher, at the Angel and Crown in S. Pauls Church-yard. 1679.
TO The Right Honourable THOMAS, Lord BELLASIS, Viscount FAULCONBERG.
My Lord,
WHen I had the ho|nour to attend your Lordship in your Embassy to the
My LORD, Your Lordship's most obliged and most obedient Servant W. L.
To the ingenious READERS.
HAving, not many years since, given my self the satisfaction of personally viewing the most prin|cipal Places and Rarities of
W. L.
[Figure:
ITALIA by Robert Morden at the Atlas in Cornhil London [Figure: map of Italy] ]
THE TABLE.
A. ANcona. Pag. 27 Asolo. 105
B. Bolognia. 33 Burano. 91 Bassano. 106 Br[...]scia. 113
C. Citta di Castello. 24 Cividall. Conegliano. 100 Coneda. 103 Castello di S. Salvatore, 101 Castell Franco. 106 Cittadella. 107 Cremona. 114, 154 Corte Maggiore nel Pia|centina. 135 Carpi. 140
F. Fuori di Roma. 23 Fuligno. 24 Fano. 29 Furli. 29 Faenza. 32 Ferrara. 33 Fiorenza. 115 Finale di Modena. 139
G. Genoa. 114, 154
I. Imola. 30 Isola dì S. Elena. 92 Isola della Gudiecha. 94 Isola di S. Giorgio. 93
L. Loretto. 26 Lucca. 155
M. Macerata. 26 Murano 88 Mazorbo. 90 Montanagna. 109 Modena. 136 Mantua. 141 Milano. 143
N. Napoli. 159
P.
Perugia. 25
Pesaro. 28
Pordenon. 98
R.
Roma. 1
Rimini. 30
S.
Senegaglia. 31
Seravall. 104
T.
V.
Urbino. 32
1
The State or Territory OF THE CHURCH, Within the City of
The Church of S. Peter. AS you enter at the great Door, the first Chappel on the right hand of the Cru|cifix is all painted by the hand of Lanfranco.
Then follows in the same part of the Church the great Altar-piece of the Martyrdom of S. Se|bastian, a singular work of Dominichino.
The Cuppola over this Altar is Mosaick work, and the Design of Pietro da Cortona.
In like manner follows the Chappel of the Sacrament, where is a Piece of the same Pietro da Cortona representing the Coronation of our B. Lady. The Cuppola of this Chappel is also Mosaick, and the Design of the same Authour.
Walking under this Chappel, on the front there is a Square of Mutiano.
2 Following on, in the cross Isle on the right hand there is a Side of one of the Altars, which is the work of Monsieur Possine, representing the Miracle of S. Erasomus, a very beautifull piece.
Being gone a little farther, you see the fa|mous little Bark of S. Peter, a singular good work of Lanfranco.
The Square right over against this is the hand of Camassei, and denotes the Miracle done by the Apostle S. Peter, when he caused the wa|ter to spring up in the Prison for baptizing withall.
Then follows directly in view the speciall Picture which demonstrates when S. Petronilla was laid in the Sepulchre: it is the work of Guercin da Cento.
Turning towards the Chair at the head of the Church, and having passed the said Chair, you see on your left hand a stately Picture which re|presents S. Peter going to the Temple with S. John, and doing the Miracle of curing the lame: a most superb work of Chivoli.
Advancing a little forward along the cross Isle, and being past the Sacristie, there is a Picture which denotes the Miracle of S. Gregory holding a bloudy Handkerchief in his hand: a most beautiful work of Andrea Sacchi.
Those Pictures of the four Altars under the Pilasters of the great Cuppola are by the hand of the same Sacchi.
3 The Church of S. Martha behind S. Peter's. Entring this Church at the great Door you see the Picture of S. Ursilla, and on the left hand is a Picture of two [Note: Or Hermits. ] Eremits, the work of Lanfranco.
The Church of S. Peter in Montorio. Here you will admire the most famous great Altar-piece, and, as I may say, the unparallel'd Picture of great Raphael. It signifies the Trans|figuration of our Saviour.
The Church of S. Onofrio. Before you enter this Church, there is a little Lodgment wherein are painted three Half-moons, by the hand of Dominichino.
Within this Church on the right hand there is a Picture which represents the Holy House as it was transported into
The Church of S. Mary in Transtevere. Upon the Roof of this Church is a Square, wherein you find represented the Assumption of our B. Lady; a beautifull work of Dominichino.
4 The Church of S. Francis on the Bank. Entring at the great Gate, there stands a Pic|ture within a Chappel on the left hand, which signifies the Lady of Pietie, the work of Han|nibal Carache.
The Church of S. Bartholomew in the Island. In this Church there are four Chappels pain|ted by Anthony Carache, one on the right hand as you enter the great Door, the other three on the left, all very fair works.
The Church of S. Trinity de ponte Sisto. That Piece of the Trinity of the great Al|tar done by Guido Reno is a work worth great admiration.
The Church of S. Charles de Catenari. The four Angles of the Cuppola do demon|strate the four Cardinal Vertues, by the hand of Dominichino.
The Tribunal of this Church is the hand of Lanfranco.
5 The great Picture is of Pietro da Cortona.
Another Picture of the Pilgrimage of S. Joseph is by Andrea Sacci.
The Church of S. Bridget in Piazza furnete. You will find in this Church an Altar-piece of our Lady with the Child Jesus and S. John, by Hannibal Carache.
The Church of S. Petronio Bolognesi near unto the Farnese. The Piece of the great Altar with our Lady and other Saints is the work of Dominichino.
The Church of Girolamo della Carità. At the great Altar you see most rare Pictures by Dominichino, representing the Communion of the above-named Saint.
The Church of S. Catharina de Funari. Entring at the great Door, the Piece of the first Altar on the right hand, with a S. Margaret and a Christ over the said Altar, is the work of Hannibal Carache.
6 The two Histories on the sides of the great Altar are the works of Frederico Zucchari.
The Church of S. Paul without the Walls. In a Chappel near to the great Altar there are two Squares with the Histories of Moses, and in the Sacristie there are divers other Squares; all the works of Lanfranco.
The Church called the Baptism of Constan|tine near to S. John in the Laterane. Here you see two great Histories: one repre|sents the Battel of the Emperour Constantine the Great; the other is the Triumph of the second Battel: both by the hand of Camassei.
All those Squares around the little Cuppola, as also divers Boys, are the work of Andrea Sacchi.
The Church of S. Paul at the Three Fountains. There is a Table which demonstrates the Cru|cifixion of S. Peter, a most fair work, by Guido Reno.
7 The Church of S. Luke in Campo Vaccino. The great Altar-piece denotes S. Luke as he is painting the Picture of our Blessed Lady; the work of [Note: So termed amongst the Italians. ] divine Raphael.
The Church of S. Lorenzo de Spetiali in Campo Vaccino. The high Altar with the forenamed Saint is the hand of Pietro da Cortona: and entring the same Church, the first Picture on your left hand is the work of Dominichino.
The Church of S. Sebastian above the Pulveriere. Here is the Piece of the great Altar with the Martyrdome of the said Saint, done by the hand of Camassei.
The Church of S. Gregory. In the Chappel of this Saint is a singular good Piece by Hannibal Carache.
8 The Chappel of S. Andrew adjoyning to the foresaid Church of S. Gregory. As you enter this Church, on your right hand you see a History painted in [Note: A particular man|ner different from painting in Oyle. ] fresco, which represents this Saint when he was buffeted; a stupendious work of Domini|chino: on the left hand is, when the said Saint was conducted to his Martyrdome; a singular work of Guido Reno.
In another little Chappel adjoyning to this, you see the little Tribunal, where are divers Boys playing upon variety of Instruments.
The Round Church of S. Stephano. The Picture of the first Chappel as you enter on your left hand with a Madonna and the Child Jesus, S. Elizabeth, a S. John and a Joseph, is the work of divine Raphael.
The Church of S. Bibbiana. Where you may see divers Pictures concer|ning the life of this Saint, by Pietro de Cortona.
9 The Church of S. Maria Maggiore. In the Chappel of our B. Lady are divers Saints, beautifull Pieces, of Guido Reno: the Cuppola of this Chappel is by the hand of Civoli.
The Picture aloft and near to this Chappel sig|nifies a Madonna, by Guido Reno. That Square near to the Crucifix represents when Christ rais'd Lazarus from the dead; 'tis the work of Mutiano.
The Church of Madonna della Victoria. Entring the great Door, the second Chap|pel on the right hand is all painted with the History of S. Francis, by the hand of Domini|chino.
There is another Table of the Trinity, by Guer|cin da Cento.
The Church of S. Bernard, having passed the Four Fountains. The great Altar-piece is the hand of Andrea Sacchi.
In the same Church there is a Picture of S. Ber|nard, by Camassei.
10 The Church of the Fathers Capuchines. As you enter at the great Door, the first Altar on the right hand, representing S. Michael the Arch-angel, is a rare work of Guido Reno: and on the left hand is demonstrated the Conver|sion of S. Paul; a very fair Piece of Pietro da Cortona.
A little onward you see the Picture of the Lady of Piety, by the hand of Camassei.
Then follows a Picture on which is painted the Nativity of our Saviour, by the hand of Lanfranco.
After that is another Picture of the B. Virgin, and an holy Bishop, by Andrea Sacchi.
Afterwards is the high Altar-piece with the Conception of the B. Virgin, the work of Lan|franco.
Let us turn off to the other part of the Church, and we shall see the Picture which de|monstrates St. Anthony of
The Church of S. Isodoro. The great Altar-piece with this Saint praying, is the work of Andrea Sacchi.
11 The Church of S. Joseph. The great Altar-piece represents a Dream of this Saint, by the hand of Andrea Sacchi.
And at your entrance, you distinctly see a piece done by the hand of Lanfranco.
The Church of St. Trinity on the Mount. Here are seen two Chapells, one demonstrates when our Saviour was taken from the Cross; and the other the Assumption of the B. Virgin, both marvellous works of Daniel da Voltera.
The Church of Madonna del Popolo. In the Chapell of the Chigi are several figures of divine Raphaell.
And in the Chapell on the right hand of the great Altar is seen a Piece of the Assumption of the B. Virgin, and above this are several histories, to be reckoned amongst the best works of Han|niball Carache.
The Church of S. Lorenzo in Lucciná. Here is seen a very fair Piece of our Saviour upon the Cross, by the hand of Guido Reno.
12 The Church of S. Maria Inviolata. The Tribunall demonstrates the Assumption of the B. Virgin, an excellent piece, by Camassei.
The Church of S. Romualdo. The Piece of the High-Altar with this Saint, is a most stately work of Andrea Sacchi.
The Church of S. Sylvester upon Monte Cavallo. Being entred the great Door, you may ob|serve in the second Chapell on your left hand, two Freezes of Boyes in [Note: Black and white. ] Chiaro Scuro, by Polidoro.
Then follows the Chapell on the right hand of the great Altar, and there are on the four Angles of the little Cuppola, four Histories of the Old Testament.
The First is Queen Esther falling before the King her Husband.
The Second, as they are discoursing together.
The Third is King David, playing on the Harp, before the Ark.
The Fourth is Judith, when she shews the Head of Holofernes, all by the hand of Domini|chino.
13 The Palace on Monte Cavallo. That Chapell where the Pope sayes Mass is all excellently painted, by Guido Reno.
The Church of Jesus. Entering the great door, on your left hand, you may see many Saints, done by Guiacome Bas|sano.
The high Altar-piece demonstrates the Presen|tation of the B. Virgin at the Temple, by the hand of Mutiano.
The Church of S. Andrew in the Valley. The Tribunall, with the four Angles are mar|vellously well done, by Dominichino.
The Cuppola also is a stately work of Lan|franco.
The Picture of the Blessed Caëtano, is by the hand of Camassei.
And that of the Blessed Andrea Avelino, is the hand of Lanfranco.
The Church of S. Lorenzo in D[...]maso. Here is seen the high Altar-piece, being the work of Frederico Zurthari.
14 The Chapell on the right hand of the great Altar is the work of Pietro da Cartona.
The Spanish Church of S. Giacomo. The Chapell of S. Diego is all painted by Al|bano. The design of Carache.
The French Church of S. Lewis. Entering at the great door, the second Cha|pell an the right hand is all excellently painted, by Dominichino, with the History of the life of S. Cecilia. Onely excepting the Altar-piece which is a copy after Raphael, copied by Guido Reno from the Original, which they preserve at Bolognia.
The great Altar-piece is the work of Gia|como Bassano, representing the Assumption of the B. Virgin.
The Church of the Madonna del Anima. The Altar-piece of one of the Chapells, on the right hand as you enter, is a Madonna, and the work of Julio Romano.
15 The Church of the Madonna della Pace. Entering at the great door, there are over the first Chapell on your right hand, diverse Pro|phets and Sibylls, and are some of the choicest things that ever Raphael painted.
The great Tribunall is all painted by Albano.
The Church of S. Augustino. As you enter at the great door, you may see on your left hand, over a Pilaster, a Prophet and two Boyes, an admirable work of Raphael.
In the Front of the Chapel of S. Tomaso da Villa nova, is to be seen a Picture of Guercin da Cento.
The Chapell on the right hand of the great Altar in the corner of the Church, is all singular|ly well painted by Lanfranco.
The Church of Salvatore in Lauro. The Picture of the Nativity of our Saviour is a fair work of Pietro da Cortona.
There is another Picture of the B. Virgin, with another Saint below; by Albano.
16 The Florentine Church of S. John. Here you will admire a most beautiful Cha|pell, with the History of the Passion of our Sa|viour, by Lanfranco.
The new Church of the Fathers of S. Philippo Neri. The Roof of the Church, and the Cuppola, the four Angles, as also the Tribunall, are state|ly works of Pietro da Cortona.
You may also plainly see two Pieces of Ba|rocci, one represents the Presentation of our B. Lady, the other the Visitation of S. Elizabeth.
The Altar-piece on the Chapell of S. Philip is by the hand of Guido Reno.
And behind the same Altar is another pain|ting, by the hand of Guercin da Centa.
S. Lorenzo alla Sobara, being the Church of the Curtezans. The great Altar-piece is done by Camassei.
[Figure:
MICHAEL ANGILO Nat. Ao 147[...]
[Figure: portrait of Michaelangelo] ]
17 S. Lucia in celsis near to S. Maria Maggiore. There is a Square by Lanfranco, and another by Camassei of S. John Communicating the B. Lady.
The Nunns Church near to S. Mary in Trastevere. The great Altar-piece here is the work o[...] Camassei.
The Palace of the Vatican. In the great Hall here, called the Sala Reggia, you see a Battle, with other large Histories, most beautiful works of Frederico and Tadeo Zuccharo.
After you have seen the aforesaid Hall, you enter into S. Paul's Chapell, which is all painted by Michael Angelo Bonarota; and here you will admire that famous painting of the Universall Judgement.
Let us walk above in the second Gallery, which is all painted by Raphael, with the Hi|stories of the Old, and several of the New Te|stament; The Rabeschi or the Ornaments are painted by John of Udine, Raphael's Scholar; but the design of Raphael.
Being afterwards come within the Chambers, the first Chamber, all beneath the Cornice, is painted with the [Note: Differing from other manners of Painting· ] Cortoni of Raphael.
18 The first History as you enter on your left hand signifies when Constantine the great saw the Holy Cross in the Sky, when he was making an Oration to his Souldiers: Painted by Giulio Ro|mano, a famous Scholar to the abovesaid Raphael.
Then follows the great Battle of Constantine; rarely Painted by the said Giulio.
Then continues the third Picture, which re|presents how Pope S. Silvester Baptized the afore|said Emperour.
The fourth being a Chimney-piece, demon|strates the Baptisme of Fattor Bono, by the hand of Raphael Bergo, a Scholar also of the above na|med Raphael.
Now follows the second Chamber, the which is all Painted by Raphael's own hand, excepting those Histories in Chiaro Scuro, [Note: A terme of art for Black amd White. ] which are Painted by his Scho|lars.
The first History over the door where you enter, represents the Pope hearing of Mass, and a Miracle succeeds.
The third History is when Attila coming with his Army to besiege Rome, against the Pope, there appeared in the Sky S. Peter, and S. Paul.
The fourth demonstrates S. Peter in Prison.
After this there are severall Histories of the Old Testament painted on the Roof.
Then follows the third Chamber, and over the door where you enter, you see represented the Antient School of Athens.
Over against this is an History denoting a disputation concerning the Holy Sacrament.
Over a Window is represented Mount Parnassus.
19 A little below, on the sides of the Windows, is a representation of the Pope and the Emperour giving out the Laws.
There are also divers significations painted on the Roof.
The fourth and last great Chamber is all rare|ly painted by the same Raphael, onely excepting the Roof, which is painted by Pietro Perugino, Raphael's Master.
The four Histories about this Room are these;
First, That over the door where you enter represents the Pope in a Ship.
The Second signifies the Burning of the City of
The Third is when the Pope Crowned the Emperour Charles the Great.
And in the Fourth are many Bishops.
The Palace of the Chigi in the street of Lungara. In a Ground-room of this Palace you see the Study of Painting, and in a little Garden-room is the famous Galatea; the works of great Ra|phael.
The Garden of the Duke Atlanti, as you go to Lungara. Here you will find many Pieces, both by Ra|phael and Giulio Romano.
20 The Palace of Farnese. Here you see a Gallery all painted in Fresco, by the most excellent hand of Hanniball Ca|rache.
In the Wardrobe of the said Palace, there are preserved a great many rare Pictures, by diverse Masters, which I forbear to nominate one by one, for brevity sake.
Within the Garden of the Palace of Chiavica dal Buffolo, you see very fair works of Polidoro and Frederico Zuccharo.
At the Common Store-house over against S. Eustachio, you see a House painted by Frederico Zuccharo.
Upon the Mount Cittorio. Here is a Front of a House, by the hand of Poli|doro.
The Palace of the Verospi. Here is a Chamber painted by Lanfranco, and a Gallery by Albano.
21 The Palace of the Mancini on Monte Cavallo. The Gallery of this Palace is the work of Camassei.
You also see on this Palace that beautifull Au|rora; by Guido Reno.
The Garden of the Mattei in Campo Vaccino. Here is a little Chamber with several naked Women and other ornaments; by the hand of Raphael.
The Palace of Pamphylio in Piazzo Navona. Here you see a Gallery all painted by the hand of Pietro da Cortona.
And in the Hall is a Freeze, by Camassei.
The Front of the middle part of the Palace of the Duke d'Acqua Sparta. This being called La Marchesa d'Oro, is all painted with various resemblances, by the hand of Polidoro.
22 Coming from the Bridge of S. Angelo, and entering the Street De Coronari. Here is a Front of a House in [Note: Being the usual manner of Poli|doro's painting. ] Chiaro Scuro, the work of Polidoro.
Near to the Chiavica of S. Lucia. You see here upon a House divers Histories in Chiaro Scuro, by Polidoro.
The Palace of Barbarini at the Four Fountains. Here you see the great and famous Hall, pain|ted by Pietro da Cortona, being some of the choicest of his works.
Within one of the Chambers there is painted on the Roof, the Divine Wisdom. A choice work of Andrea Sacchi.
On the side of another Chamber is plainly re|presented the Creation of Angels, by Camassei.
Then follows another of Camassei, with the History of the Nine Muses on Mount Parnassus.
Just without the Porto di Castello there is a little House painted by Polidoro.
23
The State or Territory OF THE CHURCH, Without the City of
Grotta Ferrata, being a Monastery of Be|nedictines, two miles distant from Frescati. THe famous works that you will find in the above mentioned Monastery, are worth any ones coming a long journey to see, for they are the choicest things that ever were painted. By the studious hand of Dominichino.
24 The City of Fuligno.
In the Nuns Church, called Le Countesse. HEre you will admire an extraordinary fair Picture of our Blessed Lady upon the Clouds, and diverse Saints below, by the hand of divine Raphael. No Curious person (without a dissa|tisfaction to himself) passes through this City without a sight of this Picture.
The City of Castello.
In the Church of S. Dominico. THere is to be admired a Picture of the E|spousal of the Blessed Virgin with S. Jo|seph; there needs no other commendation, than that it is the hand of Divine Raphael.
25 The City of Perugia.
The Domo, or Great Church. ON the right hand of the great Altar there is a Picture of the taking our Saviour from the Cross. The work of Frederico Barocci.
The new Church of S. Philippo Neri. There is seen a most noble square, of Guido Reno.
The Church of S. Francis. Here you will find the Assumption of the Bles|sed Virgin with the Apostles, by the hand of in|comparable Raphael.
S. Severo being the Church of the Fathers Camaldolesi. Here is an admirable Piece of Christ on high, above the Clouds, and below there are diverse Monks kneeling on the Ground; the work of Raphael.
26 The Church of the Nunns of Monte Lucce. Where there are diverse fair Pieces of the a|foresaid Raphael, and of Giulio Romano.
The City of Macerata.
The Church of the Fathers Capuchines. THe great Altar-piece represents Paradise, a truly divine work of Barocci; and deserves to be seen by every one.
The holy House at Loretto.
The Church of the B. Virgin. IN this Church you meet with a Picture of the Nativity of the B. Virgin, an admirable work of Hanniball Carache.
27 And another in the far end of the Church, which demonstrates an Annunciation; a singu|lar work of Barocci.
After this is the Apothecaries Shop belonging to the holy House, where the Pots and Vessels are all painted by the most excellent hand of Raphael.
The City of Ancona.
The Church of S. Dominico. IN this Church you will find an admirable Picture, by the hand of great Titian.
The Church of the Fathers Franciscans Zoccolanti. Here is seen another Picture of the above na|med Titian. None that are Curious should deceive themselves so much, as to pass by this City and neglect a sight of this Piece.
28 The City of Pesaro.
The Domo. THere is a great Piece towards the middle of the Church, on the right hand as you enter, which is a most beautiful work of Guido Reno.
The Church of the Fathers Franciscans. Here is a little S. Michael, by the hand of Barocci.
The Confraternity of S. Andrew. Here you will see a Picture with the History of that Saint when he came (being called by our Redeemer) to the Apostleship; the work of the aforesaid Barocci.
The Church of the Fraternity of S. Anthony. Here you will admire a most beautiful Piece, by Paulo Veronese.
29 The City of Fano.
The New Church. HEre are seen several small Pictures, done by Guido Reno.
The City of Furli.
S. Girolamo, the Church of the Fathers Zoccolanti. IN the Chapell of the Conception of the B. Virgin, you may observe a representation of this My|stery, with Angels round about, by Guido Reno.
The Church of Madonna del Popolo. There is a Picture, done by Guercin da Cento.
The New Church of S. Philippo Neri. Where is seen a Picture of the Annunciation of the B. Virgin, by the hand of Guercin da Cento.
30 The Church of the Fathers Capuchins. The Piece at the great Altar is the work of Gúercin da Cento.
The City of Imola.
The Church of S. Dominico. AT the farther end of the Quire you will see a Picture with the History of S. Ursula, by the hand of Ludovico Caracci.
The City of Rimini.
The Church of S. Vitale. HEre is seen a Picture with the Martyrdom of this Saint, by Paulo Veronese.
31 The Church of the Oratory of S. Girolamo. Here is the Picture of this Saint, the work of Guercin da Cento.
The City of Senegalia. IN this City is a little Church joyning to the Piazza, where you may see a Picture which represents Christ as he was carried to his Burial, by the hand of Barocci.
The City of Ravenna.
The Domo. IN the Chapell of Cardinal Aldrobandini is an admirable Picture, which demonstrates when it rained Manna. And at the same time you [...]ee an half Figure of our Redeemer compas|sed 32 about with Angels; 'tis the work of Guido Reno.
The Church of S. Vitale. There is a Picture of the Martyrdom of this Saint, by Barocci.
The City of Faenza.
The Church of the Fathers Capuchines. HEre is a large Piece of our B. Virgin, with the Child Jesus, St. Francis, and S. Chri|stina; by the hand of Guido Reno.
The City of Urbino.
The Domo. HEre are diverse Singular good works of Barocci.
33 The City of Ferrara.
The Church of S. Francesca Romana. AT the high Altar is a most beautiful Piece, by Ludovico Caracci.
And in a Friery joining to this Church is a History, by the same Ludovico.
The City of Bolognia.
The Church of S. John on the Mount. I Should do wrong if I did not instruct you where to find that divine Picture of S. Ce|cilia, by the hand of eminent Raphael: it is pre|served in this Church as a precious Treasure of so great a Master: all the Virtuosi which travel by the way of Bolognia cannot depart this City without a sight of such a marvellous Piece.
34 There is likewise another Picture with the History of the most holy S. Rosario, a rare work of Dominichino.
The Church of S. Petronio. In which is seen a famous Picture of S. Rocco, by the hand of Parmegianino.
The Church of the Nunns of S. Margaret. Here is seen a Picture of the B. Virgin, and Christ a Child, as also S. Margaret, with other figures: by the hand of Parmegianino.
The Church of the Monks of S. Michael in Bosco. In the Cloyster of this Church you will ad|mire divers great Histories, which represent the works of S. Benedetto; they are divided into partitions, in Chiaro Scuro, with other pretty conceited ornaments by the hand of the most [Note: Frequently so called amongst the Italians. ] excellent Carache.
There is also another large and beautiful Hi|story by the hand of Guido Reno.
35 The Church of Certosa. In this Church is seen a Picture which de|monstrates S. John Baptist preaching, with two other Histories of the Passion of Christ, by Ludo|vico Caracci.
There is also another famous Picture of the Communion of S. Girolamo, one of the best pieces that ever was painted, by the Excellent Carache.
Without the Gate of the great Street in the Church of the Scalsi, you may see a Picture, by Ludovico Caracci.
The Church of S. Dominico. Here you will admire a Picture of S. Giacinto, and over against it is another of S. Raimondo, and in the Chapell of the Martyrdom of S. Andrew there is the figure of Charity, S. Francis, and S. Dominico, with other things, by the hand of Ca|rache.
You also see on the front over the Tombe in the Chapell of this Saint, a Piece which de|monstrates the said Saint as he Ascends with Christ into Heaven. There is also the B. Virgin and a glory of Angels; by the hand of Guido Reno.
Behind the Pulpit you may see a Picture of the Innocents, by Guido Reno.
36 The Church of S. Francis. Here is an admirable Piece of the Assumption of the B. Virgin and the Apostles, rarely done, by Hannibal Carache.
There is also another Picture with the Con|version of S. Paul, by the hand of Lodovico Ca|racci.
S. George, being the Church of the Fathers Serviti. Where is seen a Picture of the B. Virgin and Christ a Child, and other two Saints besides them, painted by Hannibal Carache.
There is also another rare Piece of the Bap|tisme of Christ, by the hand of Albano.
The Church of S. Gregory. In this Church is seen a Picture of S. John Baptist Baptizing of Christ, by the hand of Lu|dovico Caracci.
And as you enter on your left hand you see a Picture, by Guercin da Cento.
37 The Church of S. Nicolo in the Street of S. Felice. In which is a Picture to be reckoned amongst the Choicest works of Hannibal Carache.
The little Church of S. Bartolomeo di Reno. Where is a Chapel with a Picture, wholly painted by Augustino Caracci.
The Church of S. Salvatore. In this Church you meet with a Picture of the Assumption of the B. Virgin and the Apostles, by the hand of Augustin Caracci.
And that Square of our Saviour in the farther end of the Quire, is by the hand of Guido Reno.
The Church of S. Bernard near the Street of Castiglione. As you enter, on your left hand, in the first Chapell there is a Picture by Ludovico Caracci.
On the left hand of the great Altar is a Square above upon the Wall, by the hand of Guido Reno.
38 The Church of the Augustine Friars, called S. Giacomo. Here is the Picture of S. Rocco, by Ludovico Caracci.
The little Church of S. Rocco, called the Pratello. Where is seen a Picture of this Saint, by Lo|dovico Caracci.
S. Paul, being the Church of the Fathers Teatini. The Picture at the second Chapel as you en|ter on the right hand, is by Lodovico.
The Sagrestie of the Domo. Where is also a Square of the aforesaid Lo|dovico.
The Church of the Nunns of S. John Baptist. On Your left hand as you enter, the Picture at the second Chapell, as also the great Al|tar-piece 39 are the works of the same Lodo|vico.
The Church of the Nuns of Corpo di Christo. On each side of the great Door you will see a Picture, of the aforesaid Lodovico.
The Church of S. Ursula. The Piece at the great Altar represents the Martyrdome of this Saint; there is another on the right hand of this Altar, both by the hand of Lodovico.
The Church of the Nunns of S. Christina. The great Altar-piece of this Church, is by the same Lodovico.
The Church of the Nunns Convertite. Here is an admirable Piece on the right hand of the great Altar, rarely done by Lodovico.
The Church of the Mendicanti. Here they preserve a Picture of S. Matthew as 40 he was called by Christ to the Apostleship, by the hand of Hannibal Carache.
After this is the great Altar-piece, and a sin|gular good work of Noble Guido Reno.
The Church of S. Bartholomew in Piazza Ravegnana. Here is a Picture of S. Charles, by Lodovico Carache. And another of the Annunciation, by the hand of Albano.
S. Martin, being the Church of the Fathers Carmelites. On the left side of the great Chapell you may observe the Picture of S. Girolamo, by the hand of Albano.
The Parochial Church of S. Tomaso, in the great street. In this Church you see a Christ aloft, and on the Ground below is S. Andrew, and S. Francis, by the hand of Guido Reno.
The Church of the Fathers Capuchines. In this you see a Divine Picture with Christ 41 upon the Cross, with the B. Virgin, S. John, and a Magdalen, all embracing the Cross, a singular work of Guido Reno.
The Church of the Nunns of S. Agnes. The great Altar piece is the work of Domi|nichino.
The Church of S. Sebastian behind the Gabella. In This Church you find a Piece done by Albano.
S. Columbano. Here is to be seen a Picture of S. Peter, in Fresco, by the hand of Albano.
Madonna di G[...]iera, being the Church of the Fathers of the Order of S. Philippo Neri. Here are to be admired several beautiful works of Albano.
42 The Church of Madonna di Reggio. Over against our most holy Lady, there is seen a Picture, done by Guercin da Cento.
S. Antonio of the College of Mont-Alto. Here is a Picture on the right hand of the great Chapel, done by Guercin da Cento.
The Piece at the great Altar is the work of Lodovico Carache.
The Houses of Particular Persons.
The House of the Favi. IN this House is seen divers Freezes with the History of Aeneas out of Virgil, by the a|bove-named Lodovico.
There are also divers works of Albano.
43 The House of the Magnani, near to S. Giacomo Maggiore. Here is to be seen a large Freeze, the which represents the Acts of Romulus and Remus, the Frames which contain them are painted with diversity of Garlands and wreaths of Flowers in Chiaro Scuro; the work is of Excellent Carache.
And in a Room below there is a Chimney|piece of an Apollo, in Fresco, with other Figures, by Lodovico Carache.
The House of S. Pieri, in the great Street. In this House we see divers works of Au|gustino, and Lodovico Carache, and of Guercino, all in Fresco.
Upon the Front of the publick Palace of the Piazza. Here are three beautiful Figures of naked Women, by the hand of Guido Reno, in Fre|sco.
44 Underneath that Portico which is over against S. Maria Maggiore. Here you see a History which represents when Pilat washed his hands at the presence of Christ, by Lodovico Carache, in Fresco.
45 The State or Territory OF VENICE.
The City of Venice.
The Palace of S. Mark. AS you walk above to the College Cham|ber, you see four Squares in the four cor|ners.
In one of these is represented Vulcan and Cy|clops as they are working at the Anvil.
In another is Mercury with the three Graces.
In the third is Pallas compelling Mars to keep the Peace, with the Picture of Plenty.
In the fourth is Ariana Crowned by Venus, with a Crown of Stars. As also a Bacchus with other Figures.
46 Upon the Roof is a Square of S. Luke the Evangelist, and a [Note: Represented by a Crowned Virgin holding a Scepter in one hand, and a pair of Scales in the other. ]
There are likewise divers little Histories in Chiaro Scuro, with little Boys, painted by the hand of Tintoret, very fair works.
Let us enter another Chamber, and we shall find on our right hand, a great Square of Titian, which represents the Picture of Faith upon the Clouds, with three little Ange's, and below is S. Mark, and an armed Doge kneeling.
All the Roof is to be reckoned amongst the master-pieces of Tintoret.
After this Chamber you go into that of the College, and in the Anti-Chamber you see upon the Roof a most beautiful Square of Paulo Vero|nese, in some compartements it is Azured in Chiaro Scuro; where are other Figures of the same Author.
Then follows the Royal Chamber of the Col|lege, where you will admire upon the Roof the [Note: Represented by flinging Thunderbolts from Heaven. ] Thundering of Jupiter, by the most noble hand of Paulo Veronese.
The Square which is in Front, is of the same Paulo, and all the other about are of Tinto|ret.
We go out of the College and enter into the Chamber of the Pregadi, where will be admired the great Square which is above the Tribunall, 47 with the Dead Redeemer upheld by Angels, with many Saints, and other Figures And two Fi|gures in Chiaro Scuro, about the entrance at the great Door.
On the left hand is found a Figure in Chiaro Scuro, which represents Peace.
And there is near to that a Square of the Blessed Virgin in the Sky. S. Mark, S. Peter, and S. Lewis, and a Doge kneeling.
And that great Square on the middle of the Roof with a
After this we go into the Chapell behind the College-Chamber, and before your entrance you see over the Door, Christ risen from the dead, by the aforesaid Tintoret.
And within this Chapell you see a Christ in Emaus at Table with the two Disciples; this is the work of great Titian.
Let us enter into the Chambers of the Coun|cil of Ten, and we shall see in the first of them, on the middle of the Roof, a great Oval of na|ked Figures; some of the fairest works, done by Paulo Veronese.
Upon the same Roof you see several Vani (or Compartments) in one of which you see a Juno pouring from Heaven great quantities of Jew|els and Crowns, and below stands a Venetia, in a posture receiving those gifts.
In another Square is to be admired a beauti|ful Juno, holding her hands on her breast, toge|ther with an old Man holding his right arm un|der his chin, both which are the works of Paulo.
48 There are also four Figures around the middle Ovall, in Chiaro Scuro, three of these are done by Paulo.
After this first great Chamber, you enter into a lesser, where in the middle compartment is a most beautiful Square, with six Histories, every one painted in Chiaro Scuro, by Paulo Veronese. Rare things.
In the uppermost Chamber of the said Coun|cil you see upon the Roof, several fair works, by Paulo.
Afterwards you go into another Chamber, the Roof of which is all painted by Tinto|ret.
And in this same Chamber, over the Tribunal is a Madonna with Christ, and an Angel, by the hand of Raphael.
In this Chamber over a Door, you see a Ma|donna with the Child, S. Magdalen, S. John Bap|tist, S. Catherine, and another Figure kneeling, the work of old Palma.
The Chamber of the Grand Council. Here every one is amazed to see the great Square which represents Paradise; a large Square, and by the hand of Tintoret.
Over against this great work, on the other side of the Chamber, is an History of the Ve|netians warring against the Genoese, by Paulo Ve|ronese.
The Roof is divided into three Orders.
In the Order of S. Giorgio Maggiore, the first 49 Square towards the Throne is the work of Paulo Veronese, the third and the fourth are by Tin|toret.
In the second Order, on the right side of the Throne, are in like manner works of Paulo, and Tintoret.
In the third Order there is a large Square, a mighty work of furious Tintoret.
The great ovall towards the Throne, is a noble work of Paulo Veronese.
That Chamber called the Sala del Scrutinio near to that of the Grand Council. In this Chamber is to be seen a great Square of a Battle, by Tintoret. It is the first Picture on the right hand of the Tribunall, near unto the Door, as you go to the Chamber of the Grand Council.
The Magistrato delle Biade. All the Roof here is painted by Paulo Vero|nése.
In this Magistracy there are Three Chambers, in one of which you see a Square of the Resur|rection of Christ, by Tintoret.
50 The little Church of S. Nicholas in the Palace of S. Mark. In this little Church there are the Four E|vangelists, on each side the Altar two. And at a distance in a Half-moon is the Madonna with the Child Jesus, S. Nicholas, and a Doge, the works of Titian.
Over the Door there is another Half-moon, with a S. Mark sitting upon a Lion; rarely well done by Titian.
Over a Door of the Stair-case, by which the Doge goes into the College, you may observe a S. Christopher with the Child Jesus on his shoul|ders, a fair work of Titian.
Here you may observe upon the Roof, a Lady with a little Boy in her hand; by Titian.
Let us enter the Library, and on the left hand we shall see seven Philosophers; the two first, as also the fourth, the fifth, and the sixth are done by Tintoret. The seventh with a Globe in his hand, is by Sciavone.
On that side towards S. Mark's Steeple, there are four other Philosophers, by Tintoret.
On that side towards the Piazza, there are seven Philosophers. The second is by Sciavone, and the third laying his hand upon his breast, is by Paulo Veronese.
Afterwards upon the Roof there are three Rounds by Paulo Veronese, and other three by Sciavone.
[Figure:
TITIANO Nat Ano 1480
[Figure: portrait of Titian] ] 51 51 After these, in a Chamber called the Procu|ratie, there are great quantities of [Note: Or Pictures by the life. ] Ritrati, by Tintoret.
The Magistrato delle Legne. Upon the Roof you see a Square by Paulo Veronese.
And over the Tribunal you see five Retratti of Senators, by Tintoret.
The Church of S. Giminiano Preti. That Picture on your left hand as you enter this Church at the great Door, with a S. Ca|therine, and the Angel which Annunciates her Martyrdome, is by Tintoret.
The Portalls of the Organ are by Paulo Ve|ronese. On the outside of which are two holy Bishops, and within is a S. John Baptist, and S. Menna Cavaliere.
S. Gallo Abbazia. There is a Square of our Saviour in the mid|dle, and two Saints, by the hand of Tintoret.
52 The Church of S. Moise Preti. In the Chapell of the Most Holy, there is on the right hand, a Christ washing the Feet of the Apostles, by Tintoret.
In the Chapell on the left hand near the Sa|cristie, the Piece at the Altar is a Madonna with her Son; by the hand of Tintoret.
The Church of Santa Maria Gi|benigo. Here you see a Picture of our Saviour in the Sky, accompanied with Angels, and below is a S. Justina, and a S. Francisco di Paula; by Tin|toret.
There is afterwards the Organ painted by the same Tintoret.
On the outside of the Portall you see the Con|version of S. Paul; and within there are the four Evangelists; and under the Roof, going out of the great Door, there is a Madonna with her Son; by the same Author.
And upon a front of a House near to the house of the Pisani, and the Palace of the Flan|gini, in S. Maria Gibenigo, there are painted by the hand of Giorgone, many Freezes in Chiaro Scuro, in Yellow, Red, and Green, with rare fancies of Boys, in the middle of which are four Half-figures, viz. A Bacchus, a Venus, a 53 Mars, and a Mercury, coloured after the [Note: Which was not to paint in above two or three colours. ] usual manner of the Author.
S. Mauritio. Here is a Palace of the Family of the Soranfa all painted by Paulo Veronese, with four Histo|ries of the Romans, adorned with many Boys with Garlands, all in Chiaro Scuro, and below are two Figures finished in Bronzo.
The Church of S. Samuel. Here you will admire a great Picture of our Lord, the Blessed Virgin, and a St. John Bap|tist, by the hand of Tintoret.
The first Cloyster of the Convent of S. Stephano. Augustin Friers. In this Cloyster there are twelve Histories which represent part of the Old, and part of the New Testament: all singular work of Por|denon.
The first is, Christ discoursing with the Sama|ritan Woman.
The second is, The Judgement of Solomon, concerning the dead Child.
The third is, The Adultress brought before our Saviour.
54 The fourth is, David cutting off Goliah's head.
The fifth is, Our Saviour put into the Tomb.
The sixth is, The Sacrifice of Abraham.
The seventh is, S. Paul Converted at the voice of Christ.
The eighth is, Noah being Drunk, is found naked by his Sons.
The ninth is, The Martyrdom of S. Ste|phen.
The tenth is, The Murthering of Abel.
The eleventh is, Our Saviour as he appeared to Magdalen after his Resurrection.
The twelfth is, Adam and Eve scourged by the Angel out of the Terrestial Paradise.
Above the aforesaid Histories there is the An|gel Annunciating Mary; and on every side there are divers Saints, with their corresponding signi|fications.
The Church of S. Benedette Preti. The Portals of the Organ are painted by Tintoret, on the outside of them you may see Christ at the Well with the Samaritan Woman; and within is the Annunciation.
55 The School of S. Girolamo, near to the Church of S. Fantino. Look down upon a Bench, and you will see a Square of Tintoret's, with the Miracle of S. Girolamo.
You also see four Squares of Paulo Veronese. One is the coming of the Wise men. Another is the Disputation with the Doctors. The third is the Assumption of the B. Virgin. And a fourth follows.
There is above, a most beautiful Picture of the B. Virgin, and S. Girolamo, by the hand of Tintoret.
The Church of S. Luke Preti. The high Altar-piece represents the B. Virgin in the Sky with our Saviour, and Angels, and be|low on the Ground S. Luke sitting upon the Bull; they are precious works of Paulo Veronese.
The Church of S. Salvatore. There the High Altar-piece, of the Trans|figuration of Christ, by the hand of great Titian, is a singular work.
And in the Chapell on the right hand of the great Altar, you see Christ in Emaus, with the two Disciples, by old Palma.
56 The Picture of the Annunciation by Titian, a most fair work.
Fontico de Todeschi. On the Front over the Canalle there are ma|ny Figures painted by Giorgone.
That Front towards the Land is by Titian. Stately Pieces.
Afterwards in the German Merchants Dining|room there are many beautiful Histories, by Paulo Veronese.
There is also a little work of Tintoret: where you see a Cynthia in the Sky, followed by the Hours.
The Church of S. Guliano Preti. In this Church you see a Supper of Christ with the Apostles, by Paulo Veronese.
As also a Dead Christ in the Sky upheld by Angels, and below on the Ground is S. Mark, S. James, and S. Girolamo, the work of the above|said Paulo.
The Church of S. Paul. Entring at the great Door, that Square which is in the corner of the Church, with the Supper of our Saviour with his Disciples, is a singular good work of Tintoret.
In the field, or place before S. Pauls, you 57 plainly see upon the Front of the House of So|ranzo several Figures of Giorgone, most beauti|ful things.
In this same Parish of S. Paul you see the Pa|lace of the Zane, all painted by Andrea Schia|vone, with many Fables and Histories, the which look very gloriously over the Grand Canalle.
The Church of S. Apollinare. Here you see the Picture with the five Coronati, by Schiavone.
The Church of S. Silvestre. As you enter at the great Door, you see on your left hand the famous Visit of the Wise men, by Paulo Veronese.
You also plainly see a Square with our Savi|our in the Garden, by Tintoret.
There is another rare Picture of S. John Bap|tizing Christ, by Tintoret.
The Church of S. John di Rialto. The great Altar-piece is the work of great Titian, signifying this same Saint giving Almes to the Poor.
And in the Chapell on the left hand of the said Altar, is a work of Pordenon, with the Saints 58 Catherine, Sebastian, and S. Rocco, with a little Angel.
The Cuppola is all painted by the same Por|denon, in Fresco, and in the Angles of the Cup|pola there are the Four Evangelists, by the same hand.
Behind the great Altar, on the outside of the Church, upon the Wall, you see this Saint giving Almes to the Poor; Rarely well done by Por|denon.
The Church of S. Augustino Preti.
Here is placed a Square over a side door of the Church, of our Lord shewn unto the People by Pilate; by
The Church of S. Stin Preti. That Picture with the Assumption of the Bles|sed Mary, is the hand of Tintoret.
The School of S. John the Evangelist. The Roof of the Albergo is to be admired; by the hand of great Titian.
In the middle part you see the holy Evan|gelist contemplating upon Heaven, with other little Angels, and in four compartiments there are the four Symbols of the Evangelists, with se|veral little Angels heads in divers other com|partiments.
59 The Church called the Frari de padri Conventuali. That Picture of the Conception of the B. Virgin, is a marvellous fair work of Titian.
In the great Chapell there is the great and fa|mous Picture of Titian, where is represented Mary ascending into Heaven with the Eternal Father above, and below are the Apostles in ad|miration.
The School of S. Francisco purè à Frari. The Roof is all painted by Pordenon, where are divers Saints; singular works.
The Church of S. Rocco. Entring this Church, on the left hand, there is a great Square, with S. Martin on Horseback, dividing his Cloak, with many other Figures; the work of Pordenon.
An the other side of the Church, right over against this, there is another great Square re|presenting Christ curing one sick of the Palsie; a work worthy of Tintoret.
Afterwards is the great Chapell, all painted by Tintoret, excepting the Cuppola, and the 60 four Evangelists, which are of Pordenon; both one and the other are marvellous works.
In a Chapell on the left hand above the Al|tar, there is a Square with our Saviour carrying the Cross, by the hand of Titian.
The Organ is painted both within and without by Tintoret.
The School of S. Rocco. Now here it is that I know not where to begin, because of the quantity of Squares, where are seen infinite works of Tintoret.
In the first Ground Room, there are six great Squares.
The first on the left hand, there is an Angel which Annunciates Mary.
The second is the Visitation of the Three wise men.
The third is Mary going into Egypt.
The fourth is the Slaughter of the Inno|cents.
In the fifth is the Conception of our Lord.
In the sixth is Mary ascending into Hea|ven.
Over the first Stairs, you see an Annunciation, by Titian.
There is another in front of this Annunciation, where there is a Visitation of Mary, with S. Eli|zabeth, by Tintoret.
Then above that, the first Square is the Nati|vity of our Lord.
And after, is S. John Baptizing Christ.
61 After that is the Resurrection of Christ.
Behind that, is the Supper with the Apostles.
And after, is the Altar-piece with S. Rocco in the Sky, with many Figures.
Then follows on the other side, Christ multi|plying the Loaves and the Fishes.
After that, is the Messias raising Lazarus from the Dead.
In another, is Christ Ascending into Heaven, with the Apostles below.
Then follows the Miracle done at the Pool in the Sheep-market in Jerusalem.
In a corner behind the door of the Albergo, there is a Devil speaking to Christ, that he would convert the Stones into Bread.
In the head end of the Hall there is between the Windows S. Rocco, and S. Sebastian.
Let us turn our eyes towards the Roof, and we shall see Adam and Eve, as they stand eating the Apple.
Afterwards, is the Pillar of fire which guided the Hebrews through the Desert.
Jacobs Dream when he saw the Angels Ascen|ding, and descending from Heaven.
Jonas cast ashore, out of the Whales bel|ly.
Elias flying from the wrath of Jezebel.
In the middle Square there is the Rod of Ser|pents.
The Sacrifice of Abraham.
The Manna in the Desert.
The Hebrews eating the Paschal Lamb, and many other Histories of the Old Testament.
62 There is afterwards in the Albergo, Christ be|fore Pilate.
Christ, with the Reed in his hand.
Christ, going to Mount Calvary.
And again, that famous Crucifixion, one of the fairest works that ever was done, by [Note: So called from his bold manner of painting. ] furious Tin|toret.
On the Roof you see St. Rocco in the Sky, with all the other compartiments.
All the above named works in this School, are by Tintoret.
The Church of S. Nichola de Frari. The high Altar-piece with the B. Virgin in the Sky, and many Saints below, viz. S. Nicho|las, S. Katherine, S. Francis, S. Anthony of Pa|duae, and S. Sebastian, is a most singular work of divine Titian.
On the right hand of the said Altar, you see a S. John Baptizing Christ, the work of Paulo Veronese.
We also see two Prophets and two Sibyls in Chiaro Scuro, by the same Paulo.
There is a Square with Christ upon the Cross, by Paulo.
The Roof likewise is all painted by the afore|said Paulo: and they are stately works, parti|cularly that of the Adoration of the Wise men, which is in the middle.
63 Quartier de Castello.
The Nuns Church of S. Joseph. ON the Piece of the first Altar on your right hand (entring by the great door) there is S. Michael the Archangel, and a Senator, by the hand of Tintoret.
On the same side, at the third Altar, you see the Transfiguration of our Lord on Mount Tabor, painted by Paulo Veronese.
The great Altar-piece represents the Nativi|ty of our Saviour, by Paulo, a most admirable thing.
The Nuns Church of S. Daniel. As you enter this Church at the great Door, the first Picture is a S. Katherine disputing with the Doctors, by Tintoret.
Then follows the Piece at the great Altar, which demonstrates Daniel in the Lions denn, the work of Pietro da Cortona.
64
The Church of S. John in Bragora.
Entring this Church at the great Door, there is the Supper of our Lord with the Apostles; by
The Church of S. Severo Preti. Where you see a Square with the Crucifixion of our Lord, joining to the Chapell on the right hand of the great Altar, by the hand of Tin|toret.
The Church of S. Maria Formosa Preti. The great Altar-piece represents the Assum|ption of the Blessed Virgin, the work of Tinto|ret.
On the left hand beside the great Altar, and near to the Door, there is a little Chapell, where you see a Picture divided into five parts, a mar|vellous work of old Palma.
The Church of S. Leone called S. Lio Preti. The first Picture as you enter at the great Door, on your left hand, with S. James the Apostle, is by the hand of Titian.
65
The Church of Santa Maria Preti.
Entring at the great Door, you see on your left hand a little Picture with S. Daniel in the Lions denn, with an Angel, a Prophet, and a S. Andrew, by the hand of
The Nunns Church of Celestia.
In the Chapell on the right hand of the great Altar· there is an admirable Picture of two ho|ly Bishops, and S. Dominico, the work of
The Church of S. Francisco della Vigne, Padre Zoccolanti. Entring the Church at the great Door, in the fourth Chapell on your right hand, there is a Picture with the Resurrection of Christ, by Paulo Veronese.
On the other side of the said Church, in the fifth Chapel there is a Picture, by Paulo, with a Madonna and her Son, S. John, S. Joseph, S. Ka|therine, and S. Anthony the Abbot.
Let us enter into the Sacristie of the said Church, and the first Altar as you enter on your right hand, is by Paulo.
66 The Church of S. John è Paulo, Padre Dominicani. At your entrance at the great Door on your left hand there is a large Square of S. Peter Martyr, by divine Titian.
After followes, underneath the foot of the Crucifix, in the middle of the Church, a little Oblong, containing three Histories, viz.
Cain murthering his Brother Abel.
The Serpent exalted by Moses.
The third is Abraham offering Isaac.
The Chapell of Rosario, in the above said Church. On that Front which is over against the Al|tar of our Lady, there is to be seen a large Square in the middle between two Windows, which demonstrates the Crucifixion of our Lord, and on the Roof you see an Oval, on each side of the Oval, is an Oblong, by the hand of Tin|toret.
The School of S. Mark. Here are four great Squares, they may truly be called four wonders in painting; but in par|ticular that which is at the head of the School, 67 with S. Mark flying through the Sky; all the four represent the Miracles of the abovesaid Saint, the work of furious Tintoret.
The Albergo of the said School. As you enter, the first Square on your left hand is by Giorgone.
Then follows a second, which represents old Barcarole, as he presents the Ring given by S. Mark to the Screne Prince. A singular work of
The Church of the Hospitall of the Mendicanti. On your left hand as you enter the great Door, at the second Altar there is a Picture of S. Elena worshipping the found Cross, with other Figures, the work of Guercin da Cento.
68 Sestier di Canall Reggio.
The Church of S. Maria nova Preti. ENtring this Church by the great Door, the first Picture on the left hand with S. Girolamo in the Wilderness, is the work of Ti|tian.
The Church of S. Apostoli Preti. The Square on the right hand of the great Altar, where it rains Manna in the Desert, is by Paulo Veronese.
The Church of the Fathers Jesuites. As you enter at the great Door, at the se|cond Altar on the right hand is a Piece of the Martyrdome of S. Lorens; a rare thing of Ti|tian.
At the farther Altar is a Christopher, by old Palma.
Afterwards is the great Altar-piece, with the Assumption of the Madonna, so delicate a piece, 69 that I doubt not to say, it is absolutely the most superb work that ever Tintoret painted.
And on the right hand of the said Altar, there is a Square of S. Mary visited by S. Eli|zabeth, the work of Andrea Sciavone.
And on the other side of the Altar, there is the Crucifixion of our Lord, painted in the wonted manner of Tintoret.
In a Chapell on the right hand of the great Altar, there is a most beautifull Picture of the Naetivity of our Lord, by Paulo Veronese.
The Nunns Church of S. Catherine. As you enter this Church by the great Door, the first Altar on your right hand does demon|strate to you the Angel Raphael with Tobias: some say this piece was done by a Scholar of Titian's, others say by Titian's own hand, but most say 'tis the Masters hand, and so I am apt to believe.
Afterwards at the high Altar, you see a Piece of the Espousall of this Saint with the Child Jesus, and it is a really divine work of the for ever famous Paulo Veronese.
Around this Altar there are six Squares con|taining the Life of S. Katherine, done by Tinto|ret when he was a young man.
70 The Church of Santa Sophia Preti. Over the great Door, there is a little Piece of a Supper of our Saviour with the Apostles, by Paulo Veronese.
The Church of S. Felice Preti. Entring this Church at the great Door, you see a Piece at the second Altar on the left hand, by Tintoret.
And on the right side of the great Altar there are two Squares one above another; one is our Lord in the Garden. The other, The Supper with the Apostles, both by Tintoret.
Going a little below the aforesaid Altar, there is plainly to be seen upon the first Altar on the left hand an armed Saint, with a [Note: Or face after the life. ] Ritratto.
The Church of the Madonna del Orto Frati. As you enter at the great Door, you see on your left hand, the first Altar-piece, consisting of five Saints, viz. S. Lorenz, S. Gregory, S. Dominico, the Blessed Lorenzo, Justiniano, and S. Elena; a rare work of old Palma.
71 Then follows the fourth Chapell, with a most beautiful Picture, where you find S. Agnese, and many other Saints, with Angels in the Sky, by Tintoret.
A little forward at the sixth Altar, there is a Piece of the B. Lorenzo, Giustiniano, S. John Baptist, S. Francis, and others, a work greatly worthy of the praise of Pordenon.
On each side of the high Altar there is a ve|ry large Square.
That on the right hand represents the Hebrews worshipping the Golden Calf.
And that on the left hand is the Universal Judgement.
Above the Altar there are four Figures in Chi|aro Scuro.
Then are the Doors of the Organ painted on the outside with the Purification of the Blessed Vir|gin. And within on the right hand is S. Peter admiring the Cross in the Sky. On the other hand is the Beheading of S. Christopher, all these are the works of great Tintoret, and infinitely admirable.
The School of Merchants, near to Ma|donna del Orto. In a low Room there is a Picture with S. Christopher and Mary in the Sky, with Angels round about them, by Tintoret.
Above upon the Cieling, there is another Pi|cture of the Nativity of S. Mary, by Tintoret.
72 Afterwards is seen an Annunciation, with many pieces of Architecture, on each side is a Figure in Chiaro Scuro, rare things, and worthy of Paulo Veronese.
The Church of S. Marcelliano Preti. The first Picture on your left hand as you enter at the great Door, with an Angel and To|bias, as also an holy Hermit, and a Dog, is the work of famous Titian.
The great Altar-piece with three Saints, viz. S. Marcelliano in the middle between S. Peter and S. Paul, is by Tintoret.
The Church of the Fathers Serviti. You see here the Organ, by the hand of Tin|toret, on the inside is the Annunciation, on the outside is an holy Bishop and a Prophet.
Below these is Cain Murthering his Brother Abel, and the Father Eternal speaking unto Cain.
The Church of Magdalena Preti. On the left hand of the great Altar, there is a S. Mary Magdalen accompanied with many other Figures, by Tintoret.
Afterwards upon the outside of the Doors of the Organ, there is a Christ as he appears to S. 73 Mary Magdalen after the Resurrection, and with|in is an Annunciation.
On the top of the said Organ you see the Coming of the Wise men, in small, by Tintoret.
The Church of S. Emagora è Fortunato, called S. Marcuola Preti. Entring at the great Door, on the right hand under a little window you see a square with the Child Jesus, and on each side is S. Andrew and S. Katherine, by Titian.
Then follows the second Altar with the Pi|cture of S. Elena, by Tintoret.
And on the left hand of the great Altar is a Supper, by Tintoret.
The Church of S. Giobbe Frati Zocco|lanti.
As you enter at the great Door, the Piece of the fourth Altar on your right hand, does de|monstrate three Saints and an Angel, viz. S. An|drew, S. Peter, and S. Nicholas, it is a most beauti|ful work of
The Church of S. Jeremia Preti. All the Organ, excepting the little Doors, is painted in Chiaro Scuro, together with the four 74 corners; within there are the four Evangelists, a work of great esteem, by the hand of Andrea Sciavone.
The Nuns Church of S. Girolamo. The first Picture on your left hand as you enter the great Door, is the work of Tintoret.
Quartier della Croce.
The Nuns Church of the Cross Franciscans. LEt us enter at the great Door, and we shall find the first Altar on the right hand, with a dead Christ and an Angel which supports him, as also a S Katherine, and a Pope; by the hand of Tintoret.
75
The Nuns Church of S. Andrew.
That Altar-piece on the right hand of the great Altar with S. Augustine clothed in a white Garment, likewise two Boys, one of them hold|ing his Pastoral Staff, the other his Mytre, is one of the best works of
At the other Altar on the left hand of the great Altar there is S. Girolamo in the Hermi|tage, by the hand of Paulo Veronese.
The Church of S. Simeon Grande Preti. As you enter at the great Door on the right hand, over a Bench, there is a Supper of our Lord with the Apostles, by Tintoret.
The Church of S. Giacomo dall Ovio Preti. The Picture of the Chapel of S. Lorens, is by Paulo Veronese; in it you find this Saint, with S. Girolamo, and S. Nicholas, and a little Boy in the Sky.
Below the said Picture there is an oblong Picture with the Martyrdom of the aforesaid Saint, a most graceful work of Paulo.
And near to a side Door of the said Church, on the left hand of the great Altar, you see upon the Roof an Ovall with Faith, Hope, and Cha|rity, 76 and many Angels. And the four Round with four Doctors, are rarely done after the usu|all manner of Paulo Veronese.
The Church of S. Maria, Mater Domini Preti. Being entred the great Door, and past the se|cond Altar on the left hand, you see a beautiful small Piece of a Supper, by old Palma.
And over a side Door of the Church there is a most famous Square of the Invention of the Cross, by the hand of Tintoret.
The Church of S. Cassiano, called S. Cassiano Preti. Let us enter at the great Door, and we shall find on the right hand of the first Altar, a Pi|cture with the Saints, Girolamo, S. Mark, S. Pe|ter, and S. Paul, a marvellous work, by the hand of old Palma.
The great Chapell is all by Tintoret.
One Picture repres[...]nts the Redeemer risen from the dead, and S. Cassiano preaching unto many Nations.
On the right hand is Christ Crucified, and on the left is our Lord when he delivers the holy Fathers out of Hell, beautiful pieces.
There are also three little Histories, upon 77 the top of the Organ, concerning the life of Cassiano, by Tintoret.
Quartier di Dorso Durro.
The Church of S. Pantaleon Preti. ON the left hand of the Organ there is a large Square with S. Bernard curing ma|ny sick of the Plague; a rare work of Paulo Veronese.
Another Picture of S. Bernard, is by Paulo Ve|ronese.
The great Altar-piece with S. Pantaleon curing a Sick man, and a Priest, by Paulo Veronese.
The Church of the Carmine Frati. On the top of the Organ you see two oblong Pieces, in one is the Annunciation, the other is the Nativity of Christ, by the hand of Andrea Schiavone.
In like manner upon the top of the little Quire, right against the aforesaid Organ, you see two other oblong pieces, one is the coming 78 of the Magi; the other is the Circumcision of our Lord, by the hand of the aforesaid Schia|vone.
There is another Picture of the Circumcision of our Lord, by the hand of Tintoret.
The Nuns Church of S. Maria Maggiore. The great Altar-piece represents the Assum|ption of the B. Virgin, with the Apostles, by the hand of Paulo Veronese: a singular thing.
Afterwards on the sides of the aforesaid Al|tar there are three great Squares.
One represents when the Priest scourges Joa|chin out of the Temple for having no offspring.
In another is the Espousal of the B. Virgin with Joseph,
In the third is the Visitation of the three Ma|gi; all three by the hand of bold Tintoret.
In a Chapell on the left hand of the great Altar you see the Picture with the famous S. John Baptist, by Titian.
Entring this Church at the great Door, and being past the first Altar on the right hand, there is a Square which represents the Ark of Noah, by the hand of Giacomo Bassano: it contains all the several kinds of living Creatures and is rec|koned to be one of the finest Pictures in the world.
After this there are four Squares placed on four Pillars of the Church; they signifie the four Seasons of the Year, by the hand of the same Bassano.
79 There are also two Squares on the sides of that Door which opens to the Canalle.
One represents the Adultress before Christ.
In the other is the Centurion prostrated before the Redeemer.
And in a lesser Square upon a Pillar, there is Christ in the Garden upheld by an Angel, they are all three by Paulo Veronese.
In the Sacristie there is an Ecce Homo, by
The Nuns Church of Terrese. The Round which is in the middle of the Roof, with the Madonna in the Sky and Angels round about, with three Saints below, and the four compartements adjoyning the abovesaid Round, containing the four Evangelists; all this is a singular good work of Andrea Schiavone.
The Church of S. Nicholas Preti. Upon the Roof over the great Altar, there is a Round, where S. Nicholas is carried into Heaven by the Angels, with the Picture of Faith, and a multitude of Angels and Cherubins, by the hand of Paulo Veronese.
Entring this Church at the great Door, on the left hand over a side Door of the Church, upon the Roof there is a Round, and a lesser Round on each side of the great one. In the great one is the Eternal Father with many Angels. In 80 one of the lesser is the B. Virgin, in the other is the Angel Annunciating, with other four Rounds containing the four Evangelists.
The Church of S. Sebastian. Joining to the little Door which is not far from the great one, you see the Picture of S. Nicholas, a Bishop, and an Angel, the work of Titian.
At the farthest Altar on the same side you see a Picture with Christ upon the Cross, by Paulo Veronese.
On the other side of the Church there is a Picture of St. John Baptizing of Christ, by Paulo.
Then follows another Picture of Christ when he appeared to the two Disciples going into Emaus, by Andrea Schiavone.
The Walls of the Church are all painted in Fresco with Pillars, Statues, and other ornaments of Architecture, by Paulo Veronese.
All the great Chapell is by the same Paulo, the Cuppola and the Tribunal are painted in Fresco.
The great Altar-piece represents the B. Virgin with her Son, and Angels in the Sky; and below are the Saints Sebastian, S. Katherine, S. John Baptist, S. Francis, and S. Peter.
The great Square on the right hand of the great Altar represents S. Mark and S. Marcellin[...] going with S. Sebastian (who is in Armour) and comforting him to his Martydom.
81 In another Square on the left hand you see the above-named Saint bound to a Machine of wood, coming to be Martyred, and the false Priests per|swading him to worship their Idols, with many standers by: all the aforesaid works are the fairest that ever were done by the most noble hand of Paulo Veronese.
Afterwards are the Doors of the Organ, on the outside is painted the Circumcision of our Lord, and within is Christ curing one sick of the Palsie, works so fair that they stand in no need of commendation.
Upon the top of the Organ you may observe a little Square with the Nativity of Christ, one as well as the other are most graceful pieces of great Paulo.
Let us cast our eyes upon the Roof, which is all painted by the aforesaid Paulo.
The first Square demonstrates Queen Esther going into the presence of King Ahasuerus, ac|companied with many Waiting-maids.
In the middle Square is the King Ahasuerus frowning on Queen Esther.
In the third you see Mordecai conducted to Haman, by the order of the King.
As you goe into the Sacristie on the left hand over the Door of a little Chapell you may see a little Square with S. Girolamo in the Hermitage.
In the Sacristie, the middle partition of the Coronation of the B. Virgin, and the four other partitions of the four Evangelists, one as well as the other are of Paulo.
There is also another Square of the Chastising of the Serpents, by Tintoret.
82 Let us goe into the Quire, and right against the Door we shall see a Square, which represents S. Sebastian before the god Cletiano, confessing himself to be a Christian.
In front of this Square there is painted over the Door, the same Saint beaten with Clubs, a work in Fresco.
Above these Squares there are the four Evan|gelists, two on either side in Fresco, all these are of Paulo Veronese.
In the Refectory there is the great Feast of Christ in the House of the Pharisee's, 'tis enough, that it is of Paulo Veronese.
The Nuns Church of All-Saints. The great Altar-piece represents Paradise; and on a little Door of the Tabernacle of the said Altar there is a Christ rising again.
Afterwards are the Doors of the Organ, on the outside of which you see the most noble Vi|sitation of the Magi; and within are four Doctors of the Church, with Angels playing upon vari|ety of Instruments.
On the Roof is the Father Eternal, and round about the top of it are divers little Figures, and Histories in Chiaro Scuro, all of them by the most noble hand of Paulo Veronese.
83 The Church of S. Gervaso & Protaso, called S. Trovaso Preti. The Picture of the Chapell on the right hand of the great Altar, contains S. Anthony the Abbot tempted by Devils, with our Sa|viour in the Sky succouring the Abbot, the work of Tintoret.
Then follows the other Chapell, on the right hand of it you see the Supper of our Lord with the Apostles, and on the left our Saviour wa|shing the feet of the Apostles, both of them by Tintoret.
The Church of the Fathers Dominicans, formerly the Jesuites. Entring at the great Door, at the third Altar on your right hand you may observe a Picture of our Lord upon the Cross, and both the Maries, by the hand of Tintoret.
And upon the Doors of the Organ there is painted Pope Urban the fifth giving of habits to the Fathers Jesuites, by the hand of Ti|tian.
84 The Church of the Hospital of the Incurabili. In which is seen a Picture with S. Ursula accompanied with her Virgins, and an Holy Bishop, with an Angel in the Sky, the work of Tintoret.
And over a side Door of the Church you may observe a little Square of our Saviour car|rying the Cross, and an Executioner drawing him along, by the hand of Giorgone.
The Nuns Church of Spirito Santo. As you enter on your left hand there is a Round of the Image of the B. Virgin, and two little Angels holding a Crown, with S. Girolamo and S. Sebastian in the Clouds, and below is S. Evangelist and S. Augustine.
There is also a Picture of the Visitation of the Magi, both of them are by Tintoret.
The Nuns Church of the Humiltá. Entring the great Door, at the second Altar on your right hand you will admire a Picture o[...] S. Peter, and S. Paul, a most fair work of Gi[...]|como Bassano.
Upon the Arch of this Chapell you may ob|serve 85 a Square of Christ taken from the Cross, with the two Marys, a rare work of Tintoret.
At the High Altar on the upper part of the Tabernacle there is a Nativity of our Lord, by Giacomo Bassano.
A little lower upon the frontispiece is a Fa|ther Eternal, by Paulo Veronese.
And a little lower in the third piece there are two Angels, by Paulo.
On the Portall is the Redeemer with the Globe in his hand, and several Cherubins, by Paulo.
On each side of the abovesaid Portall there is two little Squares. In one there is S. John preaching in the Desert; in the other is the Centurion before Christ, both by Paulo.
Afterwards is the Roof done likewise by Paulo, with three great Histories, and many pieces in Chiaro Scuro.
The first Square over the Quire represents the B. Virgin Annunciated by the Angel.
And in an Ovall in the middle, there is Mary Ascending into Heaven, with the Apostles below.
Then follows the third, which is the Na|tivity of Christ; all these are marvellous good pieces.
The Church of the Salute. There is in this Church two Pictures by the hand of great Titian.
In one you will admire the Coming of the Holy Ghost upon the Apostles.
86 In the other is S. Mark sitting on high, and below are the Saints Sebastian, S. Rocco, S. Cos|mo, and S. Damiano.
Upon the Roof over the Quire you see eight Heads by Titian, in a round form.
Let us go into the Sacristie and cast our eyes upon the Roof, and we shall see three Squares by Titian.
In the first is David cutting off the Head of Goliab.
In the second is the Sacrifice of Abraham and Isaae.
In the third is Cain slaying his Brother Abel. All singular works of the Author.
And below is a great Square of the Marriage in Cana in Galilee, by furious Tintoret.
The Church of the Most holy Trinity, near to the Saluté. There are thirteen Squares of Tintores, viz.
The Eternall Father creating the World.
The Forming of Adam and Eve.
The Tempting of Adam.
Cane slaying Abel.
The four Evangelists, in four Squares.
Two Apostles, in two Squares.
The Annunciation in two Squres.
In the Sacristie there is a little Square of the Most Holy Trinity. All singular works of the same Author.
87 The School of Charity. Here is a very large Square of the Blessed Vir|gin ascending the Stairs of the Temple, with many other Figures, a divine work of great Titian.
88 The ISLANDS Adjacent to VENICE.
The Island of Murano.
The Church of S. Peter Martyr, Fathers Dominicans. ENtring this Church, on your left hand you see a Square near unto the Picture of Rosa|rio, where you find A Victory against the Turks, with the Blessed Virgin in the Sky, and other Saints, by the hand of Paulo Veronese.
89 The Nuns Church of the Madonna de gli Angeli. BElow the Organ there is an Ovall with four Angels singing; a most fair work of Paulo Veronese.
There is also a Square with S. Girolamo, by Paulo Veronese.
After that is the great Altar-piece, where you find the Annunciation, a superb work of Pordenon.
The Church of the Des Messe. In which are to be seen three Squares, by Tintoret.
In one is The coming of the Magi.
In another is the Presentation at the Temple.
The third is the Adultery.
The Nuns Church of S. James. Here are seen three Pictures by Paulo Vero|nese.
That of the great Altar represents divers Saints, with a most beautiful Glory of Angels.
The second on the right hand of the great Altar represents the Visitation of S. Eliz[...]beth.
That on the left hand demonstrates Christs resurrection.
90 The Organ is rarely painted, by Paulo Ve|ronese.
The Church of S. John. The great Altar-piece represents S. John Bap|tizing of Christ, the work of Tintoret.
Before we part from Murano let us go see the Palace of the Trevisano, and we shall see some of the beautifullest works that ever were painted by the singular pencil of Paulo Veronese.
The Island of Mazorbo.
The Nuns Church of S. Katherine. THe great Altar-piece is a singular work of Paulo Veronese.
91 The Island of Burano.
The Nuns Church of S. Mauro. THe great Altar-piece of this Church, is the work of Paulo Veronese.
The Island of Torcello.
The Nuns Church of S. Anthony. THere are such beautiful pieces in this Church, that they are worth coming a long journey to see, and they are of the most noble pencil of Paulo Veronese.
The great Altar-piece with the two Prophets on the Angels of the said Altar, are by the a|foresaid Author.
On the left side of the great Altar, and on the 92 sides of the Organ you see ten Squares, which represent the life of S. Christina, both inside and outside of the said Organ is adorned with precious Histories, by the hand of the same Paulo.
Over the Altar of Christ there are two Figures in Chiaro Scuro, by the same hand.
The Island of S. Elena.
The Church. IN the Church here you will admire that most superb piece at the great Altar, where is painted the coming of the Magi, by the hand of Palma.
93 The Island of S. Giorgio Maggiore.
The Church. ENtring the Church at the great Door, the first Picture on the right hand demonstrates the Nativity of Christ, by Giacomo Bassano.
Then follows a Picture of the Martyrs, by the hand of Tintoret.
After this is a Picture on the right side of the Church, where you find the Most holy Trinity crowning the Blessed Virgin, and below are se|veral Saints, by Tintoret.
There is in like manner on the left side of the Church, right against to that aforesaid, with the Martyrdom of S. Stephen by Tintoret.
Then follows on the same side, the Resur|rection of Christ, with the Pictures of divers Se|nators, by Tintoret.
Now follow the two great Squares which are on the sides of the great Altar, one of which represents the Supper of our Lord with the Apostles, in the other is Manna falling in the Desert, by the same Tintoret.
After this you go into the Chapell of the De|fonti, where you see a Picture of Christ taken from the Cross, by the aforesaid Author.
94 Afterwards in the Refectory is that most mar|vellous and large Square which represents the Marriage of Cana in Galilee; this, if I may so say, is a wonder of the World, and whoso|ever comes to Venice and departs without a sight of this Picture, may by said to have seen nothing, and it is done by the most excellent and noble hand of Paulo Veronese.
The Island of the Giudecha.
The Church of the Redentore. IN this Church you see two Pictures of Tin|toret.
One demonstrates the Ascension of our Lord with the Apostles.
The other is the Scourging of Christ at a Pil|lar.
Afterwards as you enter the Monastery, you see a Square over the Oratory with Christ sitting, with the Apostles kneeling, and other Saints, by the aforesaid Tintoret.
95 The Refectory of S. James, Fathers Serviti. The Roof of this is painted by Paulo Vero|nese divided into three Partitions.
One demonstrates the Annunciation.
That in the middle, the Assumption of the B. Virgin, with the Father Eternal in the Cry|stalline Heaven surrounded with Legions of An|gels.
The third is the Visitation of S. Elizabeth, and are works really beautiful.
The Nuns Church of S. Cosmo and S. Damiano. As you enter, you see on your left hand the B. Virgin in the Sky, and the two Saints, S. Ce|cilia, S. Theodoro, and a S. Marina.
In a Chapell on the right hand of the great Altar there is another Picture with Christ on the Cross, and the Maries, both one and the other are by Tintoret.
96 The City of Treviso.
The Domo.
HEre you see the Histories of the Nativity, and Resurrection of Christ, singular works of
There is another rare Picture of the Annun|ciation, by the hand of Titian.
The Church of S. Francis.
Here you may observe a Picture, by
The Church of S. Girolamo.
Where you admire another Picture, by the aforesaid
The Church of All-Saints. There are also divers works of the abovesaid Master.
As likewise one Piece of Giacomo Bassano.
97
The Church of S. Paul.
Here in like manner are singular works, and worthy of all admiration, by the same
The Church of S. Magdalen. The great Altar-piece represents Christ as he appeared to Mary Magdalen, the work of Paulo Veronese.
The Church of S. Augustine. Here is an admirable Picture of S. Giachino, S. Anne, S. James, and S. George, the work of Paulo Veronese.
In the Refertory of the Nunnery there is a a Square which demonstrates the Marriage of Cana in Galilee, by the hand of the aforesaid Paulo Veronese.
The Mountaine of Piety in the aforesaid City. Here they preserve a Christ with a little An|gel, a most singular work, by the hand of Gi|ergone.
98 The Villa of Zerman Trevisano.
The Domo. HEre you will find a most beautiful Picture of old Palma.
Pordenon.
The Castle of Friuli.
The Domo. HEre you see the Organ painted by its own Countrey-man, Pordenone.
You also see works in Fresco upon the Wall, by the same Author, as there is likewise in other places, all singular works.
99 The City of Udine.
The Domo. HEre yon will admire some beautiful Histories upon the ledge of the Organ by the hand of Pordenone.
The Church of S. Peter Martyr. In which you way observe a famous Picture of the Annunciation, by Pordenone.
The City of Belluno.
HEre are preserved two very fair Pieces, by
Compagnia del Croce. Here you will find two singular Squares, by Tintoret.
100 THE TERRITORY OF CONEGLIANO.
Conegliano.
The Church of the Reformati. HEre is a very fair Picture, by old Pal|ma.
101 The Villa of Marens.
In the same Territory. HEre you will see a faire Picture, by the hand of Titian.
The Villa of Fontanelle. HEre is an admirable Picture, by the hand of Pordenone.
The Castle of S. Salvatore.
The Jurisdiction of the Conti Colalto. HEre is a Church all painted by the hand of Pordenone.
102 And all the Roofs of the said Conti are painted by Andrea Schiavone.
Below the said Castle.
The Church of S. John. THere are two Pictures, by Pordenone. One of the Virgin fleeing into Egypt. The other of divers Saints. And under them is the Pi|cture of Piety.
Further below the said Castle.
The Villa of Sasigano. HEre is preserved a Picture, by the hand of Pordenone.
103 Another Castle of the Colalti. IN this Castle you see a great Square, by Por|denone.
The City of Ceneda.
The Domo. THere is a Picture, by Titian, of the B. Virgin, S. Rocco, and S. Sebastian.
Upon the Organ of this Church is represen|ted the life of San. Titian, the work of
In the Piazza. In this same there is a House side painted by Pordenone.
104 Villa di Castello below Ceneda.
The Church. HEre are three Niches at the great Altar, in the middle you will admire the B. Virgin, and a Saint on each side, by the hand of Titian, a singular work.
The Castle of Saravall.
The Domo. THe great Altar-piece with the B. Virgin, and a Glory of Angels, and below are two Saints, with a Landskip, and within it you find a Ship, it is a most precious thing, but by an un|certain Author.
105 The Church of the Capuchines. Here they preserve a Square of a Madonna, a stupendious work of Guido Reno.
Villa di Mazer in Trevisano, near to Asolo. IN the said Villa there is a Palace all painted with divers operations of the most excel|lent hand of Paulo Veronese, singular works of the Author.
Asolo in Trevisano.
The Church of the Reformati. HEre you see a Square with the Conception of the Blessed Virgin, by Giacomo Bassano.
106 The Domo. In which you see an Assumption of the Blessed Virgin, with numbers of Angels, and two Saints, by Giacomo Bassano.
Castel Franco. HEre is an admirable Picture of the Blessed Virgin with her Son, the work of Giorgone.
There are likewise divers Palaces near ad|jacent, where you will find works of the same Giorgone, as also of Paulo Veronese.
The Castle of Bassano.
The high Church of the Castle. IN this Church you will admire the marvel|lous Nativity of the Child Jesus, a work to 107 be admired by every one, and one of the fairest that ever was painted, by Giacomo Bassano.
In the Town-house, as also in the Churches, and upon the Houses of particular persons, there are works of divers sorts, by the said Giacomo Bassano.
Being this was the Countrey of this fa|mous man, I look upon it as superfluous to no|minate place after place where paintings are, because of the great quantities of them, and very little of other Masters.
Cittadella.
The Parochial Church. THe great Altar-piece is by Giacomo Bassano, and on the sides of the Chapel there is our Lord upon Mount Tabor, the work of the same Giacomo.
108 The Street which leads from Venice to Padua, viz. upon the bank of the River Brenta. Upon this Road you see many superb Pala|ces, painted both within aud without, with va|rious operatious, viz. Histories, Freezes, Archi|tecture, Garlands of all sorts, stupendious works, by the most singular and excellent hand of Paulo Veronese.
The City of Padua.
The Church of S. Justina. THe great Altar-piece is a most singular work of noble Paulo Veronese, the which repre|sents the Martyrdome of this Saint, and is most excellently imbellished by the hand of Augustino Carache.
109 The School of the said Saint. In which you will admire the Saint, mar|vellously beautiful, 'tis enough that they are done by the incomparable pencil of great Ti|tian.
The Church of the Hermits. In the Sacristie of this Church they preserve a S. John Baptist preaching, by the hand of the most noble Guido Reno.
The Church of S. Maria in Vanzo. Here stands a Picture of the Dead Redeemer, the work of Giacomo Bassano.
Montagnana near to Este.
The Domo. HEre you will see the great Altar-piece, which represents the Transfiguration of 110 Christ upon Mount Tabor, a singular work of Paulo Veronese.
The City of Vicenza.
The Church of S. Rocco. THe great Altar-piece is a most fair work of Giacomo Bassano.
The Church of S. Leuterio. In like manner you see the great Altar-piece, by the same Bassano.
The Church of S. Croce. Where there is another Picture by the afore|said Giacomo.
Under the publick House of the Piazza.
There is an History of Noah with his Daugh|ters, by
111 The Refectory of Madonna di Monte, Frati. In this you see a great Square which repre|sents a Feast, in which is the Redeemer, a most fair work of the most excellent hand of Paulo Veronese.
All that are curious omit not the seeing of this piece.
The Church of the Fathers Teatini. Here you may observe in a Chapell a most fair piece, by old Palma.
The Church of S. Corona, Fathers Dominicans. The Altar-piece here with the three Magi, is by Paulo Veronese.
There are also in this same City several works upon the Walls in Fresco, by Pordenone.
112 The City of Verona.
The Domo. HEre you may observe a Picture of the As|sumption of the B. Virgin, the work of great Titian.
The Church of S. George. In this Church you see two Pictures, of which I may say nothing can exceed them, by the most noble pencil of Paulo Veronese.
The Church called La Vittoria. In the Sacristie of this Church you must ob|serve a Square of no great size, but extraordi|nary fine, by the aforesaid Paulo.
[Figure:
PAVLO: Veronese Nat. Ao 1490
[Figure: portrait of Paulo Veronese] ]
113 The City of Brescia.
The Church of S. Afra. HEre is kept a most beautifull Standard, by Paulo Veronese.
There is also a Square of the Transfiguration of our Lord, a singular work of great Tintoret.
The Church of S. Nazaro. Here are several fair Pictures by Titian.
Sitinalta in the Territory of Bergamasco.
The Parochial Church. IN this Church you see two singular Pictures, by old Palma, that Country-man.
114 The City of Cremona. HEre is a Picture of S. Sehastian and two Angels, by the hand of Giorgone.
The City of Genoua.
The Church of S. Francis. HEre is to be seen a Square with S. John, Bap|tizing Christ, by the hand of Tintoret.
115 The STATE OF FLORENCE.
The City of Florence.
S. Mark, Fathers Dominicans. HEre are three Pictures by the hand of Fra Bartolomeo.
The Church of S. Croce. Here is a Picture representing the Lady of Piety, a singular work of Civoli.
116 In the Church-yard of the Nuntiata. There are divers works in Fresco, by Andrea del Sarto.
In the Cloyster, over a Door, you see a fa|mous Piece, called the Madonna del Saccho, by the abovesaid Andrea.
The Confraternity of S. John Baptist. In the Cloyster upon the Wall there are the Histories of the life of this Saint, by the same Andrea.
The Gallery of the Great Duke. In which you see a Square with the History of the Fall of Phaëton, by the hand of Leonardo da Vinci.
There is drawn a Ritratto of Pope Leo the X. by the hand of great Raphael.
There is also a little Square of a Madonna, the work of the abovesaid Raphael.
Then follow divers Squares of Andrea del Sarto, particularly in the more private Cham|bers there are most beautiful works, not omit|ting a sight of that great Square of the Assumption of the B. Virgin, and the Apostles.
Over a Door of the said Chambers there is a [Figure:
PIETRO d': Cortona Nat Ao 1593
[Figure: portrait of Pietro d'Cortona] ] 117 very large Square which expresses a Dispute a|mongst several Saints; a singular work of the said Andrea. There are likewise two Squares of Naked Women, by great Titian.
Then follow several Pieces, of Giacomo Bassano.
You also see a Square with little Figures of the B. Virgin, with the Child Jesus in her arms, and a Saint on each side, the work of Corregio.
You see another Square of Naked Women, by Hannibal Carache.
The Palace of Pitti, being the habitation of the Great Duke. Where are seen four most stately Chambers, excellently painted with variety of Histories, by Pietro da Cortona.
118 The STATE OF PARMA.
The City of Parma.
The Church of the Nuntiatata. IN the Quire of the said Church you see a Picture with a Madonna and her Son, and four Saints by her side, by the hand of Parmeg|giano, his first manner of painting.
In the Sacristie of the said Covent, there is a Square of S. John Baptizing Christ, by Parmeggi|ano, his first manner.
119 Santa Cecilia. As you enter this Church, on your right hand there is a Picture with a Madonna on high with her Son, on each side a Saint, by the hand of Lanfranco, a rare work.
The Church of the Capuchines. Entring this Church, on your left hand you see a Square with the Blessed Felice holding the Child Jesus on his shoulders, with the B. Virgin in a posture of receiving them, and a Glory of Boys, the work of Guercin da Cento.
Right against this you see another great Pi|cture, with Christ on the Cross, by his side is a S. Katherine, and the Ritratto of a Capuchine, with many Angels lamenting, a most beautiful work of Guercin da Cento.
In a Chapell you see a S. Anthony of Padua, by Tadeo Zuccharo.
At the high Altar is a great Piece, the top whereof is half round, with a dead Christ in the lap of the B. Virgin half dead, upheld by Angels, with S. Francis pointing at our dead Lord, as also a S. Magdalen, and S. Chiara, with a Glory of Angels carrying the Cross, painted by the most excellent hand of Hannibal Carache.
On the side of the said Altar there is a S. Lewis King of France, and a S. Chiara, the work of the said Hannibal.
120 Within the Covent, over a Door there is a Madonna with the Child, and a little S. John, by the same Hannibal.
The Church of All Saints. At the High Altar there is a Square which represents our Saviour sitting and giving benedicti|on, with many Saints on his right hand, and a S. Stephen praying, with other Pictures of holy Vir|gins, by the hand of Lanfranco.
The Church of the Fathers Jesuites. Over a place of Confession you see a Square with our Saviour bound to the Pillar with two Angels lamenting, and many little Angels, by the hand of Tadeo Zucch[...]ro.
The great Altar-piece is a most singular work of Paulo Veronese.
On the two Pedestals of the said Altar there are two Heads, with the B. Virgin, and the An|gel, the work of Tadeo Zuccharo.
The Church of S. Sepulchre. As you enter at the great Door in the first Chapell on your left hand you will admire a Square, the top of it is half round; where is a Madonna and the Child Christ, and S. Joseph, a divine work, after the usual manner of great Correggio.
121 At the Madonna della Scala, over the Door of S. Michael. There is a Madonna with her Son in her arms, by the hand of the aforesaid Correggio.
The Church of the Fathers Serviti. There is a Square upon which is a Madonna with the Child in her lap, and many Angels, by the hand of Parmeggianino.
At the Battesimo. There is a Square with S. Ottavio, and a Ma|donna, the work of Lanfranco.
The Nuns Church of S. Paul. Entring at the great Door, at the second Chapell, there is a Square with the B. Virgin and her Son in her lap, with S. Cecilia, S. Mar|garet, and a little S. John shewing our Lord, a most fair work of Augustine Carache.
At the great Altar there is a little Square, upon which is Our Lord on the Judgement seat, and on the right hand of the Square is S. Paul at his feet, and S. Katherine kneeling, the work of divine Raphael.
122 In the said Covent there is a Chamber pain|ted in Fresco, with many Figures, by the hand of Correggio, a most fair work.
The Church of S. Anthony. As you enter at the great Door in a Chapell on your right hand is seen a Square with a Madonna, and her Son sitting reading, and on the right hand of this Square is a S. Girolamo kissing their feet. On the other side of it is a S. Mary Mag|dalen kissing our Saviours feet, a singular work of divine Corregio.
Then follows at the great Altar a Square with the Madonna and the Child Jesus, giving Benediction to the two Saints, S. Francis, and S. Chiara, by the hand of Guercin da Cento.
The Domo. In which you will admire the marvellous Cuppola, with the four Angles, one of the finest works in the world, by the most excellent hand of great Correggio.
The Church of Madonna della Steccata. Over the Cross-Isle of the Church there is a Madonna aloft, the rest of the Roof is likewise painted by Parmeggianino.
In another Isle of this Church, over against 123 the Image of the Blessed Virgin is seen a Square with the Adoration of the Magi, the work of Carravagio.
On the inside of the Organ you see a David and a Sibyll, with other Figures, by the hand of Parmeggianino: all of them singular works.
The Church of S. John, Fathers Benedictines. In this Church you see a Cuppola with its four Angles, and other marvellous works ac|cording to the usual manner of great Correggio.
On the Roof of the Quire are works copied from Correggio, by the hand of Baglioue, but re-toucht by Correggio himself.
In the two Cross-Isles there are two Chapels where you will see works of Carravagio in Fresco.
Coming out of the Church, at the second Chapell on your left hand, there are two Squraes. On one you will admire a Piety. In the other the Martyrdom of several Benedictine Saints, by the hand of great Correggio.
There are the Roofs of some little Chapells painted in Fresco, by Parmeggianino.
There is also in this Church over a little Door, as you go into the Covent, a S. John the Evangelist, painted in Fresco, by the hand of Correggio.
In the first Cloyster of the Covent of the abovesaid Fathers, there are many paintings in Chiaro Scuro, being Histories of the Old Testa|ment, by the hand of Carravagio.
124 The Palace of the Fontana adjoyning the Garden of the Most Serene Duke. In a low Apartement you see a great Square Chamber with the Roof painted in Fresco, by the hand of Augustine Carache, singular works, and the last of the Author.
There is a beautifull Inscription in the praise of Picture.
In the Apartement of Squares there is in one Chamber a Square with Venus and Adonis, by the hand of Paulo Veronese.
There is also a Figure representing a River, by Carrache.
Then follow the Heads of the twelve Em|perours in Chiaro Scuro, by the hand of Titian.
There is also another Square of many Animals, by the hand of Bassano.
You also see two Figures in two Squares but not finished, by the hand of Augustine Carrache.
There is seen likewise a little Square of two Ritrattos fixing a Crab-fish to the ears of a Cat and laughing, the work of Carache.
There is another Square, with a Psyche aloft, two little Figures, and the work of Tadeo Zuc|charo.
125 Now follows the Famous Chamber of the Ritratti. Over a Door is a Square of a beautiful Boy, by the hand of Hannibal Carache.
Then follow two Ritrattos, of a Senator and another composing of Musick, the work of Han|nibal Carache.
Next is a Lady ordering her Locks, or Tres|ses, by the hand of Titian.
Over these is a Ritratto of P. Paul the third when he was Cardinal; the work of excellent Raphael.
Next is a Ritratto of Diogenes with a writing pen in his hand; a fine thing.
You also see the Ritratto of that Amorous Lady, called L. Antea del Parmeggiano, by his own hand.
Beneath these Squares is a Ritratto of Duke Ranuccio the first· by the hand of Carache.
And beneath this again, there is the Picture of a little Girl with a Turbant on her head, the work of Giulio Romano.
Next is the Picture of Cardinal Farnese, by the hand of Carache.
Below the said Cardinal is anether Ritratto of Duke Pietro Alovigi, the work of Raphael Urbin.
Then follow on the third Front two Ritrattos, by Parmeggianino.
In the middle between these two Ritrattos is another Picture of the abovesaid Duke Pietro Alovigi Farnese, by the hand of Titian.
126 There are two little Ritrattos by the hand of Parmeggianino.
Next is the Picture of a Souldier, by the same hand.
There is also another Souldier in Armour, by the hand of Giulio Romano.
Over the Door you may see the Ritratto of Alexander the Great, the work of Titian.
Behind a Window is a Ritratto of a Philoso|pher, by Andrea del Sarto.
Over the Window are two Ritrattos, one of which is the Duke of Ferrara, the works of Titian.
In another Piece is the Picture of a Priest, by Parmeggianino.
Then follows the Picture of Paul the third, in little, the work of Titian.
Next to this follow two Ladies, by the hand of Parmeggianino.
On the other side of the Window are three Heads, by Titian.
There is also the Picture of Frà Sebastian[...] del Piambo, a Painter, the work of Giorgione.
And over this same is a Picture of a Shagged Spaniel, by Parmeggianino.
Here follows another Chamber. Where you will admire the marvellous [Note: Or Gypsy. ] Cingarina, by the hand of Correggio. There is also a S. Chiara, with a S. Anthony of Padua, by the hand of Caravagio.
You may likewise observe four Squares in 127 half Figures. In one is S. Mary Magdalen, in the other are S. Peter, S. Girolamo, and Prophet David, by Guercin da Cento.
You may observe near unto these, a Madonna with the Child, and a S. Joseph, by Raphael de Urbino.
Beneath this is a S. John, by the hand of Le|onardo da Vinci.
Then follows a Magdalen weeping, the work of Hannibal Carache.
Here are two Saints by Guercino, viz. S. Peter and S. Girolamo.
There is a S. Nicholas de Tolentino, by the hand of Pordenon.
Here is also a Head of S. Girolamo by the hand of Carache.
Next is a Madonna, with her eyes lifted up towards Heaven, by the hand of Carache.
You may observe likewise, a Nativity of our Lord, by Hannibal Carache.
Over a Chimney you may observe a Christ carrying the Cross, by the hand of Andrea del Sarto.
Then follow two Copies of S. John, Copied from the works of Correggio, by an able Master.
Now follows the Chamber of Audience. Where are two Squares hung aloft, of two Figures at length, by the hand of Correggio.
There are also two other Squares which re|present two Elements, viz. The Earth and the Water, by the hand of Bassano.
128 After these is another Square which represents Lucretia Romano killing her self, by the hand of Parmeggianino.
Underneath this Square there is another of the Espousal of S. Katherine, one of the fairest works that ever Correggio painted.
On each side of this Piece is a Ritratto, one is the effigies of Martin Luther, done by Ra|phael, the other by Parmeggianino.
Next is a Christ in a half-figure, by the hand of Correggio.
On the other front you see a S. Girolamo, a half-figure, by the hand of Leonardo da Vinci.
Near unto this is a Madonna with our Savi|our asleep, and a little S. John, by the hand of Hanniball Carache.
Then follow two Ritrattos in little, one is the Picture of Hanniball Carache; the other the Pi|cture of a Lady; both done by her own hand.
Then follows another Chamber, which they call the Chamber of Sivetta. In which you will find a Madonna with her Son at her feet, and a little S. John, by the hand of great Raphael.
There is also a Square only in rough draught, by Correggio.
You may see the Nativity of our Lord, by the hand of Carrache, a little Square.
Here follow three little Madonnas, by Raphael, very fair works.
129 Then follows a Madonna and her Son, and S. Joseph, by the hand of Augustine Carache, a rare work.
There is also a little Square of the head of a Madonna, by the hand of Frederico Zuccharo.
Next is a S. Rocco, in little, the work of Par|meggianino.
There is likewise a head of our Saviour, by the hand of Carache.
Then follows a half-figure as large as na|ture, of our Saviour, the work of Andrea del Sarto.
There is a head of a Priest after the life, by the hand of Hanniball Carache.
Then follows a Madonna with her Son in her armes, with a S. John, S. Joseph, and S. Marga|ret, the work of Augustine Carache.
You may plainly observe a Christ dead carried to his Sepulchre, with many Figures, painted upon Copper, a singular work of Hanniball Ca|rache.
After this follows a little Square with a S. Francis in a Trance, upheld by an Angel, and a Glory of Angels about, a most fair work of Hannibal Carache.
Then follows a S. John Baptist, by Hannibal Carache.
There is also a Madonna with her Son, by the hand of Parmeggianino.
Beneath this Madonna you see a Head of Por|denon.
130 Then follows another Chamber, which they call the Chamber of the Amoretti. In which you first observe a Lucretia Roma|na, and another Square of a Leda with a Swan, both of them by Dossi Ferrarese.
Adjoining to these is another Lucretia Roma|na, by the hand of Parmeggianino.
You also see The Passion of our Lord, the work of Hanniball Carache.
There follows a little Madonna with her Son in her Armes, and a S. John, by Hanniball Ca|rache; a very fine piece.
Another Square a the Madonna, S. Joseph, and several Angels, is the work of Dossi Fer|rarese.
There is also a S. Paul snatched up into the third Heaven, the work of Lanfranco.
As also another little Madonna, by the hand of Guercino da Cento.
Then Follows the last Chamber, which they call the Emperour's Chamber. In this Chamber you see three Squares.
In the first is represented Judith cutting off the Head of Holofernes.
The second does demonstrate Tarquin ravish|ing Lucretia Romana.
The third is Bathsheba discovered by David 131 out of his Palace window, Painted by a Lady called Artemisia, and very fair works.
You may also observe a Venus sleeping, by Hannibal Carache.
Over the Chimney there is a Square of St. Augustino, and other Figures, the work of Por|denon.
You likewise observe twelve Emperours finely done, by Hanniball Carache.
The great Hall in the middle of the said Apartement. Over the Chimney you will admire an An|nunciation, the Figure is bigger than the life, a singular work of great Correggio.
In this Hall you likewise see the Ritratto of Charles the fifth on Horse-back, a most singular work of Titian.
There follows in the same Hall, an Angel flying, with many other Angels which accom|pany him: the Figures are bigger than the life, by Hannibal Carache.
Then follow two other Squares, of S. John Baptist, and S. John the Evangelist, with many Heads of Angels, by the abovesaid Carache.
Next are two Squares of S. Benedetto and S. Mauro, with many Angels, by the same Hanniball. All these works are much bigger than the life.
On the other side of the Hall there is the Nativity of our Lord, with many Figures, 'tis a Night-piece, and the work of Bassano.
132 Right over against the Ritratto of Charles the fifth,
There is another Ritratto of Duke Alexander Farnese on Horse-back, by the hand of Augustine Carache.
In the Dukes Apartement there are Pictures of all sorts, of which I can give no good rela|tion, because of the great quantity there is of them, it also being difficult to get liberty of seeing them.
The City of
The Domo. AS you enter at the great Door, on your left hand, you see the Chapell of S. Corrado, by the hand of Lanfranco.
Higher up near to the Quire, behind the Al|tar, and on your right hand as you go into the Sacristie, there is an Altar with S. Alessio, by the same Lanfranco.
You also see in this Church a Picture which 133 represents S. Martin giving part of his Cloake for Alms, the work of Ludovico Carache.
The Church of S. Sisto, Fathers Benedictines. The Picture in the Quire which represents the B. Virgin and her Son, in the middle of the Picture, and by her side is S. Barbary, S. Sisto, and two Boys, a marvellous fair work, as it was the usual manner of divine Raphael.
S. Nazario, a Parochial Church. Going in at the great Door, you will find on your left hand, at the first Altar near the said Door, a painting which represents S. Mi|chael the Archangel holding Lucifer in Chains, with these words under-written Johannes Lanfrancus fecit.
S. Andrew, a Parochial Church. On your left hand as you enter the great Door, and in the first Chapell near the said Door, you will find an Altar-piece with the Image of the Madonna di Reggio, with S. Fran|cis de Assisi, and S. Rustico a Martyr; the work of Lanfranco.
134 The Church of the Fathers Serviti, called Madonna di Piazza. As you enter at the great Door, the third Chapell on your left hand is all painted by Lanfranco. The Altar-piece is S. Luke the Evan|gelist in a posture of writing, with his head lifted up towards a Troop of Angels.
The Chapell about the Altar, where there is a little Cuppola with the B. Virgin in glory, and around the said Virgin are twelve Persons which are believed to be the twelve Patriarchs, from whence she is derived.
After this there is another little Cuppola with small windows, and on the Top is the Father Eternal.
The Church of Madonna di Campagnia. Where you see several works around the in|side of the Cuppola, by the hand of Giorgone.
In this Church you likewise see two Cha|pells, one with the History of S. Katherine. In the other is the Picture of Christ: also the Altar of S. Augustine, all the works of Pordenon.
Then follows the Tribunal, by the same Au|thour.
In like manner you see a Picture with the Blessed Virgin, S. Peter, and S. Paul, the work of most noble Paulo Veronese.
135 Corte Maggiore, in the Territory of Piacenza.
The Domo. HEre you will see a Picture, and a little Cup|pola, singlar works of Pordenon.
There is also a Picture by Carache.
136 The STATE OF MODENA.
The City of
The Gallery of the most Serene Duke. IN this famous Treasury you see a half-figure, and a Head, by the most ingenious Leonarda da Vinci.
In the same you see a Ritratto of Raphael, and two Heads, by Andrea del Sarto.
And a great Square of Abraham's Sacrifice, by the same Sarto.
137 There are ten pieces, or there-abouts, by Giu|lio Romano.
You likewise see a Head, by Giorgone.
In this same Gallery there are four Squares by Titian.
The first represents the B. Virgin and S. Joseph travelling into Egypt.
The second is the Blessed Virgin and her Son, and S. Paul.
The third is the Child Jesus in the Manger.
Then follows the fourth called the Quadro della Moneta, viz. When the Hebrews shewed money to the Redeemer, singular works of the Author.
There are also seen some little pieces of Heads, by Pordenon.
Then follows the Picture of our Saviour, with another beautiful Square of old Palma.
Next are two great Squares of noble Paulo Veronese.
In one you will admire the Marriage of Cana in Galilee.
In the other the Coming of the Magi, with two other Squares, some of the fairest works of the Author.
The next you see is a famous Night-piece, by Correggio; one of his most admirable works, the Lights of the Picture darting out miraculously.
In like manner you will admire two Squares of bold Tintoret.
Also two of Giacomo Bassano.
One does demonstrate the History of the Sa|maritan.
138 The other is a Piece of Animals, both of them singular works, after his usual manner.
After these there are great Quantities of Squares, by Correggio, which I do forbear to name particularly for brevity sake.
You will see a Picture, and a Ritratto, by Parmeggianino.
There are likewise divers works of the three excellent Caraches.
There are also works of Guido Reno, and di|verse other Authors, which would fill a Book alone to write of all such Jewels as are contained in this Gallery.
I have onely named the most principal, I leave the rest to the Virtuoso's and most curious, to observe them particularly at their own leisure.
The Domo. There are two singular good Pictures by Guido Reno.
The City of Reggio.
The Church of S. Prospero. WHere you see a Picture with the Blessed Virgin and the Child Jesus, and S. Giro|lamo, 139 with S. Crispin and Crispianino, the works of Guido Reno.
The Picture in the Quire is by Hanniball Ca|rache.
The little Church of S. Joseph. There is a Picture which does demonstrate a living Christ, by Guido Reno.
The Confraternity of S. Rocco. The Picture in the Quire is the work of Han|niball Carache.
Finale di Modena.
The Church of S. Nicholas. HEre you will find a Picture of the B. Virgin with her Son, and S. Lorenz, the work of Guercin da Cento.
140 The House of Count Zuccati. The Front of this House is all painted by the abovesaid Guercin da Cento.
The Castle of Carpi.
The Domo. HEre is a marvellous Picture of S. Rocco, by the hand of Guido Reno.
Sassuoli ten miles distant from Modena.
The Church of the Capuchines. IN which you will admire that most beautiful Piece at the great Altar, by the hand of Ludo|vico Carache.
141 The City of Mirandola. IN this City (especially in the Duke's Gallery) they preserve variety of singular good works of diverse principal Authors, before-mentioned in this little work.
The City of Mantua.
The Domo. HEre you see a Picture representing the Re|deemer when he called James and John to the Apostleship, by Giulio Romano.
There is likewise seen another Picture with S. Anthony the Abbot, by Paulo Veronese.
142 The Church of S. Andrew. There are two Pieces, one demonstrates the Crucifixion of Christ; the other the finding of his Blood, by Giulio Romano.
The Church of S. Dominico. Here is seen a Picture of the abovesaid Giulio.
The Palace of T. There are the most famous works of Giulio Romano, in diverse Halls, Galleries, Chambers, &c. with Histories, and Freezes of all sorts, the works of this Palace deserve coming from a far Countrey to see.
In the Delitie di Marmirolo, there are also va|rious works of the same Giulio.
143
The STATE OF
The City of Milan.
The Church of the Madonna della Gratie, Fathers Dominicans. HEre is the famous Picture, by Titian, repre|senting the Crowning of the Redeemer with a Crown of Thorns, one of the fairest works of the Author.
144 The Domo. Here you see a most beautiful Picture of a Dead Christ, by the hand of Barocci.
The Church of S. Celso Preti. In the second Sacristie you see a Square of Raphael.
In the Church you will admire the Altar-piece of S. Girolamo, the work of
The Church of the Fathers Teatini. As you enter at the great Door, on your right hand you may observe a Square by the side of the furthermost Altar, by the hand of Ludovico Carache.
In the most famous Library called the Libraria Ambrosiana. There are four Squares by Titian, singular ones.
You see moreover, many works by Leonardo da Vinci.
In the same you see upon two Squares the di|spute concerning the Sacrament, by Raphael; pain|ted in
There are also divers designs of the most sin|gulars Painters named in this Book.
145 THE FAMOUS CLOSET OF Signior Manfredo Septale. THis Closet abounds with variety of Rarities, in Nature as well as Art, I shall only take notice of the best Paintings, being only proper to the thing in hand.
1. There is the Effigies of Galeazzo Septale, Captain of the Germans, and Great-unkle to Manfredo Septale. This Picture needs no other commendation than that it was the work of Titian.
2. The Picture of Ludovico Septale, Father to the same Manfredo, this is the work of Fide Gal|litia, the most celebrated Paintress in the world.
146 3. The Annunciation of the B. Virgin Mary, the work of a certain Hollander eminent in the Court of Rome.
4. The Picture of Senator Septale, Brother to Manfredo, the work of Daniel Crispi a Painter of great repute.
5. There is a large Picture of the aforesaid, Daniel Crispi, relating to the Temptation of S. An|thony, a singular invention.
6. Another Picture of the most Illustrious and Reverend Bishop Charles Septale, Brother to Man|fredo, the work of a Flemming, eminent in the City of Rome.
7. The Picture of Manfredo himself, the work of the above-named Daniel Crispi.
8. A small Picture of the B. Virgin Mary with S. Joseph and Christ an Infant taking of Fruits from S. Joseph, a work of singular beauty, and the work of that famous Woman Gallitia.
9. Another small Effigies of Ludovico Septale when he was a youth.
10. The Picture of the B. Virgin, with Christ, and S. John, being little Boyes, painted in a large Picture by great Raphael, the Prince of Painters.
11. A most Elegant Picture of a grave Ma|tron, by Leonardo da Vinci.
147 12. A small, but most noble Picture, by Ber|nardino Luini, a famous Painter, in which is re|presented the Picture of the B. Virgin Mary, and Christ giving a Flower to S. John Baptist.
13. The Picture of Nontio Gallitii a famous Limner, and Father of Fide Gallitia, who pain|ted this piece.
14. The Picture of Fide Gallitia in the flower of her age, done by her own hand.
15. The Picture of a Little Boy, the work of Fide Gallitia.
16. The Picture of the Duke of Ferrara, a singular work of Juliano.
17. Another Picture of Septale, the work of Bronzino, a Florentine.
18. The Picture of Gustavus Adolphus King of the Swedes, by an unknown hand.
19. The Picture of Christina Queen of the Swedes, and Daughter to Gustavus.
20. The Picture of Oliver Cromwell, by an un|known hand.
21. The Picture of the most Serene John Duke of Austria, the work of Paini.
22. The Picture of Pope Innocent the tenth.
148 23. The Picture of Pope Julius the second in the middle between two young Cardinals, viz. Cardinal Medici (who was chosen Pope when he was but thirty three years of age, and called Leo the tenth) and Cardinal Sixtus, the work of one of Raphael Urbines Scholars.
24. A Woman of tall Stature with her Face hairy all over, every hair as long as ones hand, an egregious work of Paini.
25. The Picture of a Monster by an unknown hand.
26. The Picture of Two Virgins in Hunting habits.
27. A great Picture of Bassano, representing our Redeemer Crowned with Thorns, a Night-piece.
28. A Picture upon which two Painters of no mean Rank (to wit Grosso and Duchino) did vie with each other, in it there is expressed the B. Vir|gin with the Child Jesus, and B. Elizabeth, and a little S. John.
29. A Picture expressing the sad Accident which befell Lucretia Romana sheathing a Dagger in her Bowels, as an eternal signification of her inviolated Chastity, the work of Cerani.
30. S. James sitting on his Horse, and bran|dishing his Sword amongst his dispersed Soul|diers, this is likewise a Picture of Cerani.
31. A S. Joseph, by Cerani.
149 32. A Busto, with the head of S. James, the work of Cerani.
33. The Woman believed to be a Whore, the work of that famous Painter Leonardo da Vinci.
34. David carrying in his hands the formi|dable head of the Giant Goliah, a singular work of Julius Caesar Procani, when he was young.
35. S. Francis with a Parrot, the work of Cerani's Sister.
36. A Lucretia, the work of Leone Aretini.
37. Another Lucretia, the work of Sardini.
38. S. Jerome accompanied with an Angeli|cal Minstrel, the work of Vermilii.
39. The Picture of S. John, the work of Her|cules Procacini.
40. An Anatomy naturally expressed by Daniel Crispo that eminent Painter, who painted most part of the great Carthusian Church at Tiacin.
41. The Picture of the most celebrated Ju|cunda, an Ornament in the King of France's Bed-chamber, a Copy from Leonardo da Vinci.
42. An Egyptian Woman, by Fide Gallitia, from an Original of Leonardo da Vinci.
150 43. A great Piece in which the Martyrdom of S. Cecilia is expressed, by Salimbono from an Original of Micerini.
44. Three large Pictures, Copied from the Paintings of Andrea del Sarto.
45. Two Pictures more of the same hand, in one is S. Agnes and S. Christina, in the other is S. Peter, and S. John.
46. The Picture of a Woman, a Natural work of Tintoret.
47. Herodias with S. John Baptist's head, the Head is the work of Cerani, Herodias the work of a Daughter of Cerani, and Wife to the Painter Melchiore Gherardino.
48. S. Jerome, and S. Lucia, the works of Metchiore Gherardino.
49. S. Jerome praying, a Night-piece, the work of Bassano.
50. A Picture containing the B. Virgin with h[...]r Son, and two Angels worshipping, the work of Soliano.
51. The B. Virgin with Jesus and S. John, a Copy from Raphael Urbin, the Original of which is reckoned amongst the precious pieces that the King of France preserves.
151 52. An Emulous work of Luino, after Raphael Urbino, expressing the B. Uirgin, with her Son and a Pilgrim.
53. The B. Virgin with her Son and S. Joseph, Copied from Correggio, by Fide Gallitia.
54. The Blessed Virgin Mary habited after the Egyptian mode, likewise Copied from Correggio, by Fide Gallitia.
55. A Heifer, painted by Fide Gallitia.
56. The Virgin, with Jesus, S. Elizabeth, and S. John, the work of Leo Aresini.
57. Another Virgin with Christ an Infant sleep|ing, the work of Camillo Procacini.
58. Two singular Pictures, one of which is illustrated with S. Katherine, in the other is the B. Virgin Crowned with a Glory of Angels, the works of Bernardino Luini, and his Brother.
59. A great Picture in which is expressed the first Murther, viz. Cain giving the fatal stroke to his Brother Abel, an original of Guido Reno. There are also four other Pictures, Copied from the Originals of the same Guido Reno.
60. A Magdalen, by Hercules Procacino.
61. An Annunciation brought from Rome, a piece of singular beauty.
152 62. Three Pictures famous for three Heads, that of Homer, another of S. Jerome, the third of Moses, having in his hands the Tables of the Law; the works of Tiroli.
63. Two Birds painted by Fide Gallitia.
64. A Porrot of the most beautiful sort, as also another Egyptian Bird, which were formerly live Ornaments in the House of Septale.
65. Daniel in the Lions Den, the Lions are the works of Daniel Crispi, after Brugora, but Daniel is the work of Melchiore Gherardino.
66. The Pictures of Exotick Animals, for|merly familiar Ornaments in the House of Sep|tale, now only beautifie two Squares, the chief of these is a Japan Bird called Micous, not so much famous for its diversity of colours, as for its Docibility, for when the Arch-Duke of In|spruck and the Arch-Dutchess of Austria were ad|miring, and praising of it, it answered scornfully, that Septale had given it them as a present to their most Serene Highnesses.
67. An Indian Crow.
68. Two large Landskips by the diligent hand of Pietro Florentino.
69. Two other Landskips of a lesser size, by the same Author.
70. A Tempest at Sea.
153 71. Another Prospect at Sea.
72. A Battle, by Carolo Battavo.
73. A Calm Sea, with many Sails displayed within the Haven, the work of a Fleming, after Brugora.
74. A great Landskip expressing a large Country, by Carolo a Sole.
75. King Priam's Palace in Flames, by Ru|dolpho.
76. Another Landskip after the life.
77. Another fair Prospect of a Countrey, the work of Pietro Flandro.
78. A great Picture representing Armed Wo|men, and other Types of War.
79. The Picture of the Great Colossus, or the Amphitheatre at Rome, together with Constan|tine's Arch, done at Rome, by one Philipp.
80. Other small Landskips, expressed in six Pictures.
81. A most perfect piece of Brugora.
82. The Picture of K. Philip the fourth, the most potent Monarch of Spain, by Paint.
154 83. A small Picture in Limning, which repre|sents Jesus going to Emaus, done at Rome.
84. Another small Picture, by Leonardo da Vinci.
85. Other two Pictures which represent the B. Virgin and Christ Crowned with Flowers.
The City of Cremona.
The Domo. ON the inside of the Front of this Domo there is a large History representing Christ Cru|cified between the Thieves, with many other Fi|gures, a superb work of Pordenon.
The City of Genoua.
The Church of S. Stephen. HEre is to be admired the History of the Stoning of this Saint, a stately work of Giulio Romano.
155 In divers places where the Gentlemen of Genoua assemble (but chiefly that called the Im|perial Assembly) are seen divers Squares of great Titian.
The publick Palace. Here is to be seen in a Hall, a Freeze of most beautifull Boyes, by the hand of Pordenon.
The City of Lucca.
The Domo. AT the third Altar on the right hand as you enter, you will find a Picture of our Re|deemer's last Supper with the Apostles, the work of Tintoret.
Near the Sepulchre of Cardinal Giudiccioni you see another Picture of the B. Virgin aud her Son Christ, Crowned by two Angels, at their Feet is an Angel playing upon the Lute, and on each side is S. John Baptist and S. Stephen, by Frae. Bartolo|meo.
156 In the Church of S. Romano, Fathers Dominicans. At the first Altar on your left hand as you enter, is another admirable Picture, wherein is expressed an Ecstasie of S. Katherine of Siena, and S. Magdalen with the Father Eternal in Glory.
At the second Chapell on your right hand is a Picture of the abovesaid Fra. Bartolomeo, wherein is expressed the Virgin Mother of Mercy, blessing great numbers of people with her Gar|ment, and above is the B Virgin with the Re|deemer with his armes spread abroad, and shewing.
Santa Maria, called Corte Landini. Here are two Pictures by Guido Reno, one is on the right hand of the great Altar repre|senting the Virgin in the Snow, with Christ in her arms, and an Angel shaking off the Snow, with a S. Mary Magdalen, and S. Lucia.
The other is on the left hand, with Christ on the Cross, at his Feet is S. Katherine a Virgin Martys, and S. Giulio a Martyr.
The Church of S. Piero Samaldi. As you enter at the great Door, the first Al|tar on the left hand is by old Palma, where you find S. Anthony the Abbot in the middle of four other Saints.
157 In S. Pietro Civoli. The third Altar on your left hand as you en|ter, is the work of Lanfranco, signifying the Martyrdom of S. Lorenzo.
Near to the side Door, is likewise seen a Pi|cture with Christ Crowning of S. Teresa, and over them are two Saints.
In S. Maria without the Gates. Here are seen two Pictures by Guercin da Cento, both of them near the great Altar; in one is S Lucia, in the other is the Assumption, with S. Sylvester Pope, and S. Francis of Asisi be|low.
Pescia, ten miles distant from Lucca.
In the Church called La Piere. ENtring this Church, in the utmost Chapell on your right hand, you see a stately Pi|cture of the B. Virgin upon a Throne with her Son in her Armes, and two little Angels, with 158 divers Saints on each side, an admirable work of incomparable Raphael.
Alla Piere de Lamari two miles distant from Lucca.
The Church. HEre is seen a Picture of the abovesaid Ra|phael, with the B. Virgin, S. Anthony, S. Bartholomew, and S. Bernardino of Siena, an ad|mirable work.
In this same Church, and in the first Chapell on your right hand as you enter, you see a Bishop and an holy Martyr, with two Ritrattos on their knees, and above the Altar is the Father Eter|nal, it is the work of an unknown Author, but a piece so beautiful that it does not give place to any Master whatsoever.
[Figure:
RAPHAEL d' Vrbina Nat: Ao 1483.
[Figure: portrait of Raphael] ]
159 The City of Naples.
The Chapell of Tesoro. IN divers parts of this Chapell you see Histories relating to several Saints, singular works of Dominichino.
In the same Chapell are likewise seen divers stupendious works by the hand of Giovanni Lan|franco.
The Church of S. Dominico. In this Church you see a most stately Picture of divers Saints, by the hand of great Raphael.
FINIS.
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Letters write [sic] to a friend 336Kb A Text Creation Partnership digital edition TCP Phase I Added to EEBO prior to August 2010 LETTERS Write to a Friend, By the Learned and Judicious Sir Andrew Balfour, M. D CONTAINING Excellent Directions and Advices For Travelling thro' FRANCE and ITALY With many Curious and Judicious Re|marks and Observations made by Him|self, in His Voyages thro' these Coun|treys.
Published from the Author's Original M. S.
EDINBURGH, Printed in the Year, M.DCC.
To the Most Illustrious, Most Potent, and Noble EARLE, ALEXANDER Earle of Murray, Lord Doun and Abernethy, &c.
Sometime Lord High COMMISSIONER, And Principal SECRETARY of State For the Kingdom of Scotland.
My Noble Lord! IN all Ages, discerning and serious Men, who knew best to allow and distinguish things and Persons, have made it their great Complaint, That the pre|sent Generation did degenerat from the former; And that the Generality of Men were too apt and ready to pursue bad Courses: And some think|ing Persons now, are easily in|duced to believe, that, the Days we live in, the World is not much mended. This notwith|standing, no Time hath been known (how dissolut soever) wherein some worthy & ver|tuous Men have not appear|ed, who have studied to im|prove Natural and Moral En|duements, and to pursue Ver|tue, preferring that way to base Interest, and selfish Ends. And it is well known, that even at this Time, when many & great Duties are easily superceded, there are here and there some Persons who worthily act up|on the Principles of Honour, Conscience, and Vertue, mau|gre all Discouragements. A|mong whom Your Lordship (even in your Solitude) moves and acts in a very high and conspicuous Sphere, to that Measure of lovely Vertue and Splendor, that Your Friends and Wellwishers admire, and your Enemies (if You have any) can find no matter of Censure. If there were many such in the Nation, it would be no hard mater to retrieve & bring in Vogue again, these ad|equat Qualities and Vertues, which often have rendered ma|ny of our Countrymen (en|dued therewith) famous and illustrious both at Home and Abroad. In the mean Time it is to be wish'd that each man would labour to reform Himself and his own Ways, conforming them to these ex|cellent Rules. And that cer|tainly at length would make and advance a laudable Re|formation indeed. But it is to be feared, that this would rather prove an abortive Wish, than that it shall have its wisht for Effect: albeit (to have it so with the World) it should be a part of our dayly Prayers, and come in continually to Our Letany.
My Lord!
Whilst You are Enjoying Your self, and are solaced with the Comfort of a good Conscience, in Your Retire|ment, making your self an Ex|ample of Vertue, and a Pat|ern of Honour and Goodness to those who observe you and your Actions. I humbly ad|dress Your Lordship, not de|siring to interrupt Your Re|pose, but to afford You a litle divertisement for some of your vacant and Recreating Minuts: By Offering to Your Lordships Perusal these following Sheets, and Begging Your Patronage thereto: And I judge I have little Reason to despair of your Favour and Acceptance, since Your Lordship was Pleased to shew a more than Ordinary Affection and Kindness to the Author my Father. And there|fore I hope this little Tract wil give Your Lordship some Con|tent; and for others I am bold to say, I hope well: for many Persons of great Honour and Judgement, have (since my Father the Authour's Death) been sollicitous to get written Copies from the Original, which was indeed perfected by My Father in his Own Time, without any Design to make it publick. But my Father's M. S. with all his Books be|ing committed to a certain Person he, without my Privity, gave out Copies to Knowing & Inquisitive Persons, as of late I came to understand, and now these Copies abounding abroad, and most (if not all) being defective or incorrect, (to Prevent my Father's being abused) I now send a True Copy abroad unto the World, and let it See the Light: And go it must under your Lord|ships Patronage, for I am con|fident the Design will succeed the better, and the Book will be the more acceptable to these who Love and Desire the Knowledge of such curious Maters: Nor shal I diffide its Fate, being first wellcome to Your Lordship, to whom I hereby address the same, most humbly and heartily, and not in course, ingyring upon a Patron, as the custom some|times is.
Thus, begging Your Lord|ships Pardon for my Presump|tion, I do intreat from your Lordship the Honour to be ac|counted,
My Noble LORD, Your Lordships most humble, Most Faithfull, most Devoted, And Obedient Servant, M. BALFOVRE.
i TO THE READER IT is needless to show the many advan|tages may be had from Travelling, since all are convinced of it; and the VVisest of Men in all Ages have thought this the best way to improve themselves: thus, as Homer, the Greek Master, showes us, Vlysses followed this Method.
Qui Domitor Trojae multorum providus Vrbes, Et Mores hominum inspexit; latumque per aeqour Dum sibi dumsocijs reditum parat, aspera multa Pertulit. And such a one Homer drew his Son Telemachus, whose adventures have of late been Painted by an excellent Pen, with all the advantages, requisit for the educa|tion of a good Man and Excellent Prince. ii Indeed, the World is a Theater, in which we may see not only the different productions of Nature, but also all the Arts & Mysteries of Government; and all the wayes of impro|ving Nature by Art; and every Climate affords new Scenes for improving Geogra|phy, Natural and Civil Historie, Medicine, Commerce, and all the Mechanick Arts.
Medicine certainly is much improved this way, for thus Galen writes, he sailed to Lemnos, Cyprus and Palestina of Syria, on purpose to see foreign Plants, and rare Ores and Mineralls.
The following Letters give you some ac|count, to this purpose, of these Countries in Europe viz. England, France and Italy, which for, Politeness & Civility, for Gran|deur and Magnificence, & for Arts and In|ventions, and the Publick incouragements of them, farr excelleth all the rest. The Author of them, Sir Andrew Balfour, Do|ctor of Medicine, spent some fifteen Years in his Travels, & Residence in these Coun|tries; He was a Man of an Excellent VVit, and of a Ripe Judgement, and of a most taking behaviour; He had improven him|self iii to the best advantage, with all the learn|ing taught in the most famous Vniversi|ties of these Countries, had acquired their Languages, and Conversed with the most famous Man then alive. The par|ticular Curiosity He had to learn every thing that might enrich his mind with knowledge, was in his youngest Years fa|voured with the Example and Instruction of his eldest Brother, 30 Years elder than himself, the Famous Sir James Balfour, Lyon King at Arms, who had a Curious Bibli|otheck, had Collected in his Cabinet ma|ny Curious Products of Nature and pieces of Art, and took delight to cherish this ear|ly Curiositie of his youngest Brother: With this Disposition & proficiencie in the Lear|ning then taught in his Native Country, He begun his Travels, which, in so long a Tract of time he employed that way, came to Qualify him exceedingly for perform|ing all that is recorded of him. [Note: In the Memoria BALFOU+R[...]A[...]A. ]
When He wrot these Letters He had setled his abode at
This Gentleman had a particular Genie in|clining him to studie Natural History, and all the wayes and means, how to improve the Arts, most usefull to his Countrie; He v had studied the Mathemathicks, & delighted much in the practical part of them, & em|ployed much of the Revenue of that plen|tifull Estate He had from his Ancestors, in purchasing Instruments, & Curious Books, which treated on these Subjects, He having Travelled over a great part of this Coun|try, in searching after the Plants that grew wild up and down in it, & withall having read severall writers on the Plants, he every Year sent for new Seeds of foreign Plants: He inclosed a considerable Parcel of Ground, in which He trained them up with great Skill; and before He [...] to his Travells, He had of domestick and fo|reign Plants, growing in his Garden at
He begun his Voyage the 2d. of Septem|ber 1668, and dyed in August or September 1671. In these places of England and France He Travelled thorough, He gives a very particular Account, even of the Di|mension vii of the Publick Buildings, the Re|marks, the distances of the places; He gives an Account of the Government of France, of the Peers there, & the Orders of Knight|hood; He gives an account of the Remarkable Manufactories in France, & particularizes some of the Mines and Quarries of Marble, and has an Account of the Canale for the Communication betwixt the Mediterrane|an and the Ocean; He shows the Quali|ty of the Weather, the Habits of the Peo|ple in the Souths parts of France; He de|s[...]ibes the Monuments of Eminent Men, & [...] some of their Sepulchral inscriptions, and takes notice of the best Gardens and of the C[...]iners of the Curious where He Tra|velled· describing many particulars not to be [...]et [...]ith in the printed Voya|ges, and upon this Account his Voyage deserves very well to be made Publick.
As to these Letters of Sir Andrew Balfour now published, I shall leave the Judge|ment of them to the Learned, who may peruse them; yet this I must say, There are many particularities in them relating to Na|tural History, and the way of Safe and con|nient viii Travelling, not to be met with in the prin|ted Accounts of these Countries, and I am per|swaded they are of Excelleut use for these who study Natural History, and Physick, where they may be informed where Plants, & other Subjects of them, are to be found in their Native Places, and where they may see the Cabinets of the Curious.
Others will be hereby instructed in the Manners, Orders, and Customes, of these People; They will find likeways many Cu|rious Reflections, which are Pleasant to read, and may give rise to higher Conside|rations. They will see what Varieties fo|reign Countries of a different Soil & Tem|perature of Air, do afford; severall of which may be brought here, and may be made usefull to this Country.
What Sir Andrew delivereth here, is what he observed, experienced, and hand|led himself, and none need question the Re|lations in any Circumstance; He was known to be a most candid and Ingenious Gentleman, He gives his apprehension and Judgment of the Reasons & causes: which was allways much valued by all which ix kneDw him; being a Gentleman of Excel|lent VVit, and Judgment: He did not ex|pect that they should be printed, and in his lifetime he would never hear of it; and such was his Modesty, he never shewed them to any but his most intimate Friends, and could not be perswaded to give a Copie of them, but since his Death copies of them have past from hand to hand, and all who have seen them are very well pleased; where|upon at the earnest intreaty of his Friends, his Son hath published them in the Stile he found them writen; his design was to render all easie & intelligible to his Friend he wrote them to; if the Phrase & Lan|guage seem in some places less ornate, & not so congruous as may be expected now, it is to be remembred, they were writen thirty Years ago, when he had been Fifteen Years absent from his own Country, & had accustomed himself to speak foreign more Language, than to Studie the Elegancie of his own Native Tongue; & this I think should excuse him at the hands of the Cri|ticks, He Studied more things than words, x & yet, as all know, He expressed himself most handsomely upon all Occasions.
It was fitt this should be Represented: The rest is left to the impartiall Reader, who will meet with so many Remarkable & use|full things in the Letters, that there is no doubt of his kind Acceptance of them. If these meet with the encouragement hoped for, 'tis like, the Baron of Lovingstone his observations in his Travels, in our Lan|guage too, and a Voyage of another Coun|tryman of ours, through France and Italy, writen in a pure Stile of Latine, may be pu|blished for the satisfaction of such as are Curious of Travells,
Farewell.
1 LETTER I.
CONTAINING An Account of what is remarkable in and about London, &c. And in and about Paris, &c.
Sir,
I Cannot inform You of any thing considerable on this side
At
As for the other beauties of the Court and City I need not say much, being you will easily be informed of them up|on the place: I shall only hint at some of the most considerable,
And first, at Whythall be pleased to take Notice of the [...]anquetting-house; you will find it of a stately fabrick, such as the late King designed to have all the Palace of; it was built by King James, the historie of whose diefication you wil find Painted on the roofe within, by the noble artist Rubens, only you will find the Figures too big, occasioned by the 4 Painters misinformation concerning the Hight of the Room, which he was made beleeve to be greater. The King's privy Rooms are worth the seeing, because of their excellent Ornaments of Hangings and Pictures.
2 The
3. Henry VII. Chappel and the tombs in and near it.
4. You will do well upon some Holy|day (if any happen during your abode there) to see the King at Divine service, in regard of the extraordinary state used on such dayes, as also of the excellent Musick; I would advise you likwise to see the King dine on some such day.
5. The Tower, in which be curious to see the Mint Crown, Scepter, & Treasury, the Magazine of ancient arms &c. and the new Arsenall built and furnished by the present King, The wild Beasts.
6.
7. The King and Dukes play-houses.
8. The Innes of Court, especially the Temple, Lincolns Inn, and Gray's Inn.
9. The New Exchange, and not farr from it, Sommerset-House.
10. St. James's-House and Park.
11. If yow please to take a pair of Oares the length of Greenwich, you will see the Kings new House that is a building there, and if you please to walk up to the Hill above it, You will have a prospect up and down the river, which the multi|tude of goodly ships, the pleasantness of of the Countrey about, and our Coun|treyman John Barcly's curious Descripti|on and Commendation of it, render most famous.
12. For the rest, I shall only put you in mind, that about
From
For your accommodation from
At
From thence you must Hire Horse to
At
1. The Bridge on the River, which is of wood, supported by boats, and rises and falls with the Tide.
2. The great Church; if you will be at the pains to go to the Top of the Steeple you may [...]ave a verie good prospect of the Town and Avenues, you may also see the biggest bell in the World called the St. George of Amboise.
3. The Palace, where the Parliament Sits; the great Hall is commended for its breadth, being it is without pillars, but 9 in my opinion it comes far short of West|minster-Hall at London.
There is a litle Village about half a League from the Town called
You may take the messenger to
At
1. See
2. The Kings garden, where be sure to make a strong friendship with the Gard|ner; and You may command what You will of Plants or Seeds.
3. The Kings Library, and especialy there, the Books of Minature done by Monsieur Robert, which I look upon as the best curiosity of that kind in the World.
4. The
5. Monsieur Marchant's own Garden; He dwells, Rue du Roy de Sicile devant la nostre Dame d' Argent, deriere le petit St. Antoin; his Gard[...]n is hard by his house, and there You may see some curious Plants, not to be found elsewhere in France.
6. The Jesuites College, where en|quire for some Scots Father, and desire 11 him to procure you a sight of the Bibli|otheck, and Mathematical House; there you will see the 3. Systems of the World, according to the severall Hypotheses of Copernicus, Tycho Brache, and Ptolomeus, represented in Motion.
If You be desirous to learn Chymie, You may cause Monsieur Marchant ad|dress You to Monsieur Barlet; He lives au College de Cambray, and uses to teach Courses; It will cost you ten Crowns for the Course, and two Crownes for his Book; He demonstrates from two a clock in the Afternoon till five, and fi|nisheth his course in three weeks. I think it might be worth your while, in regard you will hardly find the like Occasion a|ny other where.
I need not say any thing of the Book|sellers, being they are obvious A la Rue St. Jaques; for new Books at the Palace; for French Books, as Romances, &c. A la Place de Sorbone; as also at the End of the new bridge about nostre Dame church, also at the postern Gate of the Palace and upon the Mont St. Hiller, for old Books of all Sorts.
12 Remember to cause Monsr. Marchant show You a maker of Mathematical In|struments that lives dans l'Isle du Palais au Key qui est vis a vis la valle des Mi|seres, and enquire for the designing In|strument; about the same place also you may be provided of Microscops of al sorts; If You desire to have your own, or any other Picture done: enquire for Monsr. Ferdinand, Paintre sur la Fosse an Faux|bourgs St. Germaine proche l' Academy de Monsr. du Plessis, but make your bargain before Hand.
It will be worth your while to see some places about
1 Maisone, a very delicat House, be|longing to the President of Maisone, & standing upon the River of Saine, some 4. Leagues from
2 St. Germaine, A House belonging to the King; from thence four Leagues further a little off the River, to
3
4 Rue[...]e, You have about two leagues: it is a prettie little House built by Cardi|nal Richlieu; The G[...]rdens are exceed|ingly prettie, and the Water-Works the best in France; From thence You may come to
5 St. Clou, A House belonging to the present Duke of Orleans; From thence on your way to
Having performed this Journey in one or at the most two days, you may with your conveniencie visit
6 St. Denys, in the Abbey whereof there 14 is a famous Treasurie kept. Remember to take Nottice of Charles the Great's Crown, in which there is a Rubie of the Bigness of a Pidgeons Egg; A large Cup of oriental Aggat, which they count much of; One of the Nails that fixed our Saviour's Bodie to the Cross, sent to Charles the Great by Constantine V. Emperour of Con|stantinople; One of the Potts, wherein our Saviour changed the water into wine at the Marriage of Cana in Galilee; The Pucel of
7 I know nothing better worth your seing about
8. Fountainbleau, in which there are so manie things considerable: not only in the House, furniture, and painting; but also in the Gardens, Walks, Fish-ponds, and water-works, that it will be less trouble for you to observe them by seing, than by a long narration; I shall only tell you for the better improvement of your Journey thither that you will doe well first to go to
9. Esson a House seven leagues from
10. To Durance, a privat House like|wise, but to which there belongs very noble gardens and walkes, with delicat Ponds and Jetts of water. It will not be a miss to stay here all the night, being 16 You will have 4 Leagues to Fontainbleau, a great part of which is through the Forrest, and therefore better to be gone in the morning, when the day is before Your hand, than in the evening when night may surprize You.
11. You may arrive so early in the morning at Fountainbleau that You may have time to see all before dinner, and thereafter returne to Veau, a most stately house and gardens correspondent to it, built by Monsr. Fougues[...], but since his disgrace it's fallen to the King: From hence you may returne a short League off your way to lodge at Melun; The next morning You will have an easie Journey to
[Postscript starts here] Sir,
I intreat You to signifie to Mr. Hannay as also to Mr. Cranston that if they have any thing to send to me, You will be pleased to take charge of it; I shall beseech You likewise to do the same by Monsr. Marchant at
19 LETTER II.
Containing Advice for makeing the grand Toure of France, with an Account of what is most observable relateing especi|ally to the Natural History and Anti|quities of that Kingdom.
Sir,
IT seems You are not yet resolved whi|ther to spend the Winter in
I suppose You leave
And here I must put you in mind that in this same meadow I have very often seen very large green Lizards, which because it is a beautifull creature and not found with us, I must intreat you where ever you find of them to cause preserve 1 or 2, to add to my Tradescants. I know not which will be the best way of pre|serving them, whither by skinning them, or drying the flesh, but I suppose the best way will be (especially if the skin be any 25 thing strong) to cause skin them, pre|serving the head feet and taile, and then stop the Skin with Flax. There are like|wise severall other Birds in France which are not common with us, which I must earnestly intreat you to do the same by, as for example the Pie verte or Green Pyet, &c.
3ly. from
4ly. In my time the best Lodging was A la St. Marthe; the place is commended for the Sweetness of it's Situation, the 26 delicacie of it's Fields and Gardens, and many other Particulars. It will be worth Your while to see the Manufactories of Silk, especially the way of working Tisse|nes, and Brocarts, which You will see of diverse Colours and some of Gold and Silver. The invention and way of making Tabbies, which I forbear to descrive, be|cause You will abundantly discover it by sight. You must be at the pains to fetch a walk out of town a litle way to see the Maille, which in any time was the longest and in the best order of any in France; and at the same time, you may go the length of the Minims Convent because the first in|stituter of their Order St. Francois de paul, lyes Buried in the Church in a marble Coffine, as will be shown You, which People visit with great Veneration: if you will be at the pains to pass the River there is an ascent to the Capucins whence you may discover the whole City, and a great part of the Countrey about, which for it's Beauty and Fertility is called the Gardin of France. and certainly deserves that Name better than any Place upon 27 the whole River of Loir. There is like|wayes not far from Tours, a Place which they call la cave Gutiere, From the Top of which there drops a Liquor which Congeals into a substance almost as hard as a stone not much unlike that you sent me from Hamiltoun.
5ly. You may go from Tours to Sau|mure a town famous for it's Protestant University, of which we have two very honest countrey-men that are members, Monsr. Doule and Monsr. Gray. You may take the pains to see Nostre damo d' Ardeliers a Place of great devotion; if you please you may see the Treasurie which is Rich, and as you go and come, you may observe the great Trade of that Suburbs, to be making of Beads or Chap|lets; I beseech you forget not to bring us some that are made of young Oranges: If you please you may see the Castle. At Saumure you must hire Horses to make a litle tour of three days, and first you must go to Doue, where there is to be seen an ancient Amphitheatre cut out 28 of a Rock, as it is said, by the Romans. There are likewise verie many great quar|ries of free stone and the Workmen often find in cleaving of the stones, some litle peices of a finer and harder substance by farr than the rest, which from the shape they have, They comonly call Langues de Serpents. The little Boys for a small matter will sell you abundance of them which I pray forget not to buy, If not for your own, at least for your friends curiositie. From thence you must go to Thouars, a most delicate House belonging to the Duke of Tremoville, it is situat upon a Rock, and the greatest part of the office houses cut out of the Solid Rock. The next Morning you go to Waren, a verie prettie House but not much worth the pains of seeing were it not in Your way to Richlieu, where you are to spend the rest of that day, That you may have the more time to view the Toun and House, which I think so well worthie your seeing, That for it's sake a Journey from
The third day you may Dine at Lou|dun where in my time there was a Re|ligious Woman, that had been formerly Possessed. At the time of her cure which they say was Miraculous there was found Written on her hand JESVS MARIA JOSEPH, which still remained inde|lible. If she be yet alive you May see it. From thence you returne by
6ly. You may hire horses to La Fleche, where the only thing considerable is the Jesuits Colledge. It is a most noble Structure, and by far the best they have in France. Take Particular notice of their Church where the heart of Henry the 4th who gave them that House is kept: The Bibliotheck: The Theatre-hall: their Office houses, particularly the Kitchen; the Bake-house, where one Man and a Dog makes bread for all the Col|ledge every day: the Myln where the Water that moves the Wheele doeth likewise move a Pump that furnisheth water to the whole Colledge. The best lodging was Au quatre Vents. From hence you must again take horse to
7ly It is a Town famous for the Pro|fession of Laws, and hath likewise a 31 Faculty of Physick: See the great Church called St. Maurice, and therein one of those pots in which our Saviour convert|ed the water into Wine at the Marriage of Cana in Galile. See the Maill, and at the end of it next the town the Mi|nims Convent. You will find in their Garden severall Kinds of Ilex; You will likewise find in severall places of the Countrey not far from the Town severall sorts of Pinastres, as also a kind of Fruit tree called Cormes, not mnch unlike our Raun-tree, the Fruit whereof hangs in Clusters like our Roddens: but of an other colour, and bigness every one be|ing as big as a Plumb. A League or two from the town towards the East, are the Pierries or quarries, of blew Skleat called Ardoise which serve the greatest part of France: See the Castle, and in it that famous crib where Rene King of Sicilie and Duke of Anjou imprisoned his Queen out of Jealousie all the days of her life. About half a League distant from the town, doun the River stands a Convent called Bamet, worthie of see|ing; 32 there is likewise on the other side of the River an old Abbacie called Les Bons Hommes, near to which there is a litle lake, which I suppose to have been the place where the blew Sklate was dug of old; you will find about the sides of it, aboundance of Tribulus aquaticus, the Fruit thereof is ripe in the Moneth of August; they use to Boyll them and Sell them as they do Chasnuts, from which they differ not much in Tast or Quality, but verie much in Figure, and therefore be pleased to provide a Quantitie of them for your self and Friends. You may likewise dry the Plant, if you think fit.
8ly You May go If you please from
You may furnish this Journey, and have Time enough at
5ly. Forget not to take with you your Catalogue of Books, for there are many Booksellers in this Place, that have great Magazins of Books, and have great traf|fick with all Germany, Swizerland and Italy, and it is very like, you may come by Books here that you missed of at Pa|ris; For so it happened to my self.
I must not omit in this place to tell you that it will be expedient, to draw your Money from Paris, to
From
You have to take notice of, by the way 1st.
When you come at
From hence you go to Dine at Cava|illion; in the rest of the Journey to
46 From hence you go to
9ly. Take a view of the Country a|bout
At
I must give you notice here, that in this place, you are not, above two or three hours ryding, from Cane, a Village, upon the Sea-side, some eight or nine Lea|gues distant from
I shall therefore returne to Astrate, where having satisfied your self, with herbarizing you may returne to Freiust; loaden with Seeds, and Plants, and there consider them at your ease: From thence you may return to
From
Clematis, vel flammula repens, aespalathus· phyllarelea Folio non serrata, Jesiminum luteum bacciferum, Stellaria argente[...] Ambrosia campestris, datura simplici calice albo, aster attious foliolis ad florem rigidis, aster lunariae folio, flore trifolij. Jacea cianoides flore albo folio multifido, trifo|lium bituminosum, acarna lutea, Erin|gium luteum monspel: bicopsis flore carnec, Carduus Spharocephalus ceruleus, ama|ranthus viridis, campanula flore plumeo, attriplex non descript[...] Semine singulari 59 binis foliolis incluso, Linaria minor lu|tea, paliurus and a great many more that I cannot remember of; but it will be well worth the while to take a Note of the Plants you find in every Place.
At
You will do well to stay some days at
3ly. You will do well to make ac|quaintance with some of the Students or young Doctors of Physick, by whose means and in whose company you may see all the places about
You may likeways find some variety of Shells and productions of the Sea, to
I must not omit to tell you, that if you please to make a Collection of dry Plants, this is a very fit Place for it, both because of the heat which helps to dry them, both soon and well; & also be|cause of the Garden & Fields, that abound with Plants, that are not common, & likeways, because of the good occasion you have to send them in a Box, close packt up, (as you have seen mine) to Lions, &c.
In like manner, if you will make a Collection of Seeds, the best will be to keep them in their Seed-Vessels, and 62 write upon every parcell, that you may dispose of them afterwards according to your pleasure.
This I wish you to do in every Place, that afterwards when it shall please God to bring you safely to bring them home, Tho' you should not be able to raise them in this climat, yet you might have enough to know them by. Do not forget the Booksellers here, who may possibly have some of the Books you look for. I must desire one Favour of you in this Place, that You would be pleased to enquire after the Psilothrum or Depilatory Ointment, which they use in
When you are satisfied here, it will be fit to set forward to
From
From
From
From
At
From
From
The
75 You must be at the pains to see the Isle of Re, about a League from the Town, but not above a quarter of a League from the Land. As you go from the Rochel, to the place where you are to take Boat to cross over, they will show you the Ruins of that Digue, which Cardinal Richlieu caused make by sinking of Barks, loa|den with Stones, to hinder all relief for the Town by Sea, and it was obser|veable, that the very day after the Town surrendered, the Digue was broke down by Storm, which if it had done but three days sooner, it may be justly que|stioned whether the Town had ever been taken, especially seeing the English Fleet was ryding before the Isle of Re.
In the Isle of Re, there is a Citadale, near to which you will be put a Shore upon the Island, but it is not usual to per|mit Strangers to enter into it. At the east end of the Island, there is a little Town called St, Martines, in which there are many Dutch Families, because of the great trafique the Dutch hath with 76 this place, for Salt and white-Wines. The Island is generally of a Sandie Soil, and only made fertile by the Sea-Ware which they throw upon it, and which in my Opinion is the cause, that all the Wines both of the Island and about the
I must advertise you here, that if you please you may make this Tour an o|ther way viz. To Nantes, as in the for|mer advice concerning the Petit Tour, as far as
I shall conclude all with my best wi|shes for your health & happy Return, & most earnestly intreat you not to grudge us with the effects of a Spare hour, that seeing at this distance, we cannot be so happy, as to enjoy you personally; we may at least by this next best way enter|tain a Correspondence, which I assure you will be a great Kindness to your Friends here, but to none so much as 79 to my self who cannot be indifferent in any thing, that concernes you, And therefore cannot but be sollici|tous, to hear often from you, as the only thing, that can supply the want of your person, So much desired and longed for, by &c.
81 LETTER III.
CONTAINING Advice for Travelling into ITALY.
Written to a Friend
IT is much better to go into
The most convenient way of ma|king the Toure of Italy, (in my opini|on) is to go through
84 The first thing You will meet with, worthy the taking notice of, is
I must not omit to tell You that you must be sure at your first leaving of France in the last Town that You happen to be in, whither it be Cane or any other, to get a Certificate of your health and free|dome from the Plague, as also of the freedom of that Town. There are persons appointed in every place for giving of such Bills, or Patents de Sainte, as they call them. Their Subscriptions are known to the next Townes about, where you are to go, so that it is not easie to counterfit, and besides it were very dan|gerous to doe so; They are very scrupu|lous in this matter upon all the Coast of Liguria, for fear of contagion; So that when you arrive at any Town, before you go a shore, you must send one of your Boat-men, with your Certification to be 86 shown to such as are appointed for those matters in that Place, who immediately upon the Sight of the Bill permit you, la Practica, that is Libertie to stay in the Town as long as you please, and do what you will. When you part from that, You must take a new Cer|tificat to the next Place, and so of the Rest untill you come at Ligorn, where this niceness will end.
You must carrie with you no Secret Weapon, as Dagger, Pocket Pistols, or the like: And this is general all o|ver Italy, except only in the Kingdom of
From
All the Coast, of Liguria, from
From
Sir
I have sent a Bundel marked---by--- 91 Indweller in this Town, and Carrier to
SIR, Yours &c.
THe other Letter of Voiture is an Obligation under the car|riers hand to You, which you must send by the Post to your correspondent at Li|ons. The Form of it ought to be as follows.
92 I Vnder Subscribed Carrier of
I Have been the more particular in these things, because altho' they may seem to be triffles, to those that are conver|sant in such matters, yet a small mistake, may be the occasion of a great Miscar|riage. I shall now return to put You in mind of some other particulars, and 1. That in this Place, Oisters are a ve|ry great Delicat, there being but one person that has Priviledge to sell them, for which he payes a considerable Sum 93 to the great Duke; I know not well from whence they are brought, but I am sure it is from a considerable Distance: They are keept in the Town-Ditch, on the East side of the Town, which is full of salt water, because it hath communion with the Sea; the keeper hath a little House hard by, and accor|ding to the number Bargained for, takes them alive & very fat out of the Ditch, & sells them at the Rate of a Pistole the Hundred. They are many times put into the Ditch little, and keept untill they be big enough, they taste very well, and are by far the best in Italy. 2. To the East-ward of the Town, about a Mile or little more, there is an Hill called Monte Nero, upon which there is good harbarizing. You will do well to take a Horse and a Guide with you to the Place. From
From
The Humour of the people is Chear|full and very Civil, and contrary to the Custome of all Italy, Men and Women converse freely amongst themselves or with Strangers. They use Balls & Dance|ing, much after the French Fashion; The Religious people use to distill Spirits and Essences, whereof you may provide what Quantitie you please, both good, and good cheap, I wish you might help a Friend to some of Orange-Flowers and Myrtles; The religious Women likeways use to make very prettie Things, and particularly I remember they use to sell Stomagers of quilted Silk, which most people use to wear in the Winter-time, of one Fashion or an|other.
From
I must give You notice in this Place, that You will doe well to Treat with some of those men that Work about the Chapel, or else with some of those stone-cutters in the Gallery for some small Peeces of all the species of stones; let them be of such a Bigness as may easily serve to know them by. I make no doubt but You may get them at a Reasonable Rate. But I must earnestly intreat You to mind those two Species of stones which are found in Quarries not farr from
There is one Dr. Kirton Dr. of Phy|sick, He is a very civill and obligeing Gentleman; If he be yet alive he will be Your Interpreter: and if You need not that, he will help You to expede the rest of Your affairs; in short, both his coun|sell and his company are to be esteemed; He is an English Man born, low in stature and prettie ancient.
You must not faill in this Place to take notice, of the variety of Fruits, & Wines; as the Red
110 If You happen to be here in the Sum|mer time, especially when the Grapes are Ripe, You will find in the Markets great Varietie of Fowles and small Birds, where|of I intreat You to take notice, but espe|cially of those kinds, that are not common with us, and try to get their Skins, which may be easily done, when the bird hath not been long Dead; the rump must be left at it for preserving of the Taile; The Head, Wings and Feet must be like|wise left, and only tbe body taken out, & so the Skin filled with Flax or Cotton. This I intreat You to remember to doe wheresoever You shall happen to be in the Summer time, and if any such occasion Present it self to You in Winter, not to ommit it.
From
112 The places You are to pass by, are Cheifly these as follows.
From Viterbo, all that distance to
As for the things to be seen here, they are so many, and so considerable, that it would require a large Volume to de|scribe them, and there are abundance of such Books extant, to which I referr you, and especially to one in 80. called L' Antichita di Roma di Andrea Fulvio: but you must not fail to get an Anti|quario, who for a certain Summ of two or three Crowns will show you all the particular Antiquities and considerable places of the Town, and as for the fuller information of them your Book will serve you: I shall only hint at some|things worthie to be taken notice of; 1. The Court; that is, the Pope, Cardinals, Prelates, Monsigniorie &c. There are some great Holy days, when the Pope Celebrats Mass in person; it will be sit to 128 wait upon some of these occasions, for then you will see the Grandeur of the Court and the forme of a Cavalcata, together with the Popes ordinary Guards. 2. The Churches. 3. The Palaces; espe|cially those of the Vatican, together with the Bibliotheck and Gardens of Belvidere, in which amongst other things take par|ticular notice of the statue of Ly[...]aon with the Serpents wreathed about him; There is an other Garden also belonging to the Vatican, in which there are many exo|tick Plants, it was planted by the Popes or|der, by Tobias Aldinus and is Keept still in reasonable good order; amongst other things you will find the Cameripses, or Camedactylus, of the bigness of a Low Tree and carrying Fruit; there is like|wise a Grotta or water work, and very fine Fountains of water, about which grows plentifully the Capillus veneris Major or Ramosus. and Arum Aegypti|um Mathioli, sive Colocasia, which is a plant carying no stalk, flowr nor fruit in
129 The Palace of Farnese; and in it that Gallery whereof the Painting in Fresco by Aniball Caraccio is so famous, and the Tauro which is kept in a little House a part, in the back court of the Palace. It is the noblest piece of Art extant in
The Palace of Principe Pamphilio; it stands in the Piazza Navona, where you may take notice of that Glorious Fountain made by Cavelier Bernini, whereupon the top of a little artificial Rock, are placed, four great delicate Marble Statues, representing the foure great Rivers of the World, and each of them pouring out of a Vale placed under one Arme, a great quantitie of Water, and in the middle of the four there stands one of these Gulias graven with Aegypti|an Hieroglyphicks, brought from A[...]gypt by the Antient Romans. They use to 130 stop the way-goe of the Water, some|times in the Summer, and lett the Place overflow with Water, and then Peo|ple come toward the evening, in their Coaches, and drive softly up and down the water to take the fresco, which is one of the greatest Gusto's in Rome.
Palazzo Borghese, Standing near to the Ripetta. Palazza Palistrino; and in it the library, where you may see two copies of the Hortus Eystetensis, one illuminated and the other not; Mr. Lesty will command you a sight of that when you please, for it belongs to Car|dinall Francisco Barberino.
The Popes Palace of Monte Cavallo, and the Gardens thereof. 4. The Villa's: as first that of Borghese, which is with|out the walls: there is a particular Book to be sold by the House keeper, that sufficiently descrives it and all the beau|ties of it, to which I Refer you. 2ly. the villa or Palazzo medici, belonging to the great Duke of Tuscany. It stands upon the monte Trinita, the Hall is ador|ned with a great many Pillars stand|ing 131 about the Walls, of most delicat Marbles, and the Originalls of a great many Illustres and virtuosi. In one of the Chambers there is a most beautifull statue of Venus, of Grecian Antiquitie. In the Garden there is a Noble statue of Cleopatra, the Ruins whereof were repar|ed by Michaell Angelo bona rota, and many other statues Base Releiv's and Vases, which for Brevities sake I must omit, and refer you to the particular Books that treat of those things, But most of all to your own diligence in viewing them and keeping a punctuall Register of all that you see, and so I shall only name some of the Villa's that remain, and are most considerable. As the Villa Montalto; The Villa Ludo|visi, where amongst other Admirable things the statue of the dying Gladi|ator is excellent. The Villa Farnesi; The Villa Pamphilio, which is a pretie way without the walls, and the rest which I leave to your sight.
5ly. The Castle of St. Angelo, which formerly was the Burial Place of Hadrian 132 the Emperor. 6. The Hospitalls; Parti|cularly that of St. Spirito, which is a most magnificent Structure, and well ap|pointed in all things. They will show you amongst other remarkable things, the Place where the Children of such a Big|ness are permitted to be put in, without any further inquirie made after them, or who brought them. By this means the Life of many a Child hath ben saved, which otherways would have been taken away to prevent the dis|grace of the Parents. They are no soo|ner put in, but Nurses are got for them: If they be Boyes, when they come to a convenient Age they are put to Trades, according ro their several Inclinations and Capacities. But if they be Girles, then when they come to the Years of discretion, if they incline not to a Religi|ous Life, every one of them is provided with so much Portion to Marry her with, out of the common revenue of the House; And then upon a certain Day appointed for that purpose; all Zitelle or maids come in Procession, one after ano|ther, 133 with their Faces Vail'd, and the Men that come there upon such Days, of pur|pose to choose a Wife, (for all of them have a like Portions) pitch upon such as please them best, and present them a Nose|gay, after which, she is sequestred from the rest, & the Marriage Solemniz'd, after the Man has given Information of him|self and sufficient Caution that he shall provide a Lively-hood for her. There is a very fine little Garden that belongs to the Hospital lying just upon the Tyber. It uses to be well furnished with Plants, and I have seen the Dictamnus Creticus in flowre there. 7ly. The Convents; as particularly the French Minims upon the Monte Trinita. In the upper Gallerie of their Cloyster there is a Dyall, where the Sun beams, entering by a small round hole, Point the Hours. It was made by Marsennus that famous Mathematician, a Father of their Countrie and Order. They have likeways, in a particular part of their Garden some rare Plants, as Ma|lus punica flore amplissimo pleno & Varie|gato.
134 The Minerva; which was anciently the Temple of Minerva, and now is the Chief Convent of the Domini[...]ans in Rome. In my time there was a French Father there called Padre Barilieri Secretarie to the General for his Nation; He was a great Virtuoso, and exceedingly well versed in the whole Historie of Nature; He had a very Curious Collection of ma|ny Naturall Things, and was about to have Published a Large Book in Folio, wherein he had designed a Natural Histo|ry, with a great many cutts, which he showed me. If the Book be Published, I should be very glad to see it; if he be alive, it will be worth your while to pro|cure his acquaintance. He hath also a Garden well stored with Plants at St. Xisto.
The Roman Colledge; where there is a famous shop and Laboratorie for Phar|macie, as also a Garden.
8ly. The Capitol; the middle of the Place before it, is the Statue of the Em|perour Marcus Aurelius, a Horse-back in Brass; It was brought thither from the 135 Place before St. John de Lateran, and is thought one of the best Modells in the World. At the Top of the Staires, as you enter into the place are two Horses, one on every side held by a Slave in Marble. They were brought thither from the Ruines of Pompey's Theatre. There is also in the same Place two Trophies of Marius; there is also Columna milliaris, with a Brass-ball on the Top of it; there used to be such a one at every miles end, upon the common Roads; & from thence came their Fashion of counting the miles per Lapides, as primo ab urbe Lapide was a mile from the Town &c. The Ca|pitol, as it now is, consists of three Pala|ces all of Excellent Architecture, and beautified, both within and without with Painting, Statues, and other Mo|numents of antiquitie; the particular Relation whereof I referr to the Books that are written thereof, and particu|larly to one called Roma antica & Mo|derna, & to the particular demonstration of the Antiquario, for I find it will be utterly impossible to discourse of every 136 particular, unless I should resolve to compile a Volumn.
The rest of the Monuments, and rests or rather ruins of Antiquitie, I shall pass over, and only name a few of them; as for example, first, the Walls of the City, which were built by Bellisarius Captain of the Guards to Justinian the Emperour. The breaches have been repaired by seve|rall Popes. The Ports for the most part are the same they were anciently, only the Porta del populo was made a great deal more stately, at the first Entrie of Chri|s[...]ina Queen of Sweden into Rome. There is a long courten of the Wall be|twixt Porta del populo and Villa Borghese, under which it seems the Ground has misgiven, so that the Wall bendeth, & is therefore called Muro torto. Near to this place also, is the Burial Place delle Cortegiane, there being no Christian Burial or Holy Ground allowed to such persones. There is good Herbarizing about the walls, especially on the out-side, and particularly you will find a Plant there which is not common else where, at 137 least that I have observed, viz. Sature[...]a Spicata sive Thymbra S. Juliani[...] [...] Sa|tureia vera Lobelii. Upon the Wall of the City, close by the Port of St. Paul[...] in via ostiensi; there is yet extant a Py|ramid built of Marble, which was the Burial Place of C. Ces[...]ius Septemvir E|pulonum. Secondly. The old Temples; whereof there are so many that it would be tedious to describe them all, I shall only name some, viz. The Pantheon now cal|led Madonna della rotunda; It was built by Marcus Agrippa, Son-in law to Au|gustus Caesar, in Honour of all the Gods. It had the Fortune to escape almost totaly, the ruine, and fury, which the Goths & Vandals brought upon the Roman Em|pire and magnificence thereof. I admire the Roofe of it, being so large and so flat without any Pillar, to support it, and al|tho' it be a Vault, it hath no nevil|stone to bind it in the middle, but in place thereof a round hole so wide that it lights the whole Roome abundantly, nor is there any other Window in the Fa|brick. The next thing I admire in it is 138 [...]he Doore-Cheeks and couple which is all of one Peece of white Marble. The Door opens in two leaves, very wide & very high, they were covered with Corin|thian Brass, as was also the whole Roofe, until the time of Vrban VIII. who took it off, and covered it with Lead as it now is, and made thereof the great Altar of St. Peters, and some pee|ces of Ordinance, that are keept in the Castel St. Angelo, as will testifie a par|ticular inscription at the side of the pan|theon Doore, made by the Popes com|mand. Upon this occasion was that Pasquinad; Quod non fecerunt Barbari, fecere Barberini. It has a most stately Portico before the Gate, of a great many large tall Pillars of Egyptian black and white speckled Marble; the descent into the Portico from the Street is of ten or twelve steps, but it is said, before the ru|ine of the City, that there was as great an ascent to it; whence it may be gathered, what an universal & great devastation of buildings must there have been to fill up so great a deepth. And indeed it is obser|ved, 139 that when they have any occasion to dig, it is long before they come, in most places, to the terra Virgine, that is, which hath not formerly been broke u|pon: and when they are digging into old ruins, for Anticails (as they are conti|nually doing in severall places) they leave off when they come to the Terra Virgine. Before the Portico there is a large coffine, with it's cover and suppor|ters of Porphyre which they commonly call Agrippa's Tombe.
Near to the entrie of the Camp of Va|cino, at the bottom of the back stairs that lead to the Capitol, there is a Chapel under ground, which was formerly the Prison of St. Peter and St. Paul, when they suffered for the Holy name of JESVS. It was then called Tullianum, according to that of Cicero; est locus in carcere quod Tullianum appellatur. The Temple of Sa|turn is hard by, which in ancient times was the Aerarium publicum, in which the Publick Treasury was keept.
Thirdly, the Amphitheatres; most part of which are Ruined, especially that 140 which was built by Titus, now [...]alled the Coliseo; by the part thereof that is stand|ing you may abundantly Judge of the Magnificence of the whole, when it was extant. There is good Herborizing within it, and there is one Dominicus Pa[...]arolus that hath Writen Catalogus Plantarum Amphitheatralium; with the rest of his works in [...]0. Romae, apud [...]ranciscum Monetam 1652. to which I refer You.
Fourthly, the Aqueducts; of which the most part are ancient: when they come near to the City, they are convey'd under ground to several Fountains in the City, and some of them so deep, that it is Prodigious by what art they could have Peirc't so deep, as for example, the Aqua Virgine, which is the sweetest and best for use in all
141 5ly The Thermae, or Baths; as the Thermae Diocletianae built by the Empe|rour Diocletian. It is said that ten thou|sand Christians were imployed about this work, and all cruely Massacred when they had finished it. It is now a Mona|stery of Carthusians, in whose common Garden I remember to have seen the Myrtus Buxifoliis. The ruins of Thermae Antonini Caracallae; they are situated ad Radicem Collis Aventinae. I have seen amongst these Ruins that kynd of Ca|pillary, which is called Hemionitis, and no where else that I Remember of.
Sixthly the two Columns of Antoninus, and Tra[...]an Emperours; The Statue of St. Peter stands upon the Top of one, and that of St. Paul upon the other: Trajan was so well beloved of the Peo|ple that to make a place, which in ho|nour of him they called forum Trajani, in the midle of which this Column stands, they levelled a great Hill, of the precise hight of the Column it self. Both the Columns are of white Marble, and all the out side Historified in base relieue, 142 in a spirall line beginning at the bottom and ending at the top. That of Trajan hath the whole storie of the Dacian War. There is a great Book in Folio of this Co|lumn, wherein all the figures are cutt in Brass, and the Large description thereof added. I have forgot the Authors name, but I believe You will find the Book Al insegna di Parigi alla pace from Jacomo Rossi. where you will likewise find all other sorts of Prints and T[...]lledouces. The Columne of Antoni[...]us· is 160 foot High and that of Trajan 128. Altho' they apear to be but smal yet each of them hath a Stair-Case within, that leads to the Top. There are some others but less Considerable, as that which stands before St. Maria Majore, which was one of the Pillars of the Templum Pacis, brought hither by Paulus V. who placed a Bra|sen Statue of the Blessed Virgine upon the Top thereof. There is likewise not far from the same place a little Column with a Crucifix on the Top of it, erected in memorie of the absolution given to Henry the IV. King of France; In the 143 Capitoll likewise there are two viz. the Columna milliaris, of which already, and the Columna Rostrata, which you will see when you view the fine things within that part of the Capitoll whi[...]h stands next to the River, where the Hill is most steep and was anciently called Tarpeia Rupes.
Seventhly, the Triumphall Arches; as particularly that of Septimius Severus; That of Titus; and that of Constantine &c.
Eighthly, the Bridges upon the River. Ninthly, the Obelisks; most part where|of are graven with Aegyptian Hierogly|phicks. The best of them is erected in the middle of the place before St. Peters, upon the back of four Brazen Lyons, and a large Pedestal of Marble. The next best is at the Porta dell Populo.
Tenthly, the Septem Colles or Montes; upon which
Eleventhly, some other Hills: as the Ja|nicular, which is a Chain of Hills with|out the Walls in the Trans[...]evere. And the Mons Testaceus, which is nothing but a heap of broken earthen Pots and bricks; for in ancient times these were so much in use; and the Figuli or Tradesmen that made them, so numerous, that there was a necessity of appointing them a particular place, and that by publick edict, for throwing the Ru[...]bish of their Furnaces and the pot sheards that broke in the Baking into, least otherwise if it had been permitted to throw them into the River, it might have occasioned an [...]n|undation of the City. In process of time it grew to the bignes of the third part of a Mile in Compass, and a Hundred & Sixtie foot in hight. This Hill is within the Walls not far from the side of the River, as also Mons Vaticanus in Trans|[...]evere, so called a Vaticiniis which used to be made there: The Palace of the Va|tican stands upon it.
145 Twelthly, Roma subterranea; com|monly called the Catacombs, whereof Bosio hath writen a large Volumn in Folio. There are two of them, both without the Walls. One of them is at St. Sebastion's Church. They are Caverns digg'd under ground in the forme of a Town, that is, larger and lesser streets crossing one another, in some place lower so that You must be forced to stoop, but in others higher than a Mans hight, and all along as you go upon the one Hand and the other, as thick as they can stand one by another, are holes or nests where|in were placed the bodies of the Dead, one by one, upright upon their feet, and so the nests Plastered over. The Bodies and reliques of many Saints and Martyrs have been found here, and were known to be such by the Cross found upon their Sepulchers, with this Inscription Pro CHRISTO. You must take good lights and a good guide to conduct You, for some have mistaken their Way and never found an outgate. The Second, I need not describe it.
146 There are severall things about
3ly If You desire not to Returne to
Being returned to
Having seen
From
Pass the River Garrigliano.
Sessa,
07.
Carionole,
04.
Capua,
12.
Auersa,
07.
Velitre; is an Ancient City of the Volsci, much famed also for the Parents of Octavius Augustus, who were Originaly of this Place. Upon the Way from Veletri to Sezza, upon the Hill-side un|der Sarninetta, there are some Ancient Ruins supposed to be the Tres Taberna[...], of which St. Luke speaks in the 28. Chapter of the Acts of the Apostles.
Sezza, formerly Setia; was much com|mended for its Wine, whence that of Juvenal.
---Tunc illa time cum pocula sume· Gemmata & lato Setinum ardebit in auro. Piperno; in Latin Privernum; and the Inhabitants Privernati; near to this 154 Place, Iris Florentina, grows abundantly.
Terracina; was Anciently called Aux|ur, in the Language of the Volsci, of whom this was the Metropolis. Strabo sayeth that it was called Trachina, quasi Aspera from the Rockiness of the Hill u|pon which it is Placed; altho' the Town be Ancient, it is not very considerable, it is the last Place of the Ecclesiastick E|state towards
Mola, is one of the most pleasant places in rhe World; being close upon the Sea side, and but a little way from Gaieta, to which you may go either by Sea or Land. It is likeways hard by the ruins of the Ancient City Formiae, where Cicero had his Villa Formiana. The place abounds with many plants, and great Varietie of the choisest Fruits; especially the Agrumi, such as Citrons, Oranges, Limons &c, of all sorts.
If ye please to go to Gaieta, it is worth the while: It stands at the extremity of of a Promontory or Tongue of Land that runs out into the Sea, from the main-Land about three miles, and by that means becomes peninsule, and for|meth on the side towards Rome, betwixt it and Terracina, that Sinus Gaitanus, a|bout twelve miles in length. The Town is pleasantly Situated and strongly. There is a great Rock hard by, which is rent from Top to Bottom, which they say, happened when the Saviour of the 157 World Suffered upon the Cross. There is excellent Herbarizing all the way be|twixt it and Mola.
Trajetto is a Castle near the place where the Ancient City of Minturnae stood, where there is yet to be seen an Amphitheatre almost intire, and the re|mains of a great Aqueduct: It was a|mongst the Marishes near to Mintur|nae, that C. Marius did hide himself, when he fled from his Enemies; whence that of Juvenal,
Exilium & carcer Minturnarum{que} Paludes, Et Mendicatus victa Carthagine Panis. You must pass at this place the Ri|ver Garigliano, called Li[...]is Anciently.
Aversa is a new City, extructed out of the Ruins of Atella, It is distant 8 Miles from Naples, and famed for a kind of Wine called Asprin[...].
That way which leades from
Appia cunctarum fertur Regina viarum.
Altho' this way be Ruined in many places, yet it is wonderfull to see, in how great perfection a great deal of it con|tinues. Without doubt it has been a matter of vast Expense to make a way of that Length, and Breadth so well paved, with Quadrangular Stones, that even to this Day (altho' it be of common & frequent Passage) continueth as intire as if it were newly done. Upon both sides of this way, as far as Capua, there are a great many Ancient Sepulchres; many whereof are altogether ruined, and some almost intire, as yet; in one of these Sepulchres, in the Reign of Alex|ander VI. (as Volateranus tells) the Body of a Delicat young VVoman, was found altogether intire in a Marble Chist. She was of incomparable beautie hav|ing her long Flaxen Hair drawn toge|ther upon her Head with a Circle of Gold. The Body did almost swim in a mervellous kind of Liquor and had a 160 burning Lamp at the Feet thereof, which the Air, coming in at the opening of the Sepulchre, did instantly extin|guish. The Body (as did appear by the Letters graven upon the place) had lyen there thirteen Hundred Years. Some have been of Opinion that it was the Body of Tulliola, the dearly Beloved Daughter of Cicero. It was presented in its integrity to the Conservators of Rome, and for some Days keept in the Capitol as a singular curiosity; but Pope Alex|der coming to understand it, caused it to be thrown into the Tyber.
I must not omit to tell you, that there is some incommoditie in this Journey both as to Dyeting and Lodging; and sometimes there is perill from the Ban|diti; But he that will gather Roses, must not be affraid to prick his Fingers: Be|sides, that danger is but sometimes, and you may probably find the way clear, especially, if the Vice-Roy be a stirring Active Man, as it often happens: For then the Banditi will hardly dare to 161 come so far down from the Hills· as the Via appia, or High-way to Naples.
Sirenum dedit una tuum memorab[...] nomen. Parthenope muris Acheloias, aequore cujus Regnavere d[...]l cantus, cum dulce per undas, Exitium miseris caneret non Prospera nautis. It was built Closs upon the Sea, at the foot of most pleasant Hills; First built by the Cumani or Inhabitants of Cuma; who being taken with the sweetness of the Air & Pleasantness of the Place; did daily increase in number; insomuch that the Cumani that lived at Cuma, took a Resolution utterly to Ruin Parthen[...]pe 162 [...]east their own City should become deso|[...]at. But it being Ruined, there came so great a Pestilence upon Cuma, as car|ried away Multitudes, and having con|sulted the Oracle about the cause of this Mortality; it was answered that this fate had come upon them for the Ruine of Par|thenope; and that if they ever hop'd to be free from this disease, they should first re|store it, whence with all diligence they went about the Restauration thereof, and called it Neapolis, that is to say the new City. The sweetness of the Air, & delicacy of the Country about is so great, that many Emperours and Roman Senators being wearied with the Wars, and weightiness of Government, did repair to this place, that they might live plea|santly & Peaceably, & give themselves to the Study of Letters; amongst which were Virgil, T. Livius, Horatius, Claudianus [...] & a great many more: At this very pre|sent it is no less frequented by the Nobi|lity and Gentrie of the whole Kingdom, who for the most part have their own Palaces and pass the greatest part of the 163 Year here; so that for Nobility and Gentry there are few Cities in the World more considerable than this. I think it is for this Reason, that it is commonly called Napoli la Gentile: Nor is it to be passed by, that it gives name to a Kingdom; which is not very Ordinary.
The City is big and sumptuously built from the Sea to these pleasant Hills a|bout it. It is very well fortified with strong Walls & Castles, especially since the dayes of
You may take notice of these particu|lars within the Town. 1ly. The Church|es; of which this City hath a greater num|ber, than any other of its bigness in Europe. Amongst the rest, that of the Annunciata, is so Rich; that the Rent of the Hospitall thereof is capable to entertain, 5000 Poor, part whereof are Children found. St. Chiana, together with the Monastrie of Nuns consisting of 400 with as many servants, is very glori|ous; It was Built by Agnes of Spain Queen to King Robert. There are many curious Sepulchres to be seen here of Kings, Queens, and their Children. In the Church of St. Dominico is to be seen 165 the Image of the Crucifix, that said to
2. The Religious Houses or Convents; of which there are so great a number, that the Dominicans alone have seventeen. The Chartrous convent stands upon the 166 Hill, a little beneath the Castle St. Elm[...]' It hath the pleasantest Situation that I ever beheld; one may discover from it the whole City and Suburbs of Naples, a great part of the Campania Felice, the monte
3ly. The Hospitals; which are about twelve in number; amongst which, that of the Annunciata and of the Incueabili are the most considerable. It is said that they Marry 665. Maids every Year, and the least portion they give with any is 24 Ducats, and the greatest 300.
4ly. The Castles; of which there are 4. The Castle d'Ovo stands within the Sea upon a Rock, built of an Oval Figure by Willam III. a Norman. The Castle Nov[...] was built by Charles the first, Brother to St. Lewes, but it was
The Castle Capuano (so called from it's situation which is near to the Port of Capuano) is rather a Palace than a Fortress where the Magistrats of the City, 168 and Officers of justice keep their Assem|blies.
5. The Palaces; whereof there are a very great number, amongst which that of the Viceroy; That of the Prince of Salern· which the Jesuits now possess, are very considerable. The Palace of the Duke of Gravina is most superb. That of the Cara|fi is adorned with abundance of excel|lent statues of Marble and Brass. There be many other worthie to be seen: as also the beautifull Garden of Don Garcia di Toledo, which is full of Grotto's, Foun|tains, Water works, statues &c.
6. The Harbour, or Sea Port; which is fortified with a Superb mole, first made by Charles II. And then very much mended by Alfonsus the first, for the great|er security of the Harbour.
7. The Publick Places, the streets, & the avenues of the Town.
8. The Suburbs; which are seven in number; amongst which the most consi|derable, is that which leads A la grotio di Posilipo; near to the entry of which Grotto stands la mergelina, looking in|to 169 the Bay; it was sometimes the House of pleasure of
It will be worth the while also to take a view of the Book-sellers Shops, there being many good Books Printed here which hardly or not all can be found with us; as for example, the works of Baptista Porta, whereof the Impressions at
You will likewise meet with a great many curiosities of all sorts, espccially from the Levant: some naturall; as stones, shells, Animalls, or parts of them, fruits &c. Others artificiall; some of Leather, as Purses, Letter-cases, cups, and a great many things of that kind, usualy brought from Allepo and Con|stantinople: Some of Silk either alone, or mingled with gold and silver; as Sashes, Girdles, Cravats, Night-Caps, wast|coats, stockings, &c. Outlandish Armes, as Cimetres, Poyniards, Bows and Ar|rows, with severall sorts of fire Armes. Medalls antient and modern: Intalio's Chameo's &c. But in these You must take some heed, that You mistake not the modern for antique.
171 Having well viewed and considered the City and all things in it. It will be necessary to see those things that are con|siderable about it. And first the Hill Po|silipus, famous for it's Gardens and Houses of Pleasure, for it's Fruits and Wines, especially the greco di Posilipo. But that which is most Admirable in this Hill is the Passage cut quite thro' it. By Cocceius of whom Pontanus saith, Nescio an is fu|erit M. Cocceius Nerua Augusti Avus, qui Romae aquarum curam habuit tulit{que} m[...]x|imam Architecturae Laudem. Howeve[...] it is certain he must have been a man of great Riches that durst undertake so great a work, at his oun expence. It is called la Grotta di Posilipo, and is very near a mile in length, cutt thro' the Rock. As for the breadth of it, one Coach may pass another with ease. And for the Hight, I believe a man on Horseback will hardly touch the Roof of it with a Lance; At the two ends it is some what higher than in the middle, I think of purpose that the light might enter the farther. When You enter at the one end You 172 will very hardly perceive the light in the other end, but as You advance it begins to appear by little and little. In the Just middle of it, on that side which is next the Sea, there is a little Chapell, where a Lamp is keept continually burning, but it is more out of Devotion than for any light it gives: betwixt the Chapell and the end, as it were about the middle on every side of the Chapell there is a hole cutt thro' the Hill which serveth for a win|dow, but it gives little light. It is exceed|ing dusty, especeially if there be many Horses Ryding together altho' it be paven with stone, because there comes no Rain to wash it, and none takes pains to make it clean. Those that goe from
Mantua me genuit, Calabri rapuere, te|net nunc
Parthonope; cecini pascua, rura, duces.
Not far from this Tomb, is the Sepul|chre of that famous Poet
Da Sacro cineri flores, hic ille Maroni Sineerus, musa proximus, ut tumulo. 174 There are many other excellent Statues, Base Relieves, and Pictures within this Church well worthie the seeing.
When you go to
At a little distance from thence, up|on the side of the Lake is the Grotto de I Cani. It is a little hole dug out of the side of a Brae where two or three Persons scarcely can stand. The Floore of it is ordinarily wet and dirtie, out of which there riseth a Poisonous Vapour, 175 in form of Smoak, but it ascendeth not above a Foot from the Ground. They use to trie it with Torches and Dogs, which you must carrie from
177 From hence you take the Way to
Having done these things, you come to
Here are also be seen many Ruins of great antiquitie, amongst which she Gardens of Cicero famous for his Academy, where he wrote his Quaestiones Academi|cae. But this City, in diverse ages has suffered so much by the tumults of Wars, as also by the eruptions of fire and earth|quakes, that it is wonderfull there should yet remain any vestiges of Antiquitie. The Soil about it is most fertile and fruitfull, and nature produceth here many Plants of it's oun accord, which in other places are kept in Gardens, not without care: among others I remember to have seen the Ricinus or Palma Christi not only growing wild but out-living that Winter, and continuing fresh green and strong in the month of March; al|tho' 181 it be an Annual Plant with us, that can hardly be raised upon a hot bed.
You may have your Horse at
Ostrea tu sumis stagno saturata Lucrino.
But there is little water in it now, it being almost dryed up by that most Ter|rible eruption of the Solfatara which happned in the Year 1538. the 29. of September two hours after Sun set, the whole countrey about having been troubled for two Years before with Earthquakes: At which time there burst out in one night so great a quantitie of fire, Stones, Pumecks, and ashes, that near to the monte Barbaro formerly called mons Gaurus it made another Hill, near three miles in compass, and almost as high as the monte Barbaro. The south part of it looks to the Sea, the north reaches to the Lacus Avernus, & on the East it is 183 joined with the foot of Monte Barbaro. It is called monte Nuovo. These ashes did not only make this Hill, but covered like|wise a great part of the Country about, Killing both beasts and Trees, and ruin|ing the Vintage for that Year. The Sea in the mean time retired above 200 paces, leaving abundance of Fish upon the dry sands, and many Wells of fresh Water, which sprung here and there.
2. The Lacus Avernus is about half a miles distance from the Lago lucrino. It is compassd about with small Hills which they say were formerly covered with Trees, that did over shaddow the wa|ter, and make it look black, and like|wise did hinder the Sulphureous Vap|ours that did arise from the water to dissipat, so that the Air being infected with these vapours became so noysome especially to Fowls, that they could not live in it, and hence came the Name Avernus. At present there is little or no Wood about it, nor is the Air any thing more noysome there, than in other places about, and I have seen Fowles 184 haunting about it and swimming in it. It is said to be very deep & for that reason without Fish but I am not certain hereof.
3. Upon the west side of the Lake, cutt into the Hill is the Antrum Sybillae commonly called Grotta della Sybilla, but not truly, for the true Cave of Sybill[...] is at C[...]a. This seems rather to have been a common passage from Avernus to P[...]ia, but is now stopt at the one end by the falling down of the Hill a|bove. The passage is large and High, but altogether dark, and therefore You must be guided by Torch light. When You are got a good way in, upon the one side there is a little narrow passage of about three or fourscore foot in length, that leads into a handsome large Cham|ber, which altho' it be now much ruin|ed, appears to have been Richly adorned, the Roof of it being Painted with Gold and Blew, and the Walls with curious figures of divers colours and the Pave|ment consisting of many small peeces like unto Mosaick. It is a vulgar errour that this was Sybilla's Chamber, and 185 that the Temple of Apollo, where she re|ceived her Responses, was hard by upon the Right Hand as you enter to the Lake; But it is not so, for the Ruins of that Place appeare not to have been any Tem|ple at all, But rather a Superb Bathing House, such as that of Baia, for it has the same order of Windows, & Spiracles for conducting of the Vapours. But to returne to the Grotto, upon the left hand, as You enter into this Chamber, there is another Passage, some what higher and larger than the first, about 40. foot in length cut out into the Hill, which leads into another Chamber, from which there is a narrow passage, which leads into another Chamber, and severall other little passages and Roomes which I doe not distinctly remember, only this much that in one of them, there is as it were a little Pool of Warm Water. In this Room the heat is so great, that it is im|possible to continue any time in it with|out excessive Sweating, which makes me to believe, that these Rooms were inten|ded for no other use than Bathing and Sweating.
186 4. The Remains or Ruins; and first Bagno di Cicerone. 2ly. Bagno di Tritoli; quasi Frittoli, q[...]od Corpora ibi fricrentur, The Entrie to it is large and high. Tow|ards the ground it is cold, but if you stand upright You must needs Sweat for Heat, and the farther one goes in, the greater the Heat is. At the bottom of the Rock within Sea-mark, and even where the Sea covers it, the Sand is so Hot that one cannot lift a handfull of it.
5. Baia; So called from Baius, the Companion of Vlysses, who was Buried there. It was a most delicat City, but now altogither Ruined, and in the place of it there is a Castle lately Built with a a Garison of 30. Souldiers for Securing the Port, which is verie safe for Gallies, but not deep enough for Ships. The whole Bay, or Sinus of Baia, is exceed|ingly Pleasant; all that Tract betwixt Avernus and the Mons Misenus being full of the Remains of great and Noble structures. Many of the Roman Emper|ours took great pleasure in this place, & and spared no cost for the beautifying of 167 it. Horace, who was no ill Judge, gives this Testimony of it, Nullus in Orbe locus Baiis praelucet amoenis. As You go forward from Baia, You will still be finding something worthie the Remarking; as, 1. The House of Agrippi|na, Nero's Mother, who was put to Death here by her Sons Command. It is com|monly said to be her Sepulchre, but it is not true. There is yet to be seen the Plaister of the Roof and walls in severall Curious figures, but they are much de|faced by the smoak of the Torches which strangers from all parts so frequently carry down with them. 2. That delicat Pleasant Field called the Eligium, so much renowned by Virgil in the 6th. Book of the Aeneids. All the Noble Per|sons that lived here abouts, or did other|wise attend upon the Court, which did often happen to be here, likewise those that for their Health's sake came to the Bath's, used to walk in this place for their 188 Recreation and Converse. I am easily inclined to believe that considering it's Situation, Prospect, and the Order that it was keept in, when so many great Persons frequented it, It could not chuse but have been the most delicious Place in the whole World, and no wonder that it Prompted Virgil to Borrow both it's name and his Conceit in expressing and describing the Place of the Blessed Soules Departed. I saw it in the begin|ing of the Moneth of March, and then the Heat was considerable, and the Place not only green but covered with Anemonies and other Flowers. Hard by this, is the Piscina Miraebilis: it is a Ci|stern for keeping of fresh Water, of a vast Bigness, the Roof whereof is support|ed by 48. great Pillars on everie side. The whole inside of it is Crusted over with a kind of Plaster as hard as Mar|ble, which whither it was so made by Art, or by the Continuance of the Water in it, I know not, but I think it probable that both have contributed to it. Boccace in his Book of Rivers, believs 189 it to have been built by Agrippa, for preserving of fresh Water, for the Com|modity of the Navie which used to stay at Misenum. The Water was brought to it by aquedu[...]ts from Serino. 3. Mons Misenus or the Promontorium Misenum, so called from Misenus, Aeneas's Trum|peter, who was Buried here. It is of a Reasonable Hight, and without doubt the prospect from it is Noble; but I did not ascend it, by reason of the Com|pany that would not stay for me.
4. The Centum Cellae; which are a con|tinued Fabrick built of Brick with great Art under ground, it seems they have been Cisterns for Conserving of Water. In short, all this peece of ground is full of ancient Ruins, and it is not easie to Guesse, what every one of them in Par|ticular hath been.
Having vieued all these things, you ei|ther go straight to Cuma, or else you leave it for another Day, and so re|turne to Pozzulo, by the same Boat that waited upon you from it, and so returne by Horse, by the lower but plainer and 190 more pleasant Way, to Naples, from from whence the next Day you may go to Cuma, in Latine Cumae; a City built upon the Top of a Hill six Miles from
At pius Aeneas arces quibus altus Apollo
Praesidet, horrendae{que} procul secreta Sybillae.
As you descend from Cuma upon that side that looks to the East, is to be seen the Frontis-peece of the true Grotta of Sybilla, which was cut out of the solid Rock, which Virgil describeth,
Excisum Euboicae latus ingens rupis in antrum.
There are many other Ancient Ru|ins worthie the taking notice of, which you may have leasure enough to observe, and have time enough to returne to
191 The next Day you may take Horse again and a Guide with you from the Town, to see the burning Hill, about 8 Miles distant from the Town; It is cal|led in Latine Vesuvius, and in Italian Monte di soma, from the great Plentie of all things wherewith it aboundeth. the Hill it self is of a very Large Com|pass, and about the middle divided in two Tops, of which one is much abated of its length by the burning. Before the first eruption of the Fire, it was much higher than the other, but now it is by much the lower. It is not easily accessible both in regard of its steepness, and the great Quantitie of Ashes that co|ver it every where, by Reason whereof, the ascent becomes slippery and uncer|tain. In the ascending, you may take nottice of many several Channels, some larger and deeper, some narrower and shallower made by the Tor|rents of burning Sulphur and other Mineral Substances, which Boyled out at the Top in the last great eruption it made, which torrents were carried se|veral 192 Miles into the Gulf or bay of
In the suburbs of the Town, as you re|turn, you may see the Kings Stables, where the choisest Horses of the Kingdom are menaged and keept for the Kings use.
Thus having vieued all in & about Na|ples, it will be time to order your re|turn 194 for Rome, by the same way you came, nor do I remember any other thing needfull to be observed or advised, except that you must l[...]t[...] your Baggage [...]e vieued at the Gate· as you go out, and take a Pass from the Customers; or which you will pay some small thing. You will likeways do well to rid your self of all Spanish Monie (gold excepted) unless it be somuch as will serve to bear your expen|ses to Fu[...]die, because it will not pass in any place of Italy, except such as are un|der the Spanish Dominion.
If the Season of the Year be good, there is excellent Her[...]rising upon this [...]oade to
Being returned to
The Way to
From Valcimara, the way is exceeding good to
After two days stay here we dismissed our Horses that we brought from Rome, and Hyred new ones from
From
Fano, Antiently Fanum; because of the Temple of Fortune that stood here; There 203 is a stately Triumphall Arch of Marble 30, Cubits High. Pesaro is a very Plea|sant and handsome City having many fine Houses and a Magnificent Palace, It is well Peopled and well Fortified. The Duke of Vrbin, to whom this City did belong, used to pass one half of the Year here; But since his Death without Heirs Male the whole Dutchie is Reunited to the Ecclesiastick state.
Rimini, in Latine Ariminum; is like to be so called from the River Arimine that passes by it. There are severall fair Pala|ces in it, built by the Mala-testi antient Lords of the Place. There is a Triumph|al Arch erected in Honour of Augustus, yet extant, and the Ruines of a great Theatre. But the most considerable thing of all is the Bridge, Built of great square Marble stones, of twentie foot in length and 15. in breadth, with five Arches. The Bridge Joynes the Via Flaminia and the Via Emilia together. It is said to have been Built by Tiberius Caesar. In the Mercat place there is to be seen the stone upon which Julius Caesar stood, and en|couraged 204 his Officers, when he began the Civil War. This Stone hath this Inscrip|tion C. Caesar D. Rubicone superato, civili Bello, Comilitones suos hic in for[...] Arimi|nensi adlocutus.
Within a Mile of Cesina, or there a|bouts, You must pass the Rubicon, which seems to be but a Torrent, and in the Summer time for the most part dry; At the place where You pass there is yet ex|tant an ancient Pillar, the Inscription whereof hath made the name of Rubicon so famous. it is as follows; Jussu manda|tuve P. R. Cos. Imp. Myli Tyro Co|milito manipulariaeve Cent. Turmaeve Le|gionariae armat quis quis est hic sistito. Vexillum sinito, ne citra hunc amnem Ru|biconem signa, Arma, ductum, commea|tum, Exercitum{que} traducito; siquis hu|jusce Jussionis ergo adversum ierit, fece|ritve, adjudicatus esto hostis P: R. ac si contra Patriam armaverit, Sacros{que} Pe|natos e penetralibus asportaverit Sanctio plebisci Senatus.
205 NE Consulto ultra hos fines Armae pro|ferre liceat nemini.
S. P. Q. R. And upon the other side of the Pil|lar, the following Inscription; Rubiconem ponta subjectum transis viator, Romano interdicto Caesaris ausu, & adagio, Jactae alcae, Celebratum.
Flumini huic stabilem imponere trajec|tum, Ethnica diu vetuit pavida Supersti|tio, Catholica nunc suasit socura Religio.
Innocent: Xo Summo Pont: Card: D: Legato 1654. Furli; in Latine Forum Livii, where there is litle thing considerable except the Market Place.
Faenza; is divided in two by the Ri|ver Lamone, over which stands a goodly Bridge that Joynes the two parts of the Town together, it is called in Latine Fa|ventia, and the People Faventini.
206 The whole way from Ancona to Bo|lognia is Plain and Smooth, and the Countrey on all sides very Rich and Fertile, but especially near to Bolognia, (which deservedly is called la Crassa) where the whole Countrey, on everie s[...]de of the high way, looks like Gardens, be|ing Hedged and closed in on all sides, and Planted with Olive and while Mul|berry Trees, the Leaves whereof [...]erve to the [...]eeding of Silk Wormes, and at the Roots of which the Vines being Plant|ed, run up and spread themselves thorow all the Branches of the Trees, and load them with Grapes. The distance betwixt the Ranges of Trees is Sowen sometimes with Wheat, or other usefull Grain, or Kitchin Herbs and Roots, Nor is there wanting here abundance of the Choisest Fruits that
Bolognia; is the second Town of the Ecclesiastick State, sweetly situated in a large Plain, near to some Hills at the one side. The City is near two Miles in length and one in breadth, and about 5 Miles in Compass. The Inhabitants are 207 not esteemed to be under 80 Thousand in number, amongst which it is thought there are two Thousand Gentlemen, whereof many have the Titles of Count and Marques. There is a famous U|niversity & many fine Colledges worthie to be seen: As also many fine Churches & Religious Houses. The Archdean of the Cathedral of St. Peters, has the Privi|ledge of making Doctors, above others. In the Church of Corpus Christi, may be seen the intire Body of St. Katharine of Vigri, a Religious Woman of the Order of St. Clare, that Died at Bolognia, in the Year 1463. She sits in a Chair, with a Religious Habit. The Skin of her Face seems to be bent and streacht, her Eyes open, her Hands and Feet bare: In one Hand She holds a Crucifix, the other is placed upon a Pillow. They use in the presence of a great deal of Com|panie to paire her Nails every Month, and to cut her Hair once a Year, after they are grown. In the Iacobins Church is keept the Head of St. Dominick in a Rich Tabernacle, and his Body in a Cu|rious 208 Tomb of white Marble cut in se|verall figures of Base relieve; In the Choire may be seen the Histories of the New and Old Testament, with wonder|full Artifice represented in mosaick of of Wood. There is also to be seen here, a rare Peece of Painting, of the Innocents made by Guido Reni; all the parts of this Convent are worthie the taking no|tice of, the Cloisters, the Dormitories of above 150 Religious, the Refictory Painted by great Masters, the Apothe|caries Shop, and the Bibliotheck, and the Cellar which is extraordinarly Big.
There be many fine Palaces worthie the seeing, and very well Ornamented within, but especially the Popes own Pa|lace, where the Legat resides, and in it you must take particular care to see Al|drovandi's Studie, and Collection of Cu|riosities, which are keept in this Palace, and commonly intrusted to the Legats Physitian. There is likeways to be seen in the Back Court Aldrovandi's Garden, in which there are some Curious Plants. In the Study you will see a great Her|ball, 209 in water Colours, but without any description, as also a whole press full of Manuscripts, written all with his own Hand.
There are severall Towres in the Town, but especially that of Degli Pisanel|li, which is one of the highest I remember to have ever seen; it stands about the middle of the Town, and near by it there is an other which is not finished, and the reason they give for it is very apparent, that the Builders mistook the perpendicular; when one stands near to it, it is so very crooked that it appears to be just a falling. I had the Curiositie to go as high in the other Towre as I could, and rather because I thought I might more easily discover the situati|on of the Town, it's avenues, and the Country about, but I had much Reason to repent me: The ladders for the most part being old and rotten, so that I was in continuall apprehension of falling, and one slip would have done my turne as well as a hundred. I shall advise you rather to take the paines to see a Con|vent, 210 a little without the Town, toward the Hills, called St. Michaele in Bosco, from whence you will have a most De|licate Prospect of the Town and Coun|try about. The Town appears in the form of a Ship, and the Towre Deglipisanelli, may be the maine Mast of it. This Con|vent is one of the most Glorious in Italy; the Religious are of the Order di Monte Olivetto, there are many other things in the Town worthie the taking notice of, which for brevities sake I omit.
You must not forget to see the Silk-Work, which is a most Curious con|trivance; it is three or four Storie high, in the Highest Storie there are Innume|rable Pirns of Silk, which are all moved by the generall Motion that the Wa|ter gives to some Wheeles below, & there they receive the first Twist; in the Storie next to that, they receive the se|cond; & in the lowermost Storie the last: which brings it to that form of raw Silk that we commonly see sold.
This Place above all others in Italy, 211 or in the World, is famous for excel|lent Soap-Balls, of which you will do well to provide your self abundant|ly; they will keep in their perfection above 20 Years: You may have them of severall Sizes, bigger or lesser as you please. It is likeways famous for Sassadges, which are the best cetain|ly in tke World: I have seen of them of 5 Crownes the Peece.
There is good Herbarising towards the Hills, if your leisure can permit you; you may take a Guide along with you. Upon these Hills, you will likeways find that famous Stone called Lapis phosphorus Bononiensis, of which For|tunatus Lic[...]t[...]s hath written a particular Book. It is very hard and Flintie like, but more glistering; when it is calcined 48 hours in a reverberatory Fire & then set to cooll: If you expose it a little to the light and free Air, and on the sud|den bring it to the dark, it shines for a little while as if it were a Red burning Coale, but there is a kind of efflorescence like Rust or greenish Dust that growes u|pon 212 the Top o